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Old Jul 26, 2012, 06:45 PM
Drifting off the reservation..
JumpySticks's Avatar
USA, LA, Broussard
Joined Jan 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eastcoast78 View Post
Yeah, that is the one I have. I think I'll try mode 1, with one 1800ma battery. I still don't get how this will work, but we'll see. Hope I don't fry the receiver!

If it does work, It looks like the esc will cut power to the switch when the voltage hits the low limit. I still don't see how but I'm not so hot with electronics.
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Old Jul 26, 2012, 06:50 PM
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United States, CO, Lakewood
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JumpySticks View Post
Yes, the switch has a servo lead which I will run to channel 7. But if the power leads are spliced into the esc output wires, they won't get any juice when the throttle is off, will they? If there was juice there then the motor would be turning....? The esc has its own lead attached to the throttle channel, and when the throttle is off, it seems to me that no juice should be coming through the hot leads out of the esc....

I guess I will just wire it according to instructions, treating the esc like a bec, and see what happens. IMHO I'll get nothing when the throttle is off.
It seems to me that your receiver is getting power from somewhere, even when the motor is not running. It's coming from the red and black wires from the plug that is in the throttle channel...

If you have a multimeter, check to see if you have voltage on those wires when the battery is plugged in. You unplug the esc from the receiver and probe it...

--Jason
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Last edited by Jasong911; Jul 26, 2012 at 06:53 PM. Reason: spelling
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Old Jul 26, 2012, 06:57 PM
Drifting off the reservation..
JumpySticks's Avatar
USA, LA, Broussard
Joined Jan 2011
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OK, facepalm!!!!!

I was thinking the red wires coming out of the bec on the diagram were the wires to the motor....sorry. I forgot there are two sets of large wires coming out of the esc, one set coming from the battery and the other set going to the motor. Duh....

So the switch splices into the battery side of the esc circuit. The "load" on the schematic is just the lights, not the motor. That's what threw me. Think I get it now. Sorry for the confusion.
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Old Jul 26, 2012, 07:39 PM
Drifting off the reservation..
JumpySticks's Avatar
USA, LA, Broussard
Joined Jan 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eastcoast78 View Post
what they mean by BEC is your ESC. On/off switches usually have a servo lead? the only way the lights would go on/off with Thr input is if the switch lead were plugged into the THR channel. So unless you Y harness in the Thr channel, and run your switch and esc lead into the Y would the lights go off with Thr input.
I tested it with the flap channel. when i was trying to set up without a spare channel. it worked, as the flap is a 3 pos switch.
flaps up, light is on. flaps mid position flaps stay on. Flaps Full lights would go off.

it took a bit of adjusting with the flap EPA's so i knew when i moved the Mock set up over to the RP the flaps would be messed up! So i didn't bother. the separate battery is more covenant.

The switch only taps into your esc to get power. whichever port you plug the switches lead into should activate the switch.
thats how the one above works.
OK. Now that the face is back out of the palm, what gauge wire do you run to your lights? Also, what do you use to splice the different color light strips together? I have some thick copper foil. Thinking of cutting some little squares of that foil and soldering the squares to the plus and minus sides of each strip to connect them. Pretty neat how you can cut the strips and make different color combinations.

I had also ordered three new turnigy 1300ma batteries 25-50c rated to replace my old stock parkzone batteries. They were puffing and getting hot due to the extra load from the prop upgrade. Figure the higher c rating should work better.
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Old Jul 26, 2012, 07:46 PM
Drifting off the reservation..
JumpySticks's Avatar
USA, LA, Broussard
Joined Jan 2011
2,296 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eastcoast78 View Post
But for me, running on its own batt. a full charged 500mah 3S gets me about 30mins. I have about 2 yards of lights, when i come down batt is around 3.7v per cell.
Yeah, I figure using the 1800 ma for motor, radio and lights I'll get 20-30 minutes. Guess I can check once in a while by hitting the throttle and seeing if the motor pulses. if so, it's time to bring her down.

I expect it's hard to see obstructions, like goal posts, when flying at night. Hmmmmm. Lots to think about.
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Old Jul 26, 2012, 07:52 PM
Tossing planes into the snow
Canada, BC, Smithers
Joined Nov 2011
3,169 Posts
Stock prop - version 3

I just put a new stock prop and spinner on the RP and, wow, what a difference. I know the stock setup has a reputation for breaking, and I have been keeping a close eye on both the prop and spinner for cracks. There is no sign of damage at all, and that is after many miles of flying and landing (but no nose-breaking events). I am not crazy about adding weight to the nose of a plane that is already nose heavy, so for now I'm sticking with the stock system.

After the horror-stories I've heard, I decided to retire the prop and spinner, just for good measure, and today I put on the new one. Apparently the original version of the prop was prone to breaking, but that was before my time. I got the RP last fall and it already had the new 9.75x7.5_1 prop. The new one I installed today has an extra _1 on it. (9.75x7.5_1_1). I compared the blades with the old ones and couldn't see any difference, and concluded that the difference must be something minor, maybe a different type of plastic. The part number is PKZ1017.

Then I launched it and punched the throttle and pointed it straight up, and the difference was immediately apparent. You couldn't say it has unlimited vertical, but you could say it will go straight up for quite a distance before falling off to the side. The old one would never do that. Same motor and battery.
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Old Jul 27, 2012, 12:18 AM
Dixie Normious
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JumpySticks View Post
what gauge wire do you run to your lights?
The wire i use is some copper wire i have for wiring LEDS under my dash of the car!
Its 18ga i do believe. you could run 22 gauge easily! as there is not much current runing though it.

