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Old Feb 17, 2013, 06:54 PM
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BlackBeast's Avatar
Canada, QC, Témiscouata-sur-le-Lac
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Originally Posted by viperviper View Post
i'm using 4S 4000mah 45-90C lipo. 3mins on timer, normally i will allow it to beep and then i will line up to land. Yes, 10 blades fan.
??? Only 3 min. on a 4000 !!! How many mA do you put back in when charging?

What is you motor?

I plan to use 3300mAh 30C... and also a ten blades.

Man i'll fly only 2 min... ;-((
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Old Feb 18, 2013, 07:48 AM
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Yes ViperViper and myself are still using the stock LG, for some of you may have ask.
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Old Feb 18, 2013, 09:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackBeast View Post
??? Only 3 min. on a 4000 !!! How many mA do you put back in when charging?

What is you motor?

I plan to use 3300mAh 30C... and also a ten blades.

Man i'll fly only 2 min... ;-((
i'm using leopard 3400KV motor with CS 10 blade fan and 150A ESC. i put back around 2000 to 2400ma back to the pack. the CG is perfect in my opinion with the 4S 4000mah lipo in this F-18.
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Old Feb 18, 2013, 12:33 PM
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Canada, QC, Témiscouata-sur-le-Lac
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Originally Posted by viperviper View Post
i'm using leopard 3400KV motor with CS 10 blade fan and 150A ESC. i put back around 2000 to 2400ma back to the pack. the CG is perfect in my opinion with the 4S 4000mah lipo in this F-18.
Ok! You use only 50 to 60% of your lipo's capacity. Then i'll be pobably able to fly around 3 to 3.5 min. at 80% of my 3300 with moderate throttle.

Thx very much for all your answers to my questions.

One more: Did you check how many amps your set up draw at full throttle?
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Old Feb 18, 2013, 06:41 PM
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Originally Posted by blackbeast View Post
ok! You use only 50 to 60% of your lipo's capacity. Then i'll be pobably able to fly around 3 to 3.5 min. At 80% of my 3300 with moderate throttle.

Thx very much for all your answers to my questions.

One more: Did you check how many amps your set up draw at full throttle?

100a
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Old Feb 18, 2013, 07:12 PM
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Originally Posted by viperviper View Post
100a
Ok thanks!

That's about what i had supposed.

No more question... for now... lol
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Old Feb 19, 2013, 02:09 AM
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Originally Posted by BlackBeast View Post
Ok thanks!

That's about what i had supposed.

No more question... for now... lol
no problem, u can pm me if u hv any further queries.
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Old Feb 19, 2013, 03:38 PM
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United States, CA, Garden Grove
Joined Sep 2011
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Originally Posted by xfatdannx View Post
Here is my blog, check my pics to see how i added the spar all the way through.

Good idea to put in carbon rod..the wing joint on this Hornet is one of the worst design..check out what happened to mine
F-18 wing snapped in mid air with slow motion footage (1 min 6 sec)
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Old Feb 19, 2013, 06:42 PM
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USA, MD, Frederick
Joined Jan 2010
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Originally Posted by cnchelicopter View Post
Good idea to put in carbon rod..the wing joint on this Hornet is one of the worst design..check out what happened to mine
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kiB4I_gZ4Us
Eject, eject, eject
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Old Feb 20, 2013, 01:31 AM
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Originally Posted by cnchelicopter View Post
Good idea to put in carbon rod..the wing joint on this Hornet is one of the worst design..check out what happened to mine
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kiB4I_gZ4Us
ya i had heard that complaint coming from the stock set up guys, and i was going for an upgraded system with extra weight. Someone even told me my epoxy job looked like my wings had ripped off already, that was just EXCESS epoxy bc i was scared of this same situation.
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Old Feb 20, 2013, 05:27 PM
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United States, NV, Las Vegas
Joined Dec 2005
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F-18 relationship

My relationship with the F-18 began probably back in 2007 when my youngest son was serving on the Harry S. Truman. The Truman was mainly flying F-14s when he first signed up but then they switched to the Hornet and Super Hornet. The Navy does a wonderful thing for families of the personnel serving on a carrier--they organize a family day where they take you out to sea on the carrier.

I was able to tour the whole ship as they sailed about 50 miles off the Norfolk Virginia coast. Then they assembled a row of bleachers parallel to the angle deck and they put on a show. For F-18s did touch and go’s, and then landed right in front of us. Then of course they took off and we got to see the catapults and action and feel the power of these amazing Warbirds as they blasted into the sky. Then they proceeded to blow up things out at sea and put on a simulated battle and air combat.

I posted a few video clips and the links so you can see an F-18 or two in their natural environment.

Touch and go—simulated bolters
11 TOUCH AND GO (0 min 19 sec)


Landing:-
12 LANDING (0 min 28 sec)


Cat launch:-
13 LAUNCH (0 min 19 sec)


Sound barrier at sea level:-
14 SOUND BARRIER AND E2S (0 min 28 sec)



Regards, Eric.
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Old Feb 20, 2013, 05:34 PM
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United States, NV, Las Vegas
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F-18 coincidence

During that time I was getting into EDF’s prior to writing about them. I had built a brace F-18’s that had come out in the diamond back color scheme. I also got to know Don, of ‘Wicked’ fame and thus began my relationship with adding power to stock EDF’s.

