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Old May 31, 2012, 06:08 PM
Tossing planes into the snow
Canada, BC, Smithers
Joined Nov 2011
3,067 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by alfyfanark View Post
I have a feeling the DSM2 AR600 is really Not full range in less than ideal conditions. Rx antenna was as installed at factory. Maybe the DSMX is the answer, or switch brands.
There is a video on the Spektrum website that shows you how to install an AR600 receiver and how to properly orient the antennas. What I don't get is why these RTF and BNF park flyer planes don't come with the antennas already properly oriented. At least there should be an entry in the instruction manual that says something like "Don't fly this RTF airplane until you get online and hunt down the instructions for properly placing the antennas because we didn't follow our own guidelines."
End rant.
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Old May 31, 2012, 06:23 PM
Drifting off the reservation..
JumpySticks's Avatar
USA, LA, Broussard
Joined Jan 2011
2,296 Posts
My antennae were not properly oriented when I bought my first RP, a bnf. They should be oriented 90 degrees from one another. I'm also not sure that the AR600 is full range. I bought a DX7 with the AR7000 soon after I got the first RP because I was not secure about the AR600, and because I wanted full house controls. The AR7000 has performed flawlessly, and I would recommend it for sailplanes. . We just tend to fly at longer range than a non-sailplane flyer.

I also purchased an AR7100 for another plane and it has had no glitches either
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Old Jun 01, 2012, 04:50 AM
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Desert flier's Avatar
Australia, SA, Morphett Vale
Joined Oct 2004
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A few mods to make rigging a 1min job

A few mods to make it a 1min job to go fly
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Old Jun 01, 2012, 04:23 PM
Kool Kats Fly RC!! AMA 30462
sonny1's Avatar
United States, CA, Baywood-Los Osos
Joined Feb 2009
2,788 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Desert flier View Post
A few mods to make it a 1min job to go fly
Nice transport system, I ding my RP more in transport than from flying it.

I installed servo plugs and posted pics very similar to your set up a few months back, and though quicker to assemble, no way can I get the plane together and flyable in one minute. When I pull up to the flying site it usually takes 10-15 min of assembly, pre-flight checks, (including a quick range test....every single time; a good habit to get into btw!), even with the servo plugs. Truthfully, even with the servo plugs I find assembling the RP a pain in general. If I could just leave it assembled I would, then I really could be ready to fly in one minute, (maybe).

Sonny
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Old Jun 01, 2012, 06:00 PM
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Australia, SA, Morphett Vale
Joined Oct 2004
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I used to leave mine riged but now I have only a small car and there is no way it could fit. Even in my large family size wagon it would fit but always a wrangle getting it in and out. As you said more damage in and out of the car than actualy flying the thing
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Old Jun 01, 2012, 09:28 PM
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Joined Apr 2012
19 Posts
Just A Heads Up

I also made wing connectors like Desert flier, I used sub-D connectors. See post 8983. The only difference is, I glued the connectors at the fuselage too. I WOULD NOT ADVISE THIS. Keep at least one set free to move around. With this setup mention above, the wing can flex inflight and not disconnect your aileron or flaps. I've had this happen with my setup. I lost signal to my flaps. They locked out in the down position and i was forced to land. Just thought I would put this out there so no one else has this happen to them.
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Old Jun 01, 2012, 10:41 PM
Kool Kats Fly RC!! AMA 30462
sonny1's Avatar
United States, CA, Baywood-Los Osos
Joined Feb 2009
2,788 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by jro0662 View Post
I also made wing connectors like Desert flier, I used sub-D connectors. See post 8983. The only difference is, I glued the connectors at the fuselage too. I WOULD NOT ADVISE THIS. Keep at least one set free to move around. With this setup mention above, the wing can flex inflight and not disconnect your aileron or flaps. I've had this happen with my setup. I lost signal to my flaps. They locked out in the down position and i was forced to land. Just thought I would put this out there so no one else has this happen to them.
I learned that lesson on my old Airtronics Peregrine. It had MPX plugs embedded in the wings with corresponding plugs recessed into the adjacent fuselage. I bent one pin when "plugging in" the wing, (right aileron), didn't notice it, and didn't do a thorough pre-launch check before stepping on the petal, (it was monthly contest day and I was late, so I let myself get rushed). The plane launched fine, but it wouldn't turn correctly & was just flying funky so I managed to bring it down in tall grass basically in one piece, (ie; I lucked out!). I remembered that experience when I built the harness for my RP and installed the plugs on short wires so I could be sure there was a firm connection before I cinch up the wing.

