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Old Apr 25, 2012, 09:32 AM
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Tampa, Florida
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Does anyone know where i can buy a 2.6M Phoenix?
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Old Apr 25, 2012, 10:10 AM
Heli's and gliders, what else?
BarnOwl's Avatar
Nederland, GE, Slijk-Ewijk
Joined Apr 2006
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Originally Posted by eosglider View Post
For reference purposes, what kind of motor are you using and how far back on the battery tray does the battery sit at?
I can not give a reference point on the tray, as I have shifted it without knowing the original position. It is at 12 cm from the front firewall that the battery starts.
I'm using a Turnigy 2836-1000.

btw: Do you guys realize that the Chinese workers may have put the battery tray at different positions in our planes.........
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Old Apr 25, 2012, 10:22 AM
Row 0, Seat A
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Savannah, GA
Joined Jan 2008
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Originally Posted by headlessagain View Post
I think that you have agreed with SH's point. As you stated above, for models at this price point we don't often know "Things like airfoil section, aspect ratio, drag coefficient, yadda, yadda". The one stat that manufacturers do provide is the weight and wingspan (ok, not chord) so I would also expect them to quote an accurate weight so the buyer can at least compare the weight of model X with model Y.
Andy
I think that SH answered his own question when he stated "Perhaps that recommended weight is for the non-powered set-up -- I don't know. But wouldn't you think it a bit odd that, considering how much a motor/prop/LiPo/ESC weighs, that the Specs don't specify a powered and non-powered AUW? "

I don't recall seeing any model from any source having more than one specified weight when there is an option of different builds like the P2K (sloper or powered). If the un-powered model actually does weigh close to 980gm (I haven't weighed mine) then stating that as a flying weight is most reasonable. Even for a "stock" powered version the recommended 3S battery size is a range from 1300~1800mAh so how could they provide an accurate weight based on that?

Ted
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Old Apr 27, 2012, 03:53 AM
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Well.. finished painting the bird (maybe i will paint too the underside of the rear stab to have more color contrast since the porpouse of this is making it easier to spot when thermaling). Used 2€ chinese store spray cans.. seem to work well..



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Old Apr 27, 2012, 05:04 AM
Heli's and gliders, what else?
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Very nice looking paintjob! I like the clean red white and bleu...........
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Old Apr 27, 2012, 05:08 AM
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Originally Posted by BarnOwl View Post
Very nice looking paintjob! I like the clean red white and bleu...........
Thanks... im thinking in paiting the white strip in the rudder orange.


By the way.. this is a lame question and i think i allready know the answer but...
Its the wood strip that goes bolt between the 2 wings really necesary?

I supose is there for a reason and provides structural integrity.. but since i have to carry the wings separated its a bit of anoying to screw and unscrew 8 bolts each time i want to fly.. shouldnt the spar and the fuseage bolts should be enought?
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Old Apr 27, 2012, 05:16 AM
Heli's and gliders, what else?
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I do think it is necessary.......it gives structural support for the wing in flight.
If you do not have the opportunity to cary two parts (The whole wing and the fusealge) it am afraid you have to undo those 8 bolts.
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Old Apr 27, 2012, 10:04 AM
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France
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before I completly modified the wing latching, I just added a second spar and replaced the wood plate by some velcro. worked well. But only saved 2 screw.
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Old Apr 27, 2012, 10:06 AM
Row 0, Seat A
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Savannah, GA
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Originally Posted by BarnOwl View Post
I do think it is necessary.......it gives structural support for the wing in flight.
If you do not have the opportunity to cary two parts (The whole wing and the fusealge) it am afraid you have to undo those 8 bolts.
Why not just remove the 4 on one wing only and leave the other 4 holding the retainer the other wing? Am I missing something?

Ted
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Old Apr 27, 2012, 10:18 AM
Heli's and gliders, what else?
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Originally Posted by G550Ted View Post
Why not just remove the 4 on one wing only and leave the other 4 holding the retainer the other wing? Am I missing something?

Ted
That's why I say: "If you do not have the opportunity to carry two parts (The whole wing and the fuselage)" (I only took the typo's out..........) .
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Old Apr 29, 2012, 11:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BarnOwl View Post
That's why I say: "If you do not have the opportunity to carry two parts (The whole wing and the fuselage)" (I only took the typo's out..........) .
I think you might've misunderstood Ted. He asked (as I wondered, in effect), why remove the whole wooden strip from the two wing halves? Just remove the plywood strip screws from one half, separate the wing halves & leave the strip screwed to one wing. That's only half as much work in removing/replacing screws.
The possible down-side to this (or removing the strip at all) is, over time you're gonna ream out the foam that 'holds' the screws. Easy fix - drill new holes & shift the screws around a bit....but time will catch up, presuming the plane lasts that long.

Hey Ted - wonder if we could somehow adopt the infamous 'HeadLok' material here? Something I've considered was, to install some kind've fine hinge in place of the plywood strip, so's you could easily fold the wings for transport/storage. Something solid, with the strip's rigidity save the pivot axis. Thoughts?
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Old Apr 29, 2012, 11:45 AM
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Yeah i tried and yes its possible to left the plywood strip permanently bolted to one wing (the left one to be precise, it wont work on the right due to the wings needing to twist to "match" ) so in the end we are talking about 6 bolts before and after each flight day..

The problem wich concerns me is the bolt sockets in the plywood getting worn out over time.. but its no more than one flight day per week most.. lets see how much holds..

Still wonder why its there.. other gliders just use the center spar and then some wing "socket" system.. the Phoenix uses 4 big bolts and then after this plywood strip
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Old Apr 29, 2012, 11:49 AM
Heli's and gliders, what else?
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Nederland, GE, Slijk-Ewijk
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Originally Posted by StarHopper44 View Post
I think you might've misunderstood Ted. He asked (as I wondered, in effect), why remove the whole wooden strip from the two wing halves? Just remove the plywood strip screws from one half, separate the wing halves & leave the strip screwed to one wing. That's only half as much work in removing/replacing screws.
Oh no....that's only 2 screws less, so that does not make it half the work.
And I understood Ted perfectly......
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Old Apr 29, 2012, 07:59 PM
Row 0, Seat A
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Savannah, GA
Joined Jan 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StarHopper44 View Post
Hey Ted - wonder if we could somehow adopt the infamous 'HeadLok' material here? Something I've considered was, to install some kind've fine hinge in place of the plywood strip, so's you could easily fold the wings for transport/storage. Something solid, with the strip's rigidity save the pivot axis. Thoughts?
SH,

I like that idea but don't think the hinge idea is practical due to the small hinge size and the long leverage arm of the wings. In other words it would put too much force on the hinge when handling the wings. Also, I don't know how one would make a suitable joiner using the "head lock" stuff. Still scratching my head for a better solution.

Ted
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Old Apr 30, 2012, 11:10 AM
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Malta
Joined May 2008
67 Posts
I have 2 problems !!

I Have this Setup:

Turnigy2836 Brushless Outrunner 1000kv
HobbyKing 40A BlueSeries Brushless Speed Controller

And because of heating problem I fitted a headless aluminium spinner with the stock props.

Now I tested it and suddenly the battery dropped at 10min (with the stock spinner average flight was about 14min) I'm not sure if it was a problem with the battery ,will find out next flight!

Does the new spinner create this problem ??

And the other problem is (i had to crash land due to the sudden powercut) and I bent a bit the motor shaft (only a bit ). Can anyone suggest whats the best thing to do, how to repair or where can I find a spare shaft ??
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