Originally Posted by CzechSix

..........Is it as simple as cutting through the covering film over a pre-cut hole?

Yes

Originally Posted by CzechSix

Ok good to know, it was a little hard to tell from the instructions if I had to cut through the sheet balsa in order to cut the servo hatch for the flap servo. Is it as simple as cutting through the covering film over a pre-cut hole?

BTW, if you use a Y harness for the aileron servos as well as flaps, note that aileron servos face different directions while the flaps face the same direction, thus for ailerons, the slots mirror each other, while the flaps, the slots in the mount copy each other. got it?

Ok great then flaps stay in :-) Many thanks for the info!

Has anyone built it without installing/using flaps? As it has been mentioned the Piper L-4 did not have flaps. I am going to put some angle stock in two spots to keep them in place. If anything it will save on weight. I can then go back and add them if I feel like it.

In case anyone was thinking of a Monster Power 25, here were some results from some testing tonight. I have this MP as a spare for my Combat 2548 plane so I threw it on the motor test stand and ran an 11x8.5 prop.

MP25 840Kv measured
3S Blue Lipo 2200 25C 8mOhm per cell 11x8.5 APCe 11.45V 7400RPM 27A 10.4V under load 285W
3S GEns Ace 2200 25C 4mOhm per cell 11x8.5 APCe 12.05V 7750RPM 31A 11.2V under load 350W
4S Flightmax 2200 20C 20mOhm per cell 11x8.5 APCe 15.8V 8150RPM 33.5A 11.8V under load 395W
4S FMS 2200 20C 8mOhm per cell 11x8.5 APCe 16.0V 9100RPM 42A 13.4V under load 570W

MP has a constant current max of 32A and burst of 44A, I think the MP 25 would be too small to fly in the L-4 with a margin of safety. I order to get 400W+ I have to pull alot of current for the motor. That's kinda hard to find the right prop/battery combo.
The one thing I wanted to show here is how a battery can make a difference. The better Gens Ace battery drops less voltage under load and produces more wattage/RPM. Same thing with the FMS battery which is newer vs. the 2 year old Flightmax that is near the end of it's useful life. I did not show it but I also paralleled 2 30C 2200 3S batteries and they maxed out about 5% higher than the 3S gens ace but would yeild more flight time.

Is there a specific AMP for the lipo charger or just 12v DC output with any amount of AMP?

I have couple of AC/DC adapters wich are 12v DC but different AMPs so any advice?

My power supply is a 12v 30amp output unit that runs on 110v AC.

My rule of thumb, which might or might not have any validity, is to have about 25%+ more amps available from the power supply then will be drawn from the supply. Based on the ability of the batteries to take a charge 1C, 2C etc, more amps will mean shorter charging times & more flights.

I run 1 or more Lipo chargers off this power supply. Two of them are iCharger 106B's that are each rated at 10amp max output & used for main power Lipos. These are 12DC input only.

A Hyperion EOSO606i rated at 6amp max, Thunder AC6 rated at 5amp for smaller main power Lipos. These two will use either 110v AC or 12v DC. I notice that they will only run at the max charge rate when supported by 12v DC current. When running on 110v AC they are limited to 2.5amp output. IIRC it has something to do with the limitations of the internal transformer that is dropping the 110v current to 12v

Lastly a small 800mAh I use for TX Lipos. which are generally not a rush job to get charged.

The chargers can be run singularly or in groups off this power supply. I normally try to keep groups at 20amp output. Most of my batteries charge at 1C but I have 2 new 5S5000 nano-tech batteries that I charge at 2C which means 10amps each.

Originally Posted by Melnic

Boogie, what did you use for the glue to hold the windows in?
I've been debating using 15 minute epoxy (let sit for 8-10 minutes before applying thin amount) . Letting is sit hardens it up so it does not leak and flow out
or canopy glue.
I'm leaning towards the pre-cured epoxy method.
I just feel like canopy glue does not hold well.

I used canopy glue on some windows but switched to thin ca on the inside flange and a bead of medium on the outside. I think they will hold fine. If they don't back to canopy glue!

Originally Posted by Boogie_

Yep, Heads up is my "go to" spot now. Can't beat the the $2 shipping.

Way to go Ken.
The way this plane breaks down into three pieces, I can still bring 3 planes out to the field with me.

