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The RP easily handles 10-15 MPH winds. Just be sure to launch & land directly into the wind, and be sure to keep the wings level during the landing. If it's gusty & turbulent, bring her in clean & land a bit faster. If you usually fly with a neutral or near-neutral CG in calm conditions, move it forward a bit for better wind-penetration. In stronger winds, use a higher-capacity pack to add some ballast.
Joel |
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Latest blog entry: Eflite UMX Sbach 3D on 3s - 2300Kv/5043...
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Don't turn downwind. Fly crosswind and then turn into the wind 180 degrees and then fly crosswind and turn upwind again. Fly in figure 8s this way and always keep it going upwind
And actually, depending on the wind, you keep the nose turned upwind so your ground track stays horizontal so maybe your turns are closer to 120 degrees than a full 180 |
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Canada, BC, Smithers
Joined Nov 2011
2,329 Posts
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Thank you for your efforts Moby58. The strange thing is that the basic DSM2 receivers in the Parkzone micros have this ability, even though they don't make a big deal about it in their documentation. I am referring to the AR6400 in the micro Corsair, and also the 3 channel receivers in the Vapor, Ember, and Mustang. If you have any of these planes, it is easy to see for yourself that it works.
I was suspecting this functionality might have been lost in the switch from DSM2 to DSMX, so I asked about it in July on the DX6i forum. There was a Spektrum representative named Andy Kunz who used to contribute to that forum and he was a great source of information. Here is his answer to my question about the possibility of using DSMX receivers in DSM2 mode in order to possibly activate that failsafe feature "It's not a function of DSMX. Different receivers have different failsafes. Just read up on which type you want and purchase appropriately. The AR6255 also has preset failsafe on all channels." |
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Joined Sep 2010
462 Posts
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1. Remain upwind of your intended landing area, at least while low and slow.
2. Add 8 to 10 oz of ballast inside the wing spar. A larger battery helps, but ballast in the wing spar is better. 3. With the programming you have in place, select FM1 (normal), flip AUX2 up (reflex) and add elevator down trim. Combine this with ballast for even better upwind penetration. 4. Fly a bit faster than usual until a second or two before touching the ground. Mild crow/flap while holding its nose low brings it right down. This allows a higher faster approach providing better control response and wider safety margin (clearing trees, fences, etc.), then drop rapidly to the ground under full control. |
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So far, I've gone through about 3 1/2 radians . . . All I'm saying is that modifications can run up your tab . .Rick |
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LI, New York, USA
Joined Mar 2003
22,120 Posts
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> FLYING IN WIND - Ballast http://www.flyesl.org/forums/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=315 You may also find these interesting Thermaling for Beginners http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=208889 BIRDS, THERMALS AND SOARING FLIGHT http://www.aerospaceweb.org/question/nature/q0253.shtml Thermal Scout – A low cost thermal detector http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1404609 |
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Thanks guys, I guess I should have been better prepared for the windy day yesterday and asked these questions before hand. Oh well live and learn, now I know. 10-15 seems to be the common wind speed around here at the time of day I have to go fly so I should probably just fix my plane to always be ready for it, and be able to change it if it happens to be calm. I had a 1300mah battery put all the way back in the hole which made the plane balance level at 77mm. Looks like bringing the CG forward a bit could help.
I don't know any way to add ballast in the wing spar, but I've got access to plenty of automotive wheel weights. I could add a 5 gram on each side under the wing spar between the plastic and foam. Would that work? I also have some 2200mah batteries, but I think they would just be too heavy all together. Once my plane started getting away from me down wind is it possible that the flimsy tail boom had something to do with the trouble I was having getting it turned back around? I don't know if it did or not, but I do know my rudder and elevator wasn't doing much for me. |
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I would fly with the heavier battery in those winds, that is what works for me.
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LI, New York, USA
Joined Mar 2003
22,120 Posts
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![]() I buy mine at Home Depot. They have a bin of smooth rod and threaded rod. I think mine is 1/4" or 5/16 smooth rod, cut to the length of the wing rod. Weighs about 5 ounces. I just slide it inside the wing rod and put the wings on as usual. Nothing else to do. Works great. I use it for slope soaring too. I can put in a thicker rod that goes to about 7 oz, I think, but I dont' find that I need it. Some people buy the thickest steel rod that will fit inside the wing rod, then make up dowel spacers and vary the mix of wood and steel to get the weight they want. That works, but too much bother for me. If I needed more weight I would just have a second rod. I cut a hole in the foam in my Radian box so the rod can slide in and be held in place. It lives in the box with the Radian so I always have it with me. SOOOO easy! |
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I will be off to Home Depot soon to look for that rod, thanks also for that info! |
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Not to mention that dreaded downwind turn....LOL. ![]()
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Joined Aug 2011
1,051 Posts
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Sat RX placement
I just bought a used Rad. Pro without RX. I have an AR8000 and an AR6115e. I was thinking of installing the AR8000 but can't find a good place for the Sat. Would it work OK if mounted on top of the ESC? Or should I just use the AR6115e?
Whadda ya think? |
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