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Old Dec 24, 2012, 07:42 PM
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United States, FL, Port St Lucie
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Originally Posted by Nam Lemmi View Post
Well I repaired the Radian Pro and took it for a test flight last night. Did a dive test and she would not pull out of the dive. Nosed right into the ground.

My dive was fairly steep but the elevator did nothing. I can't stop thinking that maybe crow or flaps might have helped pop the nose up. Any suggestions on what to do in that situation?

That's 2 crashes now with the RP. Really not sure wether to repair the RP or spend the money on buying another Radian.
If your used to flying warbirds or sport planes like I am, I have crashed my RP twice now trying to pull maneuvers that my warbird would easily do. I still have So much to learn with my RP, but 2 things I have learned the hard way is it don't recover well from steep banks or steep dives especially under motor power. I don't want to activate the motor on mine unless its a "have to" situation. I'd fix it again and just try to keep it relatively flat in the air and go slow with it.
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Old Dec 24, 2012, 10:16 PM
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United States, CO, Lakewood
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Originally Posted by Nam Lemmi View Post
Well I repaired the Radian Pro and took it for a test flight last night. Did a dive test and she would not pull out of the dive. Nosed right into the ground.

My dive was fairly steep but the elevator did nothing. I can't stop thinking that maybe crow or flaps might have helped pop the nose up. Any suggestions on what to do in that situation?
I got a tip here that has saved me a few times when in a seemingly unrecoverable dive. Yaw that sucker. Yes, lots of rudder... you want to point a wingtip somewhere towards the ground, then roll it upright. Get the fuselage somewhat parallel to the ground with rudder, then roll the wings level. Might help to practice this 3 mistakes up before having to do it in combat. Ask the woman who does my laundry how I know.

Dumping the flaps would certainly have slowed things down and, depending on your setup, could also have produced a pitch change.

I would then check that your elevator servo is not stripped. And check the elevator for cracks or excessive flex. And pushrods binding up.

Nothing worse than a dive into the ground that could have been prevented by a slightly obsessive preflight. And I hope it was an unpowered dive test. Just sayin.

--Jason
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Old Dec 25, 2012, 12:33 AM
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United States, TN, Columbia
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I had a similar experience. On post mortem I discovered the elevator servo was stripped. I rebuilt my RP with real servos and like it much better now.
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Last edited by sdstick; Dec 25, 2012 at 10:57 AM.
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Old Dec 25, 2012, 03:10 AM
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United States, MA, Southbridge
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Originally Posted by sdstick View Post
I had a similar experience. On post mortem I discovered the elevator servo was striped. I rebuilt my RP with real servos and like it much better now.
Yeah, I was thinking servo pushrod flex or overloading the elevator servo. Flex in the control horn area or the mount of the servo is also something to look for. Try to remember to try high rates also. I have seen a lot of guys lose planes because their low rates weren't up to the task of recovery from a bad attitude and they never think to flip the switch. but a lot of it is gut reaction and excessive rates can just as easily get you into more trouble. You generally have 20-30 seconds at most and making the right snap (pun intended) decision is the key. Postmortem it's easy to get into the woulda, coulda, shoulda mode
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Old Dec 25, 2012, 08:12 AM
Somewhere lost in Texas
United States, TX, Flower Mound
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On post mortem I discovered the elevator servo was striped
That also happened to me a couple of fuses ago... So I replaced the rudder and elevator servos with Hitec HS-85MGs and the wing servos with HS=5065MGs I also replaced the crappy push-rods with Ny-rods. Along with some well placed CF, moving the CG back to around 78mm, and a replacement motor/prop/spinner has transformed it into a very responsive plane..
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Old Dec 25, 2012, 11:58 AM
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United Kingdom, England, Aldershot
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Can I take from the last couple of posts that it would be a good idea to make some upgrades to the out of the box glider? I am still undecided regarding which glider to get (Radian or Pro) but it would seem that some of the standard components might need beefing up.
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Old Dec 25, 2012, 01:12 PM
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When they build a plane like this they are more after price point then shear performance level.... so they are not going to put all top shelf components in an airplane. They put together a nice package that YES by all means it can be improved on at an attractive price point. My advice is if you have some good experience get a pro.. you may get bored quick otherwise. Finally but perhaps most important... Stop worrying so much about which glider to fly and spend time studying thermals.
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Old Dec 25, 2012, 01:20 PM
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United Kingdom, England, Aldershot
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Originally Posted by sdstick View Post
When they build a plane like this they are more after price point then shear performance level.... so they are not going to put all top shelf components in an airplane. They put together a nice package that YES by all means it can be improved on at an attractive price point. My advice is if you have some good experience get a pro.. you may get bored quick otherwise. Finally but perhaps most important... Stop worrying so much about which glider to fly and spend time studying thermals.
Thanks for the prompt reply. The Pro is probably what I will end up with and a few upgrades will be carried out. As for studying thermals....... in the UK that will be hard to do...... Once again, thanks.
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Old Dec 25, 2012, 01:44 PM
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United States, MA, Southbridge
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Originally Posted by TheOldHobbit View Post
Thanks for the prompt reply. The Pro is probably what I will end up with and a few upgrades will be carried out. As for studying thermals....... in the UK that will be hard to do...... Once again, thanks.
The only upgrade I did out of the box was to replace the ESC (700mah BEC) with one that had a better BEC in it. I went with a 40amp Plush since I expected to upgrade the prop at one point (which I later did) and would draw closer to 25amps on launch. Is this necessary? probably not but I wanted to feel confident that a stalled servo wouldn't give me a brownout

