Originally Posted by jaksno

10x6 wood works real well with the 450 - looks scale, too.

jaksno

I don't like wooden props. Too many termites problems.

Originally Posted by 2500GENE

A very small drop of CA on the end of the axle before putting the plastic nut back on will eliminate that from ever happening again.
Don't let it stick to the wheel.

Thanks, will do that

I'm working on a Piper cub project and I want to paint it in traditional J-3 Cub yellow and black.

I going brushless using this motor



I'd like to put on a wooden prop, or a plastic prop that LOOKS wooden to enhance the "real look".

Could someone suggest a wooden prop or plastic prop that looks wooden that will work w/ this motor?

When I search for wooden props they all seem to way a lot more than the plastic props and I worry that's not good, will they cause too much wear n tear on the motor?

I.E. PKZ1019 weighs 0.4 grams http://www.wholesaletrains.com/Detai...0817720http://

Whereas the Turnigy ultra-light wooden prop 10x6 weighs 35 grams. http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...idProduct=8825

Thanks.

as you found, wood props are heavier and usually better suited to gas/nitro motors. you can use them with electric (brushless) but it means higher amps and more battery used to turn it. as long as the motor and battery can handle the amps it should be fine. expect lower flight times, though.

Originally Posted by lowdive

as you found, wood props are heavier and usually better suited to gas/nitro motors. you can use them with electric (brushless) but it means higher amps and more battery used to turn it. as long as the motor and battery can handle the amps it should be fine. expect lower flight times, though.

Ok, thank you sir, the main reason I'm going brushless and a bigger battery 2600mah, is to get longer flight times. So the plastic lighter prop will work better for me.

Thanks again.

What kind of wood props are you guys using? I checked the props I use most on my 450 and 480 re powered SC and found a wood Top Flite 10X5 is 14 grams, a plastic MAS Electric 10X8 is 17 grams, a wood Zinger 10X6 is 18 grams and a plastic APC 10X6 is 22 grams. I've not noticed a discernible difference in flight time and after my usual 12 minute flights my motor, ESC and battery are not much above ambient temps.

In my experience, the 8 gram between the props does not make significant difference in amp draw or flight time.

Jim

Originally Posted by WVrailfan

What kind of wood props are you guys using? I checked the props I use most on my 450 and 480 re powered SC and found a wood Top Flite 10X5 is 14 grams, a plastic MAS Electric 10X8 is 17 grams, a wood Zinger 10X6 is 18 grams and a plastic APC 10X6 is 22 grams. I've not noticed a discernible difference in flight time and after my usual 12 minute flights my motor, ESC and battery are not much above ambient temps.

In my experience, the 8 gram between the props does not make significant difference in amp draw or flight time.

Jim

Well SWEET this is what I need to look for then. I'd love to have a wooden prop on my J-3 build of the Hobbyzone Super Cub. It's a work in progress so I'm still gathering materials.

I'll search for this wood Top Flite 10X5 you're referring to.

Thank you.

Stupid question alert....

Does anyone struggle squeezing the battery into the fuselage? Is their a simple mod to make it easier?

I put the end with the wire leads in first with the wire ends tucked up and out of the way. IOnce that end of the battery is in I then push the other end in. Its a tight fit but it usually goes in pretty smoothly.

Originally Posted by Boro

Stupid question alert....

Does anyone struggle squeezing the battery into the fuselage? Is their a simple mod to make it easier?

Stick it, or any other sized batt. underneath and forget about it

Originally Posted by Boro

Stupid question alert....

Does anyone struggle squeezing the battery into the fuselage? Is their a simple mod to make it easier?

I'm using the stock 11.1v 1300mah 3S Lipos from parkzone. I took my wife's finger-nail scissors and clipped out the back of the batter box. This way I didn't have to remove the entire box. I DID NOT clip out the back supports that connect to the screws to the battery box lid. I only clipped out the middle section.

Now I can slip the stock battery in and out w/ the label facing me as I put the battery in, so the label would be facing the ground once installed. The wires face towards the front of the plane, this allows me to slip the back of the batter in first, into the empty space I cut out from the battery box/cage. This has helped me out a lot. Prior to doing this I always felt like I was going to break something attempting to put the batteries in.

Hope this helps.

Not just me then. Cheers

The box was originally designed for nicads that's why it is so small.

The problem is that without support of some kind, the plane feels really fragile when you put the battery in. My solution was to buy a 15 dollar airplane work stand. Now I just flip the plane on it's back in the stand and gently press the battery in with the wires facing toward the back of the plane. Fits nice and stays put.

when i first got my cub i used gentle consistent pressure to get the battery in. eventually i think the bbox adapted as well or maybe i just don't notice it anymore. but yeah, the first few times was annoying.