About 80% complete with mine. I ordered the smaller 3548 900kv...That's actually the motor it states in the manual

"The 3548-09 is a 5.8 ounce, 900KV direct drive outrunner brushless motor capable of producing 70 oz of thrust from a 3 cell Lipo battery and a 13 inch prop. It will also provide very nice performance with a 4-cell Lipo battery when using the TP 11x5.5E prop.

The 3548-09 is close in performance to a 40 size glow engine, and will power 40 class trainers very nicely. I installed the 3548-09 in a 40 size trainer, and I used the APC 13x6.5E prop and two Power Up 11.1v 2200 20C Lipos connected in parallel with a Parallel Battery Harness. This combination provided a very good rate of climb and I could fly for over 20 minutes doing touch and go landings".

I have it on the plane using Flightmax 30c 3300 3s, Hyperion 60a ESC with the APC 13X8E. I did not hook up the wattmeter yet but ran it up to full had tons of power and nothing seemed to overheat or even be warm. Gonna wattmeter it when I get home. I have other big motors if the numbers don't look good.

Originally Posted by BEAR-AvHistory

My power supply is a 12v 30amp output unit that runs on 110v AC.

My rule of thumb, which might or might not have any validity, is to have about 25%+ more amps available from the power supply then will be drawn from the supply. Based on the ability of the batteries to take a charge 1C, 2C etc, more amps will mean shorter charging times & more flights.

I run 1 or more Lipo chargers off this power supply. Two of them are iCharger 106B's that are each rated at 10amp max output & used for main power Lipos. These are 12DC input only.

A Hyperion EOSO606i rated at 6amp max, Thunder AC6 rated at 5amp for smaller main power Lipos. These two will use either 110v AC or 12v DC. I notice that they will only run at the max charge rate when supported by 12v DC current. When running on 110v AC they are limited to 2.5amp output. IIRC it has something to do with the limitations of the internal transformer that is dropping the 110v current to 12v

Lastly a small 800mAh I use for TX Lipos. which are generally not a rush job to get charged.

The chargers can be run singularly or in groups off this power supply. I normally try to keep groups at 20amp output. Most of my batteries charge at 1C but I have 2 new 5S5000 nano-tech batteries that I charge at 2C which means 10amps each.

Thanks for the info. So do you think I can use AC/DC adapter that has 12v DC and 5Amp output to charge 3s 3300mah 11.1v 30c?

please correct me if I am wrong

Originally Posted by symdnn

Thanks for the info. So do you think I can use AC/DC adapter that has 12v DC and 5Amp output to charge 3s 3300mah 11.1v 30c?

please correct me if I am wrong

12V x 5A = 60W.
So if you have a simple 50W charger, that will put out as much as the charger can handle.
What charger do you have or did i miss that?

I have a cheap Mystery 50W charger hooked up to a 12V 5a switching PS. I have a 15A 12V old CB radio power supply hooked up to my iCharger 106B and I use a big marine battery hooked up to my iCharger 3016B and a 1.5A slow charger hooked up to the Marine battery. Marine battery and 3016B often stays in my car.

For this summer i'll be buying a marine battery. I'm using a modified computer power supply and when i get over 5amps it cannot supply the needed power.

I just finished ordering the final Parts for my L4. 13x8 and 13x10 prop, extensions and a watt meter to test the setup. I should start my build in a few weeks

Originally Posted by symdnn

Thanks for the info. So do you think I can use AC/DC adapter that has 12v DC and 5Amp output to charge 3s 3300mah 11.1v 30c?

please correct me if I am wrong

If its a "Lipo" charger, yes. The charger would be set for 3 cells at 3.3amps to charge the 3S3300mah battery.

Originally Posted by Melnic

12V x 5A = 60W.
So if you have a simple 50W charger, that will put out as much as the charger can handle.
What charger do you have or did i miss that?

I have a cheap Mystery 50W charger hooked up to a 12V 5a switching PS. I have a 15A 12V old CB radio power supply hooked up to my iCharger 106B and I use a big marine battery hooked up to my iCharger 3016B and a 1.5A slow charger hooked up to the Marine battery. Marine battery and 3016B often stays in my car.

I use this charger http://www.hobbypartz.com/60p-dyc-1004.html

And I just confirmed that it uses 12v DC 5.0 Apm

Originally Posted by BEAR-AvHistory

If its a "Lipo" charger, yes. The charger would be set for 3 cells at 3.3amps to charge the 3S3300mah battery.

Thank you for that
Here is the charger I use http://www.hobbypartz.com/60p-dyc-1004.html