HobbyKing.com New Products Flash Sale
Reply
Thread Tools
Old Sep 19, 2011, 02:16 PM
Addicted to lift
eosglider's Avatar
United States, FL, Miami
Joined Jul 2010
510 Posts
My P2K's motor came glued to a brown disc that I thought should keep heat from melting the plastic at the firewall. Does everyone have that brown disc glued from factory?

Just in case that brown disc is not enough though, I made a plywood firewall insulator with thin ply and I also made cooling holes on both the brown disc and the plywood disc. I plan to put the ply inside the firewall to keep the heat under control and also to hopefully muffle the typical sound resonation that's present on these planes due to the plastic material the fuse is made out of. I'll need to make cooling holes in the fuse firewall to match as well.
eosglider is online now Find More Posts by eosglider
Reply With Quote
Sign up now
to remove ads between posts
Old Sep 19, 2011, 02:18 PM
Not a newbie anymore..
skyhawk newbie's Avatar
Ireland, Cork
Joined Oct 2010
2,027 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Freddan View Post
Have you guys opened up an exit hole for air anywhere in the fuse? It doesnīt matter how much air you try to cram in there if doesnīt have anywhere to exit and create an airflow...
No.....

But now that I think about it,I will . .

Mainly use my Phoenix for slope'n ,so even if I do use the motor ,,
it's only for a very short burst....
skyhawk newbie is offline Find More Posts by skyhawk newbie
Reply With Quote
Old Sep 19, 2011, 02:25 PM
Not a newbie anymore..
skyhawk newbie's Avatar
Ireland, Cork
Joined Oct 2010
2,027 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by salkeld17 View Post
My P2K's motor came glued to a brown disc that I thought should keep heat from melting the plastic at the firewall. Does everyone have that brown disc glued from factory?

Just in case that brown disc is not enough though, I made a plywood firewall insulator with thin ply and I also made cooling holes on both the brown disc and the plywood disc. I plan to put the ply inside the firewall to keep the heat under control and also to hopefully muffle the typical sound resonation that's present on these planes due to the plastic material the fuse is made out of. I'll need to make cooling holes in the fuse firewall to match as well.

I wouldn't be cutting any holes in the firewall it's weak enough as it is,,,
there's vent on either side of the motor..that and some exit vents (as just recommended by Freddan) should be enough...
at the end of the day it's a glider,not a hotliner
limited motor run to get you up,so you can glide.....



.
skyhawk newbie is offline Find More Posts by skyhawk newbie
Reply With Quote
Old Sep 19, 2011, 03:34 PM
Heli's and gliders, what else?
BarnOwl's Avatar
Nederland, GE, Slijk-Ewijk
Joined Apr 2006
747 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Freddan View Post
Have you guys opened up an exit hole for air anywhere in the fuse? It doesnīt matter how much air you try to cram in there if doesnīt have anywhere to exit and create an airflow...
You don't have to: At the back of the fuse there is a hole. Air goes right through.......
BarnOwl is offline Find More Posts by BarnOwl
Reply With Quote
Old Sep 19, 2011, 04:36 PM
Registered User
Sweden
Joined Sep 2007
266 Posts
Wow you're right. I hadn't noticed. It's not a big hole though and the rudder covers it pretty well. Ithink a bigger hole or an extra hole somewhere in the rear would further increase airflow and cooling.
Freddan is offline Find More Posts by Freddan
Reply With Quote
Old Sep 20, 2011, 12:14 AM
It's supposed to fly that way?
Philosan1's Avatar
Spain, AL, Zurgena
Joined Mar 2011
106 Posts
Skyhawk, I'm using the ply-bakelite-cardboard sandwich, as fibreglass is another item hard to get locally! Nearest model store - 140km, and his English is about as good as my Spanish!
You're correct about Panhead or ordinary machine-head M3 bolts, but CSK? Uhuh! I was going to order some from GiantCod (great service!) but with my brother coming out...!
Re cooling vents, how about making a couple of slots in the fuselage behind the wings, and use fbm224's spoons in reverse to create a venturi effect(?) Either that or trim the bottom of the rudder to clear the tail vent a bit!
P.s. Anybody want a kitten? Don't they ever sleep? Arrgh!
Philosan1 is offline Find More Posts by Philosan1
Reply With Quote
Old Sep 20, 2011, 12:32 AM
It's supposed to fly that way?
Philosan1's Avatar
Spain, AL, Zurgena
Joined Mar 2011
106 Posts
...
Philosan1 is offline Find More Posts by Philosan1
Last edited by Philosan1; Sep 21, 2011 at 03:24 PM. Reason: irrelevant!
Reply With Quote
Old Sep 20, 2011, 09:09 AM
Registered User
Australia, SA, Adelaide
Joined May 2011
94 Posts
Hey there guys.
I'm now a proud new owner of one of these puppies and I'm trying to work out what extras I should order to complete my setup.

