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Old Jan 29, 2013, 11:48 PM
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The 2826-1000 is indeed a fantastic powerfull motor, but it fals a bit into the heavy part..

In my phoenix it made it quite nose heavy.. to the point that if using a 2200 battery i have to put it all way back to keep it just a bit nose heavy and had to buy a 1000 and 1500mAh batts to ballance it better in low lift conditions (less endurance, but they save you 100 and 70g each)..
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Old Feb 01, 2013, 06:13 AM
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Hi, and thank you all for so much info and experience in the Phoenix 2000. I just ordered the ARF version and couldn't put some lipos in the same shipment so I have to make another one for the electronics.
So. to my question. I've understood the consensus about the motor choice is the Turnigy 2836 1000kv. It's on BK so as I have the Turnigy 3530 / 1100kv in another bird and am very satisfied with it I thought the Turnigy 2836 1100kv (http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...Search=d2836/8) could be an alternative, what do you guys think? Or is the 950kv a better choice? To be run with a 40A Plush esc
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Old Feb 01, 2013, 12:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Flahultarn View Post
Hi, and thank you all for so much info and experience in the Phoenix 2000. I just ordered the ARF version and couldn't put some lipos in the same shipment so I have to make another one for the electronics.
So. to my question. I've understood the consensus about the motor choice is the Turnigy 2836 1000kv. It's on BK so as I have the Turnigy 3530 / 1100kv in another bird and am very satisfied with it I thought the Turnigy 2836 1100kv (http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...Search=d2836/8) could be an alternative, what do you guys think? Or is the 950kv a better choice? To be run with a 40A Plush esc
where did you order the ARF from ? I ask because the arf i got had the motor and everything except the battery,and the RX.
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Old Feb 01, 2013, 02:08 PM
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Fr.o.m. Hobbyking, it says that all electronics are "required" so I thought it is a frame only. I might be wrong...
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=17227, was it the same kit you got?
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Old Feb 01, 2013, 07:53 PM
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Fr.o.m. Hobbyking, it says that all electronics are "required" so I thought it is a frame only. I might be wrong...
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=17227, was it the same kit you got?
Ahhh you are correct, it has gotten confusing as to what a arf is anymore.. i got mine off of ebay but it was $149.00 not $59
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Old Feb 02, 2013, 08:23 AM
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Ahhh you are correct, it has gotten confusing as to what a arf is anymore.. i got mine off of ebay but it was $149.00 not $59
I ended up at about the same $ as you, picking the setup I wanted. Including some different props to try out and see what makes the best combo.

This is my first glider so I'm very excited. I'm aiming to build it to be a FPV-plattform later on so I intend to move the ele/rud servos to the tail as Ilipin has done. However, he's using the tiny 3,7 gram servos I think, but I'm doubtful if they really will do the job for the elevator, or the rudder. I see many of you are using the HXT900/TGY 9 for elevator which I assume is fine, otherwise it should be discussed I suppose.

For a glider, generally speaking, which control surface are under most stress needing the strongest servos?
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Old Feb 02, 2013, 09:58 AM
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I ended up at about the same $ as you, picking the setup I wanted. Including some different props to try out and see what makes the best combo.

This is my first glider so I'm very excited. I'm aiming to build it to be a FPV-plattform later on so I intend to move the ele/rud servos to the tail as Ilipin has done. However, he's using the tiny 3,7 gram servos I think, but I'm doubtful if they really will do the job for the elevator, or the rudder. I see many of you are using the HXT900/TGY 9 for elevator which I assume is fine, otherwise it should be discussed I suppose.

For a glider, generally speaking, which control surface are under most stress needing the strongest servos?
im not an expert,but i think the elevator and ailerons should have strongest servos,i put 17g metal gear servos on mine, got them here and have had zero problems so far. http://epbuddy.com/index.php?main_pa...1rtbpiqtiv1uv7
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Old Feb 02, 2013, 07:20 PM
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I see many of you are using the HXT900/TGY 9 for elevator which I assume is fine?
the HXT900's should be fine for FPV use and they won't weigh down your tail very much if you choose to re-locate them. Post pics of your FPV set-up when you get it going.
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Old Feb 03, 2013, 03:44 AM
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Originally Posted by fastfwd View Post
im not an expert,but i think the elevator and ailerons should have strongest servos,i put 17g metal gear servos on mine...
Holy mackeral, ff. Those are some serious servos. I don't think there's any danger of stripping those or not having enough power to move a rudder/elevator.

