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Old Dec 28, 2012, 04:47 AM
Arrarrar!
josh18's Avatar
Australia, NSW, Wagga Wagga
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Hey Jim, I have found that rainbow clay works heaps better than splooge to seal your part into the parting board. It will still work with yours. Timbuck has a good video where he applies little clay sausages to the edge then scrapes them off flush with the back of a razor blade. Ive tried it and it works super easily, seating and also sealing your plug in the parting board. Also Ive used cling film and splooge before and the heat of the splooge caused some of the cling wrap to stick to my plugs.
Cheers Jim
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Old Dec 28, 2012, 05:08 AM
Entropy is happening!
Jim.Thompson's Avatar
Australia, NSW, Bellingen
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Quote:
Originally Posted by josh18 View Post
Hey Jim, I have found that rainbow clay works heaps better than splooge to seal your part into the parting board............................Cheers Jim
Josh,
I have never heard of "Rainbow clay" before. What is that? I have some ordinary moulders plasticene that I have used successfully before though.
I might use that again after your reminder of the cling film sticking due to heat etc.

Thanks.
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Old Dec 28, 2012, 06:23 AM
ETS....Energy retention system
timbuck's Avatar
gold coast australia
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You get it from FGI now nuplex..
It's 10x easier and Better than ordinary placticene i used to use...you can hold you plug in place with it , no glad wrap or splooge needed also.

http://www.barnes.com.au/catalog/rai...ea24009c7ce151
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Old Dec 28, 2012, 02:19 PM
Entropy is happening!
Jim.Thompson's Avatar
Australia, NSW, Bellingen
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Quote:
Originally Posted by timbuck View Post
You get it from FGI now nuplex..
It's 10x easier and Better than ordinary placticene i used to use...you can hold you plug in place with it , no glad wrap or splooge needed also.

http://www.barnes.com.au/catalog/rai...ea24009c7ce151
Thanks Tim.
I tried to order it from Barnes, but they have no shipping/postal rates calculator on the site.
Do you mean by the above that I should order it from FGI?
If so, I can get my local FGI agent (Eastland Trade Supplies) to get it in for me. They do get stuff in, but only with some reluctance.

Jim.

edit: I have just found that Nuplex have the same contact details as the previous FGI. No email address contact is given on the website, so I will wait untill the New Year and phone them. I recall that they are not easy to get on the phone too! Not easy to get to talk to someone who knows what they are talking about etc. I think I have the mobile number of the travelling representative for the old FGI though. He was helpful - I will call him in the New Year. - yeah - just found it. Steve Yeo.
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Last edited by Jim.Thompson; Dec 28, 2012 at 02:29 PM. Reason: see edit.
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Old Dec 28, 2012, 05:36 PM
Arrarrar!
josh18's Avatar
Australia, NSW, Wagga Wagga
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Thats the stuff Jim, it comes in a huge block and will last you for ever! Its really nice stuff to work with, very hard at room temp, but roll it in your hands and it goes beautifully smooth....er, you know what I mean
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Old Dec 28, 2012, 06:18 PM
Entropy is happening!
Jim.Thompson's Avatar
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That's sounds like an excellent tip Josh. I'll chase some up in the New Year.
I will not be at moulding stage untill at least the second week in Jan. So no hurry.
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Last edited by Jim.Thompson; Dec 28, 2012 at 06:19 PM. Reason: spelling
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Old Dec 28, 2012, 07:39 PM
Entropy is happening!
Jim.Thompson's Avatar
Australia, NSW, Bellingen
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Indexing pins.

I have fitted the indexing pins into the fuselage joiner holes and indicence pin holes etc.
I don't know what else to call them, anyone got a suggestion?
How is this process of transfer of position of the above usually done? I am sort of finding my own way here, and may well be doing it the hard way.
Been there before!

Jim.

edit: I tried priming one of the steel joiner rod "pimples" using a cotton bud. Not successfull and it made a bit of mess of the nice flat surface I had established on the root after lots of work. I will push them both out and prime them out of the plug. Then when nice and dry, I'll carefully push them in again. I'll rely on the wax and PVA to fill the ring around them.
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Last edited by Jim.Thompson; Dec 28, 2012 at 07:50 PM. Reason: see edit.
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Old Dec 28, 2012, 10:02 PM
Just fly it!
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Cody, WY
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I like to use graphite.
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Old Dec 28, 2012, 11:42 PM
Entropy is happening!
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Originally Posted by wyowindworks View Post
I like to use graphite.
Where Adam? In the mould surface coat mix?
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Old Dec 29, 2012, 07:21 PM
Just fly it!
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Originally Posted by Jimbello View Post
Where Adam? In the mould surface coat mix?
Yep.
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Old Dec 29, 2012, 07:33 PM
Entropy is happening!
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Originally Posted by wyowindworks View Post
Yep.
I thought so Adam.
It has worked extremely well for me.

edit: By the way Adam, have you got any comment to make about post #382 ?
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Last edited by Jim.Thompson; Dec 29, 2012 at 07:35 PM. Reason: See edit.
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Old Dec 29, 2012, 08:03 PM
Arrarrar!
josh18's Avatar
Australia, NSW, Wagga Wagga
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Hey Jim, I just smear some grease on my allignment pins when I make my fuses and they never stick. Maybe this will work with your mould too
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Old Dec 29, 2012, 08:14 PM
Just fly it!
wyowindworks's Avatar
Cody, WY
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jimbello View Post
I have fitted the indexing pins into the fuselage joiner holes and indicence pin holes etc.
I don't know what else to call them, anyone got a suggestion?
How is this process of transfer of position of the above usually done? I am sort of finding my own way here, and may well be doing it the hard way.
Been there before!
.
I would have pins in the holes of the plug that stick out it and then put a drill guide bushing over the pins. I would then make the mold so that the first mold half bonds to the drill guides. The second half would not bond to the drill guide (release agent) since it's on the parting line. When the parts are made an insert would go into the the drill guide to support the bladder. After the part cures you would run a drill bit through the guide and drill holes into the fuse before the part is demolded.
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Old Dec 29, 2012, 08:36 PM
Entropy is happening!
Jim.Thompson's Avatar
Australia, NSW, Bellingen
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wyowindworks View Post
I would have pins in the holes of the plug that stick out it and then put a drill guide bushing over the pins. I would then make the mold so that the first mold half bonds to the drill guides. The second half would not bond to the drill guide (release agent) since it's on the parting line. When the parts are made an insert would go into the the drill guide to support the bladder. After the part cures you would run a drill bit through the guide and drill holes into the fuse before the part is demolded.
Very elegant method Adam!

I don't understand this part of it though:
"The second half would not bond to the drill guide (release agent) since it's on the parting line"
The way I have envisaged it, the second half would be no where near the parting line.
I'm a bit confused. I'm envisaging two drill guide bushes each slid over the joiner bar each side of the fuse up flush with the wing root on the plug. And each of them retained into the mould halves.
Not so?

Jim.
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Old Dec 29, 2012, 10:30 PM
Just fly it!
wyowindworks's Avatar
Cody, WY
Joined Nov 2007
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Oh, sorry, Jim. I see that you are parting the fuse the other way....which is just fine. You would just layup the mold halves around the drill guides.
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