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Old May 13, 2012, 06:01 PM
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Old May 13, 2012, 07:09 PM
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First flight of the year Friday....

Flew the RP for the 1st time a couple of days ago. There were so many thermals it was somewhat boring. However, hit a thermal going fast that pitched me straight up then turned me slightly inverted on the way down after the stall. When I pulled it out I thought the wings were going to come off but they did not. I was lucky - you should have seen the amount that they bent up!
Finally got the servo protectors on.
Still flying with the ailerons extended to the tips with no problems, even on tip landings. Has anyone else tried this yet?
Craig
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Old May 14, 2012, 01:21 AM
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Can you fly the Radian Pro with a DX6i or do you have to have something higher
like a DX8?
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Old May 14, 2012, 02:36 AM
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Originally Posted by HoosierGuy View Post
Can you fly the Radian Pro with a DX6i or do you have to have something higher
like a DX8?
A DX6i does not support all of the RP's features. Some of the labels on the switches will be incorrect, for example flaps. It's fine for a Radian, but comes up lacking with a RadianPro.

The DX8 and DX7S are not the best choice either. They offer better support of RP features. However, both lack native sailplane features.

Spektrum is shipping the DX10t in the US, and in the future a DX18. Both include native sailplane features. Both are more expensive than DX6i, DX7S and DX8.

A full feature JR radio is a better choice, if you wish to continue to use the BnF receiver.
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Old May 14, 2012, 04:52 AM
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Originally Posted by HoosierGuy View Post
Can you fly the Radian Pro with a DX6i or do you have to have something higher
like a DX8?
Yes, you absolutely can. And Horizon publishes the set-up on their web site. You won' t be able to do all the mixes that the higher end radios can do but you can absoulutely fly the RP with a DX6i. For that matter you can fly it with a DX5e.
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Old May 14, 2012, 05:15 AM
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Newmarket, England.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HoosierGuy View Post
Can you fly the Radian Pro with a DX6i or do you have to have something higher
like a DX8?
More info for you here as stated in the previous reply

http://www.horizonhobby.com/pdf/Radi...DX6i_setup.pdf

You can fly this excellent aircraft with a 4 channel basic radio with no mixes at all.
You would be using throttle, alilerons, elevator and rudder.

Having said that you could fly it with a 3 channel radio and lock the rudder in position therefore just using throttle, ailerons and elevator.

It all depends on your requirements, available $ and if you want to keep it stupidly simple (KISS) or use every possible mix and control surface combination to arguably provide a "better" flying experience

Plug it all in to your DX6i mate and enjoy
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Old May 14, 2012, 09:58 AM
Big Jim
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United States, ID, Mountain Home
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HoosierGuy View Post
Can you fly the Radian Pro with a DX6i or do you have to have something higher
like a DX8?
I fly mine on my DX6I and love it I did set up a full house operation on mine with crow flaps and camber and soon realized that camber and crow fit no where in my flying style. I noticed very little to no change in the flight of my plane so now its just flaps with 20% down elevator to land at my feet on demand. I did have three position flaps for a bit but again no need for the first two positions. I look at it this way ether I am in a thermal specking her out or not. Just my 2 cents.
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Old May 14, 2012, 10:17 AM
Tossing planes into the snow
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The DX6i PDF document on the HH website seriously undersells the ability of that radio. There is a misleading statement at the beginning...
"There are not enough mixes available on the DX6i to allow for camber and reflex settings in addition to flaps and CROW; however, these are not required to enjoy the Radian Pro."

What they are trying to say is that you can't have all of them available at your fingertips at any given time. You need to pick one of the 3, camber, reflex, or crow, and program it for that. It would be easy to read this statement and think that the DX6i could not do camber and reflex at all. Camber and reflex are never mentioned again, as though they simply are not options.

Although the DX6i won't do them all at once, it will do:
1 Full-span camber, plus flaps
2 Full-span reflex, plus flaps
3 Crow
4 3-position flaps
5 Flaps and crow independently, and each with it's own elevator compensation

The settings are not intuitive, for example, one of them is a Gear-to-Gear mix controlled by the Flap switch, but they all work.
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Old May 14, 2012, 10:24 AM
Bring It On !!!!!
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Newmarket, England.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RTF Thumper View Post
I fly mine on my DX6I and love it I did set up a full house operation on mine with crow flaps and camber and soon realized that camber and crow fit no where in my flying style. I noticed very little to no change in the flight of my plane so now its just flaps with 20% down elevator to land at my feet on demand. I did have three position flaps for a bit but again no need for the first two positions. I look at it this way ether I am in a thermal specking her out or not. Just my 2 cents.
Yep I agree with that.

With all due respect for everyone who wants to gain as much performance as they can , I don't see the need for a TX which costs much more than the cost of the model to be employed to get the maximum enjoyment from it.