your thermals are installed in the nose
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Old Dec 25, 2012, 03:29 PM
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I assure you there are ample thermals in the UK. Here is a article written in the UK about RC thermal chasing in the UK. The Radian Pro is definitely a good thermal ship.
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Old Dec 25, 2012, 03:36 PM
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I have my stock ESC, an 11x8 Aeronaut and 45C 1300mah 3S. I am getting 29.9 amps and 318 watts... good power for good launch.

I would recommend you change the elevator servo at least. Mine stripped out and I lost RP 1. I rebuilt with Hitec HS-65HB servos on the elevator and the rudder. I will eventually change them all out…. The RP feels a TON better with the 2 new servos and it is a nice feeling to have a more robust setup.
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Old Dec 25, 2012, 07:15 PM
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USA, LA, Broussard
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Originally Posted by TheOldHobbit View Post
Can I take from the last couple of posts that it would be a good idea to make some upgrades to the out of the box glider? I am still undecided regarding which glider to get (Radian or Pro) but it would seem that some of the standard components might need beefing up.
It flies and thermals fine out of the box. I think the consensus is that you should fly it a while stock to get the feel of the plane. Then modify as desired. If you modify right away you will not know if you have made an improvement. Need to establish a baseline in any experiment, right?
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Old Dec 25, 2012, 09:57 PM
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South Africa, WC, Cape Town
Joined Oct 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheOldHobbit
Can I take from the last couple of posts that it would be a good idea to make some upgrades to the out of the box glider? I am still undecided regarding which glider to get (Radian or Pro) but it would seem that some of the standard components might need beefing up.
Hi, I was in your place not too long ago.
Modifications such as beefing up are not needed to start with.
What you should do is take the rudder and elevator push-rods out, sand all the black stuff off them and make sure that they don't bind in their guide tubes.
this is a common problem with the stock RP.


Other than that, just check that all surfaces move correctly and are mechanically trimmed to neutral then go fly it.

Brgds,

Danny
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Old Dec 25, 2012, 10:09 PM
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Just keep an eye on the elevator servo and don't go doing any deep dives with sharp pull outs. The RP flys amazingly well for a low cost Z foam airframe... and it is very easy to resurrect after deep impact. Free up the pushrods for sure... the servo upgrade on mine really made a nice difference. I exchanged the elevator and rudder servos... Hitec HS-65HB servos really made it feel much better. I am going to exchange the others soon.
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Old Dec 26, 2012, 11:24 AM
Tossing planes into the snow
Canada, BC, Smithers
Joined Nov 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheOldHobbit View Post
Thanks for the prompt reply. The Pro is probably what I will end up with and a few upgrades will be carried out. As for studying thermals....... in the UK that will be hard to do...... Once again, thanks.
I also live in a place that cannot be described as "thermal heaven". There are thermals everywhere, even in Canada in the winter, but they are not as strong or steady as in some other places in the world. I would say...don't give up on the Radian as an option yet. Spend some time talking to the guys on the Radian thread. Anybody who has both of these planes will tell you the standard Radian is more able to take advantage of weak thermals than the Pro is, simply because it is lighter and has a lower sink rate.

Jumpysticks' advice on mods is dead on. Fly now, do them later.
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