JLT ... A p.s. to my last post ...
You noted that you've glued the actual hinge to the fuselage, which presumably means that your tail assembly is now permanently fixed to the fuselage? Probably it would never actually need to be removed of course, but would be handy if either the tailplane or fin were damaged to be able to remove them for replacement ... always assuming that spare parts are available somewhere.
In the meantime, whie waiting ... still ... for my servos to come from H/king ... slow shipping/mail, 'cos they've left the warehouse ... I've decided to do another, this time non-essential mod. to the servo and Rx mount, to make the Rx position at the rear of the mount, in a container box. The servos will also be removable as a pair on two cross fuselage mounts, now mounted slightly futher forward from their original position. Just a personal preference, because there is really nothing essentially wrong with the original tray. ... And I just had the time to do it.
In retrospect I should have bought the more compete version, that comes with everything, and binned all the poor quality bits and pieces, because I still think the basic airframe is a reasonably good one and looks quite attractive when it's assembled ... And definitely can't be beaten on price!

Hmmmm ... While waiting for the glue to dry on the servo tray ... (No I don't use Cyano for most of my woodwork ... Weldbond may be a bit slower, but has a fast grab, but still gives sufficient time for corrective re-positioning.)
I digressed ... sorry ... I read back through this tread, and several others related to the Phoenix, and despite a couple of posts advising that the model is perfectly good as it comes out of the box ... And to those happy campers I say that I'm glad you're happy with it as is ... BUT there were many more relating to failures in relation to both the O.E. motors and ESCs, mainly overheating, which has also caused softening and failure in the motor mount area in the fuselage nose.
This has caused me to state again that to make this model viable, and even safe to fly ... I'm referring here in particular to those dreadful clevises, which should be binned immediately and replaced ... which would make the aircaft at least airworthy ... well at least for as long as the motor and/or ESC lasts! ... then mods, similar to those I've effected to both the motor mount, and adding a hinge to the bottom section of the rudder are essential, together with replacing both the motor, and the ESC with at least a 40A switching BEC unit, if it is intended using six servos.
Anyway ... Glue's dried, I'm off back to the workbench.
Daffy.

Yes its now glued to the fuse .. but its ok since the tail feathers were allready glued to the fuse.. i didnt liked the small play they had with the stock bolts so i epoxyed the horizontal stab (wich the vertical stab bolted)..

My other glider is a SIG Ninja wich is an all plywood/balsa/foam cores plane and thats all permanently glued .. in fact if you want to acess inside (wich i had to do some times due to crashes) you have to "operate" ..and this is the standard in some planes ..its anoying ..but that birs sure looks undestructible in the air no mather how hard you pull Gs

From what I've been able to "recently" piece together on the motor mount situation I'm gonna guess that Lanyu has not only updated their 2.6 big boy but possibly the 2m as well as noted in posts above #2141, 2142, 2146

Ck out Ali's vid on 2.6 new motor mount. Also read in his notes below the video he makes mention - quote "It seems like they have finally resolve the issue with this new motor setup that they put on Phoenix Evolution glider and OTHER (2m model?) gliders."

Lanyu Phoenix Evolution Glider Motor melting fuselage issue fixed (9 min 0 sec)

Take it for what it's worth boys (& girls) it looks like the guys "down under" are the first (maybe because they're closer to China than we are) to get the 2m "V2" and the rest of us are and we're just gonna have to wait our turn in line. Please - NO CUTS!

maca55 & Biggles51

Where did you guys buy your Phoenix 2000? I'm guessin H.K? If so I wonder when the U.S.A. warehouse is gonna run their V1 inventory out & stock the V2?

Originally Posted by NorCal

maca55 & Biggles51

Where did you guys buy your Phoenix 2000? I'm guessin H.K? If so I wonder when the U.S.A. warehouse is gonna run their V1 inventory out & stock the V2?

So what motor mount came with the V1 version? I thought all of them (2m and my Evolution) came with motor, pcb board, wood, round fuselage mount, more wood, and finally metal and then the spinner/prop.

Ali's shows some cool stuff from China but that video is stupid. He flies around once and says - Look, no problems! They fixed it!

Hoosier, I could have it all wrong and maybe all of them are set up the way yours is but from what I saw in Ali's vid his had the latest update motor mount? I just want to sort this all out before I lay down the $ and have to do a front end mod.