If you look at the color scheme and the actual number on the F-18 you can see the squadron and aircraft identity. Fast forward to 2012 and my son is posted to Japan to serve on the George Washington, and you guessed it, it’s the same squadron on the Washington, and the same plane. Quite a coincidence!

My son specializes in ejection seats/systems, but also spends a lot of his time ducking as they launch these things from the deck. I will always remain impressed that only by the skill of all those involved with operating a carrier, but also how the Navy transformed my son into a responsible individual.

So when I saw the nitro 70-mm F-18 with the current diamondback color scheme I had to get one. The 70 -m fan unit is very easy to upgrade to one of Don’s units, but that landing gear!

All I need now is permission to fly off the deck........

Regards, Eric.
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Old Feb 20, 2013, 05:38 PM
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United States, NV, Las Vegas
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Teething troubles......

The nitro planes 70 mm F-18 is a fairly complete model and really did not need a lot of changes to get it ready to fly. I really had problems with the landing gear ball joints breaking nad popping off the mains, but I made some new ones and they seem to work correctly. I even managed to get the gear doors to operate, or so I thought.

I added all of the ordinance and the center of gravity came out just fine with a 4S 3300 LIPO. So I headed off to the field to make a video I can send to my boy in Japan. Here is what happened:-

F 18 TAKE OFF NO (1 min 40 sec)


It was quite a disappointment watching this landing gear try to perform. I will take some of the responsibility in that I could not get rid of the angles that were being created by the rear wheels, with the new ball-link connector I made, but there was more than that going on.

Upon inspection it was found that one of the nose wheels had split in half and the tire had caused both of the wheels to dig into and jam against the nose leg suspension mechanism. It became clear that the gear doors were also jamming when I tried to retract the wheels to put the plane in the car.

So back to my workshop, because it looked like this landing gear was going to require a lot of my attention, and/or replacement.

Exeasperated Eric.....
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Old Feb 20, 2013, 05:56 PM
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Back in the shop!!!

“So back to my workshop, because it looked like this landing gear was going to require a lot of my attention, and/or replacement.”

The landing gear in this airplane is quite attractive. But I noticed several things on watching everybody else’s videos, in particular the tendency for the plane to tip and then be unable to get one of the rear legs to compress again. I took mine off and took a good look at them and became very clear that once a leg is fully extended it could only compress one moved backwards.

I took the leg apart and screwed the top and bottom brass pivot points further into the legs. Then I moved the silicon bumper further of the leg. What this did was pretty position the leg so that it had a propensity to compress when pressure was applied in a vertical manner. This made a big difference, but there was still a problem being created because the springs were simply too strong.

I experimented by shortening the coil springs until the F-18 could make the suspension compress under its own weight. So what happens now! is when he F-18 bobbles its way down the runway, or in my case the street, the F-18 is able to recover from any tipping action without the rear leg getting stuck in the fully extended position. It can do this when sitting still all when rolling.

I did have to shorten one of the brass pivot points inside the suspension unit to let the assembly refit over the 3 mm stub. Otherwise it was a fairly simple exercise to change the activating geometry and get the F-18 to taxi sensibly.

The second action on the rear mains required a re-engineering of the 90° rotating ball joints. It wasn’t too hard. It was just a matter of finding the right ball-joint with enough plastic material to allow the 2 mm threaded rod to get a good enough grip. I was then able to configure the mains with some respectable toe-in, which resulted in straight wheels when the gear was fully compressed.

I did have to file one of the suspension legs, because it was creating a better angle for the wheel. What I did was squeeze the opening fraction device, and then file a slightly different angle so the fully compressed wheel angle matched the other leg. With the improved toe-in configuration the ball joints behaved much more reliably and stopped popping off the legs were fully down.

So some of this was clearly a matter of adjusting a few settings once the new ball-joint link had been fabricated, but there was no way this main landing gear was going to work the way it was supplied. In reading all the posts I see that many of you just gave up and I the fitted alternative gear, the fixed gear assembly or simply no gear at all.

Then I turned my attention to that pesky nose wheel.
Regards, Eric.
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Old Feb 20, 2013, 06:12 PM
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That bloody nosewheel.....

“Then I turned my attention to that pesky nose wheel.”

The first thing I did was remove the wheels and see the damage. Then I looked for some stronger wheels in my tail wheel box and found to the matched that were only about 3/16 of an inch bigger than the damaged ones. Never say only—because they snagged the doors even more now……Then I made some spacers out of nylon nuts to keep the wheels away from the scissor mechanism of the nose leg.

Based on the bigger wheels issue, I decided to turn the leg around, so I took it off and drilled for a new threaded 3 mm hole on the other side of the leg attachment to retract stub-leg. This did two things for me. First it took the screw that guided the sliding compression part of strut to the rear side. This prevented it snagging the pull-pull wires. And secondly it seemed to help the wheels get into the well without interfering with the gear doors. It also smoothed out the area where the leg makes contact with the gear door actuating wire.

I put a stronger spring and the centering mechanism for the nose leg because the one supplied did not do the job. Stronger spring really prevented the leg from twisting during retraction.

Now, all that was left to do is to sort out the gear doors, or simply remove them.

Regards, Eric.
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Last edited by Eric Henderson; Feb 22, 2013 at 12:31 PM.
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