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Old Dec 04, 2012, 07:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Wregie View Post
Thanks I will keep fiddling.. Calm day today so I wll give it another couple of flights and then go from there.
That's the right approach. A little fiddling with one setting and then the other will lead to the right balance.

You might want to consider flapperons at some point to give the SC the opposite end of the performance spectrum: Super low speed flight and landings.

Here's a photo of mine.
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Old Dec 04, 2012, 07:40 AM
Chop it, cut it, bash it
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United States, CA, La Caņada Flintridge
Joined Jul 2011
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Love the scheme. Modeled after a real one?
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Old Dec 04, 2012, 07:42 AM
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Originally Posted by quitcherbitchen View Post
Love the scheme. Modeled after a real one?
Thanks. No, but I did look at a few of the original clipped wing cubs for inspiration though.
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Old Dec 04, 2012, 09:22 AM
NotAnotherMomentLostToSei zures
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United States, MA, Malden
Joined Mar 2008
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1900 Nice looking SC. I'm a bit confused though. You say you added "flapperons." Are they also called "ailerons"??? I see you can buy "aileron" kits for the SC.

BTW, Do any of you guys do what they call a "Glue Coat" to the wing and tail feathers? Also, there are only a handful of pics I saw with clear tape along the leading edge of the wing. Which brings me back to the glue coat question.

I still have to get to the hardware store to pick up some hooks to hang this beast on my wall....lol.

Mike.
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Old Dec 04, 2012, 10:08 AM
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I never did a glue coating. But I have run packing tape along the leading edge of the wing. I also ran a strip of packing tape across the bottom of the wing. Not quite from wingtip to wingtip but within a few inches for added strength.
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Old Dec 04, 2012, 11:25 AM
Chop it, cut it, bash it
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United States, CA, La Caņada Flintridge
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Originally Posted by Chap1012 View Post
1900 Nice looking SC. I'm a bit confused though. You say you added "flapperons." Are they also called "ailerons"??? I see you can buy "aileron" kits for the SC.

BTW, Do any of you guys do what they call a "Glue Coat" to the wing and tail feathers? Also, there are only a handful of pics I saw with clear tape along the leading edge of the wing. Which brings me back to the glue coat question.

I still have to get to the hardware store to pick up some hooks to hang this beast on my wall....lol.

Mike.
A friend of mine Left Coast DJ recently used 3M 77 tack glue as a primer and then painted his Funjet with Krylon. It came out super smooth. The injection relief flowers on the wings completely disappeared without sanding.
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Old Dec 04, 2012, 11:34 AM
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Originally Posted by Chap1012 View Post
1900 Nice looking SC. I'm a bit confused though. You say you added "flapperons." Are they also called "ailerons"??? I see you can buy "aileron" kits for the SC.

BTW, Do any of you guys do what they call a "Glue Coat" to the wing and tail feathers? Also, there are only a handful of pics I saw with clear tape along the leading edge of the wing. Which brings me back to the glue coat question.

I still have to get to the hardware store to pick up some hooks to hang this beast on my wall....lol.

Mike.
First you have to have the ailerons installed, then if you have a computer radio:

Flapperons are a programmed function that is mixed with the ailerons on computer radios. It's generally assigned to the flap switch so that when the flap switch is off you have ailerons only and then when you flip the flap switch to position 1 or 2 you get partial or full flaps while still maintaining the aileron function.
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Old Dec 04, 2012, 04:14 PM
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Norwood, CO
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Originally Posted by Wregie View Post
Have you tried altering the AoA?
The problem I had with down trim was that when I throttled back I had to pull back on th stick. I was hoping to get it trimmed a bit more neutral across the rev range or am I dreaming?
I've taken a few hours of flight, no expert. But every attitude change, and conversely, every power input requires manually trimming the aircraft. Also, in an airplane, more power = more altitude, elevator changes pitch of the plane, but does not 'make it go up' - only power can overcome gravity.

Our models respond much the same way (A disconnect occurs with 3 channel rudder w/ dihedral planes in that we can get away with turning simply using rudder because of the dihedral - in full scale aircraft, that would simply result in a radical yaw with little if any change in forward direction.)

All to say you will not find a perfect across the board solution. Make sure your plane has the control surfaces set to a true neutral to begin with so you have equal potential to trim right/left, or up/down and make sure if flies straight and level thus trimmed.

That accomplished, I suggest trimming your plane for best hands off control without power in glide. That way if you get in trouble, and you were prudent enough to be '3 mistakes high', probably 45-60' in an SC, you can 'let go', neutralize controls, and you'll be back in a stable glide in 20 feet or so.

It's not too much of a discipline to take off, reduce power slightly, with slight down elevator, nor is it to feed power in slowly as you give slight down elevator to keep from popping up in pitch and becoming less than controllable.

