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Old Aug 29, 2012, 03:24 PM
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United States, IN
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Originally Posted by bamoore01 View Post
Yea, I kinda thought about all this kind of stuff after. During was just a screaming streak in the sky. Happened way too fast.

Sorry to hear about that. I'm from Indianian too (near Terre Haute). My first crash with my Phoenix Evolution happened way too fast too. I was going for 1000 feet and nearly reached it (196 or so) when I started to bring it down and for some reason I lost orientation and simply could not regain control. I think it was purely my fault but I'm not sure. I was still a fresh newbie back then. But my glider hit the ground not straight down but almost straight into the ground. I ended up fiber-glassing the nose and as you can see from my last post, I need to fix the motor mount/nose again.
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Old Aug 29, 2012, 04:08 PM
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United States, IN, Bloomington
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Originally Posted by HoosierGuy View Post
Sorry to hear about that. I'm from Indianian too (near Terre Haute). My first crash with my Phoenix Evolution happened way too fast too. I was going for 1000 feet and nearly reached it (196 or so) when I started to bring it down and for some reason I lost orientation and simply could not regain control. I think it was purely my fault but I'm not sure. I was still a fresh newbie back then. But my glider hit the ground not straight down but almost straight into the ground. I ended up fiber-glassing the nose and as you can see from my last post, I need to fix the motor mount/nose again.
Do you have any slopes to fly over there? We got nothing in Bloomington.
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Old Aug 29, 2012, 05:38 PM
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Originally Posted by bamoore01 View Post
Do you have any slopes to fly over there? We got nothing in Bloomington.


I'm not that advanced yet. So I can't really answer that. Sorry. Nice to know I'm no the only one flying a Phoenix in Indiana.
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Old Aug 29, 2012, 05:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Little Black Duck View Post
P.S. for HoosierGuy ... Despite my scathing criticism in my last post.... check out my post 219, which may explain my motor mount mod a little better.
May help ... Won't hurt! .
Daffy.


Thanks for that. The inside of the motor mount already had a layer of fiberglass on it. I did not have a complete layer of fiberglass on the front though, and that is what came off last night. So today I put on a new layer completely over the nose and I will cut out/drill out the holes after it gets hard and the smell goes away. I think it will work. The part of my fuselage that is completely wrapped with fiberglass is rock hard. This new layer should make the nose rock hard.

I did notice when I ran up the motor last night that it got hot and very quickly too. After I ran it up to full throttle for few seconds and noticed the motor mount coming lose, I shut it down and brought it back inside and unscrewed the motor. It was hot and stayed very warm for many minutes after I took it out.
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Old Aug 29, 2012, 08:27 PM
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Thornleigh - 20k N of Sydney,N.S.W.,AUSTRALIA
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G'day Ted ... Have to allow for the time difference ... Oz to the other side of the US 1030am 30Aug here now.
Will be working on the 'missing' Rudder hinge mod today, and will get back to you saspo ... if it works.
I'll look back through my posts in the dim distant past, as to how to attach a photo to a posted item. ... which may make things clearer, we'll see ... together with my successful motor mount mod down t'other end.
I was going to say 'How do you attach a picture to a post' ... but got some ribald suggestions, back then, that a thumbtack would probably work!
Daffy.
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Old Aug 30, 2012, 12:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Little Black Duck View Post
P.S. for HoosierGuy ... Despite my scathing criticism in my last post.... check out my post 219, which may explain my motor mount mod a little better.
May help ... Won't hurt! .
Daffy.


When you talk about "ply" what exactly is that? Fiberglass? A sheet of fiberglass?
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Old Aug 30, 2012, 01:01 AM
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Thornleigh - 20k N of Sydney,N.S.W.,AUSTRALIA
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HoosierGuy
Ply is wooden plywood, usually comprising 3 or more plys of birch, or light pine, depending on the type. Most plywoods used in the building industry are far too heavy for use in model aircraft.
Definitely the best type for our use is ... would you believe ... Aircraft Ply, and can be obtained in thicknesses a thin as 0.4mm or about 1/64".
Later in this thread I hope to include some photos of both my ply motor mount mod, and the mod to include the 'missing' lower rudder hinge ... had a minor hiccup with this, which is taking a little time to correct! But still uses the original concept I've dreamed up, which will hopefully work as expected.
Daffy.
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Old Aug 30, 2012, 02:03 AM
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Thornleigh - 20k N of Sydney,N.S.W.,AUSTRALIA
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Photos of mods to Little Black Duck's P2K

G'day all,
Following some instructions from some time ago on how attaching photos to a post ed item is done...
Here are some photos ... I hope they're clear enough ... of the motor mount mod. to my P2K, which, will hopefully be clearer than my description in a couple of my earlier posts. The outide ply disc which is obviously the actual motor mount, will be cleaned up a little to blend it into the fuselage outline, and painted white to match.
Daffy.
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Old Aug 30, 2012, 02:34 AM
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Originally Posted by Little Black Duck View Post
G'day all,
Following some instructions from some time ago on how attaching photos to a post ed item is done...
Here are some photos ... I hope they're clear enough ... of the motor mount mod. to my P2K, which, will hopefully be clearer than my description in a couple of my earlier posts. The outide ply disc which is obviously the actual motor mount, will be cleaned up a little to blend it into the fuselage outline, and painted white to match.
Daffy.


