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Old May 24, 2012, 11:47 AM
turn, turn, turn.
Athol, Massachusetts
Joined Oct 2005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JumpySticks View Post
You're welcome!
I was actually just reporting my findings... Not asking or taking advice.... But it's cool you were trying to be helpful.
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Old May 24, 2012, 11:57 AM
Dixie Normious
Eastcoast78's Avatar
Can A da....Ehh!!
Joined May 2010
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LOL jumpy!! I find it funny that the get back on discussion pops up, then there a full page of discussing why its ok to discuss the non discussions haha..if that makes sense!

I fixed my friends Icon a few weeks ago, i told him about the boiling water trick!But he was a little worrisome about doing it! So i wentover to his place and helped him get her back in the air!

He lost orentation in the sun and she went in from there.
Heres the vid(yes its not a Radian Pro video) please dont shoot me!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JSQvprO7q_M

So anyway, it broke off right where the CF tail brace stops. He already had it glued back together (White GG)
But had a warp in the tail to the too the right(looking from the nose) which caused the Horz stab to not be on a Parallel plain with the main wing!

We got a big pot of H2o boiling, tuned back the heat to med and held the tail over the steam at least 2ft untill there is condensation on the foam and its nice and warm.

Then remove from the steam and bend/shape the part and hold it till the foam cools down. This process may need to be repeated a few times, but it well hold its shape.

Now his tail is straight as a wip!! He was considering righting off the fuse and getting a new one...
This was the first time i had done this trick and it works perfect! My two nose in's with the RP were just glued back together with the White GG,

Do not put it to close to the pot, the heat from the burner well melt the foam. Causing it too look like a dry snakes scales
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Old May 24, 2012, 12:02 PM
turn, turn, turn.
Athol, Massachusetts
Joined Oct 2005
10,214 Posts
You can also use wet paper towels and a hot iron... make sure the paper towels stay wet and there is plenty of steam.
I learned that from the guys flying DLGs.
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Old May 24, 2012, 01:07 PM
Air, Ground & Water
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Canada, ON, Rockland
Joined Aug 2008
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Will this trick work on the PKZ Corsair? is the corsair the same material as the RP?
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Old May 24, 2012, 01:23 PM
turn, turn, turn.
Athol, Massachusetts
Joined Oct 2005
10,214 Posts
It is my understanding it works on just about any foam...
It discolored the kevlar on my wing.
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Old May 24, 2012, 01:49 PM
Tossing planes into the snow
Canada, BC, Smithers
Joined Nov 2011
2,874 Posts
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Originally Posted by freechip View Post
Will this trick work on the PKZ Corsair? is the corsair the same material as the RP?
Nooooo! Don't tell me your beautiful Corsair is crashed. Next to the Radian Pro, that is my favorite bird, and it is a close second. It's made of the same Z-foam as the RP. It looks like you might have saved me from a tail-fail, as you will see in the pictures below. I'm still working on getting the canopy to fit, and decided while I am at it, may as well check out how much glue is holding the plastic stabilizer mount.

Once the plastic was removed (didn't take much because there wasn't much glue), I could see that it was already cracked, in the same place yours broke. It is possible that it cracked as I was prying the plastic pieces, but I doubt it because I was very careful and I think I know how it happened anyway. A couple of weeks ago I was attempting to hang the plane by a hook on the ceiling and dropped it. It landed on it's tail and broke the rudder off.

Luckily I replaced the stock rudder hinge with some very solid plastic ones that are epoxied into place. Those hinges help to hold everything together. If it had not been for your incident, I wouldn't have pulled off the plastic pieces, and would never have noticed the crack. I'm not sure exactly what I'm going to do yet, maybe a CF rod on each side...
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Old May 24, 2012, 01:53 PM
Air, Ground & Water
freechip's Avatar
Canada, ON, Rockland
Joined Aug 2008
23,267 Posts
HAHAHA , NO my Corsair is not crashed BUT it does have a dent from having one of my kids mishandle it.

Looking at your picture of the RP and NOT MUCH GLUE, Your picture show 3-4 maybe five time more glue then I had.