I understand that the technology is there but for some of us the use of it all is a bit overwhelming to sometimes just go and fly. It may all be very good for competition flying, or just that you really want to explore all the different combinations but to be fair,, when the RP is up to 2000 feet can you really feel or see the difference that the camber or reflex input has

If it works for you,, go for it,, I'm not critiscising your choices or questioning your employment of it all either,, just adding another view to the mix

I don't think that with my experience the addition of camber and reflex would be that noticeable either. I'm either in a thermal or not and I can tell if things are going good by the amount of time I'm in the air without having to use all the available volts from my Lipo

I also agree with Jovanx,, The DX6i is a very underated TX and it'll do what you want to get a good set up on the RP.
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Old May 14, 2012, 10:41 AM
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Note that full span camber (flaps and ailerons) is not required to get the benefit of camber. This reduces the channel and mix requirements. I can do flap based camber and reflex on a Radian Pro with no mixes at all.

This is a little piece I did when the Pro first came out. This is an example of how to set it up on a DX5e which has no mixing of any kind.

DO YOU NEED A SAILPLANE RADIO?

You can fly the Radian Pro on a Dx5e and an AR500 receiver. So let's make that clear. The AR500 has a second aileron slot that acts like a built in Y cable for the ailerons so they can operate on one channel. You can move the throttle to the switch and put the flaps on the left stick and have fully variable flaps. That will give you a lot of flexibility to manually create reflex, camber and flaps for landing but you will have to manually apply elevator to each of those mixes to keep the plane flying right. This is how full house gliders were flown before there were computer radios. The computer radios, like the DX6i, can add elevator automatically.

To get all the cool mixes that sailplane pilots like, you need a sailplane radio or you need to get real good at using user mixes and you may need a lot of them. But not all of those mixes are necessary. If you have a more basic computer radio, like a DX7 or even perhaps a DX6i, you can get enough mixes working to start to take advantage of that full house wing.

Crow is cool, but not necessary. A flap to elevator mix is more than adequate to handle spot landings. Even the Dx6i has that mix. I used to use crow on my competition gliders but have since done away with it.

Crow might have real value on the slope where you might have a very tight landing area where you may have to keep the speed up on approach then get the glider down very fast into a very small area. Again, not necessary but helpful.

On the other hand thermal camber and reflex make a big difference in your speed range and thermaling ability when flying as a thermal glider. Those are mixes I would want. But again, you can use the flaps alone for both. It is not as good as full span, including ailerons, but unless you are a competition pilot, using the flaps alone is more than adequate.

If you only have a 3 position flap switch and no other flap controls you use this for your landing mix. This normally also includes elevator compensation which is very important.

To create reflex and thermal camber using the flaps alone you have to hope you have enough user mixes to create those mixes. Having the flaps on a Y cable is not a limitation for these mixes and they don't have to be fully variable. Presets work great. That is what I use on my Futaba 9C Supers. I have preset one for thermal camber and one for reflex. If you can get the ailerons aligned and moving with the flaps for these settings all the better, but again not necessary.

So, assuming you don't have a sailplane radio, you do have a flap control and at least 2 user mixes, you are in good shape. If your flap control is fully variable, great. But this example will assume you have a 3 position flap control.

Flap control - Landing - off, 50%, 100% - along with elevator compensation at each setting. BTW, your landing flaps don't have to be 90 degrees. Many times we find that we like our max flaps around 60 degrees. So you would have a 30 degree and 60 degree flap setting. Good slow approach with less chance of stalling and less chance of damaging the flap servos if you drag them on the ground.

Reflex - flaps up 1/4" - elevator mixing is nice but not necessary. How much you use is something that has to be tuned. There is no correct number for every plane. If you have a user mix and can assign this to a switch you are all set.

Thermal camber - flaps down about 1/4" -elevator mixing is nice but not necessary. Again, you need to play with the amount. You can try 3/8" and maybe even 1/2", but it probably won't be a full inch. That would likely create too much drag and cause you to drop out of the thermal. If you have a user mix and can assign a flap preset to this position and put it on a switch, you are golden.

Now you have neutral/normal flight, what I call cruise.

If you hit some bad sink, or if you are trying to come up wind, you hit some reflex, flap slightly up, and pick up speed.

If you find a thermal, circle and confirm the lift, you hit the thermal setting, flap slightly down, to climb faster in the lift

Come in for a landing - cruise, then landing/flap 1, then landing/flap 2 for landing.

This article, found on the Eastern Soaring League web site, discusses the features and benefits of sailplane radios. It should help you understand what these features do and why sailplane pilots use them when flying full house sailplanes. It also sets some priorities. You may find it interesting.
http://forums.flyesl.com/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=223

Also this one at the Orlando Buzzards
http://www.orlandobuzzards.org/?page_id=892

The message is that you don't need a $400 sailplane radio to fly the Radian Pro. You can do a lot with a DX6i and more with a DX7 or radios of similar level that don't have sailplane programming. For most sport pilots that is more than enough.