Thanks for the pics. Nice! How do you seal/glue the inner mount to the inside fuselage?
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Old Aug 30, 2012, 03:00 AM
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Thornleigh - 20k N of Sydney,N.S.W.,AUSTRALIA
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G'day again HoosierGuy,

Now you know what Ply is ... right? One picture is worth a thousand words .. Ho Hum!

Remembering that virtually no glue that I've found so far actually bonds with the P2K's fuselage, I used contact cement ... which I think may actually work ... thinned a little with general Purpose Automotive Thinners, to tack, and hopefully glue that inside former to the plastic, although I was aleays going to rely on the four scews to hold everything together. It would have been difficult to hold that inner ring-shaped former in place otherwise.
The glue is allowed to almost dry out, and the former carefully positioned, because once it makes contact ... hence the name ... under normal conditions, working with regular wooden surfaces and laminates, it's almost impossible to move.
Hope this helps ...
Daffy.
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Old Aug 30, 2012, 07:05 AM
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Originally Posted by HoosierGuy View Post
I'm not that advanced yet. So I can't really answer that. Sorry. Nice to know I'm no the only one flying a Phoenix in Indiana.
Ummmm. With the recent change in the part count of mine, you may be.
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Old Aug 30, 2012, 04:15 PM
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United States, IN
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I put on a sheet of fiberglass on the nose yesterday. I was going to let it dry and leave it alone for three days while I work and get back to it Sunday night. But it did get hard quick and last night I decided to put my motor on and see what happens. The nose is solid but when I went to full power the motor vibrated. I think because the nose firewall is uneven. Anyway, after I re-arranged the firewall sandwich and shoo-glued one of those thin pieces of wood that comes with it, I ran my motor up and it held good. I tried it again today and ran it up to full throttle and it held steady. I do worry about heat though. I've not got much protection between the motor and fiberglass firewall. I wonder, does fiberglass weaken when it gets hot?

I also put my cheap watt meter to this motor. At full throttle it ran up to around 275 watts (max is rated at 300 watts) and 24 amps or so. So at full throttle it does not reach its limit. I think I will set my Dx6i so I can't go full throttle. Maybe reduce my top throttle range down to 90% to give this motor/firewall a little protection.

We are due for rain on Sunday but hopefully I can fly my glider if the rain stops. Monday is looking clear. If the flight goes well I'm going to put on those big wings and start flying the big version.

I also have a EPP flying wing coming this weekend. After a week of flying that I'm going to order some led lights and make the wing or my Phoenix a night flyer/UFO!
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Old Aug 30, 2012, 04:16 PM
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United States, IN
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Originally Posted by bamoore01 View Post
Ummmm. With the recent change in the part count of mine, you may be.


Sorry to hear you say that. I've been in some big crashes myself and have managed to fix the nose/fuselage with fiberglass.
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Old Aug 31, 2012, 06:12 AM
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Gold Coast Australia
Joined Sep 2010
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Ztrem,
would be very interested to see how your film laminating works out.
LBD,
My experience has been totally the opposite to yours. I have had probably over 50 flights.
Its still totally stock and mate I flog it...
There are 3 others flying in our group, first burnt out motor today in one and he is going to do a new SK-35-42 in it.

As I previously posted I believe there is a V 1 and V 2 of this model.
V2 has both ply and metal plate reinforcing for the motor mount, good sized air duct
slots and the clevices, while still being plastic, have the little push lock system.

Cheers
Tony
Tony
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Old Aug 31, 2012, 07:50 AM
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Thornleigh - 20k N of Sydney,N.S.W.,AUSTRALIA
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Tony,
Glad to see you are having success with your P2K flying what I understand, is the P'n'P version, which comes complete with everything fitted.
I bought the ARF, which is just the airframe alone, with all the bits in a box inside the model box. ... and the woefully inadequate Instructions, which apart from how to assemble the tail surfaces, are of no further use.
Having read the whole thread related to this aircraft, there seems to have been very varied results with it. Therefore I did not intend taking any risks ... with the airframe, at least ... and have made what I believe, are mandatory mods. to it.
Some photos of my motor mount mod. can be seen in an earlier post of mine, mostly to strengthen it, which was considered absolutely necessary, and to cater for the Hyperion Gs2220 motor I'll be using.
Photos of my lower Rudder hinge mod will follow, also deemed absolutely mandatory, with the control horn able to flex that part of the rudder markedly, with it having absolutely no support in that area, making accurate rudder control doubtful at best.
Any way I'm glad you're not having any problems, and hope that I'll have as much success with mine as you are.
Daffy.
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