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Old Feb 03, 2013, 01:11 PM
fly 1 day, repair the next 3
Myko's Avatar
United States, CA, San Mateo
Joined Dec 2012
163 Posts
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Originally Posted by Jovanx View Post
If the wind is right, it doesn't take a very big hill to have lots of fun. Good luck with that new place. What kind of mod are you thinking of making to the rudder?
I seen a thread here where a piece of ply is inserted in the rudder section.
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Old Feb 03, 2013, 01:52 PM
Tossing planes into the snow
Canada, BC, Smithers
Joined Nov 2011
3,169 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Myko View Post
I seen a thread here where a piece of ply is inserted in the rudder section.
A better method has been found to increase the torsional and lateral stability of the rear fuselage. It was not my idea but it was a good one. The fiberglass fuselage "stiffener" is removed from the underside of the fuse and replaced with a thin-walled CF tube (arrow shaft). This mod alone will dramatically improve the effectiveness of the elevator and rudder without adding weight. The addition of 2 CF skewers into the VS enhances the effect. Here is my version...

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...&postcount=174

This method is more effective than using plywood, because the stiffness is carried forward to the thicker part of the fuselage.
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Old Feb 04, 2013, 01:20 AM
fly 1 day, repair the next 3
Myko's Avatar
United States, CA, San Mateo
Joined Dec 2012
163 Posts
Thats great info and looks like a easier mod to boot. But one other thing. I am confused as to what the proper horn to arm position is for maximum throw for the ailerons. I have both horns and arms in the furthest outmost holes. Will this give me maximum travel? I am concerned with the lack of responce I was getting with the shaft located at the innermost part of the servo arm.
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Old Feb 04, 2013, 01:25 AM
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Joined Jun 2012
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new aerial video shot sunday

Aerial Video Ohlone College 02/03/2013 (12 min 16 sec)
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Old Feb 04, 2013, 01:26 AM
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United States, OR, Canby
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Maximum throw is outermost hole on servo and inner most hole on control surface. It also requires the most torque from the servo.
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Old Feb 04, 2013, 01:41 AM
fly 1 day, repair the next 3
Myko's Avatar
United States, CA, San Mateo
Joined Dec 2012
163 Posts
Thanks Bob. I have some tower pro 9 g servos. Do you think that will give me more travel and be better than the stock ones?
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Old Feb 04, 2013, 02:16 AM
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They would only give you more travel if the arms are longer. I bought my RP used and never even looked at the stock servos so I don't know if the Tower Pro have more or less torque, if they are equal to or greater they should be fine. Mine is stock and the arms are setup the way I described seems to work fine for me.
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Old Feb 04, 2013, 04:30 AM
Seeker of Thermals
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United States, MT, Kalispell
Joined Aug 2004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by foamyflyerr View Post
new aerial video shot sunday

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oGklIfNZFFo
Very nice video, foamy. Much better perspective than shooting straight down at the ground, don't you think?

--
Greg
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Old Feb 04, 2013, 04:38 AM
Seeker of Thermals
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United States, MT, Kalispell
Joined Aug 2004
667 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Myko View Post
Thanks Bob. I have some tower pro 9 g servos. Do you think that will give me more travel and be better than the stock ones?
Myko, the Radian Pro uses 9g digital metal gear servos for the flaps, and regular 9g analog nylon gear servos everywhere else. That buzz you hear when it's sitting there idling is the digital servos. Digital servos are known for this, apparently? I haven't heard of many problems with the stock servos, so I wouldn't replace them unless you strip the gears somehow.

As Bob replied, your Tower Pro servos will give you about the same amount of angular movement as the stock servos. The only way to get more travel to the push rods is to use a longer servo arm.

--
Greg
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Old Feb 04, 2013, 11:30 AM
fly 1 day, repair the next 3
Myko's Avatar
United States, CA, San Mateo
Joined Dec 2012
163 Posts
Thanks for the clarity guys. I will take your advice and see how the changes affect the glider. All I know is, the way I had the settings, the flight was really boring. A test flight will be done today.
Ps. 101 posts! Yay.
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Old Feb 04, 2013, 10:33 PM
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Originally Posted by botulism View Post
Very nice video, foamy. Much better perspective than shooting straight down at the ground, don't you think?

--
Greg
Thanks Greg. I definitely like the side perspective. Next I am going to do a video with the same prespective on my Foamy 3D plane a Techone SU-31.
Should be cool being able to see those ailerons being yanked around while its going through a blender or a hammerhead move.
That and I am going to add on a second camera facing forward and blend both videos together.
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Old Feb 04, 2013, 11:44 PM
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United States, UT, Provo
Joined Sep 2012
50 Posts
new motor

So I bought a new motor for the pro and it doesn't have the flat area for the set screw what can I do to ensure the prop will stay on? Could I dremmel a flat area or would that make it wobble? I appreciate any help I really want to maiden my new plane but not before I get this issue resolved thanks!
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Old Feb 05, 2013, 12:13 AM
Tossing planes into the snow
Canada, BC, Smithers
Joined Nov 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by muhkaydenz View Post
So I bought a new motor for the pro and it doesn't have the flat area for the set screw what can I do to ensure the prop will stay on? Could I dremmel a flat area or would that make it wobble? I appreciate any help I really want to maiden my new plane but not before I get this issue resolved thanks!
I would say go for it man. There is no more reason to get a wobble from your man-made flat spot, as there is for the flat spot on the stock motor shaft.
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Old Feb 05, 2013, 12:14 AM
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United States, CO, Lakewood
Joined Jan 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by muhkaydenz View Post
So I bought a new motor for the pro and it doesn't have the flat area for the set screw what can I do to ensure the prop will stay on? Could I dremmel a flat area or would that make it wobble? I appreciate any help I really want to maiden my new plane but not before I get this issue resolved thanks!
It's ok to file or Dremel a flat on your shaft. People seem to be about equally split around here as to which prop adapter attachment method they like. Some like the set screw method, others use a collet. In the case of my RP, I have gone to a collet type spinner as I am better able to monitor it's blade attachment screws without disassembling the entire prop/spinner unit.

I use locktited set screws against a filed flat on pinion gears on my helicopters, but that's not quite the same proposition.

--Jason
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Old Feb 05, 2013, 12:45 AM
Gopher huntin' stick jockey
turboparker's Avatar
East Bethel, MN USA
Joined Jul 2009
12,478 Posts
Sim-soaring

No soaring wx around here. I recently upgraded from RF 5 to RF 6.5, and I've been playing around with various sailplanes at Thermal Park, using the wind vectors to help figure out what's happening upstairs. Very interesting, indeed! I also decided to try the DS Ridgeline site. Holy crap! I managed to get the Shuriken Sloper w/heavy ballast up to 200 MPH, but it would break if I kept going. So I tried the 3m Mistrel w/heavy ballast. I had it up to well over 300 MPH for a couple of minutes a few times - and I didn't even break it! I actually got a mini-adrenaline rush, and it was only a sim! I assume that DSing must be a lot harder than that in real life.

A couple of questions for the experienced glider guys on here: How accurate is RF when it comes to modeling thermal soaring conditions? Anyone ever try DSing in RF? If so, how realistic is it?

Joel
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