If you get real serious about sailplanes, then you can look at those higher end sailplane radios. Of course if you have the bucks, go for the best radio you can afford. The JR 9503, The Multiplex Evo 9, the Airtronics SD10G, Futaba 10CG and the Hitec Aurora 9 are really nice sailplane radio.
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Old May 14, 2012, 11:08 AM
Tossing planes into the snow
Canada, BC, Smithers
Joined Nov 2011
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Thank you for that, aeajr. I agree that the flaps are very effective and crow does not add much to your ability to bring the plane down, except in unusual circumstances That's why I am so surprised at the HH document that focuses on crow and simply dismisses camber and reflex. It never mentions 3-position flaps and they are also very useful.

It is interesting about what you say about camber and reflex being 1/4" or even more. I am going to try that for sure. Everything else I've read says it should only be 1/8". I am not a competition flier, and so far haven't had much experience with thermals due to my geographic location. I get my thrills doing other things, (all with the prop not turning) such as high speed dives and low passes, surfing the wind, precision landings, and holding the plane steady to get good video footage. I know this plane is designed for thermals, but I will be flying it today, and as usual, there will probably be no thermals. Maybe when summer arrives they will finally come.
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Old May 14, 2012, 11:26 AM
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Camber and reflex amounts are not absolutes. Different people like different settings. Some of the settings advice may be general and not specific to this plane. My comments are general.

One could argue that there is only one real correct setting, but unless we are doing this in a wind tunnel, I say experiment a bit and see what works for you. 1/4" vs. 1/8" is what I call "salting to taste". And, they don't have to be equal. You may like 1/4" down for camber and and 1/8" up for reflex.

Try them both and see what you like better. Since these two are completely independent of each other you can change them both at the same time. Play play play.

Fly for a while at one setting, say a couple of days, and see how it works for you. Then try at another setting and see how that works for you. Try mixing in some down elevator in either or both. Only a few % should be needed to get some feel for the change. Or put in a few clicks of trim when you engage camber or reflex to see what that does.

Different CG settings will also produce different results. So there are many factors that go into your preferred settings.

Your smileage may vary.

A contest pilot or a "serious" sailplane pilot is going to want a sailplane radio with all the bells and whistles. They will have 4-6 flight conditions, changes in expo per condition, and ...... all that stuff.

But, if the Radian is your most advanced sailplane, don't sweat this stuff. Get the mixes you can.

In my opinion flap to elevator is the most important one because that is your landing mix.

Thermal camber is next.

Reflex is next.

Flap based camber and reflex can be done from a DX5e.

Aileron differential can be done mechanically.

Aileron to rudder mixing is nice but you can do it manually.

Go, fly, hunt thermals, enjoy!

Once you are addicted then you will get that real cool sailplane radio and the big sailplane. Till then, let the force lift you above the other pilots using those spinny things on the nose.


If you get REALLY good, you can come join us on the winch where there are no motors for safety nets, and where launching is a skill by itself.

May the force be with you.
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Old May 14, 2012, 12:11 PM
Tossing planes into the snow
Canada, BC, Smithers
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Originally Posted by aeajr View Post
Till then, let the force lift you above the other pilots using those spinny things on the nose.
Keep that thought...and check out this beautiful video I stumbled across the other day. These guys are slope soaring with planes that were never intended to be gliders, such as warbirds and jets. Enjoy!

Power-Scale-Soaring (8 min 9 sec)
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Old May 14, 2012, 12:31 PM
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Yep, slope soaring is a blast. Radian Pros love the slope!
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Old May 14, 2012, 01:48 PM
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Hi everyone

I bought the Radian about 6 months ago (the RTF package with the DX5). Its an excellent plane and I decided to get the Radian Pro. Same week that I bought it, my DX5 died (antenna break -- not my fault --- so I sent it in..and got the DX7s which was recommended to me by a friend.

I see the DX7 and DX8 instructions everywhere, but I was wondering if somewhere in this 608 page novel of amazing advice someone has laid out the proper settings for a DX7S -- I've searched high and low but have not had much luck.

I am a newbie when it comes to crow and camber, flaps etc etc etc. I got the plane hooked up properly after an hour or two messing around (AR600 receiver) with the flaps in a y-harness hooked to GEAR, left airelon to "aire" slot and right to Aux1.

I also found that specifically to the DX7s someone mentioned switches needed to be set at Trainer: INH, FMode: INH, Flap: INH, Mix:INH, KNOB, Aux2, Gear:Gear.

Yet, already in step 1 of the instructions, I am hitting a roadblock. In prog Mix 1 (setting up airelone for crow) , it says select GEAR -> FLAP. So I made GER > FLP on my remote. check.

"On the rate, set switch position 0 to 0%...my remote is showing me Rate: 0%, (another 0% under that), and then "Offset" 0%. So should I be adjusting the first and last number and leave the middle at 0? This is a little over my head.

Furthermore, should I make adjustments for ELE>FLP and AIL > RUD? I don't see any instructions to make changes to those pages....

Anyway, I'm a little lost so any words of advice will be appreciated.
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