If you are willing to spend that much, look for a Castle Creations 10 amp BEC. You should find it for around $20.

http://www.castlecreations.com/products/ccbec.html

Originally Posted by F-111 John

If you are willing to spend that much, look for a Castle Creations 10 amp BEC. You should find it for around $20.

http://www.castlecreations.com/products/ccbec.html

Thanks for all the info and help....

Originally Posted by F-111 John

Unless you're going to do full span ailerons, you won't be using the two flap servos very often, so you can probably get away with just the ESC's BEC. The ESC's BEC should handle four 9 gram servos no problem.

If you plan to use the flap servos as full span ailerons in addition to being flaps, then 6 is too many servos moving all the time for the ESC's BEC. Then you should go with a stand alone switching BEC.

John,

What's 'full span ailerons'? Do you mean the aileron and the flap surfaces move in sync?

OK. I can answer my own question now. Probably not something I want.

Originally Posted by jsec1992

John,

What's 'full span ailerons'? Do you mean the aileron and the flap surfaces move in sync?

For the benefit of others, here is a post on the Radian Pro thread showing someone who programmed full span ailerons on his Radian Pro:

Futaba 9C Super Full-House Glider Setup With the ParkZone Radian Pro (1 min 17 sec)

I'm useing a Spektrum DX5e Tx with AR500 Rx
What I was hopeing to do was set the flap only to use when landing..
Useing the landing gear switch.... if this is possible....

I wont know untill I get my servo's...

Sure it's possible. It looks like the flap servo pockets for your plane are like those for the Radian Pro, which is to say that both servos install with the servo arms facing to the right (when viewed from behind, otherwise known as starboard.)

Just use a servo y-cord to connect both flap servos to your receiver's channel 5, which is the gear channel. Adjust your servo linkages so that the servo travel doesn't over-extend the flaps.

Should be a piece of cake.

Originally Posted by F-111 John

Sure it's possible. It looks like the flap servo pockets for your plane are like those for the Radian Pro, which is to say that both servos install with the servo arms facing to the right (when viewed from behind, otherwise known as starboard.)

Just use a servo y-cord to connect both flap servos to your receiver's channel 5, which is the gear channel. Adjust your servo linkages so that the servo travel doesn't over-extend the flaps.

Should be a piece of cake.

Thanks John ,
Your a gent and have been very helpful..
Sean

You've got to give us all a detailed maiden report!

Originally Posted by F-111 John

You've got to give us all a detailed maiden report!

I will as soon as I get my parts from HobbyKing....

Ordered mine from HobbyKing this weekend but its still back ordered

so I stuffed up and brought the R2 hobbies ARF version, thinking it was the same as the HK bind and fly! (they are both the same price- so at first glance, and since the r2 hobbies photos showed servos I assumed they were the same.)

Anyway - any recommendations for a cheep motor? thin is going to be a float plane in salt water. Previously i have had success waterproofing everything else, but the motors don't last too long- usually the bearings go.
so suggestions of a cheep HK motor that i can be prepared to replace regularly would be appreciated.

Cheers

Originally Posted by jason128

so I stuffed up and brought the R2 hobbies ARF version, thinking it was the same as the HK bind and fly! (they are both the same price- so at first glance, and since the r2 hobbies photos showed servos I assumed they were the same.)

Anyway - any recommendations for a cheep motor? thin is going to be a float plane in salt water. Previously i have had success waterproofing everything else, but the motors don't last too long- usually the bearings go.
so suggestions of a cheep HK motor that i can be prepared to replace regularly would be appreciated.

Cheers

I did the same thing ,thinking I was buying BnF...
Didn't want the RTF one
But I would of swapped out all the servo's anyhow...
So I'm not to botherd about it....
and the mailing charger was cheaper for me..

This is the running gear I'll be useing in mine..
From HobbyKing

FS40-4.0 . Folding Prop Spinner 40mm / 4.0mm shaft..

TGS10x6F . TGS 10x6F Precision Folding propeller..

T2836-1000 . Turnigy2836 Brushless Outrunner 1000kv..

HKESC35A . H-KING 35A Fixed Wing Brushless Speed Controler..

HXT900 . HXT900 9g / 1.6kg / .12sec Micro Servo x 6..

T2200.3S.20 .Turnigy 2200mAh 3S 20C Lipo Pack..

And from a Hobby Store in the UK
Hobbywing 3amp UBEC..

..

Hi all I also ordered mine!I am so stoked,it should be here in a couple of days.Since i wasnt sure for the prop size, I ordered a spare 12x8 prop.Do you think its too big for the stock motor?I thought it would be a good idea to replace the motor with a 900kv, but I am not sure...Any thoughts and suggestions welcome,since I am a newbie,actually returning to rc flying after a 15 year absence...

As adviced before , I've finally got a Watt meter..
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dproduct=10080

It arrived yesterday along with my parts from HobbyKing

So today I spent my time fitting all the running gear into
my Pheonix 2000 Glider..

Then used the Watt meter...

with the 10x6 Prop ,I was getting a reading of (on WOT) 445w Max at 32Amp draw....
( Motor was Very hot to the touch after a 30 sec run)

With a 9x5 Prop, I was getting a reading of 245Watt Max at 22Amp .( WOT)
This was on Throttle only ,no servo's used on test...

So it would be better useing the 9x5 prop
with T2836-1000 . Turnigy2836 Brushless Outrunner 1000kv..

On the other hand, if only using it for a climb out for a relatively short time,
you can probably use the 10" if you don't keep it at full throttle in a steep climb.
The 9" gives that margin of safety.


Hopefully I'll get to maiden it tomorrow.....

Sean