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Old Mar 09, 2013, 05:36 AM
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coreman's Avatar
United States, MA, Southbridge
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Originally Posted by dth7 View Post
Managed to finish up the RP with some mods and the full house setup on the DX7s thanks to Tim in a 2012 RCG post. Mods: CF on empennage, cert stab and elevator. I removed the useless strip on the bottom of the horizontal stab and mounted it vertically in the stab, now it actually does something! The rear end is quite stiff now. Is anyone flying it with the stock wing tube or have most guys replaced it with a stiffer one? If so, where are people getting the new tube?
Thanks.
I flew it with the stock tube last fall for a while. I am using this tube cut to length
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Old Mar 09, 2013, 09:26 AM
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I am using p/n 020975 (0.375 x 32") from this source:

http://goodwinds.com/carbon/pultruded-tubes.html
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Old Mar 09, 2013, 08:27 PM
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Thanks guys, I assume you get a significant performance boost. I brushed some med CA around the wing saddle area just to help reduce crushing from mounting and removing the wings. Can't think of much else to do until I fly it. Might order a new tube. The stock is a bit soft. I put a Sp 6200 Rx with a satellite in this just for giggles. Had to carve out on the belly behind the servos to mount it, then covered with white tape. I think I'll enjoy messing with the crow, camber and reflex. Had to write myself notes since all the switches are different than my standard setups for D/R, etc.
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Old Mar 09, 2013, 10:17 PM
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Canada, ON, Sault Ste. Marie
Joined Feb 2013
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Watched my RP spin in earlier today, when I recovered it the AR600 red light was flashing five times then off then five times. Could this be an issue with the stock ESC? I think it may have gotten wet a few weeks ago. Also I was flying in heavy winds could the rapid servo movement have overwhelmed the ESC?
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Old Mar 09, 2013, 11:43 PM
KC
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United States, FL, Orlando
Joined Sep 2006
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The flashing indicates the number of 'holds'.

Holds have to do with the quality of the radio link, not the ESC. Reevaluate the Rx's antenna positions. Ideally, the Tx's and the Rx's antennas need to be prarallel to one another for the best reception.

Also, make sure you are not pointing the tip of the Tx's antenna right at the plane when flying.

Manual


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Originally Posted by manual
Hold Indicator
The AR600 features a red LED (labeled H). This LED indicates the number of holds that have occurred since the receiver was last powered on. The LED will flash the number of holds then pause (e.g., flash, flash, flash, pause flash, flash, flash, pause) This indicates three holds. Note that holds are reset to zero when the receiver is turned off.

Frame loss—represents simultaneous antenna fades on all attached receivers. If the RF link
is performing optimally, frame losses per flight should be less than 20. A hold occurs when 45 consecutive frame losses occur. This takes about one second. If a hold occurs during a flight, it’s important to evaluate the system, moving the antennas to different locations and/or checking to be sure the transmitter and receivers are all working correctly.
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Old Mar 10, 2013, 12:56 AM
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United States, NH, Greenland
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kaptondave View Post
I am using p/n 020975 (0.375 x 32") from this source:

http://goodwinds.com/carbon/pultruded-tubes.html
Just ordered. Thanks!
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Old Mar 10, 2013, 09:49 AM
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USA, LA, Broussard
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dth7 View Post
Thanks guys, I assume you get a significant performance boost. I brushed some med CA around the wing saddle area just to help reduce crushing from mounting and removing the wings. Can't think of much else to do until I fly it. Might order a new tube. The stock is a bit soft. I put a Sp 6200 Rx with a satellite in this just for giggles. Had to carve out on the belly behind the servos to mount it, then covered with white tape. I think I'll enjoy messing with the crow, camber and reflex. Had to write myself notes since all the switches are different than my standard setups for D/R, etc.
I'll be curious to see if cracks develop where the CA transitions to foam. The flex of foam is the secret to its durability. Stiffening an area transfers the shock to the end of the stiffener, effectively concentrating the shock at one point.

The foam "spreads" the load of a shock by flexing.
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Old Mar 11, 2013, 01:10 AM
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Originally Posted by JumpySticks View Post
I'll be curious to see if cracks develop where the CA transitions to foam. The flex of foam is the secret to its durability. Stiffening an area transfers the shock to the end of the stiffener, effectively concentrating the shock at one point.

The foam "spreads" the load of a shock by flexing.
I'm not anticipating it doing much as I used Med to just be a surface treatment. I didn't want it to penetrate too deep for the reason you point out. It was a feasible alternative to taping it. We'll see!
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Old Mar 11, 2013, 06:35 PM
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Canada, BC, Aldergrove
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Well here we go again.. Help is needed again.

Guys,
Well I started over, redownloaded the RP program for the DX8. All control surfaces moved in the proper directions.

I set the control surfaces up mechanically in neutral when the radio was set up in AUX2, position1, adjusting the clevises. So far so good.

The values I got for the control surfaces were;

Flaps
0 = neutral both left & right
1 = left 15 mm, right 15 mm
2 = left 25 mm, right 30 mm

I do not know how to fix this.

Left aileron
15 mm up / 10 mm down
Using Travel adjustment changed to
15 mm up / 11 mm down
Note: 11 mm down was the farthest I could move it 150%.

Right aileron
17 mm up / 15 mm down
Using Travel adjustment changed to
15 mm up / 11 mm down
Note: only 11 mm down because of left aileron limit.

I am not sure how I could change the limits when you have reached max.

Here is the rest of it.

Reflex
Left ail - 4 mm
Left flap - 2 mm
Right ail - 4 mm
Right flap - 3 mm

Camber
Left ail - 3 mm
Left flap - 3 mm
Right ail - 4 mm
Right flap - 2 mm

Crow
Flaps @ 1 = left ail 6 mm, right ail 8 mm
Flaps @ 2 = left ail 21 mm, right ail 27 mm

I phoned Horizon and they said to go into the mixes, to get the control surfaces lined up.

