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Old Jun 16, 2012, 06:07 PM
Earthbound Skyhound
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United States, NC, Richlands
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Congrats on your new bird, Tony. Good thing you held off on all the 'upgrades', IMO. I think you'll find the stock powertrain very adequate, & make a (just) prop & spinner replacement that's more'n half the cost of the whole ship well worth skipping! With a 2200mAh & all stock, I've had it up over 1000 ft (certified on EagleTree) & several 30+ minute flights & didn't even raise a sweat. Best I can offer is just don't push it....when going up do it in stages with rests every 30 seconds or so. And keep 'er level on landings!

Clear skies & smooth sailing!
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Old Jun 18, 2012, 05:16 AM
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motors

what is the best motor for this plane ,i had the one that hobby king recommend but the wires were touching the side of the motor as i was flying and it melted the insulation off the wires and now the motor does not go .
Thanks for any answers.

Kiwi flyer
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Old Jun 18, 2012, 06:37 AM
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Well.. saturday was slope day.. we went to the slope as usual and as happens in many summer days.. no wind..

There was no wind at all.. only a light breeze from time to time on the slope.. not even enought to make plants move..

And then the Phoenix came and... it flew

I had readed a lot and once sawn it but never tried .. the Phoenix 2000 managed to "slope" and hang on without motor where nobody else could.. not even Zaggis.. we wonder what hold it ..barelly used the motor until the last moments or sometimes were the lift totally dissapeared just to climb again and glide ... with one battery of 1000mAh an half 1550 managed 1 hour and 3 cuarters .. even managed to chase a thermal (spoted watching some seagulls gliding in circles high) and use it a bit tought either i didnt catched it well or it moved away)..

Overall everyone was impressed and at last i could test the Phoenix for what i got it.. for those really-low wind to no wind at all.. works perfectly and also makes me wonder how would glide even lighter birds like the EasyGlider or Elektro Junior or Radian.

Oh also used most of the day my "camber" mix wich lowers inner flaps a cople degrees... works quite well and definitil noticed it working..

But tought we knew we tried the flaps (45 down) and they really seem to only work for slowing down the plane.. the drag they add is greater than any lift beneffict (as we allready know) wich makes me wonder what i have them ... the Phoenix really doesnt need extra lift to take off and if it would need the camber setting would work better.. and for braking we allready have the butterfly crow airbrake wich combines flaps, spoilers and elevator

Mission acomplisheh... Phoenix works not only in slope, but in no wind days... still wanting to do sometime a pure thermal flight

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Old Jun 18, 2012, 09:29 AM
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Originally Posted by JLT_GTI View Post
the Phoenix 2000 managed to "slope" and hang on without motor where nobody else could..
Great to hear. I'd love to see some video of the Phoenix 'hanging on' when the others couldn't. Where was your CG set at that day?
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Old Jun 18, 2012, 09:43 AM
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Great to hear. I'd love to see some video of the Phoenix 'hanging on' when the others couldn't. Where was your CG set at that day?
didnt measured it but i used both the 1000 and 1550mAh batteries (94g the 1000 and 134g the 1550) and put them as forward as the velcro allowed me..
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Old Jun 18, 2012, 09:43 AM
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Also wonder how implement the airbrake... throotle stick? but then what i use to power? switch? pot? use a switch to change between throotle operation and airbrake? its a bit messyy
open9x lets you do anything you can think of with your mixes. In Airbrake mode I have mixed the throttle stick to vary the amount of airbrake from full (90deg flaps) to none as I move the stick from bottom to center. I then have a dead band before the top 1/3 of the stick travel engages the motor.

This is nice for when you under shoot your landing spot, but after trying it, i believe it is not safe. It can be dangerous if you are about to hand catch it and you push the throttle up a little too far by mistake....

I will be removing the motor activation feature and use the whole stick range for varying the airbrake amount. If I want to engage the motor to abort a landing then I will just need to get to the switch quickly instead. Better still, just get better at landing on target with no motor use!
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Old Jun 18, 2012, 09:55 AM
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didnt measured it but i used both the 1000 and 1550mAh batteries (94g the 1000 and 134g the 1550) and put them as forward as the velcro allowed me..
I'd be interested to know what CG you get with your 1000mAh.

On calm days I've been playing with very rearward CG's (well atleast compared to many in this thread) and am loving the extra float, slower speed and better control I have in turns. I have the H-stab shimmed up 2mm at L/E. I went all the way to 93mm before I saw any real adverse tendencies in flight - then again there was no lift so can't comment on how well it would thermal at these CGs.

I think there is much room to improve over the stock 70mm and the stock H-stab angle. I really wish Starhopper would just bight the bullet and buy a whole new plane as I was enjoying his technical analysis of his flights and would like to see more data from him.
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Old Jun 18, 2012, 05:51 PM
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For those of you that have used fiberglass to reinforce the nose area, can you give me some hints on how to do it? I've never used fiberglass before but I bought a fiberglass repair kit at Walmart. I need to seal the top of the fuselage from where the front of the canopy begins to the nose, and also the (firewall I think you call it) that the motor connects to. Do you put the fiberglass on dry and then put that paste on it or do you get it all soaked in that paste and then put it on?