Sonny
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Old Jun 01, 2012, 11:58 PM
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Canada, AB, Calgary
Joined Sep 2006
47 Posts
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Originally Posted by Quasi_Mojo View Post
I've got everything boxed up and will be dropping it off at LHS after work for them to look at and will post their findings.
I thought I would take some time and update anybody who cares about my struggle with using the Futaba 10CAP with the Radian Pro.

I dropped the Radian Pro and Futaba Tx off at an LHS (again) Monday after work and they had it until Friday (today) until about 5:30, when I picked it up. Once again, they failed to diagnose the issue and get the pair working together. They were able to use a Spectrum DX8 and a Spectrum Rx in the RP without issues. I called them on Friday morning to make sure that they attempted to call Futaba support during their support hours in case they couldn't figure it out. I was advised that Futaba walked them through the setup and they still couldn't get it to work.

In my desperation to figure out what was wrong, I purchased a replacement receiver, an R6008HS (manual link), this time - to try instead of the R6014FS (manual link) that came with the Futaba 10CAP. I removed the 14 channel Rx and popped in the 8 channel Rx, powered on the Transmitter, then plugged in the battery on the RP. I checked the LED activity on the Rx and noticed it was blinking green (the R6014FS always only showed a solid green LED). I checked the instructions to see what the green blinking LED signified, then pressed and held the link button - and then the LED turned solid green - followed by the oh-sweet sound of the remaining three tones. My throttle had armed!!! I pushed the throttle stick up and the motor came to life (prop was removed).

So happy - but still perplexed as to why the one Rx would work and the other would not. The only thing that really stands out in the Futaba 10CAP manual is the following quote (page 20):
Quote:
Product Advisory — R6014FS Receiver
Whereas many previous receivers offered a signal output of 3.0 Volts, the latest generation of ICs has been designed to operate at lower voltages in order to increase their operational speeds. The R6014FS receiver utilizes such an IC and, as such, the nominal signal output voltage of the R6014FS receiver is 2.7 Volts.

While this variance in the output voltage will not affect most equipment in use today, it has been brought to our attention that some manufacturers’ products are not capable of operation with the lower signal voltage. That is, they will not operate below 3.0 Volts. Some examples of what we have had reported thus far include sequencers, cut-off valves, older servo designs and some recent non-Futaba digital servos.

Some battery backup devices might have difficulty with the lower operational voltages as well, although they might not appear to initially. One such device functions perfectly on the ground and during a range check, yet when the operational temperature reaches 50C (122F), the device actually requires 2.8 Volts in order to function properly. As such, the servos will cease to operate properly.

Many manufacturers are updating or refining their products to ensure compatibility with the lower operational voltages. If you have any questions about the operation of such peripheral items we strongly suggest that you contact the manufacturer directly.

