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Old Mar 09, 2011, 03:59 PM
cuz real planes cost too much
USA, CO, Frederick
Joined Jan 2011
778 Posts
so i reprogrammed my radio this weekend. i likey.
with the stock bnf (ar600) and the dx7,
i now have camber/reflex, flaps, crow all on the throttle stick. motor on the gear switch. aileron->rudder mix, and full wing snap-flaps.
the snap flaps really do work well (i was skeptical).
the analog control (throttle stick) of the surfaces for all 3 modes is nice. also, i can now get the flaps down about 80degrees. the plane just slowly floats like this. and crow gets more throw, too, so i can get the plane down pretty fast, but i can vary the throws to get more control when the landing is coming up.
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Old Mar 09, 2011, 04:15 PM
When's the next fly-in?
dee-grose's Avatar
Tanner, Alabama
Joined Oct 2003
6,340 Posts
Would it be possible for you to write up your programming for those settings and post it here? I'd like to give that a try myself.
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Old Mar 09, 2011, 04:18 PM
cuz real planes cost too much
USA, CO, Frederick
Joined Jan 2011
778 Posts
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Originally Posted by dee-grose View Post
Would it be possible for you to write up your programming for those settings and post it here? I'd like to give that a try myself.
i work on writing it all down soon.
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Old Mar 09, 2011, 04:21 PM
When's the next fly-in?
dee-grose's Avatar
Tanner, Alabama
Joined Oct 2003
6,340 Posts
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Originally Posted by pretendpilot View Post
i work on writing it all down soon.
Thanks. That will be good for those of us DX7 guys that only wish we had a real sailplane radio!
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Old Mar 09, 2011, 06:25 PM
Registered User
Sydney
Joined Aug 2005
68 Posts
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Originally Posted by Adrian A View Post
The Graupner 11x8 folds more or less flat. The holes have to be enlarged somewhat. I have flown it, but haven't used it much since I was slope soaring. Others have reported a lot more oomph. You probably would want to pair it with a higher-power battery, like a 25 or 30 C, 1300 mAhr one.
Ditto, using the Graupner 11x8 (I believe it is a CAM Gear) with a 40C 1300maH pack. It pulls about 24A which is about 260W static at 85% throttle. Like most bigger props, this gives a big improvement to the climb rate.... i.e you don't have to wait long to get to altitude
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Old Mar 09, 2011, 06:31 PM
Drifting off the reservation..
JumpySticks's Avatar
USA, LA, Broussard
Joined Jan 2011
2,284 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by dee-grose View Post
Would it be possible for you to write up your programming for those settings and post it here? I'd like to give that a try myself.
me 2.
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Old Mar 09, 2011, 07:09 PM
Just do it.
FlyFisch's Avatar
Stroudsburg, PA
Joined Nov 2009
670 Posts
I just tonight decided to program my dx7 for all the features. Crow works the best, but my ailerons hummm pretty bad (not the usual squeel). Should I take the differential out? I fly with rudder anyway (not mixed). Also, with reflex and camber, the flaps hardly move. What settings do I change for that? After looking at the horizon hobby directions for half an hour, my brain feels like mush.

edit: after reading the above posts, i would also be interested in those settings. Thank you
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Old Mar 10, 2011, 03:43 AM
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SA/RCFlyer's Avatar
Joined Jan 2009
196 Posts
Hi All

I was woundering if there is a set up here some where for a Turnigy 9X? Help will be much appreciated
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Old Mar 10, 2011, 08:24 AM
Never trust laughing dolphins
Joined Feb 2011
2,085 Posts
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Originally Posted by SA/RCFlyer View Post
Hi All

I was woundering if there is a set up here some where for a Turnigy 9X? Help will be much appreciated
Yeah, check here; http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1389668 , you'll find a setup for the Radian Pro there, stock Turnigy 9x v2 firmware. If you have any questions, just post there.
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Old Mar 10, 2011, 10:03 AM
Gravity is patient............
Joined Mar 2006
1,831 Posts
Got my Radian pro last night and put it together just wanted to give a few thoughts.

The packaging was improved, nothing was tight against the wings. No damage. My kit had the new prop. Also the servos were all installed correctly, some had mentioned having to reverse the servo arms. It looks like they are still set up for mechanical differential, so I will have to change that if I want to control that from the radio, haven't decided if I will bother.

I ordered those F-18 servo covers to protect the aileron and flap servos, and they fit great after some trimming. Someone said they thought they were too big, but IMO they are perfect. They look really good too. I suspect they will increase lift a little too, although that's just a guess. Highly recommend these for the Radian pro if you belly land it (instead of catching it)

What are the recommended deflections? I didn't see them in the manual. As far as differential how much should I have?

I purchased a 45c 3sx1750 lipo (Thunder power) from esprit model. A nice happy accident with this lipo is that it is a press fit into the canopy. I cut out the existing velcro straps and pressed this battery all the way to the stop (rear). It will only require a little piece of velcro to be sure to keep it in place. It probably won't move without any!. CG right at 77mm too! Nice.