G'day all you P2K devotees ...
Hmmm ... Dunno if my ARF P2K is a V2 version, 'cos I bought it from HKG, because the SYD w/h was Nil Stock ... although I think they've got some more in now ... as they sent me an email reminder ... six times in a row ...
Anyway, I don't know what's been done to the motor mount on the inside of Ali's fuselage, but from the outside it looks very little different from the O.E. motor mount hardware that came with my model.
I had already decided to scrap & bin this stuff anyway because of info gleaned from a good few earlier P2K posts, and rebuilt the motor mount to give far better heat insulation, and strengthen that very thin plastic firewall ... ref. post 2228 ... which shows pretty well what I did.
I note here that Ali's motor still got very hot, and does not bode well for that easily softened plastic fuselage nose area. ... He pulled his finger away PDQ
Having noted that, and as there should be at least double the area for exit air holes as inlet slots, I reckon that additional cooling air exit holes would have to be added in addition to that very small cooling air exit hole right at the back of the fuselage.
This has now been modified on my fuselage, opening out that hole almost completely, only leaving sufficient tail post required for the new lower rudder hinge ... which I posted about some time later.
I intend opening up the slot in the bracket between the two tail-group mounting screws as well, and in addition perhaps a slot cut in the canopy towards the back end.
Also if I can get a couple of cut down plastic spoons to stick to the fuselage, I'll be adding them to the original inlet holes too, to assist in directing cooling air inside! ... these spoon inlets, which I noted in someone's earlier post, can go some way to cure the prop blade catching in the canopy as well.
Now that I've received my servos from HKG ... very slow shipping ... not their fault ... I'll be modifying their lead lengths to suit the four wing servos, which will hopefully mean the darned thing will be somewhere closer to getting finished ... and then programmed. I've never known an ARF to take so long to be put together!
So unless something else comes up, I'll lay off posting until it is!
Daffy.

Originally Posted by NorCal

maca55 & Biggles51

Where did you guys buy your Phoenix 2000? I'm guessin H.K? If so I wonder when the U.S.A. warehouse is gonna run their V1 inventory out & stock the V2?

PNF bought from HK Aus warehouse Nov-2011

Originally Posted by HoosierGuy

So what motor mount came with the V1 version? I thought all of them (2m and my Evolution) came with motor, pcb board, wood, round fuselage mount, more wood, and finally metal and then the spinner/prop.

Cross section through motor mount from inside to out (as shipped) was:

Motor -> PCB -> Wood -> Plastic(fuse) -> Metal Plate

Note NO WOOD outside. It looks like there are at least three versions of the motor mount sandwich:

V1: Motor -> PCB -> Plastic(fuse) -> Metal Plate

Users added their own Wood plate to the inside, http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...&postcount=318, before the kit started shipping with the wood pre-installed:

V2: Motor -> PCB -> Wood -> Plastic(fuse) -> Metal Plate

And now it seems there is a third variation:

V3: Motor -> PCB -> Wood -> Plastic(fuse) -> Wood -> Metal Plate

The V3 obviously comes with a down side of less prop shaft length for the collet to grip and an increased likelihood of loosing your spinner.

What Lanyu really need to do is produce a V4 with a motor/prop combo that does not overheat as severely as the current.

Versions aside, I'm of the opinion that it's more important HOW you use the motor than WHAT version of the mount you have. If your motor is getting that hot that you need an extra layer of wood on the outside (V3) to insulate the plastic from the metal plate (which is only heated by the motor screws!), then surely it is just a matter of time before your motor loses performance or dies completely?

So how hot is too hot for a motor?

Originally Posted by maca55

So how hot is too hot for a motor?

I find that generally, when the magnets melt, you have got it too hot

I'll leave quietly now!

r
.

Originally Posted by maca55

PNF bought from HK Aus warehouse Nov-2011
So how hot is too hot for a motor?

Isn't "Too hot to hold your finger on it." 60 degrees C?

I would think that was just about hot enough.

I have left the daylight world and entered the night world!!! No, I'm not a vampire. I'm a NIGHT FLYER!!!

I put LEDS on my glider. I spent three hours or so soldering wires last night and toinght I flew my Phoenix Evolution when the sun
was going down. After a few minutes up the sun was down and it was dark. A few cars slowed down to take a look too! It was a really
neat and new experience and I'm hooked, more night flying! More LEDs!

Phoenix Evolution from General Hobby in California had the V3 motor mounts. Ordered it in August 2012. I went motorless on my glider so never used any of it.

I'm glad I got my new motor - Turnigy 2836 1000kv. It does have a 4mm shaft. I've not had my spinner/prop fly off it yet. Do larger shafts (diameter) offer better grip for spinners?

Originally Posted by HoosierGuy

I'm glad I got my new motor - Turnigy 2836 1000kv. It does have a 4mm shaft. I've not had my spinner/prop fly off it yet. Do larger shafts (diameter) offer better grip for spinners?

The 2836-1000 (Wich is actually more like 1200-1400kv) comes with its own 4mm collet adaptor.. wich you can swap with the piece in the stock propeller cone.. thats what i did and so far never had problems .. simply replace the piece wich grabs the shaft with the one that comes with the 2836-1000