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Old Apr 11, 2012, 03:37 PM
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Never flew the radian and admit that the T-tail is quite apealing to me.. but its a 100% EPP plane where the P2K only has EPP surfaces .. that should put it in a diferent cathegory ... i have seen and know people who flew the P2K in quite strong slope wind conditions and it handled it perfectly fine..

I know a guy here who flies a Radian ... he didnt talked good things about it and actually he ended up swaping its wings for a EasyGlider wings (other guy gave them to him after he totalled his EzG) and he sais the wings improved the radian a lot..

dont know as reviews usually put the Radian on par with the EzG
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Old Apr 12, 2012, 07:39 AM
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Originally Posted by JLT_GTI View Post
...
dont know as reviews usually put the Radian on par with the EzG
There's something to be said about trusting reviews, depending on who's giving 'em. You've got "pro" reviewers whose 'livlihood' depends on keeping the suppliers happy, so every POS that's churned out is a "gem"......and on the other hand, the "it's great because _I_ own one" types, or 'fanboys'. Best I can suggest is read a lot, & take 'em all with a grain o' salt. The ol' tried-&-true "more samplings tell a truer tale" bit. That's one of the best things about sites like RCG here - you've got a good cross section of opinions, from noobs to the seasoned old pros whom, BTW, I'll listen to ten times as readily as someone with a motive.

AFA T-Tails....my concerns with 'em are the things I've read about their not surviving side-forces very well, as in imperfect landings....that they tend to 'flip off'. Not that I haven't been flipped off before. I'll even go so far as to say there's been a couple planes I've shied off getting because they had T-Tails.
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Old Apr 12, 2012, 07:50 AM
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A bit OT but....why is it the BEST deals come up when you're near stone broke?? Here I'm trying to scrape together enough to get "that" plane I mentioned, & this morning I get a "best deals under $99" mailer, & going thru the listings I swear I could spend $4-5,000 easily on stuff I'd love to have! *sigh* So many planes, so little time.....so even littler money available. *LOL* It's a cryin' shame, 's what it is!
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Old Apr 12, 2012, 08:53 AM
Heli's and gliders, what else?
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Originally Posted by JLT_GTI View Post
Never flew the radian and admit that the T-tail is quite apealing to me.. but its a 100% EPP plane where the P2K only has EPP surfaces .. that should put it in a diferent cathegory ... i have seen and know people who flew the P2K in quite strong slope wind conditions and it handled it perfectly fine..

I know a guy here who flies a Radian ... he didnt talked good things about it and actually he ended up swaping its wings for a EasyGlider wings (other guy gave them to him after he totalled his EzG) and he sais the wings improved the radian a lot..

dont know as reviews usually put the Radian on par with the EzG
I own them both, and I fly them both.......

Phoenix 2000:
- Straight wing with tips
- Connected by 4 screws to top of fuselage
- Blow molded fuse
- Elevator/rudder setup with bolts without play
- Strong foam (It is a lot tougher then Radian Pro)
- Flight: Very good glider, it's fast but not such a good floater as RP. Can handle good in winds.

Radian Pro:
- Wings are completely different shape
- Wing connected in middle of fuse
- Fuselage is foam, it's a lot softer then the Phoenix. Tail section is not stiff at all. I had it broken and fixed again.
- Elevator/rudder shift-in with tape, horizontal stabilizer half the thickness of Phoenix.
- Flight: I use it on those windless, beautiful days and you have to be careful not to lose it. It thermals great!

Both planes have their goods and bads.....For the price I think the Phoenix is unbeatable. Don't think the Radian doesn't need any modifications: I changed the prop, spinner, and just about every Horizon servo on board.
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Old Apr 12, 2012, 11:10 AM
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Nice comparison, Barney....thanx for sharing.
What do you mean by "Elevator/rudder shift-in with tape..." ?
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Old Apr 12, 2012, 12:43 PM
Heli's and gliders, what else?
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Nederland, GE, Slijk-Ewijk
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Originally Posted by StarHopper44 View Post
Nice comparison, Barney....thanx for sharing.
What do you mean by "Elevator/rudder shift-in with tape..." ?
It means the hor. stabilizer from the Radian Pro is held in place with tape.
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Old Apr 12, 2012, 12:53 PM
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Sorry for this bit of offtopic and sad news ..

Two guys died last weekend really really near here (like 10km away from my house) after falling into a river trying to recover a RC plane wich had fallen in a tree in the middle of a river.. one of them had doned a neophren suit and used a rope but the currents got him and the other tried to rescue him..

So be carefull if you have to rescue a plane.. i know because i have gone down a cliff to recover a friend's plane once and i know guys who swom in the sea... you never know when things might spiral out of control really fast


Edit: BTW.. forget what i said about the Radian... my mind fooled me and i was thinking in the Elektro Junior when it was the Radian.. so the opinions locals shared with me were obviously on the Junior not the Radian
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Old Apr 14, 2012, 06:54 AM
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Well finally my Phoenix 2K arrived .. seems to come with lots of accesories..

I have couple of questions...