One side had one drop and the other side had 2, should of taken a picture. The foam/fuse SHOW zero sign of glue being attach to it.


PS: PKZ Corsair my fav before the RP.
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Old May 24, 2012, 02:05 PM
Drifting off the reservation..
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USA, LA, Broussard
Joined Jan 2011
2,293 Posts
Kinda shocking to see how little foam there is holding the fin on! Definitely need to make sure that plastic part is glued well!

Also would be good to make sure the bottom half of the rudder is well attached to the rear of the fuse.
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Old May 24, 2012, 02:12 PM
Registered User
United States, CA, Thousand Oaks
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epoxy and glue ?

What epoxy and glue are safe for the RP.
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Last edited by mshoe; May 25, 2012 at 10:36 AM.
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Old May 24, 2012, 02:25 PM
Tossing planes into the snow
Canada, BC, Smithers
Joined Nov 2011
2,874 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by JumpySticks View Post
Kinda shocking to see how little foam there is holding the fin on! Definitely need to make sure that plastic part is glued well!

Also would be good to make sure the bottom half of the rudder is well attached to the rear of the fuse.
The plastic pieces are not all that stiff. You can spread the open end with very little pressure, which means that gluing them in properly isn't going to help all that much. I think it is all up to the rudder hinge to keep this thing together.

Having some good, strong, sticky tape holding the stabilizer in place will also help to prevent the open end of the plastic parts from separating.
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Old May 24, 2012, 02:28 PM
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Old May 24, 2012, 02:54 PM
Tossing planes into the snow
Canada, BC, Smithers
Joined Nov 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Radio.Active View Post
Buried in here

https://skydrive.live.com/?cid=DBDE7...65DDCB92%21672

are images of a CF rod in VStab that runs between the plastic saddle. If I did it again I would run the CF between the front screw and LE of the HStab. But it works good as is. Also includes Dubro hinges for the rudder.
How did you insert the rod? Did you sharpen it and then push it up from the bottom?

I would like to nominate Radio.Active as our official guru. Every time I think of some way to make this plane better, he has already done it. It seems that he has found every weak link in this plane and figured out an effective way of dealing with it. Good job!!
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Old May 24, 2012, 05:26 PM
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Old May 24, 2012, 06:12 PM
Seeker of Thermals
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United States, MT, Kalispell
Joined Aug 2004
636 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by mshoe View Post
What epoxy and glue are save for the RP.
Safe (although some are better at sticking than others): Hot melt glue, Polyurethane glue (Gorilla glue), Silicone RTV-like adesives (Silicone rubber bathtub caulk), Foam Safe CA (cyanoacrylate), Microballoons & (foam safe) CA, probably a bunch of others. The Silicone RTV adhesives are very close (but not exact) to what the manufacturer uses to glue the white plastic pieces to the foam. Probably your best bet. Polyurethane glue sticks quite well to both the plastic and the foam as well.

Not so safe: Regular CA (cyanoacrylate), anything with a solvent in it likes to eat the foam (model airplane glue, 'plastic bonder', etc..) , hot melt glue sticks to both quite well, but also melts the plastic so it looks like a cake left out in the rain. I hear there are 'low temp' hot melt glues, but I haven't tried them.

Epoxies are generally safe. Both the '5 min.', and the '20 min'. But, they don't stick very well to plastic. Or foam.

I've had the best luck with the Silicone RTV (Dow Corning - expensive, and somewhat hard to find). It takes around 24 hours to cure, however.
--
Greg
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Last edited by botulism; May 24, 2012 at 10:39 PM. Reason: spelling
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Old May 24, 2012, 06:35 PM
Drifting off the reservation..
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USA, LA, Broussard
Joined Jan 2011
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Parkzone recommends Bathtub caulk for gluing plastics to the foam. It retains some flexibility which keeps the foam from cracking. Stiff Glues like CA will transfer stress to the end of the joint where another crack may develop. It's really good to slop lots of caulk under the cowl to deaden motor vibrations.

For foam on foam joints, White Gorilla Glue is preferred by most folks. Lightly moisten the joint before applying the glue and the GG foams as it cures, filling any gaps very well. Best to tape the joint tight while the glue cures.
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