First thing I will be after is a battery:
Now, is that a "deans" plug in this plane and are such connectors even available on HK? Someone recommended the Turnigy 1300mAh 3S 20C Lipo Pack but the socket seems to be (intentionally?) hidden. Will it be possible to plug in a battery directly or will I need to break out some solder? I'd much prefer to keep the (soldering) iron in the holster if at all possible.

Next I keep reading about how crap the 'clevis's are and after doing a search I would find it impossible to tell a **** clevis from a 'clay' one
Anyone care to post a link to a recommendation?

Next seems to be the Motor and ESC. Would you recommend getting spares of these immediately or wait till they fail just in case I get lucky and get away with the stock? And again, links would be much appreciated. I did see a recomdation for the Turnigy2836 Brushless Outrunner 1000kv and reading the comments people do seem to be raving about it.

I know these questions have been asked many times already but to be honest I've had trouble following the responses.

Many thanks.
S.Bartfast is offline Find More Posts by S.Bartfast
Reply With Quote
Old Sep 20, 2011, 09:50 AM
Heli's and gliders, what else?
BarnOwl's Avatar
Nederland, GE, Slijk-Ewijk
Joined Apr 2006
747 Posts
Hi there, S.Bartfast, You will enjoy this plane a lot!

Quote:
Originally Posted by S.Bartfast View Post
Hey there guys.
I'm now a proud new owner of one of these puppies and I'm trying to work out what extras I should order to complete my setup.

First thing I will be after is a battery:
Now, is that a "deans" plug in this plane and are such connectors even available on HK? Someone recommended the Turnigy 1300mAh 3S 20C Lipo Pack but the socket seems to be (intentionally?) hidden. Will it be possible to plug in a battery directly or will I need to break out some solder? I'd much prefer to keep the (soldering) iron in the holster if at all possible.
Yes, that's a good pack for this plane. All HK packs have the same XT60 plugs. I have a lot of choppers with Deans, so I just got this Male XT60 <-> Female T-Connector ,saves you soldering!
le T-Connector
Quote:
Next I keep reading about how crap the 'clevis's are and after doing a search I would find it impossible to tell a **** clevis from a 'clay' one
Anyone care to post a link to a recommendation?
If you use shrink tape around the clevises there's no need to change them. I am still flying with the same stock clevises.

Quote:
Next seems to be the Motor and ESC. Would you recommend getting spares of these immediately or wait till they fail just in case I get lucky and get away with the stock? And again, links would be much appreciated. I did see a recomdation for the Turnigy2836 Brushless Outrunner 1000kv and reading the comments people do seem to be raving about it.
Yes, that's the one. Change the ESC to a 40 amp one if you are going to use the flaps, which you will!
BarnOwl is offline Find More Posts by BarnOwl
Reply With Quote
Old Sep 20, 2011, 09:57 AM
Not a newbie anymore..
skyhawk newbie's Avatar
Ireland, Cork
Joined Oct 2010
2,027 Posts
A 5amp UBEC would be a good investment aswell... as your running 6 servo's ...

2200mah Li-Po if you want longer run time . .

..
skyhawk newbie is offline Find More Posts by skyhawk newbie
Reply With Quote
Old Sep 20, 2011, 11:28 AM
Registered User
Australia, SA, Adelaide
Joined May 2011
94 Posts
Thanks guys.
And man, I wish I knew about those "XT60 <-> Female T-Connecto"s before. That would have saved me a fair bit of hacking the other week


Is one 40A ESC much like any other?
The cheapest one that says 40A is the Hobbyking SS Series 40-50A ESC, which seemed to draw favorable enough comments.

Same for the UBEC?
Chepest 5A with posative reviews is the HobbyKing HKU5 5V/5A UBEC. Will that do?

I'm not planing to go for flaps just yet (I've only flown a radian before so need to get a handle on the ailerons first ).
Given I won't be using flaps I was considering leaving the ESC and UBEC off but there only $15(ish) so figure I might as well.

