First to 'Headless Andy';
So sorry to hear the awful news, & all my sympathies for your horrible experience, fella! I too hope you get good coverage & compensation for your loss....especially since I know how 'those guys' can be when it comes to giving money back!

I admit I've been maybe a little lax with my recharging, in that I could have stayed closer but, in truth mine are in the laundry room about 40' away just around the corner from my computer, where I always am when re-charging. I figure if anything goes awry, I'll see the smoke quickly enough, get to it & toss the works thru the adjacent back door to outside. I also always use a LiPo bag, supposedly an approved one. It looks substantial & has 'the markings' but, I know there are imposter 'knock offs' out there so, it's a concern.
One thing I've noted a couple of "old salt" Pro's mention is, they re-charge inside a ceramic container. Fire-proof, of course. I'm not 100% sure what exactly it is they use, but am keeping an eye out for something suitable, & intend to get one to use.

One note: I had originally intended to use a metal container - in fact, had it already -- a military .50-cal ammo can. Until someone advised me a burning LiPo inside a sealed metal container is actually a bomb! That's when I went shopping for the LiPo bag.

Anyway guy....not to take away from your plight -- I sincerely hope you're back in the air again very soon, and thanking providence things didn't get any worse than what happened! Good luck to ya!!

+ + +
Then, to bamoore01:
Don't remember if I've mentioned it on this board, but I picked up a nice DX6i from an estate sale handled by an LHS in my old home town, just this past weekend. Still learning everything I can about it....but have no Rx's for it yet. Do you perchance know a good USA source for the Orange Rx's, & possibly the satellite unit, for less than the standard arm&leg cost? I need to pick up one or two quickly, & don't want to wait for that 'slow boat from China'.

I'd also be deeply interested in learning about & specifics of any mix settings/setups you're using, especially for the Phoenix! Wanta mentor me on this thing??

Thanks SH
re ammo boxes. You need to drill some holes in the top of the ammo box to allow the pressure to vent. I think it would be even better if you welded on some sort of baffled, spark arrester tube that would still allow the pressure to vent but would prevent fire from escaping. Here is a commercially available unit http://www.elmactechnologies.com/pro...sters_ava.html
As an alternative you could use a clear oven proof casserole dish. It's heat proof and, as it's clear, you can see if a pack is starting to swell or smoke. I've also read a suggestion that you can suspend a plastic bag of sand over the charging lipo. If it catches fire, the bag will melt and release the sand to smoother the flames. A commercial system called Pyroflex uses a tube filled with liquid extinguishant gas which burst directly over the fire. http://www.firetrace.co.uk/Copy%20of...x%20080509.pdf It's the sort of system fitted under the hood on race cars. It's fully automatic and is likely to be triggered before you are aware you have a fire. Not cheap though.
Re Orange RX's. I just did an Ebay.com search picking only those in the US
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=..._dmd=1&_ipg=50
Andy

SH,

Not sure of a US source. I bought one off of ebay once but it was more expensive than HK. I just add one or two to an order when I get low. The one thing I have learned from experience is to use the sattilite receiver with them. I got these little 1 to 5 second drop outs if I din't. It's never resulted in a pile of parts on the ground but it's scary.

I'll document my DX6i settings in the next few days.

Thanx guys (both), especially the eBuy info.
Someone else advised they're available here for ~$14 :
SuperflyRC
...if anyone's interested.

"... learned from experience is to use the sattilite receiver with them. I got these little 1 to 5 second drop outs if I din't."
I've heard (read) about that too, & exactly why I asked about them. I intend to use the satellite in eg, my gliders which I tend to fly somewhat afar to begin with, then there's the altitude I get up to with. Thought it odd the satellites cost ~2x what the Rx's do, but all considered, I guess it's cheap insurance.

SH,

Here is my radio setup with the DX6i and an Orange 6 ch receiver. I don’t have flaps or flap servos in the P2K, just the two aileron servos in the wings.

Servo -> Receiver Connections (I know, some are obvious)
ESC Throttle -> receiver thro
Left aileron -> receiver aile
Right aileron -> receiver aux
Rudder -> receiver rudd
Elevator -> receiver elev

Radio Setup
DR
Ailerons -> 70% on 0; 100% on 1
Elevator and Rudder -> 100% on 0 ; 100% on 1
Expo
INH on all (I don’t feel like I need them with this plane)
Travel Adj.
I use 100% on all. I think it depends on your servos and linkage.
Sub Trim
All 0.
Flaps
Norm -> 0 for Flap; 0 for Elev
Land -> 20 for Flap; 0 for Elev (You may want some ele??)
Mix1
Gear -> Flap ACT
Rate D 0% U +100%
SW On Trim INH
Mix2
INH
Differential
Dual Aileron Rate 60% (I just like Aileron Diff on sailplanes)
Reverse
Thro – N Aile – R
Elev – R Rudd – R
Gear – N Flap – R
Wing Tail Mix
Dual Aileron – ACT
V-Tail – INH
Elevon – INH

There, I think that is all the important settings. I skipped a few that were just set to default or INH. Some of the things you may have to play with like reversing and throws to get them to what makes it work for you. I think I could do more with the dual rates to get more flap and spoiler positions but that is a work in progress. The problem is the number of switch combinations it may take to cover all those positions. It might be a bit much to keep track of while flying in a tight spot. There are probably different ways to do this. This may get you started and skip some of the trial and error.

