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Old Oct 16, 2012, 08:53 AM
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coreman's Avatar
United States, MA, Southbridge
Joined Feb 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KLRico View Post
I will only fly gliders while seated in lawn chair.
That was my main criteria when I bought my Radian Pro
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Old Oct 16, 2012, 12:02 PM
Flying addicted and lovin it!
Fish99's Avatar
Canada, AB, Edmonton
Joined Jun 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KLRico View Post
I will only fly gliders while seated in lawn chair.

I love those long lasting and strong thermals, like an elevator to the sky!
LOL, I hear you. I have taken a camping chair to the local park a few times and plunked it down and just stretched out and flew for 45 minutes! Gets loads of funny comments and chats from passer's by. Just didn't have that with me at the flight station at the club field.

Marlin
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Old Oct 16, 2012, 12:50 PM
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United States, WA, Spokane
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Yeah, when I fly at the park and the plane is up nearly out of sight, it seems that most people just think I'm sleeping in my chair. LOL.
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Old Oct 16, 2012, 01:09 PM
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United States, MA, Southbridge
Joined Feb 2010
3,478 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by KLRico View Post
Yeah, when I fly at the park and the plane is up nearly out of sight, it seems that most people just think I'm sleeping in my chair. LOL.
it can be a pain in the butt when they stand in your line of sight to meet your eyes
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Old Oct 16, 2012, 09:05 PM
Tossing planes into the snow
Canada, BC, Smithers
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The man who is standing will always have the Darwinian advantage over the man who is seated in a chair.
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Old Oct 16, 2012, 09:49 PM
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Joined Aug 2011
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Mods....

Quote:
Originally Posted by coreman View Post
I think part of my problem is that I am comparing it to my open class competition ships. I just need a good glider day to see what I can get out of it. Too little data in one flight in suboptimal conditions. I was a bit surprised about the sink rate so i will throw my Robart meter on it and probably do the boom strengthening mods and get everything straight and true. it's worth 50 cents if I can get useful weight in the tail!

Oh, and I was pleased with how flat it would turn. That shows promise
Extend the ailerons to the tips. Then it will be more like a comp ship. Stock aileron responce is too slow, especially in thermal kick out.
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Old Oct 17, 2012, 08:59 AM
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United States, AL, Huntsville
Joined Jan 2011
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Originally Posted by chronodeco View Post
Extend the ailerons to the tips. Then it will be more like a comp ship. Stock aileron responce is too slow, especially in thermal kick out.
Do you have some photos showing this change?
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Old Oct 17, 2012, 12:13 PM
Drifting off the reservation..
JumpySticks's Avatar
USA, LA, Broussard
Joined Jan 2011
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Originally Posted by chronodeco View Post
Extend the ailerons to the tips. Then it will be more like a comp ship. Stock aileron responce is too slow, especially in thermal kick out.
Drag a tip and off they'll rip.
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Old Oct 17, 2012, 12:14 PM
Tossing planes into the snow
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Extending the ailerons out to the tips would be easy, and so would extending them inwards, by stealing some of the flaps. The flaps are so brutally effective, that stealing a bit probably wouldn't hurt. I was thinking of doing both of these at one point, but after putting in a stiffer wing spar, the aileron performance improved noticeably and I'm happy with the way it flies.
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Old Oct 17, 2012, 12:16 PM
Drifting off the reservation..
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USA, LA, Broussard
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jovanx View Post
Extending the ailerons out to the tips would be easy, and so would extending them inwards, by stealing some of the flaps. The flaps are so brutally effective, that stealing a bit probably wouldn't hurt. I was thinking of doing both of these at one point, but after putting in a stiffer wing spar, the aileron performance improved noticeably and I'm happy with the way it flies.
The polyhedral won't allow inward extension.

If you want more aileron surface, enlarge them 1/2 inch rearward with some clear plastic.

I think the stock ailerons are fine with the stiffer wing spar.
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Old Oct 17, 2012, 02:53 PM
Gopher huntin' stick jockey
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East Bethel, MN USA
Joined Jul 2009
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Had fun at the field yesterday. Now that I have things set up reasonably well, I spent the day attempting to find & stay in some lift. Finding lift was really easy. Staying in it was a more of a challenge, however. I've been doing a lot of reading today.....

