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Old Jan 12, 2013, 07:23 PM
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United States, AK, Anchorage
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But it is often not understood and blamed on radio failure.
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Old Jan 12, 2013, 07:30 PM
Just flitting about!!
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Joined Aug 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LoneWolfRC View Post
Brownout is not a radio issue, but a BEC, battery pack, and/or servo issue.
Agree, but how do you explain frequency of flying then. I've got thousands of flights out of my 8FGS and never a glitch. Others have a handful of flights, run flight packs, fully charged glow powered planes and down they go like flies?

No BEC, esc issues, no ignition batteries, no large throws on surfaces as they are training planes, and they drop like flies.
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Old Jan 12, 2013, 07:49 PM
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United States, MN, Minneapolis
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I'm not sure, but it's not brownout, with one caveat. If a system is suffering from brownout, and recovers, some radios will re-establish a link fater. But the better fix would be to ensure your Rx and servo power system is adequate to avoid brownout altogether.

I've seen a guy who flies futaba at my field have glitches. But even in his case, I suspect it was a servo issue.

My son and I lost a plane over a residential area, once. Foam flying wing with pusher prop from crash test hobbies. DSM2 (orange). The plane was about 1/10th as far from several houses as it was from the transmitter. I chaulked that one up to RF interferance due to prime time WiFi. I flew that plane many more time (after we found it, which took about 2 hours--good thing it was designed to crash, and good thing it didn't hit a house). But I stopped flying in the neighborhood due to RF issues. 2.4 is crowded in neighborhoods, and even though RC uses spread spektrum, the is the RF link budget to contend with, and those other spread spectrum transmitters (Rf, bluetooth, etc.) add to the noise floor.

This is just my model of understanding, though. I've done 2.4 GHz RF electronic designs, and I've done them well, but I don't consider myself an RF expert compared to some guys I know. It's all relative.
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Old Jan 13, 2013, 01:40 PM
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Guys will this location be okay for my ZTW B-Series 85A ESC. This thing has pretty short battery side leads so I am limited. My Glacier batteries have 10 gauge wire so they don't like tight turns either. My concern is with the ESC in the inside of the fuse there is limited direct air for the cowl plus the battery will be right close to it. If you are using this ZTW B-Series would you post a picture of your location please.

I did a string measurement off the wing tube with these batteries and they are 2-1/2" forward of the wing tube .
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Old Jan 13, 2013, 03:24 PM
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Hey guys-

Have about 8 or so flights on the Edge - awesome. Couple of questions - flies great but is sensitive on the elevator (even with 70% expo) on hovers. I am running the torque motor and esc from Extreme. I am also running a 15x6E Xoar on 6S 3300 25C. Would a bigger prop (16x7 or 16X8) work better for practicing 3D? Based on what I have read - seems so. Any issue with running 6S 3300 25C on the Torque motor with a 16X7 or 16x8? EF recommends 5S for 16 size props. Wanted to make sure 6S is ok as well. I am also going to keep moving the battery back. It is about 1 inch from the wing tube.
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Old Jan 13, 2013, 03:44 PM
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Burke, VA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ohio AV8TOR View Post
Guys will this location be okay for my ZTW B-Series 85A ESC. This thing has pretty short battery side leads so I am limited. My Glacier batteries have 10 gauge wire so they don't like tight turns either. My concern is with the ESC in the inside of the fuse there is limited direct air for the cowl plus the battery will be right close to it. If you are using this ZTW B-Series would you post a picture of your location please.

I did a string measurement off the wing tube with these batteries and they are 2-1/2" forward of the wing tube .
I have my ZTW esc mounted on the right side of the motor box and even though the wires just reach inside the fuse it's still pretty easy to hook up the batts. I did have to add a small extension for the receiver wire and I have the Hitec receivers so I also had to use a short extension on the spc wire. Other than that no problems. This way it gets plenty of cooling air.
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Old Jan 13, 2013, 04:48 PM
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Okay I took a stab at mounting the ESC under the battery tray on the right side so basically the ESC lead comes up in the same spot. I think I like this better as the battery has air passage on all side now (but the bottom) and same with the ESC.
One mor inch of ESC battery wire would have been great.
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Old Jan 13, 2013, 04:54 PM
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That is short. But shorter battery to ESC wires are better for the ESC capacitors. I'm putting my ESC in the same spot, turned 90 degrees, above the battery tray on my MXS. Benefit is I'll be able to monitor the temperature easier. The down side is in a crash the battery may end up pushing into the ESC.
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Old Jan 16, 2013, 06:50 AM
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Getting real close to maiden on my Edge. Wow those 7245's are fast I am very glad I went with them. My problem right now is I am traveling too much for work.