-Where do people usually put the ESC? right bellow the batt ? I have to solder the terminals and connectors for the motor and ESC and i like to know that so i know if i have to lenght the ESC wires or can work as it is now (now its enought so it would sit right bellow the batt)

-Im using a 2836-1000 motor (wich seems more like 1400kv).. i allready swaped the collet adaptor for the 4mm the 2836 comes with... i see the kit comes with 3 firewalls.. one metal , one plywood and a smalle one indeterminated (fiberglass?) wich one of the should i use?

-Due to my house and my car i have no choice but to carry and storage the wings separated in 2 pieces.. the instructions say the wings are joined by a spar ..then one plywood strip bolted and then to the plane with 4 bolts... i asume that to carry the wings separated i have to unbolt 2 of the plywood strip' and rescrew them every flight? Is that ok with this plywood and theese bolts?

I will also use a 3-5A UBEC since the ESC BEC is 2A and i think 6 servos can go beyond that
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Old Apr 14, 2012, 08:11 AM
It's supposed to fly that way?
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My ESC (HobbyWing Petium 60 + 3amp UBEC as I'm using flaps) are located under the battery tray. I've used cut-down plastic spoons over the nostril intakes to improve the airflow, seems to work for me so far! My motor is a KD 2217-20T 22A 860Kv (220W), so I used ALL the firewalls supplied because of the reported weakness of the plastic if it gets hot! Again, so far no problems! The wing fixings are probably the only downside to this model, as it is VERY easy to round out the supplied crossheads, both on the stiffening strip and the wing mountings! I've substituted socket cap heads for them, and bought myself a small electric screwdriver! A recent mid-air snapped both wings off at the plastic mountings and though I've repaired and flown them again, I'm glad I've got a spare pair to build up!
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Old Apr 14, 2012, 09:57 AM
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Thanks...

Also.. i take Nylon is transparent to radio frequency as well ? (to run a 35mhz antenna inside)
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Old Apr 14, 2012, 10:39 AM
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Originally Posted by JLT_GTI View Post
Thanks...

Also.. i take Nylon is transparent to radio frequency as well ? (to run a 35mhz antenna inside)
Yes, nylon, plastics, fiberglass, etc. are fine. No carbon or metals, however, but you know that.

Ted
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Old Apr 14, 2012, 10:50 AM
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Thanks for all the advice guys!!!
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Old Apr 15, 2012, 01:45 PM
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Couple last questions about the firewalls mounting

-We have a plywood firewall.. a fiberglass one (i think) and a metal one..

How are you guys mounting them? the plywood one inside and the metal one outside? ..i have readed the dreadfull histories about motors melting the front firewall ... im using the 2836 wich is a 300W motor .

-would open the "extra ventilation" holes (like the ones in the mounts) in the front plastic (nylon) firewall be any worth using the stock spinner?

-Its the stock prop 10X6? I have arround also some aeronaut folding blades.. some 9X4 and a 11X4.. wonder if they would be more adecuate than the 10X6 ... they would be slower in top speed but as this is a glider and not a hotliner the 9X4 should decrease the max power drain and the 11X4 should increase thrust tought power drain should be similar

-Those who added the scoops in the front vent holes with spoons... have noticed the increased drag?

-The tail surfaces go bolted ... shoud i add glue to them or are they strong enought with the bolts alone..
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Old Apr 15, 2012, 10:09 PM
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Australia, New South Wales, Sydney
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Originally Posted by JLT_GTI View Post
How are you guys mounting them? the plywood one inside and the metal one outside? ..i have readed the dreadfull histories about motors melting the front firewall ... im using the 2836 wich is a 300W motor .
I think one really has to "try" in order to actually melt the firewall. Before I fixed up the nose of my P2K I ran the stock motor a bit too long a couple of times and ended up being unable to touch it (the motor) - that's how hot it was a few seconds after coming down. And yet, the stock firewall was fine. Based on that experience my guess is that melting through the firewall would take some dedicated WOT action, even with an upgraded motor (which presumably doesn't have to get much hotter for the same amount of oomph).

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-Its the stock prop 10X6? I have arround also some aeronaut folding blades.. some 9X4 and a 11X4.. wonder if they would be more adecuate than the 10X6 ... they would be slower in top speed but as this is a glider and not a hotliner the 9X4 should decrease the max power drain and the 11X4 should increase thrust tought power drain should be similar
Yes, the stock prop is a 10x6. Those props with 4" pitch might be slow to get the plane up high, but at least it'll be able to do it vertically

IMHO the 10x6 is a good fit. Quick and quiet operation when desired, and slow-speed cuising at low throttle settings.

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Originally Posted by JLT_GTI View Post
-The tail surfaces go bolted ... shoud i add glue to them or are they strong enought with the bolts alone..
Personally, I don't think it's necessary until and unless extra reinforcement is called for after a crash. The bolts seem plenty strong.
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Old Apr 16, 2012, 08:17 AM
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Man this building manual is pathetic.. im having trouble with the main building because it just says "screw the bolt" but omits what bolt goes there and there are like 4 or 5 diferent sizes..

for example.. wich screws go in the vertical stab? because i tried two sizes and both go throught and doesnt bite anything

Also even after bolting the tail the entire tail surfaces has some play in yaw ..like 0.5cm each side and its easily moved ... i think i will have to glue it
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