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Old Nov 10, 2012, 09:51 AM
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Yea it's 12mph now and it's hard to wait cause I've been waiting to maiden the t45. I'm use to this with my champ although it is challenging.
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Old Nov 10, 2012, 11:07 AM
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Well 2 successful flights but my last flight ended short with a fried ESC which landed it in a tree. So only damage is a fried ESC and 2 broken aileron control surfaces. No biggie I can tape the ailerons back on and get a new ESC. Anyone have any suggestions for a new ESC? But you were right Nigel she floated in with no throttle before I landed even with the 15mph wind. What a great trainer plane. She floated on rails and was easy to spot in the sky.
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Old Nov 10, 2012, 12:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Mike20 View Post
Well 2 successful flights but my last flight ended short with a fried ESC which landed it in a tree. So only damage is a fried ESC and 2 broken aileron control surfaces. No biggie I can tape the ailerons back on and get a new ESC. Anyone have any suggestions for a new ESC? But you were right Nigel she floated in with no throttle before I landed even with the 15mph wind. What a great trainer plane. She floated on rails and was easy to spot in the sky.
Was that the stock ESC on 3S?
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Old Nov 10, 2012, 12:56 PM
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Yea I'm using skylipo 800mah 3s 40c. Was it cause I was at full throttle too long? It was pretty windy and that was the only way it would scoot through the wind. And then I would drop to 1/3 throttle going with the wind. I even gave it a few min to cool down before I took her up again. My only problem now is how do I get the wing off since I used CA to put it on.
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Old Nov 10, 2012, 01:04 PM
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Also would the ESC cause me to loose complete control over the plane? Cause after it got stuck in the tree I had no response from the plane. It definitely smells like something burned up. Name: ImageUploadedByTapatalk1352574232.132767.jpg
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Old Nov 10, 2012, 01:08 PM
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I think they make a "debonder" for removing CA but I've never tried it.

On a side note, changing throttle to compensate for wind is not a good thing to practice. Your jet doesn't know whether its in no wind or 50mph. Throttling back downwind could result in a stall. No idea why your ESC failed but throttling up to go into the wind only gives you the sense it's going faster. It's travelling through the air relative to the throttle, angle of attack, etc. The ground speed will vary depending on which way you happen to be going.
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Old Nov 10, 2012, 01:13 PM
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Also would the ESC cause me to loose complete control over the plane? Cause after it got stuck in the tree I had no response from the plane. It definitely smells like something burned up. Attachment 5294551
There are two parts of the ESC. One part is responsible for driving the motor. The other part is called the BEC (battery eliminator circuit) and is what powers your receiver and servos. Without a BEC, you have to use a small battery pack to power your receiver and servos. If the internal BEC burns up, you lose receiver power and your ability to control the model goes out the window. You may still be able to use the ESC though, the middle wire (red) in the three wire lead going to the receiver can be removed from the connector and a seperate bec used. This is standard practice in many applications where lots of servos are used and the current draw can overtax the internal BEC. Here is an example of a stand alone BEC.

http://www.headsuprc.com/servlet/the...Battery/Detail
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Old Nov 10, 2012, 03:15 PM
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So if I find out the ESC is bad as well what ESC do you guys recommend I put back into my plane? I don't plan on going to 4s but I also want to make sure this doesn't happen again. Some websites claim the batteries I use have a 80c burst but I don't think that would overload the ESC cause it should only draw only as much as it needs right? Also I don't know if this helps or not but the batteries were warm to the touch after flights. I only did 3 min flights cause I wasn't sure how long they were gonna last but I checked them and they were still at 11.1 or 11 volts.
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Old Nov 10, 2012, 04:10 PM
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Mike,
Wouldn't hurt to go to a 40 amp esc. My Katana actually came with one. I've had the stock 30 amp esc fail with my Jpowers series.
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Old Nov 10, 2012, 04:37 PM
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Ok would it hurt to go more then 40amps? And should I get the external BEC as well? I just dont want this to happen again.
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Old Nov 10, 2012, 05:38 PM
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Don't know why you would need more than a 40 amp esc or an extrenal BEC / UBEC for that matter. There's only 3 servos on the T-45. Not like you have flaps, retracts, lights, etc. Has not been a problem for me. The 30 amp esc I fried was in the JPowers mini-Warbird series. You might have just got a bad apple.

-Hawk
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Old Nov 10, 2012, 08:34 PM
check for reversed controls
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United States, CA, Chino
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30 A escs are right on the edge of failure. Hobby Wing 40 A are all you will ever need even on 4s
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Old Nov 10, 2012, 09:11 PM
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Ok thanks for the help I'm just asking cause it's better to ask the dumb questions then not to. I'm still new to the airplane part of the hobby and just recently made the step up to edf jets. I appreciate the helpful advice and I hope to have her in the air real soon. The t45 was a blast to fly!
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Old Nov 10, 2012, 09:14 PM
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Do I need to get the program card for the hobby wing 40amp ESC?
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Old Nov 10, 2012, 09:19 PM
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Latvia, Ventspils pilsēta, Ventspils
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You may not want to go 4S now ... but I bet very soon the itch will start !!

The T45 will carry a 1800 3S 25C with about 25gr in the tail and that will give you a much better machine than the 800 pack. Yes it's heavier - but as you found - it floats on and still will with the bigger pack.

On 4S - I use 1600 35C Zippy Compacts.

To carry the above - you need to get a soldering iron and hollow out a bit of foam ... the soldering iron melts and creates a hard skin instead of removing the foam.

As to ESC ... I recc'd 40A or more ... I personally advocate on mine the Hobby King 50A or the Red Brick 50A ... cheap and cheerful and they are a tight fit into that channel.... allied to my cocktail stick retainer - it will never move !!

There is NO NEED to remove wing to change the ESC.

a) get thin string or thread. Unplug ESC Rx lead, attach thread. Attach another thread to ESC power lead ... these are at cockpit ends.
b) Remove EDF hatch and EDF unit so you can now get to ESC rear.
c) Pull out ESC with threads attached BUT make sure threads ends are still available in cockpit - I usually tie to a piece of foam or wood to stop them oulling through completely.
d) Now unplug ESC from motor ...
e) Plug new ESC to motor .. and BEFORE installation do a low power test to check motor turns correct direction ...
f) Unplug but note correct connection order.
g) transfer threads to new ESC leads and pull through to cockpit ... bed ESC into the channel and push cocktail stick through fuselage side to lock it down.

Now you can connect up ... resit EDF unit in ... close up hatch .. do up the screws (here I use clear packing tape as well round the hatch edges to seal ... ) ...

One tip : Remove that gunge the factory use to tack the EDF unit in place .. it's not needed. On some it actually distorts the shroud ring and can lead to blade strike. I have found that the EDF unit is held securely by the fuselage and hatch having the groove for the lip.

It's actually simple to do ... as I said - no need to remove wing.

Nigel
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