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Old Jul 20, 2011, 03:10 AM
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Just ordered a pair of these:
https://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/...idproduct=7985

It's 11x8 but acording to the reviews it's actualy a 10x8 prop. Personaly my first purchase at HK but expecting good stuff as i heard allot of good from it from my flying buddies.
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Old Jul 20, 2011, 05:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Coenraad View Post
Just ordered a pair of these:
https://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/...idproduct=7985

It's 11x8 but acording to the reviews it's actualy a 10x8 prop. Personaly my first purchase at HK but expecting good stuff as i heard allot of good from it from my flying buddies.
I hope it fits the Radian's hub, and I hope you have better experience with HK than I did.
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Old Jul 20, 2011, 07:52 AM
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The hub is only 2MM so not sure if that is enough. If not it is no problem to just drill it out a bit. Nothing a Dremel and Drilbit won't fix
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Old Jul 20, 2011, 09:51 AM
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Originally Posted by sonny1 View Post
Thanks, I just so happen to have a set of Graupner 10x8 blades and an extra set of Golden Rods in my drawer, so that's good news. I have some experience straightening foam out on my edf's, (I crash every once in awhile....er...ahh....well, more like every other flight!!), so I'll make sure the fuse is straight. I spent a couple of years flying EP woody sailplanes exclusively, so I have a good supply of folding prop blades on hand; I also have several size esc's available, how much can that motor take? Will it handle 11x7 if I up-size the esc?

I'm pretty excited about the ALES thing, it gives those of us who can't afford a Supra, (or Icon, or AVA, or ???), a chance to actually compete in a sailplane contest. My full-house planes are old obechi/foam fiberglass-fused planes from the 90's, and in Open Class I just can't keep up with the mouldies, so ALES is a way in which I can get out there and mix it up. If I had time I'd swap the 480 stock motor out for a Power 10 I have in my drawer, but I don't think I'll have the time. Hopefully the 10x8 will do the trick, after that it's a TD contest, (and goodness knows I suck at that.....but it's fun so I try anyway!).

Sonny
The original Radian can hit the 200 meters in 30 seconds on the stock set-up. The Pro has a similar powered motor, but the plane weighs 25% more so the climb is not as strong. Replacing the 9.75 by 7 with the 10X8 should get you there in 30 seconds without over stressing the motor. However you might want to upgrade the battery a bit as you will be pushing the stock battery right to the wall. This will result in some voltage sag and my shorten the life of the pack.

Should be OK for your contest but I would proably suggest a 1500 20C or higher pack for the long term. I picked up two of these so I now have three packs for my Radian.

Even on my Original, stock Radian I can feel a difference with the higher C rated packs. They don't sag as much.
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Old Jul 20, 2011, 12:21 PM
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Originally Posted by aeajr View Post
The original Radian can hit the 200 meters in 30 seconds on the stock set-up. The Pro has a similar powered motor, but the plane weighs 25% more so the climb is not as strong. Replacing the 9.75 by 7 with the 10X8 should get you there in 30 seconds without over stressing the motor. However you might want to upgrade the battery a bit as you will be pushing the stock battery right to the wall. This will result in some voltage sag and my shorten the life of the pack.

Should be OK for your contest but I would proably suggest a 1500 20C or higher pack for the long term. I picked up two of these so I now have three packs for my Radian.

Even on my Original, stock Radian I can feel a difference with the higher C rated packs. They don't sag as much.
Thanks, I was going to use 25C or 30C packs which I already have; I even have a couple of 40C packs. I fly edf's so I have a good supply of various capacity packs in sizes from 1300mah to 2500mah and everything in between. I was going to start with 3S 30C 1300mah packs, and I have 10x8 & 11x6 prop blades on hand also. The RP should arrive tomorrow, and one of the first things I'll do is put it on a meter and run the motor in with various props. I assume the motor has a 4mm shaft, but if not I have prop adapters from 3mm to 6mm available; I think I'm ready to rock. Now if I can tackle the programming of my Optic 6 I'll be golden, but if that proves problematic I also have a Stylus 8 ch sailplane tx I can use. Thanks for all the good advice guys, I appreciate it!

Sonny
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Old Jul 20, 2011, 12:35 PM
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For some more data (measured) on props and batteries for the Radian Pro, see my posts here and here.

Randy
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Old Jul 20, 2011, 01:15 PM
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Randy,

Those are great posts. Did you ever retest the 10X8 prop?
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Old Jul 20, 2011, 01:35 PM
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Originally Posted by aeajr View Post
Randy,

Those are great posts. Did you ever retest the 10X8 prop?
No. I run both sizes and haven't seen much difference between them. The two biggest steps to take are moving to the Graupner 10x8 or 11x8, and replacing the battery with a higher C rated pack.

When replacing the pack, if you go to a lower capacity pack, you can also benefit from the weight savings. The lighter packs also help move the CG back on the standard Radian.

A mistake that I see novices make over and over on these forums is to put some big cheap pack in to try and get more power. They end up with a heavier ship with the same rate of climb or possibly even worse. The capacity of the pack does not really matter when it comes to power. You are looking for a pack that will hold voltage under load, and that means low internal resistance, and that means high C rating.

