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Old Dec 01, 2010, 06:14 PM
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Mini-HowTo
Assembling the shield for MultiWiiCopter

Guide for assembling the 1.11 shield is here - this also covers the 1.2 version as the changes were mostly cosmetic:

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...&postcount=188

For Versions 1.0, 1.11 and 1.2 you need to supply 5V on to one of the motor, servo or RX pins. Otherwise the LDO wont be powered in a FDTI situation and you wont have power to the sensors if using 3.3V supply from shield. For WMP and NK you can power from D12 - in this case the power from FDTI will also power the sensors.

A few words of caution:

The ProMini is a bit fragile. Take care when soldering on it. Always heat pins instead of pads.

It is very tricky to remove a pin once you soldered it into the ProMini. The board is thin, and the small pads rip easily - especially when heated!

When soldering pin-rows it is good practice to solder a corner pin first and use that to line up the row before soldering all the pins.

Pay attention to the input capacitor (C1) it is a polarized tantalum cap, and needs to be mounted the right way around!


---------------------------------------------------------


There are 2 versions available:

Raw PCB alone is 6 Euros

PCB, 3.3V positive LDO regulator/filter caps and 4,7 Kohm I2C pullups and 4108 diode for D12 is 10 euros!

Included components:

1 * L4931CZ33-AP 3.3V LDO positive regulator (IC1)
1* 2.2 uF Tantalum cap (C1)
1 * 0.1 uF ceramic cap (C2)
2* 4.7Kohm resistor (R1 and R2)
1* 1N4108N Diode (D1)

You can now get these from my shop at: www.viacopter.eu

Note that version 1.11 and 1.2 are sold out - Version 1.3BT is on its way here and should be in early may!
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Last edited by JussiH; May 02, 2011 at 03:09 AM. Reason: Sold out - new version coming
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Old Dec 02, 2010, 02:01 AM
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Great!
Now I can add another chapter to my build log.
And 15€ shipped sounds decent to me.
I'll order a bunch as soon as they're available.

Thx for your efforts!

Norbert
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Old Dec 02, 2010, 02:28 AM
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Nice job with this board.

The pcd dimmension are compatible with the mk boards?? i think are 45mm * 45mm holes separation is in it?.
And were is the pads for solder the buzzer.

Thx
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Old Dec 02, 2010, 03:13 AM
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Yes, its compatible with MK (50*50 board, with mountiong holes 45 mm apart)
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Old Dec 02, 2010, 03:31 AM
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I can see the gyro board attached, where does the nunchuck one attach to?

Looks like a nice clean solution to reducing the wiring. Very nice. Are they available now to the UK?

Regards,
Tony
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Old Dec 02, 2010, 05:24 AM
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Tjay, you can stick a clone NK underneath or on top of the WMP and use wires to connect RX and I2C. An original is no problem since it can be cut down to same size as WMP! When I get my clone version assembled Iīll post some pictures!

There is a clone NK with ADXL335, and that is probably the best option if you can find it. I got mine on DealExtreme, but its a lottery, and there is no way of beeing sure you get the right one.

Other option is to use ADXL345 from Sparkfun or a Bosch Accel that is beeing worked. There is not yet support for ADXL345 in the official code but probably will be soon! Iīll wire mine up soon and post some photos of that as well!

Having the sensors on the board is not always a good solution, because the wires can convey vibrations to the board. Sometimes it is better to stick the sensors (especially Accels) to the frame and use some very thin and short wires for the sensors!

I probably dont have anymore left of this batch. A new one will be ordered very soon....
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Old Dec 02, 2010, 06:46 AM
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I see. I'll keep my eyes open for your pictures then. Just ordered 2 clone nunchucks yesterday so I'll have to wait and see what they have in them. As you say it's a bit of a lottery but as this is my first venture into quads, I'll not know the difference in performance of the various components. Not for a while anyway.

Thanks for the info.

Any indication how long for the next batch to be available? Going to need two kits I think.

Regards,
Tony
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Old Dec 02, 2010, 06:59 AM
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Leadtime is about 3 weeks for the new batch. I hopefully will have them before christmas!
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Old Dec 02, 2010, 11:56 AM
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The s1 and S2 output, is for camera servos??
Where in the pcb can i include a buzzer??
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Old Dec 02, 2010, 12:09 PM
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The buzzer can be connected to alarm LED. I decided not to have it on the board, because piezo buzzer emit alot of ElectroMagnetic noise, and that can influence sensors.

