Originally Posted by 600Bob

Yes my cutoff switch is on the TX. I launch with throttle on the left stick then switch the motor off and turn on crow which is also on the left stick. And as I mentioned, the only time I hear the beeping is when it's close like when landing so it doesn't bother me.

Hmmm. Maybe that is something that is specific to CC ESC's. I also have a throttle cut switch on my TX, and I use it whenever I plug in a battery. It doesn't matter what position the switch is in when the battery is connected, but I still get the same sequence of beeps. That is... one initial beep followed by 3 beeps to indicate 3 cells, and then the final doo-dl-do to indicate the throttle is armed (even when the switch is set to the cut position). After that, there are no more beeps.

Here:
http://www.cxndesigns.com/radiancameramounts.html
Though it is not that hard to make your own. I found that pitching the motor up (towards the nose) about 12 degrees minimizes nose-down effect.

Originally Posted by flohio117

Man I can't find where I found that pusher mod at anymore. It was black and looks like it was Cnc made. It pushed into the top of the foam, then it was glued around the edges

hey guys.

quick question

does anyone elses rad pro like to tuck at high speeds?

i love the sound of a fast glider flyby, but too much speed and mine wants to nose down!

Originally Posted by socommk23

hey guys.

quick question

does anyone elses rad pro like to tuck at high speeds?

i love the sound of a fast glider flyby, but too much speed and mine wants to nose down!

Tucking is usually caused when te CG is too far aft requiring the elevator to be trimmed down for straight and level flight. As soon as you point the nose down to gain speed, the increased speed sees the down elevator and wala a tuck. Move the CG forward and readjust elevator trim until the tuck goes away.

Tuck can also be caused by improper decalage where the horizontal stabilizer acts like down trim on the elevator. This requires adjusting the horizontal stabilizer to be parralel with the bottom of the wing.

High speed passes are beyond the normal expected speed range of a thermaling glider. Setting up for speed without tucks will dimminish the ability of the glider to visually indicate entering and exitng lift conditions. The choice is yours.

Dave F
>< *>

Originally Posted by socommk23

i love the sound of a fast glider flyby, but too much speed and mine wants to nose down!

I love that sound too, and there are no problems with tucking after doing some stiffening mods. The CG is back to almost the neutral point, and in a 45 degree dive test it takes hundreds of feet of vertical to gradually pull itself out. The flexible stock wing spar allows the wings to fold under and that might have something to do with the washout. A CF spar fixes that, and also makes the ailerons more responsive.

Also, the elevator is a little wimpy at high speeds due to fuselage flex and due to the narrow waist between the two halves of the elevator. There are fixes for those as well. You don't have to give up any thermal performance or add any weight to make this plane fly a lot better. If you are doing anything other than gentle soaring, the CF wing spar is a must.

Not sure about the park zone esc but the castle creation ones will beep if the batt is connected but you are not requesting a throttle input, this reminds you that the batt is connected, also handy if trying to locate a plane lost in the woods

Thanks for that info Westwind. It completely clears up the confusion. EFlite and PZ ESC's don't do that. Is that a programmable option or is it hard wired?

Originally Posted by Jovanx

I love that sound too, and there are no problems with tucking after doing some stiffening mods. The CG is back to almost the neutral point, and in a 45 degree dive test it takes hundreds of feet of vertical to gradually pull itself out. The flexible stock wing spar allows the wings to fold under and that might have something to do with the washout. A CF spar fixes that, and also makes the ailerons more responsive.

Also, the elevator is a little wimpy at high speeds due to fuselage flex and due to the narrow waist between the two halves of the elevator. There are fixes for those as well. You don't have to give up any thermal performance or add any weight to make this plane fly a lot better. If you are doing anything other than gentle soaring, the CF wing spar is a must.

this is with a solid carbon fibre rod and small stiffening rods at the back too

Where is your CG located? What happens if you do a standard "dive test"? Put it in a 45 degree dive and then release the sticks. Does it come out of the dive by itself or does it tuck?

OOps forgot to mention...before you do the dive test the elevator has to be trimmed to fly hands free without porpoising.

Originally Posted by Jovanx

Where is your CG located? What happens if you do a standard "dive test"? Put it in a 45 degree dive and then release the sticks. Does it come out of the dive by itself or does it tuck?

OOps forgot to mention...before you do the dive test the elevator has to be trimmed to fly hands free without porpoising.

it flys hands free. put it in a dive and it speeds up n tucks.
CoG is where its set from the box.

Originally Posted by socommk23

it flys hands free. put it in a dive and it speeds up n tucks.
CoG is where its set from the box.

It's sounding like your Pro flies just like my standard Radian. After all the stories I heard about it wanting to loop at max throttle, mine wanted to dive and I had to pull back on the stick to keep it out of the dirt. The Pro flies similar to the way others fly.

One more question...now that you have it trimmed to fly hands free...is there any elevator trim required? Up, down, or neutral.

Yeah, sounds like it's tail heavy.
CG figure quoted in the manual is just a guide to me. Start from there and adjust according to flight tests

Originally Posted by Jovanx

It's sounding like your Pro flies just like my standard Radian. After all the stories I heard about it wanting to loop at max throttle, mine wanted to dive and I had to pull back on the stick to keep it out of the dirt. The Pro flies similar to the way others fly.

One more question...now that you have it trimmed to fly hands free...is there any elevator trim required? Up, down, or neutral.

the trim is very nearly neutral. 3 clicks of up as i remember.

the thing is...the other day i checked the decalage setting....and it looks correct to me, as in its neutral. i also added some weight on the tail for the CoG as per radiocarbonart sugests.....it flew great until it slowed down then stalled all the time. i reduced the weight and kept trying it out.
its only happy at box setting, but that just tucks when i wanna go from thermal to thermal.

Originally Posted by socommk23

this is with a solid carbon fibre rod and small stiffening rods at the back too

Hello, I'm about to start the mods on a new Radian Pro. First foam glider. This is a long thread, could someone point me to the mods or just tell me the size CF you guys are using for the wing, fuse and tail please? Do I need a CF wing tube as well or just remove the FG and replace with CF?
Thanks much.