I am going to call Quantum and see if I can add eben 1-1/2" to mine or I might just go back to XT60 connectors as they are so much easier to plug in. The Deans are so hard to get aligned to get inserted. I choose the Deans because all of my 6S batteries came with them on so I thought it would just be easier to solder one Deans than 5 XT60's

Weather just bits right now.
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Old Jan 16, 2013, 07:10 AM
Honeybadger don't care...
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Orlando, FL
Joined May 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ohio AV8TOR View Post
Okay I took a stab at mounting the ESC under the battery tray on the right side so basically the ESC lead comes up in the same spot. I think I like this better as the battery has air passage on all side now (but the bottom) and same with the ESC.
One mor inch of ESC battery wire would have been great.
Any thoughts of unsoldering the Deans and adding a length of wire to the ESC? My understanding (could be wrong) is that the wire length between the motor and ESC should not be lengthened, but the wires from the ESC-Battery can be lengthened a bit without negative consequences. Soldering all that stuff is a pain, but I have done that on 4 ESC's so far and the long term benefit has far-outweighed the inconvenience of extending those wires.

Just a thought...
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Old Jan 16, 2013, 07:22 AM
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This best way to do this is to snip back the wire beyond the tinned section and remove the insulation on both wires. Fray out the wires some and press them together just as plugging a bullet connector. Then press down the frayed strands together and knead with your fingers till round again. Then flux and wick in the solder.

As for the length there are issues with extending the battery side of your ESC and I cannot tell you what the safe length is. I plan on calling first on that. I do believe that 3-1/2" is shorter than necessary and going to 5" I hope will be okay.
What is the length of the Airboss and Castle ESC's would some please chime in?
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Old Jan 16, 2013, 09:17 AM
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USA, FL, Largo
Joined Dec 2005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Luv3d View Post
Any thoughts of unsoldering the Deans and adding a length of wire to the ESC? My understanding (could be wrong) is that the wire length between the motor and ESC should not be lengthened, but the wires from the ESC-Battery can be lengthened a bit without negative consequences.
The general consensus is that lengthening the wiring is really hard on the ESCs . I remember years ago the Boss saw one of my set up photos and was mortified that I had to add 6" of wire.

On the new Airboss the wires are longer, but the old ones were stubby little things. When I was flying another brand, there was one plane I had to lengthen the wires on or the plug would not reach the battery compartment. I ran several Airboss like that and they were fine, but that doesn't necessarilly mean I was or wasn't lucky.
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Old Jan 16, 2013, 09:26 AM
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Just throw a CC cappack on there if you are extending the leads. It allows for up to 8 extra inches http://www.castlecreations.com/produ...-cap-pack.html
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Old Jan 16, 2013, 09:33 AM
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United States, MN, Minneapolis
Joined Nov 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Luv3d View Post
Any thoughts of unsoldering the Deans and adding a length of wire to the ESC? My understanding (could be wrong) is that the wire length between the motor and ESC should not be lengthened, but the wires from the ESC-Battery can be lengthened a bit without negative consequences. Soldering all that stuff is a pain, but I have done that on 4 ESC's so far and the long term benefit has far-outweighed the inconvenience of extending those wires.

Just a thought...
I remove the wires altogether, and solder on 10 gauge wire from hobbyking, and HXT 4mm bullet connectors from hobbypartz. I keep the wires short.

But your understanding is backwards from mine.

You can lengthen the wires to the motor, but lengthening the wires between the motor and ESC will make the ESC capacitors work harder, and may impact the ESC's BEC as well.

Ideally, ESC and battery makers would use heavy gage parallel flat ribbon wire, but that has a lot of practical drawbacks. The CC cap packs are a good krutch if you need to lengthen the battery/esc distance.
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Old Jan 16, 2013, 12:26 PM
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United States, TX, Benbrook
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I just spoke with Tim at Quantum about this as he is the ZTW dealer and he said that the factory recommends the "total" wire length, and this includes your lipo leads and ESC leads be no longer than 12". He also did mention that Castle CAP pack suggestion as well if you need to do more. I just checked and my Glacier 6S have 4" wires to the Deans post and my ESC is 3-1/2". I am first going to switch back to the XT60's first because I can make the connection it is just extremely difficult using the Deans (which is why I switched to the XT60's in the first place)
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