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Old Jul 01, 2012, 02:56 PM
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HG - not playin' Topic Cop by any means.....But since you've started a separate thread
I've posted a response 'over there'.
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Old Jul 03, 2012, 09:06 AM
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Phew just got through reading the entire thread! My Phoenix 2000 turned up last week from the Australian Hobbyking warehouse and I'm looking forward to getting it all set up and flying in the next couple of weeks.

Looks like they've improved the motor mount area of this plane since the original reports of melting, my motor came mounted with plywood, or some such, pieces on either side of the plastic, plus the metal plate on the outside.

I was planning on using the stock speed control and cutting away the heat shrink covering for better cooling, but after running the motor at only about 15 amps it was pretty darn hot. I've changed to a 30 amp Hobbyking Blue Series one that only just gets warm.

Full power gave about 27 amps, which I understand would be way too much for the stock motor? I've reduced the throttle throw to only pull 20 amps at full throttle so hopefully that will keep the motor from overheating/burning out and won't make performance too anaemic.
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Old Jul 03, 2012, 11:52 PM
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I painted the bottom of the tail stabilizer fluorescent orange. I have a strong desire to take my glider higher and higher. I have to break that 1000 feet level! Hopefully with yellow wings and orange stabilizer I will be able to maintain orientation a little higher up.
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Old Jul 04, 2012, 10:35 PM
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Originally Posted by HoosierGuy View Post
I painted the bottom of the tail stabilizer fluorescent orange. I have a strong desire to take my glider higher and higher. I have to break that 1000 feet level! Hopefully with yellow wings and orange stabilizer I will be able to maintain orientation a little higher up.
Hi, Hoos. At altitudes above 1000 feet AGL, you won't be able to tell yellow from orange from pink. It's very nice to catch a real hat-sucker of a thermal, but as you get way up there, the only thing you'll be able to see is a little black + . Standard and unlimited ships (100 inch wingspan and above) are better, but a 2m ship is very, VERY hard to see above 1500' feet or so (your eyes may vary). I've had them up to 2000' before, and it's not something I want to do on a regular basis.

Also, general consensus, and I agree totally, is that dark colors, esp. black, are the best for high altitude visibility, especially if it's overcast, or a thin overcast, or bright clear sky.

I get a kick when I read that someone has 'painted an orientation stripe' on their (upper) wing tip, or rudder, or whatever. I'm sure it could work to determine orientation at lower altitudes. But certainly not if you've just found a huge hat-sucker.

Good luck with your high altitude exploits. There are hundreds of discussions from so-called 'experts' on the whys and why-nots of flying above 400 meters. Some of them get rather... rabid. Not sure why.

--
Greg
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Old Jul 04, 2012, 10:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Heliosphere View Post
Phew just got through reading the entire thread! My Phoenix 2000 turned up last week from the Australian Hobbyking warehouse and I'm looking forward to getting it all set up and flying in the next couple of weeks.

Looks like they've improved the motor mount area of this plane since the original reports of melting, my motor came mounted with plywood, or some such, pieces on either side of the plastic, plus the metal plate on the outside...
Helio - would it be possible to post a few pictures of the new, improved Phx2K motor mount area? I've had some plastic split problems in the past there, and I want to see what HK's official cure is.

Thanks.
--
Greg
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Old Jul 05, 2012, 01:09 AM
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Well tonight was going to be a big night! LOL. I painted my back stabilizer orange and I was going to try it out. So I threw my Phoenix Evolution up and doing a circle while climbing and the prop and spinner came off! I landing and I looked and looked but I could not fine it.

First off - I need a new prop and spinner. Are there any online stores in the U.S. that sales it or am I goign to have to order one from Hobbyking?

Also, how do you make sure your prop never falls off? Or is this part of R.C. flying? I've included a pic of the motor shaft sticking out. I had to fiberglass the nose and that caused the amount of motor shaft sticking out to be reduced. Do you think the small shaft size resulted in the prop falling off?

Does anybody know the exact prop and spinner I need?

Finally, When the prop falls off, say 100 to 150 feet up in the air, where does it usually go? Straight down or far forward?

Disapointing. My favorite R.C. plane is down with no prop. Bummer.
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Old Jul 05, 2012, 02:22 AM
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OK, I've done some ebay and Hobbyking research and I see my Phoenix Evolution and the Phoenix 2000 uses the same 2815/1050KV motor. Will a folding prop 10x6 work with that motor or would that be too large/small? I was reading the Hobbyking discussion forum and someone asked about a prop for their Phoenix 2000 and another person suggested the 10x6 folding prop. If that works on the 2000 I figure it will work on my Evolution. I just don't want to put on a prop that will burn up the motor/esc/battery.


http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...2pcs_bag_.html
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Old Jul 05, 2012, 06:04 AM
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Originally Posted by HoosierGuy View Post
OK, I've done some ebay and Hobbyking research and I see my Phoenix Evolution and the Phoenix 2000 uses the same 2815/1050KV motor. Will a folding prop 10x6 work with that motor or would that be too large/small? I was reading the Hobbyking discussion forum and someone asked about a prop for their Phoenix 2000 and another person suggested the 10x6 folding prop. If that works on the 2000 I figure it will work on my Evolution. I just don't want to put on a prop that will burn up the motor/esc/battery.


http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...2pcs_bag_.html
Hoosier, unfortunately, that prop. won't work with the stock 2815 motor in the P2K. The prop referenced above is for a 4mm shaft.