If you have already purchased items which can not operate below 3.0 Volts, we suggest that you either replace the item with an updated version or utilize a device to increase the voltage accordingly. There are a number of readily available devices that may be used to increase the voltage such as ElectroDynamics’ Buffer-Amplified Interface, Duralite's Powerbox (manufactured within the last six months), EMcotec's DSPI products, Smart-Fly’s Power Expander and Powersystem, etc.
Now, I am no expert, but perhaps somebody who knows more than I can take a look at the RP ESC documentation and let me know if I am on the right track, here.
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Old Jun 02, 2012, 11:08 AM
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Joined Jan 2010
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As a Futaba user the info regarding the newer 2.7 volt receivers is scary. It seem they are saying that although connected devices such as servos might initially (e.g., during pre-flight checks) operate they might cease to do so at any moment. Further Futaba seems to be saying that they are not going to do anything about it other than to advise users to install signal boosters.
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Last edited by kaptondave; Jun 02, 2012 at 12:17 PM.
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Old Jun 02, 2012, 12:06 PM
Proud member of LISF and ESL
LI, New York, USA
Joined Mar 2003
24,450 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by kaptondave View Post
As a Futaba user Te info regarding the newer 2.7 volt receivers is scary. It seem they are saying that although connected devices such as servos might initially (e.g., during pre-flight checks) operate they might cease to do so at any moment. Further Futaba seems to be saying that they are not going to do anything about it other than to advise users to install signal boosters.
What are you talking about. What product are you discussing and where did you read this? AND, what does this have to do with the Radian Pro?
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Old Jun 02, 2012, 12:12 PM
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Joined Jan 2010
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Originally Posted by aeajr View Post
What are you talking about. What product are you discussing and where did you read this? AND, what does this have to do with the Radian Pro?
I am talking about Quasi-Mojo's problem with his Futaba 6014FS receiver and Futaba's comments about their 3.7 volt receivers. Read the preceding post from Quais-Mojo.
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Old Jun 02, 2012, 12:13 PM
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Old Jun 02, 2012, 12:14 PM
Drifting off the reservation..
JumpySticks's Avatar
USA, LA, Broussard
Joined Jan 2011
2,296 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Quasi_Mojo View Post
I thought I would take some time and update anybody who cares about my struggle with using the Futaba 10CAP with the Radian Pro.

I dropped the Radian Pro and Futaba Tx off at an LHS (again) Monday after work and they had it until Friday (today) until about 5:30, when I picked it up. Once again, they failed to diagnose the issue and get the pair working together. They were able to use a Spectrum DX8 and a Spectrum Rx in the RP without issues. I called them on Friday morning to make sure that they attempted to call Futaba support during their support hours in case they couldn't figure it out. I was advised that Futaba walked them through the setup and they still couldn't get it to work.

In my desperation to figure out what was wrong, I purchased a replacement receiver, an R6008HS (manual link), this time - to try instead of the R6014FS (manual link) that came with the Futaba 10CAP. I removed the 14 channel Rx and popped in the 8 channel Rx, powered on the Transmitter, then plugged in the battery on the RP. I checked the LED activity on the Rx and noticed it was blinking green (the R6014FS always only showed a solid green LED). I checked the instructions to see what the green blinking LED signified, then pressed and held the link button - and then the LED turned solid green - followed by the oh-sweet sound of the remaining three tones. My throttle had armed!!! I pushed the throttle stick up and the motor came to life (prop was removed).

So happy - but still perplexed as to why the one Rx would work and the other would not. The only thing that really stands out in the Futaba 10CAP manual is the following quote (page 20):


Now, I am no expert, but perhaps somebody who knows more than I can take a look at the RP ESC documentation and let me know if I am on the right track, here.
I'll bet the low voltage is the problem. The purpose of the esc is to disarm the motor circuit when voltage gets low, to save the battery for servo function.
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Old Jun 02, 2012, 12:15 PM
Drifting off the reservation..
JumpySticks's Avatar
USA, LA, Broussard
Joined Jan 2011
2,296 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Radio.Active View Post
It has everything to do with the Radian and Radian Pro and the stock ESC supplied with them and anyone wishing to upgrade their TX and RX.

20,000 posts in, what part don't you get!
Easy friend....Aeajr knows his stuff...can probably help with the problem.
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Old Jun 02, 2012, 12:22 PM
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