I've used 9g servos (both metal gear, and nylon gear) and have never stripped a servo or had a failure. The Parkzone Radian Pro uses analog nylon gear 9 gram servos for the ailerons, rudder, elevator, and metal gear 9g digital servos for the flaps. Most Radian Pros buzz while sitting there idling, a normal occurrence with digital servos apparently.

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Old Feb 03, 2013, 07:36 AM
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I've used 9g servos (both metal gear, and nylon gear) and have never stripped a servo or had a failure. The Parkzone Radian Pro uses analog nylon gear 9 gram servos for the ailerons, rudder, elevator, and metal gear 9g digital servos for the flaps. Most Radian Pros buzz while sitting there idling, a normal occurrence with digital servos apparently.
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I put 2 analog 13 grams MG in the order aimed for the elev/rudder but I think I just changed my mind putting them for the flaps instead while thinking of it. Lowering flaps will put constant stress to the servo so finally I realize what it's about. 9 g standard for the rest.

I made a mistake in the motor choice , ordered this one http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...ner_Motor.html cause I have another in the series that is a really nice motor. But forgot that the shaft is going the wrong way. And it's not an easy mod to reverse it, unfortunately. I will try to make HK swap motor for me. If I'm lucky it will not be too late for that. But,

the recommended Turnigy 2836 1000kv is BK, however I found this, Tgy Aerodrive SK3 3530/1150kv(http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...ner_Motor.html), but will it fit in the fuse? It's 37 mm diameter! I've seen others using 35 mm saying it is on the limit... Seems to be a nice motor. If the SK3 28XX had 4 mm shaft there are some nice but I really want 4 mm shaft (bent too many...)

Any advice will be apreciated=)

// Per
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Old Feb 03, 2013, 12:45 PM
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Holy mackeral, ff. Those are some serious servos. I don't think there's any danger of stripping those or not having enough power to move a rudder/elevator.

I've used 9g servos (both metal gear, and nylon gear) and have never stripped a servo or had a failure. The Parkzone Radian Pro uses analog nylon gear 9 gram servos for the ailerons, rudder, elevator, and metal gear 9g digital servos for the flaps. Most Radian Pros buzz while sitting there idling, a normal occurrence with digital servos apparently.

--
Greg
you are correct ! they are way more than needed, and being the old fart i am i just realized it is the Super Sky Surfer i put those big heavy duty servos in,not my light Phoenix lol ... As a matter of fact the servos in it are the stock ones. Sorry for the miss information..
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Old Feb 04, 2013, 08:59 AM
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Im thinking in reversing the servo tray so servos sit lower and i can sit the Rx better (now is burried down bellow the servos hard to reach)

is it easy or requieres some special moding? i guess i should glue some balsa struts to support the pushrods
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Old Feb 04, 2013, 09:17 AM
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Originally Posted by JLT_GTI View Post
Im thinking in reversing the servo tray so servos sit lower and i can sit the Rx better (now is burried down bellow the servos hard to reach)

is it easy or requieres some special moding? i guess i should glue some balsa struts to support the pushrods
JLT, as far as flipping the servo tray upside down, there's nothing to it other than unscrewing 4 screws, flipping it over, and screwing it back in. I don't recall having to extend any pushrods or adding wood to support them. Not sure what you're thinking there.

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Old Feb 04, 2013, 02:03 PM
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Originally Posted by JLT_GTI View Post
Im thinking in reversing the servo tray so servos sit lower and i can sit the Rx better (now is burried down bellow the servos hard to reach)

is it easy or requieres some special moding? i guess i should glue some balsa struts to support the pushrods
I used a small bit of EPP to help secure the pushrods so they were free from any binding. Balsa would work as well.
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Old Feb 05, 2013, 11:21 AM
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phoenix 2000 flaps

Only three flights and the flap hinges have started parting company with the wing on both sides maybe about 2" or so, has anyone else had this, No bad landings so no reason for this other than bad materials
bob
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