A question for the experienced RP pilots on here - how many degrees of full-span camber should I use for weaker lift conditions? Or, put another way - what's the most camber that one should use for thermalling? (I'm assuming that there is a point where the increase in drag of adding more camber will overcome any increase in lift.)

Joel
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Last edited by turboparker; Oct 17, 2012 at 03:03 PM.
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Old Oct 17, 2012, 03:24 PM
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United States, MA, Southbridge
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Originally Posted by turboparker View Post
Had fun at the field yesterday. Now that I have things set up reasonably well, I spent the day attempting to find & stay in some lift. Finding lift was really easy. Staying in it was a more of a challenge, however. I've been doing a lot of reading today.....

A question for the experienced RP pilots on here - how many degrees of full-span camber should I use for weaker lift conditions? Or, put another way - what's the most camber that one should use for thermalling? (I'm assuming that there is a point where the increase in drag of adding more camber will overcome any increase in lift.)

Joel
it's going to depend on your wing loading and how strong the lift is. I generally droop the TE about 1/8"-3/16" and then compensate with some up/down elevator if need be. In a unpowered glider you generally put it on the throttle stick and feed in whatever it will take and then try to lock into the core of the thermal and keep the wing as flat as possible. You could probably put it on a transmitter knob but that is always bothersome as you never know if it is back to neutral once you turn it off (would have to be on a switch mix to the knob). If the lift is strong, you can put in quite a bit. you can also use high rate elevator to help keep it climbing and you can use elevator to flap mixing also on the switch. There are lots of ways and it really is personal preference and you have to get a feel for what works. The problem is there is no "standard" thermal and each one will be different and you need to watch your plane and see how it is reacting. One of the reasons gliders "indicate" thermals by going faster is that the tail gets raised so you are "diving" through the thermal and so feeding in elevator to level it off will actually cause you to climb with the rising column of lift

Later: Sounds like the day you flew was a good day to do testing in that you had a recurring cycle of lift. Those days are nice because the thermals tend to be more uniform and in similar sections of the sky so you can adjust and test and repeat
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Old Oct 17, 2012, 04:53 PM
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I have found that one of the biggest issues with the foamies I've flown is that the control surfaces are not rigid enough. I don't think that the overall size is the major problem. I have used Skyloft fabric to stiffen some and replaced others with balsa and have found the controls much more responsive in every case.
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Old Oct 17, 2012, 07:47 PM
Drifting off the reservation..
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USA, LA, Broussard
Joined Jan 2011
2,296 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by turboparker View Post
Had fun at the field yesterday. Now that I have things set up reasonably well, I spent the day attempting to find & stay in some lift. Finding lift was really easy. Staying in it was a more of a challenge, however. I've been doing a lot of reading today.....

A question for the experienced RP pilots on here - how many degrees of full-span camber should I use for weaker lift conditions? Or, put another way - what's the most camber that one should use for thermalling? (I'm assuming that there is a point where the increase in drag of adding more camber will overcome any increase in lift.)

Joel
I think 1/8" is plenty of camber. I don't think it's a good idea to put camber on a proportional control because you just don't know how much you are adding.

Mine is on a three way switch. Forward is 1/8" reflex, neutral is neutral, and back is 1/8" camber. That's about the thickness of the trailing edge.

If you have the flaps on the throttle lever or other proportional flap control, you can always add a tad more flap to increase camber on the inboard part of the wing.

I use camber sparingly because the stock wing is really a good design at most speeds.
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Old Oct 17, 2012, 07:57 PM
Gopher huntin' stick jockey
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East Bethel, MN USA
Joined Jul 2009
11,636 Posts
Thanks for the info guys!

I already have proportional camber/reflex assigned to the right-hand slider on the rear of my 10CHP, so it's very easy to operate & feel the position. The center detent is neutral, while full down is 3/8" TE droop, and full up is 1/8" aileron-only reflex. I have proportional flaps set up on the left-hand rear slider, and crow set up on a switch. I was just wondering if I may be using too much camber for the conditions. I just rechecked my camber setup menu, and found that I had forgotten to add down-trim with camber. That explains things! No wonder I had to crank in so much down-trim when using camber.

Joel
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Last edited by turboparker; Oct 17, 2012 at 08:05 PM.
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