Thanks
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Old Jun 18, 2012, 06:22 PM
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Originally Posted by HoosierGuy View Post
For those of you that have used fiberglass to reinforce the nose area, can you give me some hints on how to do it? I've never used fiberglass before but I bought a fiberglass repair kit at Walmart. I need to seal the top of the fuselage from where the front of the canopy begins to the nose, and also the (firewall I think you call it) that the motor connects to. Do you put the fiberglass on dry and then put that paste on it or do you get it all soaked in that paste and then put it on?

Thanks
First position the glass mesh where you want it, and if necessary "tack" it on temporarily with very small dabs of CA, then use a small paintbrush to saturate the thing with epoxy and to make it conform to the desired shape. It's better to use multiple layers of thin weave for this purpose - say 30g or less - instead of a single run with relatively heavy 50g+ stuff.
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Old Jun 18, 2012, 09:37 PM
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United States, MT, Kalispell
Joined Aug 2004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kiwi flyer 05 View Post
what is the best motor for this plane ,i had the one that hobby king recommend but the wires were touching the side of the motor as i was flying and it melted the insulation off the wires and now the motor does not go .
Thanks for any answers.

Kiwi flyer
Hi, kiwi.
If the wires on the motor were melted because they were touching the spinning bell and heating up, that may be repairable with a little heat shrink tubing. But, if the wires were melted due to too much current through them, and the motor no longer works, that could either be a fried motor (possible) or a fried speed controller (more likely). I don't know of an easy way to test without a working one of each, and swapping

There is no 'best' motor for the P2k. The stock motor is a 2815, 1050kv. Now, motors are usually specified by the diameter * length which in this case would be 28 mm. dia., by 15 mm. long. I replaced my stock Phoenix motor long ago, so I no longer have any idea what was in there originally, but that sure seems small. It also has a 3mm shaft (if you want the stock propeller/spinner combination). The P2K also uses a 30A speed controller.

A lot of people have 'upgraded' their motors, I'm currently using a 2836-1000kV motor (4mm shaft) with a 40A ESC, and it can climb nearly vertical. Not quite, but close. Also using a 11x5 folding propeller.

If you do decide to upgrade, just be aware that the original shaft size is 3mm., if you want to use the stock propeller/spinner. Most of the 28xx motors will have 4mm shafts, which will necessitate a new collet, prop adapter, prop, and spinner.

Good luck, hope you get back in the air soon.
--
Greg
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Old Jun 19, 2012, 12:07 AM
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hey I crashed my glider and on rebuildng and i notice something loose inside. it is the same metal cylnder you show. have you found out where it goes ?>
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Old Jun 19, 2012, 03:01 AM
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Originally Posted by GadgetMan08 View Post
hey I crashed my glider and on rebuildng and i notice something loose inside. it is the same metal cylnder you show. have you found out where it goes ?>
You who shows? No point of reference - what are you talking about?
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Old Jun 19, 2012, 03:31 AM
Earthbound Skyhound
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Hoosier Guy;
I've not personally used fiberglass either - never had to - but I've been around plenty of it & uses of it. Just steppin' in here to note, some fiberglass cloth is like gossamer or silk, almost. The type (and by this I mean 'weight') of fiberglas you'd get in any kit from Wally's, and I might be completely wrong but, would think it'd be pretty heavy as compared to what would be preferred to use in our applications.

Compare the info here for weights / sq meter with what you got:
(For a physical reference to a gram, if you're unfamiliar, a dollar bill weighs 1 gram)
Medium = 270g https://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/...idProduct=9786
Light = 200g https://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/...dProduct=10071
UltraThin = 48g https://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/...dProduct=10903
Super Thin = 18g https://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/...dProduct=10905
You might also want to consider carbon fiber tissue, at only 10g/m2:
https://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/...dProduct=12898

And here's a couple ways to go on adhesives alternatives -- descriptions contain some handy info on usage:
https://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/...dProduct=16443
https://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/...dProduct=16413

HTH!
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Old Jun 19, 2012, 03:46 AM
Seeker of Thermals
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Originally Posted by GadgetMan08 View Post
hey I crashed my glider and on rebuildng and i notice something loose inside. it is the same metal cylnder you show. have you found out where it goes ?>
troll troll troll yer boat, gently down the forum...

OK, I'll bite.

Metal cylinder? might that be the... motor ???, or something like that, I can't quite recall the name. It's probably not necessary on a rebuild. Try it without it and see if you crash again. If you don't crash, that means the metal cylinder wasn't really necessary.

There's lots of parts in an RC sailplane that aren't really necessary. If you want to save weight, just start leaving out a few and see if it affects your gliding. If not - leave it out! You've just saved a few grams!!!

Good luck.
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Old Jun 19, 2012, 07:45 AM
CURIOSITY Has Landed!
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Sydney, Australia
Joined Jul 2005
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I don't know if he's trolling. Something was mentioned is this post about about something like that.
But I've never heard it mentioned before that or since now.

At first I thought have something to with the option of being motorized or slope soarer and that it just might have been for ballast,
but I never had that piece in my kit.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...0#post17810662
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