I am not a sailplane guy, I fly mostly helis and a few regular planks. The setup of these gliders is unbelievably complicated! LOL I spent two hours reading up on it and I haven't scratched the surface. This is the aircraft for the super anal for sure lol. One thing I take issue with the electric sailplane folks is taking throttle off of the left stick. IMO if you have a separate slider (and most radios for sailplanes do anyway) why would you ever do this? There is zero benefit to having to change flight modes to access proportional motor control. I will be putting flap controls on a slider and leave the motor on the left stick for all flight modes. Otherwise that would drive me nuts when I switched back to helis or planks. I would crash for sure. lol. Got to keep the controls somewhat consistent. I suppose if all you do is fly gliders then it's ok. Otherwise you are just begging to screw up and crash.

Edit: forgot to mention that all the control rods were fine. Smooth and easy to move.
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Old Mar 10, 2011, 10:18 AM
Heli's and gliders, what else?
BarnOwl's Avatar
Nederland, GE, Slijk-Ewijk
Joined Apr 2006
719 Posts
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Originally Posted by Targetlocman View Post

I am not a sailplane guy, I fly mostly helis and a few regular planks. The setup of these gliders is unbelievably complicated! LOL I spent two hours reading up on it and I haven't scratched the surface. This is the aircraft for the super anal for sure lol. One thing I take issue with the electric sailplane folks is taking throttle off of the left stick. IMO if you have a separate slider (and most radios for sailplanes do anyway) why would you ever do this? There is zero benefit to having to change flight modes to access proportional motor control. I will be putting flap controls on a slider and leave the motor on the left stick for all flight modes. Otherwise that would drive me nuts when I switched back to helis or planks. I would crash for sure. lol. Got to keep the controls somewhat consistent. I suppose if all you do is fly gliders then it's ok. Otherwise you are just begging to screw up and crash.

Edit: forgot to mention that all the control rods were fine. Smooth and easy to move.
That's what I did! I left the sticks as they're supposed to be. I put flaps on my left slider (Aurora 9) and assigned a switch for Crow and camber.

I'm a heli guy too so I understand exactly what you mean......

Enjoy the Radian Pro, she's a great plane!
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Old Mar 10, 2011, 10:48 AM
Never trust laughing dolphins
Joined Feb 2011
2,085 Posts
Just activate throttle hold and use it in flight and there's no reason not to use the left stick for throttle as usual.
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Old Mar 10, 2011, 11:06 AM
Gravity is patient............
Joined Mar 2006
1,831 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by PHMX View Post
Just activate throttle hold and use it in flight and there's no reason not to use the left stick for throttle as usual.
Yes but I just don't want one control for throttle and flaps that could lead to problems for me. I would eventually screw up.

You could put the throttle on a slider, but that would be non standard for all of my other models. Which would also lead to problems.

Using flight modes or swithches to change the function of the left stick would be a problem for me too. I would crash.

I understand a pure glider or sailplane makes sense putting the flaps on the the left stick, but a powered aircraft should always have the motor on the left stick to keep consistancy with almost all other flying model types IMO.

Not to mention that sliders for Tx can cause problems when powering the esc, most radios don't warn you of a problem if a slider is not zeroed out.
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Old Mar 10, 2011, 11:14 AM
Work....fly, repeat...
AeroRecon's Avatar
Fredericksburg, Virginia
Joined Jul 2008
1,562 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by dee-grose View Post
Would it be possible for you to write up your programming for those settings and post it here? I'd like to give that a try myself.
Me too!
Just got mine over the weekend. DX7 and a BNF.
Could they have made the flap leads any shorter? So used to my Radian...takes 30 seconds from getting out of the truck to being ready to fly. Not so with this one.
Are you guys running extensions to ease the plugging in? Any suggestions there?
Tried the DX7 settings found here recently but I must have messed something up. One of the switches sends the flaps down but then sends one ALE up and one ALE down a little bit.
For the kind of glider flying I do, I think I just need the 3-way for the flaps and leave it at that. Too complicated otherwise.
Mainly going to use it as an AP/AV platform with a GoProHD. Just need to come up with the best mounting method.

Thanks guys.
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Old Mar 10, 2011, 12:21 PM
Drifting off the reservation..
JumpySticks's Avatar
USA, LA, Broussard
Joined Jan 2011
2,284 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by AeroRecon View Post
Me too!
Just got mine over the weekend. DX7 and a BNF.
Could they have made the flap leads any shorter? So used to my Radian...takes 30 seconds from getting out of the truck to being ready to fly. Not so with this one.
Are you guys running extensions to ease the plugging in? Any suggestions there?
Tried the DX7 settings found here recently but I must have messed something up. One of the switches sends the flaps down but then sends one ALE up and one ALE down a little bit.
For the kind of glider flying I do, I think I just need the 3-way for the flaps and leave it at that. Too complicated otherwise.
Mainly going to use it as an AP/AV platform with a GoProHD. Just need to come up with the best mounting method.

Thanks guys.
Your ailerons are in the wrong sockets on the receiver...switch them and it will work fine.
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