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Old Apr 08, 2011, 04:50 AM
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United States, AR, Sheridan
Joined Nov 2007
42 Posts
took out my speed controler to solder a dean plug on it and not sure how to reinstall it and body got a pic of the inside of the canopy, motor leads hooked up but some thing is not right with the velcrow & position thanks frank
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Old Apr 08, 2011, 06:49 AM
Do you see what I see?
rcoconut's Avatar
Rancho Cucamonga, CA
Joined Sep 2006
1,775 Posts
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Originally Posted by JumpySticks View Post
I had lots of trouble remembering to stop the timer at the end of a flight, so I was not getting an accurate record of flight duration. When I did get a time, I would forget to write it down. The GPS logger has solved that problem.

On my blog page I'm assembling images to catalog some of the lesser known gps features of Google Earth. It's an amazing tool.
My iTouch has an app called RCLogbook. I use that to log my flights as well as log battery information (how many cycles, last charge and other info that's beyond my capabilities) But there has been times where I've forgotten to turn the timer off as well so I'm liking the GPS data logger more!

And thanks to your blog I was able to download the geoid correction and I'm trying to be patient as far as your step by step slides of the Google Earth features to be complete. Very nice helpful instructions you are putting together for everyone to use!
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Old Apr 08, 2011, 09:16 AM
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Joined Mar 2011
100 Posts
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Originally Posted by JumpySticks View Post
Hey, I watched your high fly video. Based upon the sound during your high speed pass I think you have plenty of power.

Then I watched your aileron problem video

Same thing has happened to me on a landing when the aileron servo snagged some weeds. I think it has either stripped or jumped a few cogs on the servo gears.

I don't think your sub trim idea is the best idea.

What I did was to take the servo arm off, turn on the radio, neutralize all trims and put the servo arm back on at the same angle as the opposite aileron servo. This forward angle of the aileron servo arms is necessary to maintain the mechanical aileron differential that the plane is shipped with. If the aileron servo arms do not match exactly at neutral trim, then the differential will not work right and the plane will not fly well at all. You have to undo all the sub trim you put in prior to making this adjustment. If the servos still do not work right after this, then you probably stripped a gear and will have to replace the servo.

Once both servo arms are at the same angle (should be forward about 50 degrees or so) then adjust the ailerons so they are even with the flap using the clevises attached to the aileron control horns. Turn them until the ailerons are flush with the flap and the outer trailing edge of the wing.
All surfaces should be trimmed initially using the clevises when you get the plane.

Until you get these trims neutral, you probably won't get the reflex and camber to work right either. The movement of the ailerons should closely match the movement of the flaps for reflex and camber. Crow may not work either with the sub trim that far off. In fact, you may get one side moving less than the other resulting in a loss of control.

After my servo incident, I covered the wing servos and rods with a plastic fairing. It keeps them from snagging when landing.

Forgive if I say things you already know, just don't know how much experience you have.
Hey thanks for the ton of information . For the aileron problem i cut a little foam out and adjusted the servo arm and it was ok , not sure if these servos are metal gear or not but will change if they are not . Sorry about the late response , did test and got some good altitude . Still growing in this hobby, I only been flying for about 2months , so i'm still learning . Thanks for all your help .
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Old Apr 08, 2011, 09:49 AM
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guy hanson's Avatar
Joined Jan 2011
745 Posts
Here are my Radians
(a rookery of Radian?)
One stock Radian -one stock Radian Pro and one Radian camera plane
The camera plane has two Hacker 20/20 motors -on 9x5 props
Thrustis almost double the stock Radian detuned 480
inwatts the stock Radian will pull about 175 watts on a really good battery - the two hackers pull 300 easily

The camera plane was made specificlly for a Zi8 Kodak
all up weight is 2 ounces heavier than the Radian Pro
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Old Apr 08, 2011, 10:05 AM
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Joined Jun 2005
134 Posts
need help program for full span ailerons

Looking for directions to program the 6 ch receiver with the dx7 for full span ailerons.
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Old Apr 08, 2011, 10:34 AM
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MAP123's Avatar
USA, MA, Worcester
Joined Oct 2008
221 Posts
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Originally Posted by G.Aums View Post
Looking for directions to program the 6 ch receiver with the dx7 for full span ailerons.
You need to have at least a 7 channel receiver for that if you still want to have use of flaps as well. Each flap servo will need to be on its own channel.
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Old Apr 08, 2011, 10:35 AM
No risk, no fun
Siggy101's Avatar
Switzerland, VD, Chéserex
Joined Jan 2011
246 Posts
Wow, that camera plane is confusing on the eye. Radian pro colouring on an original radian... Took my head a few seconds to work out what was wrong with the picture...
I bet that flies kinda funny
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Old Apr 08, 2011, 10:46 AM
Drifting off the reservation..
JumpySticks's Avatar
USA, LA, Broussard
Joined Jan 2011
2,296 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by bankheadrc View Post
Hey thanks for the ton of information . For the aileron problem i cut a little foam out and adjusted the servo arm and it was ok , not sure if these servos are metal gear or not but will change if they are not . Sorry about the late response , did test and got some good altitude . Still growing in this hobby, I only been flying for about 2months , so i'm still learning . Thanks for all your help .
I was thinking he had the aileron servos plugged into the wrong sockets.
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Old Apr 08, 2011, 11:47 AM
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Joined Jun 2005
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full span ailerons