Also, what do you use to splice the different color light strips together? I have some thick copper foil. Thinking of cutting some little squares of that foil and soldering the squares to the plus and minus sides of each strip to connect them. Pretty neat how you can cut the strips and make different color combinations.

In theory that would work. it may be brittle, but i dont know what you mean by thick foil" how thick?
maybe if you folded it a few times in a rectangle shape about 1/2'' long that would work. i also re tin the strips with my own solder!
I have soldered to ends together with nothing before but is a PIA to do. Just have a look along your leds strips. ive noticed on some of mine there are 2 pieces tapped together. Its harder then it looks lol i think its done by a robot/factory!

All i do is cut 2 pieces of wire about a 1 '' or so. strip a 1/16th off each end and join them together that way!
thats how i joined my top leds also. at the of the bottom strip i poked a hole through the wing. feed enough wire to the top and soldered it to the top strip of LEDS

I had also ordered three new turnigy 1300ma batteries 25-50c rated to replace my old stock parkzone batteries. They were puffing and getting hot due to the extra load from the prop upgrade. Figure the higher c rating should work better.
parkzone batterys are as bad as B grade ones on HK

I do have a video of a complete walk down of how i installed the lights.
but i haven't uploaded it yet!

Im loving the golden rods. ive only done the elev so far, Rudd is next
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Old Jul 27, 2012, 12:36 AM
Zor
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Ontario,Canada
Joined Feb 2007
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Any help ?

A response to my questions would be greatly appeciated.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...ostcount=10021

Thanks,

Zor
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Old Jul 27, 2012, 12:43 AM
Dixie Normious
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zor View Post
Hi guys,

Has anyone increased the areas of the elevators and/or rudder ?

If so by how much ?
ive pretty much read every post here and i think Jumpy was the only one to experiment with it, but he did his Ailerons.Im not sure why you want to? I guess the Elev is a bit on the skinny side, but the Rudder is huge

What travel are you using for each control surfaces ?

The manual shows the factory settings where to connect the clevisses but my Radian pro had a couple of different positions out of the box.


Thanks for any information.

Zor
The different positions are installed like that for a reason. It added differantal out of the box.
I "zeroed" it out and added mine via the TX
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Old Jul 27, 2012, 09:00 AM
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United Kingdom, London
Joined Mar 2012
175 Posts
Finally found someone in the UK with stock. Have now got my hands on a Radian Pro . Will put it together tomorrow.

For those that have painted their planes - what paint have you been using? Or if you have covered it what have you used? I'm thinking of just doing the wingtips and rudder (may remove decals).

cheers
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Old Jul 27, 2012, 09:15 AM
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Joined Jun 2012
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Enjoy that Radian there cirrus I sure love mine. Such a relaxing flyer after flying the p-47 or the flat foamy yak 54 3D plane. I find myself getting out to the field an hour earlier then the other guys so I can launch it and just let it sit up there and soar all that it wants to.
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Old Jul 27, 2012, 11:11 AM
Team Horizon Hobby - Surface
Darin Jordan's Avatar
Renton
Joined Sep 2006
94 Posts
Hey Guys... I just ordered a Radian Pro from Horizon, and I have a brand new DX-8 to use with it (have a DX-7 also, but hey... )...

With 671 pages of thread here... kind of tough to search them all, and I have one simple question...

Are there any profiles available for this plane to use in the DX-8?? If so, can you provide a link?

Thanks!

Darin Jordan
Renton, WA
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Old Jul 27, 2012, 11:23 AM
Tossing planes into the snow
Canada, BC, Smithers
Joined Nov 2011
3,169 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by cirrus_uk View Post
Finally found someone in the UK with stock. Have now got my hands on a Radian Pro . Will put it together tomorrow.

For those that have painted their planes - what paint have you been using? Or if you have covered it what have you used? I'm thinking of just doing the wingtips and rudder (may remove decals).

cheers
I used Krylon Fusion H2O, which is a water-based paint and is foam safe. The decals peel off easily, unlike the ones on the PZ warbirds. There is one must-do mod before flying. Pull out the rudder and elevator control rods and sand them with fine sandpaper. For some reason, they are covered with a sticky black substance which makes your servos work way too hard and reduce resolution.
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Old Jul 27, 2012, 11:29 AM
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LI, New York, USA
Joined Mar 2003
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darin Jordan View Post
Hey Guys... I just ordered a Radian Pro from Horizon, and I have a brand new DX-8 to use with it (have a DX-7 also, but hey... )...

With 671 pages of thread here... kind of tough to search them all, and I have one simple question...

Are there any profiles available for this plane to use in the DX-8?? If so, can you provide a link?

Thanks!

Darin Jordan
Renton, WA
You can download DX7 and DX8 Radian set-ups from the Horizon Hobby site. go to the Radian and then go to support tab and look to the right side of the screen. I think that is where you find it.
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Old Jul 27, 2012, 11:35 AM
Fly it low.. and fly it fast!
Hit N Run's Avatar
United States, MA, Westport
Joined Nov 2011
1,791 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Darin Jordan View Post
Are there any profiles available for this plane to use in the DX-8?? If so, can you provide a link?

Thanks!

Darin Jordan
Renton, WA
http://www.parkzone.com/ProdInfo/Fil...20%28V2%29.pdf
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