You can find the Schematic to connect the buzzer here:

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1340771

No other decent board has the Buzzer onboard, and MikroKopter Recommends you place it as far from the board as possible to avoid it causing problems for the Magnetometer in particular!

Also there was doubt whether or not a Buzzer and LED would draw more than the 40 mA limit for digital pins on Arduino!

Final reason was I could not find a suitable small buzzer. And I prefer to hardwire a lipo alarm into the main power harness!

I will include dedicated pads for wiring up a buzzer in the next version. But I probably wont make room for it on board! I just dont feel its good practice to have a strong EM emitter next to the sensors!
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Old Dec 02, 2010, 02:07 PM
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Thanks 420.

The lastest questions...

I dont have 2.2uf thamtalum cap. instead i have 4.7uF i guess is not a critical value, is in it??

The 3.3v regulator is a 78L33 ??

The S1 and S2 output is for a camera servos?? or is a A0 and A1?? or both??

Which value has the rest of the parts?? (R3-R4-R5-R6 and C3)

These parts are vertical mount??

Sorry for so many questions, anyway if someone had any of this doub, now are answered.
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Old Dec 02, 2010, 02:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nosepo View Post
Thanks 420.

The lastest questions...

I dont have 2.2uf thamtalum cap. instead i have 4.7uF i guess is not a critical value, is in it??

The 3.3v regulator is a 78L33 ??

The S1 and S2 output is for a camera servos?? or is a A0 and A1?? or both??

Which value has the rest of the parts?? (R3-R4-R5-R6 and C3)

These parts are vertical mount??

Sorry for so many questions, anyway if someone had any of this doub, now are answered.
The one shown is a L78L33 ACZ from ST, which is not LDO, and is likely to drop out if voltage goes below 4.8-4.9V from BEC...I just used it as reference and for initial testing with separate BEC that kicks out a steady 5.2 V

Instead I will be supplying a 250 mA LDO regulator (L4931CZ33-AP) It has very low dropout voltage of 0.4-0.6V. Meanng that both your RX and the Arduino will brownout long before the regulator does.

http://docs-europe.origin.electrocom...6b80dbd8c0.pdf

2.2 uF is the suggested value for input cap on the particular LDO. But basically its a filtering cap and I canīt see any reason why a 4.7 should not work! There is also no need to use tantalum, if you can find a ceramic or electrolyte that will fit!

Any LDO (Low Dropout) 3.3V positive regulator in a TO-92 package will work!

S1 and S2 for camera! They are connected to A0 and A1!

I dont have the values for the voltage divider resistors (R3 and R4) - it depends on how many cells U are using. C3 is an optional decoupling Cap for the voltage divider circuit. A 0.1 uF ceramic would be my guess.

R5 and R6 is current limiters for the LEDīs. Somewhere between 80 and 220 ohms depending on your LED!

I just added the pads for voltage divider and the LEDīs as a service to the people wanting to mess around with that.
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Old Dec 02, 2010, 03:46 PM
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I just wanted to say that I cant keep up with demand for this shield. Tester shields and already agreed shields will go out friday! And new batch will be ordered beginning of next week!

When I have shipped tester samples, I will count the remaining boards and distribute them on a first come, first served basis. To all those who have already PMīed me: I will add you to the list, even if I dont answer right away.....
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Old Dec 02, 2010, 04:52 PM
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Looks great and really professional - good job

I have ripped and successfully repaired 3 pins on my mini so far
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Old Dec 02, 2010, 06:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UndCon View Post
Looks great and really professional - good job

I have ripped and successfully repaired 3 pins on my mini so far
Dont I know it. I wanted to replace the Raw pin, because it was a little misaligned. I heated the pin carefully and let it drop out under its own weight. But even so it took half of the bottom pad with it. Repaired it with a little jumper!

Here is a couple of examples I made this evening:

One is with original WMP/NK powered via D12. 1.4 soft 4.7KOhms pullups

Other is with Clone 1.2 WMP and Sparkfun ADXL345 powered by 3.3 regulator. No pullups (Point65 pre1.5 ADXL345 code - thanks!)

Both behave well on the GUI and motor response seems good. Havent testflown them yet!
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