The stock motor spec on the P2K is: 2815, 1050Kv, 3mm shaft. This motor is perfectly adequate. I believe the stock prop is a 10x5 ? Could be wrong on this. But it's definitely a 3mm shaft.

This one is a 10/6 for a 3mm shaft:
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s..._1pc_bag_.html
Note that the diameter of the base of the spinner is probably smaller than the face of the P2K's firewall, which will leave a bit of a gap around the outside of the spinner. Eh.. we're looking for function, not aesthetics.

I replaced mine with a 2836, 1000kV, 4mm shaft motor, a 11/6 folding prop, and a 40A speed controller. You can find a much more extensive assortment of the 4mm shaft prop collet adapters or folding props/adapters than the 3mm.

I can get nearly vertical climb. Fun to do rolls while going up vertically.
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Old Jul 05, 2012, 11:25 AM
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So what would be the safest prop to get (that would not blow the stock esc)? The 10x5 or 10x6? I have a wattmeter ordered but it's not here yet.

Yeah, I measured my spinner a few weeks ago and it was around 40 to 42mm at the base of it.
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Old Jul 06, 2012, 03:41 AM
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Originally Posted by botulism View Post
Helio - would it be possible to post a few pictures of the new, improved Phx2K motor mount area? I've had some plastic split problems in the past there, and I want to see what HK's official cure is.

Thanks.
--
Greg
Hi Greg, no worries, here you go. Looking at the inside photo, it looks like there's also a PCB sort of material to the plywood as well.
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Old Jul 06, 2012, 04:33 AM
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PCB??!! That's a carcinogen - surely you mean something else?

Something that's had me wondering since 1st revelation of 'more insulation' being supplied on later models -- the length of the motor mounting screws on those. I'll pull one of mine & measure it if you'll check yours, Helio.

Here's the deal. Back when I was first building my P2K, I wanted to add some insulation up front, based on heat issues I'd read about while reading thru the thread from its beginning. The problem that developed was, to add anything sufficient to the job left the motor screws too short - unable to reach thru & 'take hold' in the motor's threading. Even the thin disc of breadboard I used left the screws just barely grabbing, & the motor's held in by only ~3-4 turns of thread. Find longer screws, ya might think. Next longer size (only ones I could find) were too long...bottomed out before tightening, & I couldn't get nuts to cut & re-chase the screw thread without buying a bag of 1000. (I said "Nuts!" to that, & the whole project.)

That 'short screw' issue looks like it was found the hard way by HG.
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Old Jul 06, 2012, 05:23 AM
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PCB??!! That's a carcinogen - surely you mean something else?

Something that's had me wondering since 1st revelation of 'more insulation' being supplied on later models -- the length of the motor mounting screws on those. I'll pull one of mine & measure it if you'll check yours, Helio.
Not sure when I'll be able to get the screws measured sorry, I'm disabled and would need to get someone to do it for me and am slowly trying to get the plane assembled at the moment so I can fly it!

PCB = printed circuit board
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Old Jul 06, 2012, 08:59 AM
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Oh, OK mate - sorry to hear that. No biggy....just something I's curious about & it (mine) is in there & hangin' on so, prolly be better off not pulling it anyway.
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Old Jul 06, 2012, 09:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Heliosphere View Post
Hi Greg, no worries, here you go. Looking at the inside photo, it looks like there's also a PCB sort of material to the plywood as well.
Great photos! And it certainly looks like a much better mount now. Thanks.
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Old Jul 06, 2012, 10:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Heliosphere View Post
Hi Greg, no worries, here you go. Looking at the inside photo, it looks like there's also a PCB sort of material to the plywood as well.
Thanks for the pix, Helio. Hmmm, that's interesting. It's like a sandwich now. From fore to aft it's aluminum plate / plywood / plastic fuselage / plywood / PCB material / motor. I cannot remember what was on my original Phx, but I now have aluminum disc, plywood disc, plastic body, plywood disc, motor.
When I had the cracking problems earlier, that was just using aluminum disc / plastic fuse / plywood disc / motor. So, hopefully adding the plywood directly in front of the plastic fuse will make it like a washer effect, spreading the stress over a much broader area. That's what I'm hoping anyway.

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Greg
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