Quote:
Originally Posted by MAP123 View Post
You need to have at least a 7 channel receiver for that if you still want to have use of flaps as well. Each flap servo will need to be on its own channel.
I do not have to have flaps just full span ailerons and ele to flap mix
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Old Apr 08, 2011, 12:11 PM
F3P and Sailplanes-Great!
RayPB's Avatar
S.E. Minnesota
Joined Jun 2007
417 Posts
Battery usege on maiden flight

In posting #3265 above I described my Radian Pro's maiden flight. Here is the information about my battery usage as measured on my Cellpro Multi4 charger. The battery is the stock 1300 mAh battery.

After several launches and multiple climbs to altitude in 10 - 15 mph winds:

57% capacity left in battery
Each cell measured 3.872 volts
526 mAh put back in battery


Ray
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Old Apr 08, 2011, 12:37 PM
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guy hanson's Avatar
Joined Jan 2011
745 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Siggy101 View Post
Wow, that camera plane is confusing on the eye. Radian pro colouring on an original radian... Took my head a few seconds to work out what was wrong with the picture...
I bet that flies kinda funny
Funny?- well it's a camera plane - -I couldn't find anything else which fit the bill -so the twin setup worked out nicely.
I bought spare parts and a pro decal sheet and stuck it all together
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Old Apr 08, 2011, 02:22 PM
Work....fly, repeat...
AeroRecon's Avatar
Fredericksburg, Virginia
Joined Jul 2008
1,658 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by guy hanson View Post
Here are my Radians
(a rookery of Radian?)
One stock Radian -one stock Radian Pro and one Radian camera plane
The camera plane has two Hacker 20/20 motors -on 9x5 props
Thrustis almost double the stock Radian detuned 480
inwatts the stock Radian will pull about 175 watts on a really good battery - the two hackers pull 300 easily

The camera plane was made specificlly for a Zi8 Kodak
all up weight is 2 ounces heavier than the Radian Pro
That camera plane looks really slick!!! Great job.
Now you just need to bolt this on the nose:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1419370
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Old Apr 08, 2011, 03:27 PM
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MAP123's Avatar
USA, MA, Worcester
Joined Oct 2008
221 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by G.Aums View Post
I do not have to have flaps just full span ailerons and ele to flap mix
You can make full span ailerons by connecting the left flap and left aileron servo together with a Y-harness, and the same on the right, but one of them will either need a reversing Y-harness or you will need to flip one of the flap servos around, as the flap servos both point in the same direction, while the aileron servos are mirrored. You can then connect those into a Y-harness and into your aileron channel or connect each into its own aileron channel and us the dual aileron (or flap-eron) servo mixing on your radio. The result will be the same as if you had a single, full length aileron on each wing. You could then program flap-erons (full span ailerons and/or full span flaps), camber, or reflex, but nothing where the flap needs to move opposite its nearby aileron (such as with crow or with the standard 5 channel Rud-Elev-Ail-Flap-Throttle setup that you might have on a powered plane).
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Old Apr 08, 2011, 03:41 PM
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guy hanson's Avatar
Joined Jan 2011
745 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by AeroRecon View Post
That camera plane looks really slick!!! Great job.
Now you just need to bolt this on the nose:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1419370
A gimble setup would be nice - but for now the Zi8 will have to do the job
I have looked at other photo planes -and decided I may do my own camera specific design later on
A large sort of way off scale version of the Republic Seabee- with extremely low wing loading, capable of a one pound payload
The Radian looked to be the best quick n dirty approach
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Old Apr 08, 2011, 05:33 PM
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United States, CA, Petaluma
Joined Mar 2011
7 Posts
How's this for a first post. After opening the box and the initial inspection the trailing edges looked OK. I also noticed that the rudder is now taped on both sides, a little stiff but due-able, no binding in the pushrods was detected, but were removed anyways and polished with steel wool. The threaded portion did make some noise going through the ends so I reamed both ends of both pushrod tubes. I only thing I didn't like was the linkage on the flaps, so after pulling them, I tweaked the end of the z bend and reinstalled them on the other side of the servo arm.

It took a little over a week to read this entire thread, but I would like to say thanks for the heads up on this particular kit/model. I already have a DX6i, so the programing went pretty smooth. So once again, thanks guys.

Mike
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