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Old Nov 13, 2011, 06:07 AM
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Hi Babak,

I'm going to redirect you to the proper threads.

This thread is more about the connection diagrams of the MultiWii, I suggest you enter your questions in the main thread or on the dedicated MultiWii forum. Those are the places where questions are being followed up & answered.

Best regards & good luck
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Old Dec 18, 2011, 02:32 PM
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Originally Posted by berkely View Post
Alexinparis MultiWii multirotor platform additional info.
5 and 6 are not identical!
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Old Dec 19, 2011, 01:23 AM
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Originally Posted by captaingeek View Post
5 and 6 are not identical!
Hi,

Indeed, they are a different approach but should result in the same working connection. Can you be a little more specific please about what you mean exactly please?

Thanks.
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Old Dec 20, 2011, 06:00 PM
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ive tried option 2 a number of times without luck. i am using a wmp and a adxl345 acc. couple of notes. a BEC must be connected and powered otherwise raw will have no power. this can cause issues somtimes where the BEC and get blown out or overheat or even the USB port gets fried.

with the the WMP only you dont have to comment any of the sensors. with the ADXL345 connected do you have to comment in itg3200 and the adxl345?

im trying option 2 right now and am unable to get any readings.
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Old Jan 01, 2012, 04:35 PM
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Hi,

I am a retired engineer and newcomer to the Arduino-Wii-Multicopter forum.

I have many questions arising from studying the forum for some weeks now.

I have almost all of the kit to build a tricopter or stabilised fixed wing platform for aerial photography and videography.

I am not sure how I am supposed to behave when asking a question or entering into a discussion but here goes:

I am having a great deal of difficulty following the many threads and the non-standard connection terminology and connection protocols used in this forum.

For example:

The Multiwii tri/Quad Copter drawing dated 01-12-11 Rev 1.9 sheet 2 shows the RXI pin being used as an output to drive the Serial LCD. I was under the impression ( in nearly forty years of electronics design ) that a Serial Receiver pin is an input, hence the "I" in RXI and that the Serial Transmit pin is an output hence the "O" in TXO. Yet this drawing and all its relations along with the attached notes infer that the serial LCD is being driven by the Arduino serial input denoted RXI? I have also seen FTDI connections diagrams showing RXI to RXI and TXO to TXO connections being made - surely not!

I then find a baffling array of other anomalies both in drawn and imaged forms.

Some examples follow with regard to using ORIGINAL Nintendo Wii Plus and Nunchuk gyro and accelerometer boards which, as far as I can ascertain, have not been addressed in a definitive manner and only add to the confusion:

Is Pin 6 of Con1 of the Nunchuk board connected in any way and, if so, to what?

Ditto for Pin 7 of J1 on the Wii Plus?

Can the connection of Pin 1 to Pin 3 that is posited as being mandatory for J3 of the Wii Plus be carried out on J1 instead?

Further, is there any reason not to interchange the connectors J1 and J3 altogether or just use one of them as, for example, when wire wrapping connections?

I must apologise for being straightforward but I am frustrated with having to trawl through all the threads, with all the variable quality and sometimes conflicting information thus resulting in only limited success. I have tried to find the answers to these questions but without a definitive and logically collated "Manual" or "User Guide" I am finding it very difficult to go forward with confidence which is somewhat unfamiliar territory for me.

If anyone would be so kind as to either answer my questions directly or link me to some definitive information then I should be most grateful.
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Old Jan 02, 2012, 02:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by captaingeek View Post
ive tried option 2 a number of times without luck. i am using a wmp and a adxl345 acc. couple of notes. a BEC must be connected and powered otherwise raw will have no power. this can cause issues somtimes where the BEC and get blown out or overheat or even the USB port gets fried.

with the the WMP only you dont have to comment any of the sensors. with the ADXL345 connected do you have to comment in itg3200 and the adxl345?

im trying option 2 right now and am unable to get any readings.
Hi Captaingeek,

I hope in the mean time you were able to connect the components & get them running. The drawings have been discussed a long time ago with several users & those options 1 & 2 came up as 2 working solutions. As far as I know these setups have been working before so I don't see a reason why they shouldn't work anymore in v1.9.