If you want to fly your Radian like a sailplane, then you want the most power per weight that you can get. For that, you can't beat the little 850mAh 45C or 65C packs. They weigh less than the stock pack and put out much more punch.

Randy
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Old Jul 20, 2011, 01:38 PM
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No. I run both sizes and haven't seen much difference between them. The two biggest steps to take are moving to the Graupner 10x8 or 11x8, and replacing the battery with a higher C rated pack.

When replacing the pack, if you go to a lower capacity pack, you can also benefit from the weight savings. The lighter packs also help move the CG back on the standard Radian.

A mistake that I see novices make over and over on these forums is to put some big cheap pack in to try and get more power. They end up with a heavier ship with the same rate of climb or possibly even worse. The capacity of the pack does not really matter when it comes to power. You are looking for a pack that will hold voltage under load, and that means low internal resistance, and that means high C rating.
If you want to fly your Radian like a sailplane, then you want the most power per weight that you can get. For that, you can't beat the little 850mAh 45C or 65C packs. They weigh less than the stock pack and put out much more punch.

Randy
Sage advice as always.
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Old Jul 20, 2011, 02:03 PM
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Some nice flying buddy sold me his little used Radian props to use on my RP. Now i can fly her again. I hope the Hk prop comes in soon too.

If the weather is nice i can fly again tomorrow. This time with threadlock on the spinner screw and nut.
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Old Jul 20, 2011, 05:51 PM
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I just got my BB Aluminum Turbo Spinner and I am new to this, but I have a question. Does the spinner just press on to the shaft of the stock motor? Thanks for any help.
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Old Jul 20, 2011, 05:56 PM
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it pushes on, then tighten the screw in the nose of the cone. I put some blue locktite on mine.
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Old Jul 20, 2011, 06:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Flux Cobalt View Post
I just got my BB Aluminum Turbo Spinner and I am new to this, but I have a question. Does the spinner just press on to the shaft of the stock motor? Thanks for any help.
1. Make sure it's the proper size needed for the shaft, ie 4mm, 5mm, etc.
2. As stated above, push it on then tighten down on the shaft; it should be on very tight, and thread locker is recommended, (Loctite Blue for example; not much, a little dab will do ya).
3. To be safe when testing the motor make sure you hold the prop away from your body as a loose prop adapter can come flying off with extreme prejudice; believe me it hurts if it hits something vital like fingers or eyes.
4. If it runs up to full throttle without coming off you're golden. If you notice any adverse vibrations the prop blades can be separately weighed to determine if one is heavier than the other, if one is heavier a little quality time with sandpaper is called for to get both blades weighing the same for balance.
5. Aluminum spinners weigh more than plastic ones, check your COG, (center of gravity), to make sure it's not nose heavy. If it is try a smaller lipo and/or slide the one you're using further back to attain the proper balance.

Good luck, be safe.

Sonny
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Old Jul 21, 2011, 01:47 AM
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Originally Posted by rcbrust View Post
For some more data (measured) on props and batteries for the Radian Pro, see my posts here and here.

Randy
Randy, thank you for the prop data. I went through my drawers tonight and found the following prop blades: Graupner 10x8 & 11x8, Aeronaut 11x10, APC 12x8, & plastic no name, (Chinese probably; and heavy), 11x6 & 11x8. Due to time constraints I will probably go with the Graupner props first, after that the Aeronaut. I was surprised to see only a slight increase in amp draw from the 10x8 to 11x8 in your post, so I won't sweat going to 11x8 first as I'm sure 20A for 30 seconds won't over-amp the motor. I can't seem to find any listed stats on the stock motor as far as continuous and max amp ratings go, but I assume it's in the 22A continuous range. It would be interesting to see what the thrust figures are between 10x8 & 11x8, I know that rpm can sometimes trump an increase in prop size and amp draw by producing superior thrust due to increased rpm of the smaller diameter prop. In this case as long as it gets me to contest height in 30 seconds or less I'll be happy.
In reading through the thread I noticed that more than a few people were somewhat befuddled by the full-house aspects of the RP, coming to the it from the sport or park flying world. I on the other hand am mainly a sailplane pilot, so I understand the use of flaps, crow, reflex, camber, various switches and so forth associated with full-house sailplanes. I'm using an Optic 6 for mine, and all those things are available on that tx, but it will be my first use of a Hitec radio with a sailplane; I've always used Airtronics for sailplanes til now, (Stylus 8ch).
If I have the time before ALES, I'll put those Graupner props on the wattmeter and see how my stats compare to yours, thanks again!

Good air,

Sonny
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Old Jul 21, 2011, 02:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Flux Cobalt View Post
I just got my BB Aluminum Turbo Spinner and I am new to this, but I have a question. Does the spinner just press on to the shaft of the stock motor? Thanks for any help.
I forgot Flux, what props did you go with and was it a easy installation with the BB?? I got my spinner in as well but haven't had the time to mess with the exchange of the spinner, guess I'll wait 'til the Graupner 10x8 props arrive before I try to do anything
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