First some video:

micro Slow Stick conversion for Ember2 (2 min 49 sec)

Start by carefully cutting all the tabs that hold the parts into the balsa sheet and then remove the parts from the sheet.

Next carefully sand the edges of the parts to remove any remnants of the tabs.
Be particularly careful with the edges that form the joins for the 2 parts of each wing half.
Do not sand away more that absolutely necessary to remove the tabs.

Bevel the rudder and elevator by sanding a 45 degree angle on the side where each will hinge to its respective stabilizer.
The rudder in the picture was beveled on the wrong side. It does not make much of a difference but I think it is better
to have the bevel on the one side and the control horn on the opposite side. The ember has the rudder control horn on
the right side so the bevel should be on the left (when looking at the plane from behind).
The elevator is correctly beveled in the pictures (the front bottom of the elevator).

Each wing half consists of 2 parts, these need to be glued together with the result being 2 complete wing halves.

Use a ruler to align the parts for each wing half, ensure that the join is nice and snug (no gaps, sand gently if needed).
Apply a small amount of pressure and run a drop of CA along the joint. Rotate the wing half 180 degrees and repeat
the gluing process for the wing tip. Repeat process for other wing half also.

Next take a ruler and measure the distances from the wing root to the 4 points where the ribs will be mounted
(red marks in the picture below), make marks at the same distances on the leading edge. I like to very carefully
draw a pencil line between the marks this is a reference for where the wing ribs will be glued in place.
Repeat for other wing half.

Glue the 4 wing ribs in place on each wing half. I’m won’t try to explain my method here as I generally end up
with my fingers glued to the wing

The rudder and vertical stabilizer each have a little brace that needs to be glued in place.
The grain of the brace should 90 degrees to that of the part.
Gently sand the ends of the 2 braces until they fit into the rudder and vertical stab then glue them in place.

Carefully sand both sides of the rudder and vertical stabilizer so that they are smooth and the joins are flush with the rest of the part.

Joining the wing halves requires first sanding the root of each half to obtain the desired dihedral.

block the tip of the wing half up about 1.25" at the second rib from the wing tip. Use a sanding block to sand the wing root perpendicular to the work surface until the sanding block sits flush along the entire root of the wing half. Repeat for other wing half.

Before gluing the 2 wing halves together first use some tape to hold them together temporarily and test fit the wing to the front wing mount on the Ember airframe to ensure that the dihedral angle is correct. If not do some more sanding by either blocking each wing tip up a little further than before (increase dihedral) or a little less (decrease dihedral). It does not have to be exactly the same as the original ember wing but should not need to be forced to fit the front mount.

Now glue the the 2 wing halves together using some CA or wood glue or both or something else if you prefer.

Once the wing has been joined and the glue is dry gently sand the entire upper surface of the wing to remove any rough spots created by the glue to aid in having a more smooth covering finish.

To cover the wing and tail I like to use Coverite microlite, it's relatively easy to work with and pretty light. Any lightweight covering should suffice though.

Cut a piece of covering for one wing half that extends past the wing edges by about 1/4" all around. Do the same for the other wing half.

Place the horizontal stab and elevator upside down on the work surface (beveled side facing up) and use a piece or 2 of tape to hold them together as you would like them to be once covered (tape on the bottom only). Cut a single piece of covering for the horizontal stab and elevator also extending about 1/4" past the outside edges.

Do the same for the vertical stab and rudder as was done with the elevator (bevel side up and tape together). Cut 2 pieces of covering for the vertical stab/rudder combo each piece big enough to extend a little past the edges of the part.

To cover the wing I place the covering so that it overlaps the join in the middle of the wing by about 1/16".

Cover only the top of the wing and horizontal stab/elevator. The covering serves as the hinge for the elevator. Be careful to mot shrink the covering on the parts too much to avoid warping or breaking them. I like to cover the top and edge of the parts leaving only the bottom surface uncovered. Trim excess covering with a sharp blade and remove tape from bottom of elevator.

For the vertical stab/rudder, cover the side opposite the bevel first, NOT the side with the bevel. Trim excess covering and remove the tape from the uncovered side of the part. Now fold the rudder back against the vertical stab (towards the covered side). Carefully apply the covering to the uncovered side of the vertical stab then iron the covering down across the entire hinge/bevel area (so that when you open the rudder back out to it's neutral position the covering is inside the beveled area also). Then cover the remaining portion of the rudder. Trim excess covering.

Cut through covering over the slots for the control horns in the rudder and elevator and install control horns. I usually cut my own horns by hand unless I have some lying around from a small enough plane that has been "retired."

Start by mounting the tail. If the holes in the horizontal stabilizer need to be enlarged slightly, do so carefully and test fit it onto the plastic tail mounting bracket until it fits without having to force it on and sits flat against the bottom support tabs.

Remove the horizontal stab/elevator and cut a narrow strip of the covering away between the two mounting holes (this is where you will glue the vertical stab down). Install the elevator pushrod into the control horn on the elevator (I find it easier to do it this way rather than after having glued the tail down). Now reinstall the stab onto the mounting bracket. If possible, make adjustments to the location of the mounting brackets (forward or aft) so that the elevator is trimmed as close to neutral as possible with your elevator servo centered and at 0 trim.

Use a couple of drops of CA or your glue of choice to secure the horizontal stab to the mounting bracket making sure that it is flat against the bottom of the brackets and, when looking from above or below, perpendicular to the stick fuselage. You can also use a bit of glue to secure the mounting brackets to the fuselage if you are concerned that they might move around during flight.

To attach the vertical stab/Rudder, install the rudder pushrod into the rudder control horn then slide the vertical stab between the supports on top of the tail mounting bracket. Move the stab backwards or forwards until the rudder is in the neutral position with your rudder servo centered and with 0 trim.

Now glue the bottom of the vertical stab to the horizontal stab where they make contact. Ensure that the vertical stab is perpendicular to the horizontal stab and directly in line and aligned with the stick fuselage. I like to use a little bit of non-foaming glue to fill the small gaps between the sides of the vertical stab and the little support tabs as the balsa is slightly narrower than the original Ember foam stab.

To mount the wing, insert the center section of the leading edge of the wing into the front wing support, ensure it is centered, then use 2 small strips of tape to secure it in place. Adjust the rear wing support location so that it sits directly below the rear edge of the wing.

The simplest option to secure the rear of the wing (the way I prefer to do it and the plane seems to fly best this way also) is to lay the rear edge of the wing on top of the rear wing support, ensure it is centered and then tape it down with a couple of strips of tape.

Adjust the position of the wing mounts (front and rear) until the back edge of the front mount is approximately 1/16" in front of the servo gears on the brick, ensure that the gears do not rub or touch the mount.

DONE!

Initially I used a 120mAh 1S lipo moved as far forward as possible to balance the plane and it flew fine. Since then I have used the original Ember 70mAh battery with the battery holder located anywhere from the very front to all the way back against the front wing mount without any noticeable issues. I would recommend starting with the battery tray all the way forward for the first flights though and moving it about after you have an idea of how the plane flies.

Finally! It is mostly done!

Please PM me if anything is unclear or could/should be reworded. I will be taking some more pictures when I build another set to try and clarify the covering process a little more.

I have these kits available for sale in the classifieds section if anyone is interested.

Thanks,

Bob