I suggest to discuss this in the Connection elements section of Alex his forum.
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Old Jan 02, 2012, 03:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bartonwood View Post
Hi,

For example:

The Multiwii tri/Quad Copter drawing dated 01-12-11 Rev 1.9 sheet 2 shows the RXI pin being used as an output to drive the Serial LCD. I was under the impression ( in nearly forty years of electronics design ) that a Serial Receiver pin is an input, hence the "I" in RXI and that the Serial Transmit pin is an output hence the "O" in TXO. Yet this drawing and all its relations along with the attached notes infer that the serial LCD is being driven by the Arduino serial input denoted RXI? I have also seen FTDI connections diagrams showing RXI to RXI and TXO to TXO connections being made - surely not!
Yes, this is correct, that's the reason why I mentioned the following under every diagram:

Quote:
Note that the RX1 pin from the Arduino is used to transmit the serial data to the LCD. The LCD can be connected using a simple servo lead this way.
This is a special "trick" that Alex is using so the 3 necessary pins are right next to each other & one can use a normal available servo lead to connect the LCD. So it's correct, he's using the receive pin to transmit. One is never to old to learn

Quote:
I then find a baffling array of other anomalies both in drawn and imaged forms.

Some examples follow with regard to using ORIGINAL Nintendo Wii Plus and Nunchuk gyro and accelerometer boards which, as far as I can ascertain, have not been addressed in a definitive manner and only add to the confusion:
I'm not sure I'm following you here, one of the reasons there are only 6 pins drawn on the WM+ is that some versions have 6, other 7 or even 8 pins, mostly the ones with 7 or 8 have 2 pins which are common. It's quite impossible to have 1 common diagram covering all these different clone & original WM+ versions. The connection shown is normally valid for most WM+, just keep in mind that some versions have a common pin 7 or 8.

Quote:
Is Pin 6 of Con1 of the Nunchuk board connected in any way and, if so, to what?
Ditto for Pin 7 of J1 on the Wii Plus?
It's not on the drawing, so it should not be connected indeed. Most probably they are common on your board.

Quote:
Can the connection of Pin 1 to Pin 3 that is posited as being mandatory for J3 of the Wii Plus be carried out on J1 instead?

Further, is there any reason not to interchange the connectors J1 and J3 altogether or just use one of them as, for example, when wire wrapping connections?
I don't think that's possible, the NK is connected to the WM+ in a pass through mode, they actually both have the same I2C address so the need to be connected in the way shown in the diagram.

Quote:
I must apologise for being straightforward but I am frustrated with having to trawl through all the threads, with all the variable quality and sometimes conflicting information thus resulting in only limited success.
No problem, however I'm not sure if you would want to go with a NK, this isn't the best solution, in the mean time so many IMU boards have made available which are easier to connect & are almost cheaper. (search for the 6dof board from Drotek for example.)
Using a standard WM+ clone is still very cheap & this is a proven setup used by many users. (Search for Warthox his video's if you want to know the capabilities of this simple cheap setup)

mwc quad - flyduino mwc board (3 min 0 sec)


Quote:
I have tried to find the answers to these questions but without a definitive and logically collated "Manual" or "User Guide" I am finding it very difficult to go forward with confidence which is somewhat unfamiliar territory for me.
Please checkout the 2 build logs mentioned in the first post, there are pictures from the connections of the WM+ & NK.
There are also video's available from AlouetteIII: Preparing a Wii Motion Plus MP+ for a MultiWiiCopter

Good luck.
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Old Jan 05, 2012, 12:00 PM
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Personally, I would not recommend this board to anyone. I have one and because of the mislabeling and the abnormal power-pins layout, it is very EASY to destroy your Nano for which I did!!
its not mislabeled its just thats its made for a nano v2.x.
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Old Jan 07, 2012, 08:53 AM
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Hi all,
Quite new to this but generaly good with arduino based projects but need your advice on the NK below.
I have read that most boards can be cut down the middle to get rid of the joystick side but this clone looks a little odd compared to the others I have seen (online pics).
Could some one take a peek please and comment!

Thanks!
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Old Jan 07, 2012, 09:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flylite View Post
Hi all,
Quite new to this but generaly good with arduino based projects but need your advice on the NK below.
I have read that most boards can be cut down the middle to get rid of the joystick side but this clone looks a little odd compared to the others I have seen (online pics).
Could some one take a peek please and comment!

