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Old Mar 04, 2011, 11:47 PM
Dixie Normious
Eastcoast78's Avatar
Can A da....Ehh!!
Joined May 2010
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Originally Posted by ChuckTseeker View Post
EC78, i was being sarcastic, that thread went feral in one day, it was started on the 3rd of Feb and it's already up to 4446 post and 211,807 views and 297 pages

you can get most of the info thats relevant in the first post i did, then skip 280 pages as we got it here in Australia last week so the last 10 pages have actual info from people who "Own" the Blade mCPX

cheers chuck
LOL i was thinking that when i just looked at it,i was like HOLY SHT lol
Even dave form HH said WTH!!! lmao..

Looks like its decent hili all the same...

PS... that's what i did.. read/looked at the first page/your initial post and went too the last 5 pages lol...
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Old Mar 05, 2011, 03:42 AM
No, I dont work for HH ;)
Bowerz's Avatar
Southampton, Hampshire, UK
Joined Sep 2009
3,685 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eastcoast78 View Post
LOL i was thinking that when i just looked at it,i was like HOLY SHT lol
Even dave form HH said WTH!!! lmao..

Looks like its decent hili all the same...

PS... that's what i did.. read/looked at the first page/your initial post and went too the last 5 pages lol...
I cry when iever i get a subscription email from that thread 'cos i know it's gonna be a good 10-15 minutes reading the 5 pages of posts. And i get another one 2 hours later!
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Old Mar 05, 2011, 09:02 AM
Drifting off the reservation..
JumpySticks's Avatar
USA, LA, Broussard
Joined Jan 2011
2,291 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by dee-grose View Post
Jumpy, did you use the red ones or the blue ones?
The blue ones, with the yellow pushrods.

While reaming out the channels, I noticed that I went all the way through to the hollow inside of the fuselage in a couple of places. I also noticed that what I was reaming out was that caulky silicone glue used to hold the old tubes in. They use a lot. If it wasn't filled with that glue, the channel would have been deep enough to mount the larger tube nearly flush.

There is a plastic blade at the bottom of the channel which reinforces the fuselage. I had to stop reaming there, so the tubes aren't completely flush, but neither were the originals. With the tubes glued in and in contact with the plastic blade, it may add a little stiffness to the fuselage.
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Old Mar 05, 2011, 10:21 AM
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MAP123's Avatar
USA, MA, Worcester
Joined Oct 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JumpySticks View Post
The blue ones, with the yellow pushrods.

While reaming out the channels, I noticed that I went all the way through to the hollow inside of the fuselage in a couple of places. I also noticed that what I was reaming out was that caulky silicone glue used to hold the old tubes in. They use a lot. If it wasn't filled with that glue, the channel would have been deep enough to mount the larger tube nearly flush.

There is a plastic blade at the bottom of the channel which reinforces the fuselage. I had to stop reaming there, so the tubes aren't completely flush, but neither were the originals. With the tubes glued in and in contact with the plastic blade, it may add a little stiffness to the fuselage.
Good information, thanks for the report on that. I'm thinking I might replace my push rods with Gold-N-Rods, too. I pulled them out and did the sanding thing on the metal rods, but they still seem a little stiff. Also, I feel that they may just rust and bind up again. Let us know how the Gold-N-Rods work out for you.
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Old Mar 05, 2011, 10:22 AM
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United States, NC, Wilmington
Joined Nov 2010
153 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by JumpySticks View Post
The blue ones, with the yellow pushrods.

While reaming out the channels, I noticed that I went all the way through to the hollow inside of the fuselage in a couple of places. I also noticed that what I was reaming out was that caulky silicone glue used to hold the old tubes in. They use a lot. If it wasn't filled with that glue, the channel would have been deep enough to mount the larger tube nearly flush.

There is a plastic blade at the bottom of the channel which reinforces the fuselage. I had to stop reaming there, so the tubes aren't completely flush, but neither were the originals. With the tubes glued in and in contact with the plastic blade, it may add a little stiffness to the fuselage.
I'm surprised that you found a lot of glue when you replaced the tubes. Mine had very little and I didn't have to do any reaming to mount the new ones. This which might account for some of the different reports of CG issues.
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Old Mar 05, 2011, 12:30 PM
Drifting off the reservation..
JumpySticks's Avatar
USA, LA, Broussard
Joined Jan 2011
2,291 Posts
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Originally Posted by MAP123 View Post
Good information, thanks for the report on that. I'm thinking I might replace my push rods with Gold-N-Rods, too. I pulled them out and did the sanding thing on the metal rods, but they still seem a little stiff. Also, I feel that they may just rust and bind up again. Let us know how the Gold-N-Rods work out for you.
Will do.
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Old Mar 05, 2011, 03:16 PM
Gravity is patient............
Joined Mar 2006
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Hello! I just ordered a Radian pro. Never flew a sailplane before but I have plenty of RC experience. Anyway I got the bug to get a sail plane from using my Aerofly 5.5 sim. I found myself picking the sailplanes all the time. Something about tooling around unpowered is very appealing to me. I'll read through the thread but if you guys have any advice or caveats let me know.

-Bill
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Old Mar 05, 2011, 03:23 PM
Rick
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Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
Joined Apr 2007
596 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Targetlocman View Post
Hello! I just ordered a Radian pro. Never flew a sailplane before but I have plenty of RC experience. Anyway I got the bug to get a sail plane from using my Aerofly 5.5 sim. I found myself picking the sailplanes all the time. Something about tooling around unpowered is very appealing to me. I'll read through the thread but if you guys have any advice or caveats let me know.