Guys I do not know anything about programming mixes. Anyone know where I could turn to give me a hint about fixing the control surfaces.

Thanks,
Robin
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Old Mar 11, 2013, 08:54 PM
Tossing planes into the snow
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Originally Posted by YelKiteFlyer View Post
Guys I do not know anything about programming mixes. Anyone know where I could turn to give me a hint about fixing the control surfaces.
I don't have a DX8, but I also ran into this problem and eventually found the solution. Before you even start programming, you need to get the servo arms at the same angles left and right. Mine did not come that way out of the box, and probably yours didn't either. I would try temporarily binding it to another memory slot that has simple generic settings. (a blank channel)

Then with the sticks centered, compare the angles of the two flap servo arms, and move one if necessary so they are both the same. Don't use the radio to move it but take the arm off the spline and rotate it. Then do the same with the 2 aileron servo arms. All 4 of them won't be at the same angle, but the two pairs should be the same. Once you have 2 pairs of arms that are even on both sides, adjust the clevises for neutral throw. Then apply the programming and it should work out better.

Maybe you already did that, but I thought I would run it by you just in case. When they assemble these planes, they don't take a lot of care to make sure the servo arms are properly placed on the splines.
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Old Mar 11, 2013, 10:45 PM
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Canada, BC, Aldergrove
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Originally Posted by Jovanx View Post
I don't have a DX8, but I also ran into this problem and eventually found the solution. Before you even start programming, you need to get the servo arms at the same angles left and right. Mine did not come that way out of the box, and probably yours didn't either. I would try temporarily binding it to another memory slot that has simple generic settings. (a blank channel)

Then with the sticks centered, compare the angles of the two flap servo arms, and move one if necessary so they are both the same. Don't use the radio to move it but take the arm off the spline and rotate it. Then do the same with the 2 aileron servo arms. All 4 of them won't be at the same angle, but the two pairs should be the same. Once you have 2 pairs of arms that are even on both sides, adjust the clevises for neutral throw. Then apply the programming and it should work out better.

Maybe you already did that, but I thought I would run it by you just in case. When they assemble these planes, they don't take a lot of care to make sure the servo arms are properly placed on the splines.
Damn, I have to start over again! I should have known I missed step 1! And if you miss the first step everything after is a useless mess.

Here we go again...
Robin
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Old Mar 12, 2013, 07:28 AM
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United States, MA, Southbridge
Joined Feb 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jovanx View Post
I don't have a DX8, but I also ran into this problem and eventually found the solution. Before you even start programming, you need to get the servo arms at the same angles left and right. Mine did not come that way out of the box, and probably yours didn't either. I would try temporarily binding it to another memory slot that has simple generic settings. (a blank channel)

Then with the sticks centered, compare the angles of the two flap servo arms, and move one if necessary so they are both the same. Don't use the radio to move it but take the arm off the spline and rotate it. Then do the same with the 2 aileron servo arms. All 4 of them won't be at the same angle, but the two pairs should be the same. Once you have 2 pairs of arms that are even on both sides, adjust the clevises for neutral throw. Then apply the programming and it should work out better.

Maybe you already did that, but I thought I would run it by you just in case. When they assemble these planes, they don't take a lot of care to make sure the servo arms are properly placed on the splines.
And I should add that the splines will probably not line up exactly either so you probably need to adjust one or the other slightly with the subtrim to get them lined up perfectly. THEN line up the surface to center using the clevis adjustment. Now you are starting from zero and things will be the same for both sides as you program the throws and mixes
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Old Mar 12, 2013, 10:43 AM
Tossing planes into the snow
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Originally Posted by coreman View Post
And I should add that the splines will probably not line up exactly either so you probably need to adjust one or the other slightly with the subtrim to get them lined up perfectly. THEN line up the surface to center using the clevis adjustment. Now you are starting from zero and things will be the same for both sides as you program the throws and mixes
Good point! That should really fine-tune it. I had to chuckle when I read that HH suggested he use mixes to try to fix the sloppy assembly of the plane. Say no evil...
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Old Mar 12, 2013, 10:53 AM
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Good point! That should really fine-tune it. I had to chuckle when I read that HH suggested he use mixes to try to fix the sloppy assembly of the plane. Say no evil...
it's always difficult when the planes are assembled by a non-modeler and the servos aren't properly centered before the arms get attached. It takes a certain level of experience to understand the geometry of the linkages to get the same movement out of the servos on both wings. Recently I have heard people complain that we are still dealing with rotary output servos but when you look at the hinge line, the horn is truly a rotary device as well so you SHOULD get more linear deflection IF the linkage is perpendicular and adjusted correctly
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Old Mar 12, 2013, 11:11 AM
Drifting off the reservation..
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USA, LA, Broussard
Joined Jan 2011
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Originally Posted by coreman View Post
it's always difficult when the planes are assembled by a non-modeler and the servos aren't properly centered before the arms get attached. It takes a certain level of experience to understand the geometry of the linkages to get the same movement out of the servos on both wings. Recently I have heard people complain that we are still dealing with rotary output servos but when you look at the hinge line, the horn is truly a rotary device as well so you SHOULD get more linear deflection IF the linkage is perpendicular and adjusted correctly
Just to be clear, changing the servo arms is for those wanting to program the aileron differential. The plane comes with mechanical differential, which is why the arms are angled forward when the plane is delivered. It's not factory laziness unless they are not even.

Just thought I would point that out for those like me who are satisfied with the stock mechanical differential configuration.
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