Thanks!
i could be wrong on this but that looks to be full intergration.. cut the joystick off the top of the board after desoldering it and mount it to the underside of your pcb.. i had to do something similar to that with my nyko clone nk.
worked out fine and flies pretty good! considering!
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Old Jan 09, 2012, 12:55 PM
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Thanks for that.
One other question, I keep reading that the Wii components need 3.3v - I'll be running the arduino pro board at 5v, I take it that its ok to let the Wii components run at this higher Voltage?
I have just ordered one of bobs super simple shields but that will be for another project once I have got my first off the ground.
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Old Jan 17, 2012, 03:47 PM
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Powering Paris 4.0 boards

Hi,
I'm looking for some clarification on supplying power to a new Paris 4.0 PNP board. Note that this board has the jumper soldered, was pre-loaded/configured for a Y6 tricopter with V1.9 and the Sirius 3200 only (no WMP).

Included with the board was a set of printed instructions which presented 3 choices for powering the board. The 2nd choice was the recommended choice (for smaller tricopters) and advises to use power from the ESCs in parallel and leave the jumper soldered - no external BEC.

The second option (recommended for larger tricopters) advised to desolder the jumper, use a BEC AND ESCs in parallel for the ESC side of the board.

However, most of the advice I've seen here in RCGroups and also in the Wiki on Multiwiicopters.com is, at MOST, use only a single ESC BEC and to disable the hot wire on the other ESCs.

Which is correct? I'm building a Y6 with 775kv motors and the 500mm shields and 230mm CF arms - is that considered a lighter/midde weight or larger tricopter? It's certainly smaller and lighter than my current model!

Also, if I desolder the jumper, then does the board require a seperate power supply to work correctly with the GUI?

Thanks!!

Jim C.
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Old Jan 18, 2012, 04:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jimfc View Post
Hi,
I'm looking for some clarification on supplying power to a new Paris 4.0 PNP board. Note that this board has the jumper soldered, was pre-loaded/configured for a Y6 tricopter with V1.9 and the Sirius 3200 only (no WMP).

Included with the board was a set of printed instructions which presented 3 choices for powering the board. The 2nd choice was the recommended choice (for smaller tricopters) and advises to use power from the ESCs in parallel and leave the jumper soldered - no external BEC.

The second option (recommended for larger tricopters) advised to desolder the jumper, use a BEC AND ESCs in parallel for the ESC side of the board.

However, most of the advice I've seen here in RCGroups and also in the Wiki on Multiwiicopters.com is, at MOST, use only a single ESC BEC and to disable the hot wire on the other ESCs.

Which is correct? I'm building a Y6 with 775kv motors and the 500mm shields and 230mm CF arms - is that considered a lighter/midde weight or larger tricopter? It's certainly smaller and lighter than my current model!

Also, if I desolder the jumper, then does the board require a seperate power supply to work correctly with the GUI?

Thanks!!

Jim C.
all depends on what you want to do with your Y6,

if you want to do AP/FPV then the paris board recomends you use a seperate BEC and desolder the power jumper pads.

if just fun flying then leave the power pad soldered and only use one power line from your esc's to power your paris board.

i have the paris board v4 and i have used it with and without a seperate BEC and i have not noticed any diff, other than with a seperate BEC you dont get so much of a surge of power to your components, this i solved with a power switch inline from the batt to the esc's.

so its up to you, seperate BEC means more weight and an extra battery for it, or power from the esc's.
RCT
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Old Jan 18, 2012, 10:15 AM
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Thanks RCT!
Yes, I just received an email from Quinton and he recommended trying it first as it is and use the ESCs in parallel for power as long as I'm not using servos. I do plan to use this for Video/FPV later, but I plan to add another board to control the camera servos at that time. So, for now I'll leave the pad soldered and will try the ESCs to power everything.

Your last comment leads me to believe that you advise a seperate battery if I use the BEC and the ESCs with the pad desoldered? Can't I power both circuits from a single 4C battery?

Thanks again!

Jim

Quote:
Originally Posted by rcta15 View Post
all depends on what you want to do with your Y6,

if you want to do AP/FPV then the paris board recomends you use a seperate BEC and desolder the power jumper pads.

if just fun flying then leave the power pad soldered and only use one power line from your esc's to power your paris board.

i have the paris board v4 and i have used it with and without a seperate BEC and i have not noticed any diff, other than with a seperate BEC you dont get so much of a surge of power to your components, this i solved with a power switch inline from the batt to the esc's.

so its up to you, seperate BEC means more weight and an extra battery for it, or power from the esc's.
RCT
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Old Jan 20, 2012, 04:31 PM
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wanna say thanks to Alex+ Berkely + Quinton & learn more... subscribe

Ounce you find reliable patform... you can take a little more risk...

Paris V3 on duty :

Promo Chalet (2 min 52 sec)
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