Also, I’m setting up a plane with the same radio and receiver that does have separate flap servos. That is a little more of a challenge with the DX6i. I would sure like to hear how others have done it. I have one method but I only end up with either flaps or aileron reflex (spoilers), not both.

Wow, BA! I didn't imagine there'd be so much detail! An extra thanx to you for your effort there....and sorry for causing you so much work.
First thing for me now will be to copy it down & go thru step by step figuring out what each setting is & does. That oughta keep me busy/out of your hair for awhile! *LOL*
I've already noticed a couple spots I might question, but I'll give it some honest effort before bugging you or y'all further about it.
Thanks again guy.

Not a problem SH. I'm glad to be able to give back.

One other thing that I'm thinking of doing is to use Mix 2 to mix Throttle -> Elevator so that I get some down deflection from the elevator with throttle. I understand the need for it on a plane like this with the thrust line so far below the lifting wing but I'm kind of iffy on this. I'm not sure I want things happening that I don't command directly. I'll probably give it a shot next time out since I can always disable it if I don't like it.

Well, thanks yet again anyway - believe me it's appreciated. Should save me tons of figuring & guessing, since there was so much involved! I was expecting something like "70% rates with a little expo on the elevator". *LOL*

Afa being "kind of iffy", your conclusion (can disable) was crossing my mind by the time I'd read the words....but I can sure see where one might want to try that in the setup. Especially on one like mine where it wants to climb so hard under full throttle.

The ugly truth is, it might be awhile before I go flying again. Got up this morning to make my morning cup, stepped into the kitchen & noticed my feet were wet. WTH?!? Cut the lights up full, saw I was standing in a huge pool of water. Long story short, my water heater let go some time during the night. *$IGH*

BTW, pending confirmation of a technical matter, I might have a nice safety feature I can share. Gotta make sure it'll work first, tho. Please stay tuned!

Meanwhile, Re the water heater (I know it's keeping most of you awake at night worrying ) it only took a whole hangar-full of future RC buys to get replaced. (Yeah I'm crying in my beer.....if only I could afford a beer!)

Since it looks like I won't be buying anything for a long time, to keep the jones suppressed I'm announcing a break-in service for RC planes at very reasonable rates. If you need one (or more) maidened, mods or upgrades tested, power usage/performance analysis data logged & charted, etc...photography, video, whatevah - just PM me & I'll tell ya where to have the factory ship 'em. I'll even hold 'em until you can come by & pick 'em up - no extra charge!

~Mr. ex-$585 Smackeroos

Wow. what a beautiful day. After two weeks of solid rain, and/or wind, today was absolutely beautiful, mid 70s, gentle breeze, bright sunshine to heat the ground unevenly... So, I had to take the afternoon off and go flying. These were shot from the HK Phoenix 2000. Camera is a Sony DSC-W350 (14 megapix).
--
Greg

Very nice pictures, Greg! I really enjoy watching them.
It is always to see good aerial pics from other people here. A good pic is better then a bad foot of film!......

Some very nice aerials there Greg! What do you use to trigger the shutter?

Originally Posted by StarHopper44

BTW, pending confirmation of a technical matter, I might have a nice safety feature I can share. Gotta make sure it'll work first, tho. Please stay tuned! ...

OK, clarification received - and I should have noted the 'unclear matter' referred to DX6i's -- which, brought up here as that Tx was being discussed but this of course applies across the gamut of electric motor'd RC craft, and I believe, many if not most Tx's. This 'idea' isn't mine, but I feel it's pretty important & should receive wide dissemination, considering the inherent danger of electrics. As the OP states:
"Electrics (especially big ones) are lot more dangerous than gas engines for two reasons. They develop substantial torque (read “potential injury and damage”) at zero speed or startup, and they don’t need to be started. They will run whenever you apply power - and they won't stop when they hit something."
Anyway, enough with the prosthelytizing, here's the thing - the real meat of the matter: 'A simple safe throttle-kill Tx mod for Electrics' - http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1640080
....and I hope this sharing saves someone possible injury!
Lord knows I've seen many accidental electric startups - even a few of my own! If nothing else, it's a means of protecting me from myself!!

OMG!! Guys I just realized this isn't the DX6i Forum I posted all that to. *BLUSH*
I have buttons to the RCG boards I participate in on my browser toolbar & somehow titled the Tx board on the P2K's button. My sincere apologies, and if anyone protests I'll remove the post....but since it's a safety issue would like to keep it up if nobody minds.
Again, my bad, & sorry!

Originally Posted by StarHopper44

Some very nice aerials there Greg! What do you use to trigger the shutter?

Thanks, *hopper. I use... a servo! Pretty low tech. Up until a year ago, I used the Prism IR remote switch, which simulates an IR remote control to take the pic. These work really well, but they're camera specific. If you want to use a different make of camera, you have to get a different IR remote switch. At US$25 ea, this gets expensive.

So, I used the low-tech approach and put ONE drop of CA on the servo, then when that had set, I used silicone RTV (clear bathtub caulk). So far, no failures.

--
Greg