I will try the servo test in the morning playing around with it moving switches on the tx it all of a suden started to work good thing the prop was off it worked fine throtteld up and down. I thought it had fixed itself somehow. I turned it off at the tx and then puled the battery power out and tried it again now nothing nothing

Originally Posted by kmihalkov

subscribed

Hi guys, thanks for the good thread.
All your advises are very useful.
I made one very long and successful flight without stop, about 1 hours.
Unfortunately with a light crash because of strong gust of wind

Congratulations on your long flight and successful repair. I've had the plane for 6 months and fly it almost every day, but so far have only experienced one thermal. Hopefully that will change when summer gets here.

Originally Posted by kmihalkov

Hi Ed
Thank you very much for your good advise.
After little crash of my Radian Pro the front part of fuselage was very warp.
I started to think for new fuselage, but saw your reply in this thread.
Reading your advise I used hot running tap water.
Now I have nearly new fuselage.

Cheers
Krasimir

We all crash.

Some discrard and buy new. Either they have plenty of money and don't care OR they fret over it because of the expense. They get uptight and end up crashing because they worry about the expense .... so they crash.

Others fix. Once you learn to fix, crashing becomes less of a tramautic issue. And once that happens, you tend to crash less because you tend to worry about it less. If it happens, you just fix stuff. You can relax and enjoy the flight.

That is true about how being able to fix it takes the worry out of flying. Another side-benefit is that sometimes fixing it makes it even better than when it was new. The little incident I had with the rudder the other day is a good example. My friend says "A model airplane is just a whole bunch of little pieces, all flying in formation."

Hi Guys
I notice there was some discussion around fixing bent or compressed foam using heat. I purchased a heat gun this week and gave it a try last night. All I managed to was able to do was make foam bubble (looked like scales). I tried it on some Styrofoam and that just melted.

The gun didn't seem too hot as I was able to pass it over my hand at close range. Am I missing something? All I ended up with was an uglier looking dent.


The gun didn't seem too hot as I was able to pass it over my hand at close range. Am I missing something? All I ended up with was an uglier looking dent.

Originally Posted by LWMP

Hi Guys
I notice there was some discussion around fixing bent or compressed foam using heat. I purchased a heat gun this week and gave it a try last night. All I managed to was able to do was make foam bubble (looked like scales). I tried it on some Styrofoam and that just melted.

The gun didn't seem too hot as I was able to pass it over my hand at close range. Am I missing something? All I ended up with was an uglier looking dent.


The gun didn't seem too hot as I was able to pass it over my hand at close range. Am I missing something? All I ended up with was an uglier looking dent.

Steam is what does it here is the part you may have missed

using a heat gun/hair dryer to heat a wet cloth or paper towels. Don't let the towels dry out completely. You heat the wet cloth till it steams and starts to dry out. You have the part stretched while you do it, just as above.

BTW this works well for bagged composite wings, like DLG wings. It can take a dent our by heating the foam under the skin. I use paper towels and my covering iron. They just magically disappear. Works well for dents in your Raidan, Easy Glider, etc. here you want to be more focused, so a covering iron or a hot clothes iron is best. Just use the tip to focus the heated area over the dent.
Hope this helps

Originally Posted by LWMP

Hi Guys
I notice there was some discussion around fixing bent or compressed foam using heat. I purchased a heat gun this week and gave it a try last night. All I managed to was able to do was make foam bubble (looked like scales). I tried it on some Styrofoam and that just melted.

The gun didn't seem too hot as I was able to pass it over my hand at close range. Am I missing something? All I ended up with was an uglier looking dent.

Dry heat will work, but it has to be applied slowly and gently, and for a long time to let it penetrate. The picture shows how I removed a warp from the wing by suspending it above an electric heater for a couple of hours. It was not a case of getting rid of a surface dent, but a desire to get the heat right into the core of a piece of foam that is over an inch thick. It worked. The pieces of wood were taped together in such a way, that when laid on a flat surface to cool, the wing would be twisted in the desired direction.

Thanks, the answer was right there! I will try using a damp cloth tonight.

Worked out how to get my speedcontroller to activate I now turn on the tx then the glider as usual then turn off the TX untill I hear the armed signal from the motor then turn the tx back on and all is well. thre must be a reason why it wont arm on my TX as it works fine on a mates DX7 with all the same settings as mine. not perfect but I am able to fly had 40min thisarvo on a few little bubbles flies very nice thermals well with the flaps down just maintaining the bank with rudder. And realy scoots around the sky. could anybody tell me exactly what the two reflex settings are used for I asume for high speed

Originally Posted by Jovanx

Dry heat will work, but it has to be applied slowly and gently, and for a long time to let it penetrate. The picture shows how I removed a warp from the wing by suspending it above an electric heater for a couple of hours. It was not a case of getting rid of a surface dent, but a desire to get the heat right into the core of a piece of foam that is over an inch thick. It worked. The pieces of wood were taped together in such a way, that when laid on a flat surface to cool, the wing would be twisted in the desired direction.

Hey Jvx. Are you a musician?

--
Greg

Originally Posted by Desert flier

could anybody tell me exactly what the two reflex settings are used for I asume for high speed

When you talk about two (2) REFLEX settings, I think you mean REFLEX in addition to CAMBER. Both involve very small deflections of the flaps. REFLEX implies flaps UP relative to neutral. CAMBER implies flaps DOWN relative to neutral. REFLEX is used to get better penetration for moving from one place to another (higher speed but less lift). CAMBER is used to get more lift when thermaling. The effects in the Radian PRO are not dramatic, but useful.

Hope this helps!

BILL in MO
USA

Originally Posted by botulism

Hey Jvx. Are you a musician?
--
Greg

Yes, I play guitar and bass. I guess you must have noticed the microphone stand that the wing was hanging from. Those stands are handy for holding or supporting various things.

> Trailing edge camber adjustments - Best Practices
> http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=403126

Thanks for the info will give it a try today

I've just installed 4-pin 0.1" connectors on the wings. Fast and easy assembly now.

Got them from hansenhobbies.com

Item Number HH-PT1IN_1x4 (x10)
Item Number HH-PT1IN_SRSH40 (x1)
Item Number HH-PT1IN_FT (x30)