-Bill
Check the push rods for binding, set the CG at 74mm-77mm, move the clevis on the aileron servo to the outer most hole to get more throw and if the climb rate is too slow for your liking put a 10x8 or 11x6 folding prop on it. That's it.

Rick
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Old Mar 05, 2011, 03:26 PM
Drifting off the reservation..
JumpySticks's Avatar
USA, LA, Broussard
Joined Jan 2011
2,291 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by MAP123 View Post
Good information, thanks for the report on that. I'm thinking I might replace my push rods with Gold-N-Rods, too. I pulled them out and did the sanding thing on the metal rods, but they still seem a little stiff. Also, I feel that they may just rust and bind up again. Let us know how the Gold-N-Rods work out for you.
OK, I have all the controls hooked up and all is well. fine trimming is much improved and the servos sound much happier.

This job was not completely simple. I could not re-use the clevises that came with the plane because the stock rod is a smaller diameter than the threaded ones that comes with the goldn-rods. I used the clevises that came with the set. They are metal and overall I probably added a little bit of weight to the plane. I had to ream out the holes in the control arms because the new clevis posts are bigger than the holes on the stock clevises. The metal clevises are more difficult to operate than the plastic ones that come with the plane, but they will surely never come off. Real stiff spring steel.

In the process I learned a little trick for not losing the screws that hold on the wings. I just snapped them onto the magnet for the bottom hatch. They will not fall off and get lost there. The hatch still snaps semi-shut even with the screws clinging there.
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Old Mar 05, 2011, 03:37 PM
Drifting off the reservation..
JumpySticks's Avatar
USA, LA, Broussard
Joined Jan 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Targetlocman View Post
Hello! I just ordered a Radian pro. Never flew a sailplane before but I have plenty of RC experience. Anyway I got the bug to get a sail plane from using my Aerofly 5.5 sim. I found myself picking the sailplanes all the time. Something about tooling around unpowered is very appealing to me. I'll read through the thread but if you guys have any advice or caveats let me know.

-Bill
Tell the boss you will need to take some time off for Radian treatments.
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Old Mar 05, 2011, 03:48 PM
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Joined Feb 2011
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Gentlemen,

Please humor a noobie to sailplanes and programmable radios.

I have been working to program my DX7 for my Radian Pro per ChuckTseeker's and others on this board's advice. I have got the DX7 setup where the inputs are making the plane do what it's supposed to do.

When I activate camber and reflex via the flap switch, the middle position is supposed to be "neutral" with smooth ailerons and flaps(this is how I understand it, anyway). The right side aileron is slightly high (maybe 4mm) when the flap switch is in the mid position, so I want to trim it back to neutral. I see the DX7 radio has so many options I am confused about the best way to handle this issue. I'm trying to wrap my mind around the following settings and determine the correct way to handle this adjustment:

1. use the "sub trim" feature?
2. use the "travel adjust" feature?
3. use the in-flight trim adjustments?
4. mechanically adjust the linkage at the aileron?

I am new to programmable radios; last time I was into R/C was about 10 years ago and I was flying nitro .40 class planes with a Futaba 4 channel radio. Back then, I would have centered the trim on the radio, and then adjusted the servo link to bring the aileron to neutral. But with all these weird programming options, I am confused about the best way to accomplish this. Any advice from anyone with experience is appreciated.

Greg
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Old Mar 05, 2011, 04:07 PM
Heli's and gliders, what else?
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Nederland, GE, Slijk-Ewijk
Joined Apr 2006
746 Posts
Hi Greg,

Just set your radio in the neutral positions and trim all the clevises/rods by hand till you have them as perfect as you get them.
If there is anything that doesn't adjust itself mechanically you use the subtrim. I'm using an Aurora 9 Tx.
Not much has changed in those 10 years, has it?

I never use the sub trim if not necessary. Neither do I use options 2 and 3.
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Last edited by BarnOwl; Mar 06, 2011 at 02:42 AM.
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Old Mar 05, 2011, 05:11 PM
Registered User
Titusville Fl
Joined Jan 2011
113 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by JumpySticks View Post
Got the Goldn Rods in. Had to ream out the channel to make them flush to the fuselage.

There must be a bend in the channel where it dives under teh surface to go into the servo compartment. The inner rods slide like butter through the outer tube when installing them from the rear....until the last two inches. Then there is a little more resistance. It's much slippier than the wire rods, but not quite as smooth as I would like. Still, my servos will be much happier.


the rudder is more straight..the elevator DOES take a turn. Had no idea what goldn Rods are..googled...very nice. The rod i used was almost identical in size, so it slid right in. I did have to use tape around the hole body at the point where i was having trouble getting it to form to the body. I figured glue would be too much stress on one small point of foam. The tape/glue combo works great. and the difference is impressive.
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Old Mar 05, 2011, 05:13 PM
Build, Fly, Crash then Repeat
flydrive rc's Avatar
United States, VA, Yorktown
Joined Oct 2005
533 Posts
I tried to fly my radian today, it was really windy. The plane handled the wind very well, but I had a hard time getting it to land as the wind picked up.
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Old Mar 05, 2011, 06:08 PM
Gravity is patient............
Joined Mar 2006
1,908 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by hammer833 View Post
Check the push rods for binding, set the CG at 74mm-77mm, move the clevis on the aileron servo to the outer most hole to get more throw and if the climb rate is too slow for your liking put a 10x8 or 11x6 folding prop on it. That's it.

Rick
Thanks Rick. Can't wait to get into it.
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