Also, I know you said not to worry about the clevis' BarnOwl but the Nylon Clevis M2 L23 (10sets) look good and there only a buck-fiddy.

So my order is looking like:
Nylon Clevis M2 L23 (10sets)
Turnigy 1300mAh 3S 20C Lipo Pack
Male XT60 <-> Female T-Connector
HobbyKing HKU5 5V/5A UBEC
Hobbyking SS Series 40-50A ESC
Turnigy2836 Brushless Outrunner 1000kv

How about servos for the flaps? Could I just cannibalize my Radion?

I also saw neat the beginning of this thread someone recommended the Turnigy 130A Watt Meter and Power Analyzer but I see there out of stock. Would you say it's worth putting on backorder or do you think I'm safe with what I have?
S.Bartfast is offline Find More Posts by S.Bartfast
Reply With Quote
Old Sep 20, 2011, 12:30 PM
Not a newbie anymore..
skyhawk newbie's Avatar
Ireland, Cork
Joined Oct 2010
2,027 Posts
Buy some male / female XT60 .. All hobbyking Li-Po's come with XT60's fitted,so youll need one for the ESC...
How about servos for the flaps? HXT900 9g Servo's all round..

Could I just cannibalize my Radian?
Are you for real.. Keep your Radian in one piece . . .

WattMeter..you don't need to buy one ( for now ) we've done all the hard work , in finding out what prop works best..

Hobbyking don't sell a 9x6, which is a good match for the 2836 motor
but do sell a 9x5 prop. .

.
skyhawk newbie is offline Find More Posts by skyhawk newbie
Reply With Quote
Old Sep 20, 2011, 03:07 PM
Registered User
France
Joined Sep 2011
101 Posts
Hi fellow phoenix riders


Got this glider for around one month and got around 10 flyes. For the moment with the stock motor (which is sometime hot) and ESC (upgrades are somewhere between HK and my home ).





It fly good for a starter but I quickly found it a bit lazy, especialy on ailerons. For exemple doing a barrel is nearly imposible because really slow (around 5 seconds...).

So I modelised it on PredimRC (a conception tool) and it predicted a GC of 80mm (at 3%) to 85mm (0%) versus 70+-5 on the notice, and a "V longitudinal" of ~1,5° (measured 4,3° on the plane), so I decided to thrust the tool and I start by changing the GC... It was not so easy because the Lipo needs to be moved backward by around 15cm to match the new GC, so the battery holder is now useless and removed.

The result in flight was not spectacular but the fly is more natural and the barrel achievable (around 3s) but it fall hard when inverted, so the V longitudinal (sorry dont know the translation for this) need to be flattened.

Will keep you informed after this modifcation.
traumkumy is offline Find More Posts by traumkumy
Last edited by traumkumy; Sep 20, 2011 at 03:23 PM.
Reply With Quote
Old Sep 20, 2011, 03:18 PM
Registered User
France
Joined Sep 2011
101 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by salkeld17 View Post
My P2K's motor came glued to a brown disc that I thought should keep heat from melting the plastic at the firewall. Does everyone have that brown disc glued from factory?

Seems I got it aswell, looks like a factory mod for melted firewall...
traumkumy is offline Find More Posts by traumkumy
Reply With Quote
Old Sep 20, 2011, 03:25 PM
Not a newbie anymore..
skyhawk newbie's Avatar
Ireland, Cork
Joined Oct 2010
2,027 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by traumkumy View Post
Lipo needs to be moved backward by around 15cm to match the new GC, so the battery holder is now useless and removed..


Why didn't you just move the battery tray back
towards the rear of the fuse..
remove the screw's,then slide the battery tray back to where you want it
and re-screwing the screw's through the fuse, into the battery tray......


..
skyhawk newbie is offline Find More Posts by skyhawk newbie
Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools

Similar Threads
Category Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
For Sale HK Phoenix 2000 glider blk822 Aircraft - Electric - Airplanes (FS/W) 4 Aug 23, 2011 07:21 PM
Discussion Still having electric problems with my hobbyking Phoenix 2000, Crashvideo kyrkbymannen Electric Sailplanes 3 Jul 09, 2011 07:34 PM
Discussion Ohhh noo, 2nd flight on the HobbyKing Phoenix 2000 KillerCut Electric Sailplanes 14 Jun 06, 2011 09:57 AM
Discussion hobby king Phoenix 2000 EPO Composite R/C Glider doomracing Electric Sailplanes 3 May 31, 2011 10:09 PM