We do have some trimming capability on our transmitters (I use a Dx5e and an Orange rx w/ satelite). I have not utilized it as in a full scale aircraft, but it could be done. Usually we want to do less than sedate maneuvers and are willing to simply attempt to overcome problems with stick control only.

Good flyin',
Jackson
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Old Dec 04, 2012, 04:27 PM
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Norwood, CO
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Originally Posted by fishycomics View Post
Bananarama, you know that song.


so allow me some- heck found it.

If you take note I eventually found the right bottle and got one done, just never used it. 10 months ago, I am still on the same cowl, with cutting the front out some.

trick we do to prevent the cowl from cracking is to apply tape on the INSIDE, and you do not need to go through all this trouble

I used masking tape

https://vimeo.com/35476436

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

1500 ft plus give or take. using a altimeter by Eagle tree.

dam everytime I try looking at vimeo I see a picture
Alright! I had no idea pop bottles would shrink with heat - you'd think I'd never paid attention when throwing one in a fire. Hilarious video style, btw. All you would need is a better plastic. Not that the cowls aren't cheap enough, they are; but it's always a blast to do it yourself. A little mold release on the master cowl would be helpful. I have used 2 liter bottles for making a replacement canopy for my Radian, but that was just finding the right section and cutting it out.

That's a heavy duty heat gun. Do you use that in a profession?

Thanks for posting.

Jackson
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Old Dec 04, 2012, 04:30 PM
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Norwood, CO
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Originally Posted by zamjohn View Post
I am now flying my super cub with floats here in the cold north country. I have 480 motor in mine w/40A speed control & 10/7 apc prop. Took it up last saturday for first time w/floats and I was pretty nervous but it took off near as fast as w/gear and no I didn't have to rebalance cg. It is really a blast to fly with floats on snow. I find the landings so much easier and more graceful on snow. Had about 15-20km wind and it did toss plane around a little more and the turns were a little slower. I will try my other wing w/ailerons to see if turns sharpen up a bit. Not sure how to go about making skis as I would like to try that as well with the super cub?
Most challenging thing now is keeping fingers warm
Dubro has the skis cheap enough. It's a lot of fun, but you need that nice flat crust the wind puts on a snowfall for best results. Very smooth. Floats work in powder where the skis don't do so well.

Fun flyin'
Jackson
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Old Dec 04, 2012, 04:46 PM
Me a long time ago
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London N.E. UK
Joined Jan 2007
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Plastic bottles can also be shrunk around a mold by placing in a hot oven.
Agreed that the motor cowlings are cheap. But at present they are difficult to find in stock.
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Old Dec 04, 2012, 09:38 PM
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Thank you. what more can I say, but thank you.

Trouble is I do not drink soda, Lol so when I found the right bottle,, worked just fine.

For around $7.00 a new cowl can be ordered online, shipped. So for what I spent on the project.

$5.00 some heat, some time and a found bottle. Priceless.

Yes the heat gun can be found around all over.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000TROZPU/...SIN=B000TROZPU

$125.00. Bigger does not mean better.. any el cheapo will do the job. but heck some people vent more steam and heat on this site, than that heat gun alone.
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Old Dec 04, 2012, 09:52 PM
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United States, WV, St Albans
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Originally Posted by fishycomics View Post
Thank you. what more can I say, but thank you.

Trouble is I do not drink soda, Lol so when I found the right bottle,, worked just fine.

For around $7.00 a new cowl can be ordered online, shipped. So for what I spent on the project.

$5.00 some heat, some time and a found bottle. Priceless.

Yes the heat gun can be found around all over.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000TROZPU/...SIN=B000TROZPU

$125.00. Bigger does not mean better.. any el cheapo will do the job. but heck some people vent more steam and heat on this site, than that heat gun alone.
Wow, $7.00, I'd look into your method too. Makes me wonder how much you are paying for the rest of the plane.
My local hobby shop carries the Super Cub cowl for $2.89 and has them in stock most of the time. However, I admire your ingenuity.

Jim
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Old Dec 05, 2012, 02:09 AM
Tally Ho Chaps!
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United Kingdom, England, Ipswich
Joined Mar 2012
452 Posts
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Originally Posted by Flypoppa View Post
Plastic bottles can also be shrunk around a mold by placing in a hot oven.
Agreed that the motor cowlings are cheap. But at present they are difficult to find in stock.
http://www.wheelspinmodels.co.uk/s/?...cowl&x=21&y=15

Hey Pops, I get all my cub spares here. Generally delivery in a couple of days and they send you some nice stickers as well.

Snow today!!!
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Old Dec 05, 2012, 02:49 AM
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HH and HZ must do well with all the spare parts sales...
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