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Old Sep 09, 2011, 04:31 AM
The figure "9" Specialist
aeronca's Avatar
A Barrier Island in New Jersey, USA
Joined Oct 2003
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Originally Posted by SonicRaT View Post
What I meant was, they're left floppy so that they absorb/flex to give a smoother flight characteristic as would be ideal for a trainer. With them under tension, the roughness of the air will be more apt to travel into the fuse. Nothing severe, but functional to an extent! Unsightly, though. lol.
The struts are somewhat ugly when the model is static on the ground but they allow the wing to flex into a slightly more exaggerated dihedral when flying, yet they contain that increased dihedral to prevent wing snap. This is a very desirable attribute for a trainer but if you're experienced, a more taut set of struts makes visual and functional sense.

Aeronca
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Old Sep 09, 2011, 07:25 AM
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anaheim, ca
Joined Apr 2005
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dunno about your struts, but mine (if i used them) have more of a slot than a hole on the end that connects to the fuselage. you can tighten the screws with the struts pulled tight. don't tighten too much, though. that will still allow them to pull out to the loose position when needed. ain't no thang!
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Old Sep 09, 2011, 07:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SonicRaT View Post
What I meant was, they're left floppy so that they absorb/flex to give a smoother flight characteristic as would be ideal for a trainer. With them under tension, the roughness of the air will be more apt to travel into the fuse. Nothing severe, but functional to an extent! Unsightly, though. lol.
I don't think it really matters. I've studied my "struts" in level, unaccelerated flight (no G loading) and they're taught anyway...just looks like crap on the ground. Heck, just pick up the plane halfway out on each wing panel and its own weight will flex the wing up and pull them taught. And, that's not even taking into account lift and G forces encountered in flight. Negative G flight characteristics are unaffected since the wing will flex downward (relative to fuselage) regardless of how tight the "struts" are. There's nothing limiting downward flex... So, whether they're taught on the ground or not, it doesn't matter in flight. And, unlike the other post above suggested, I'm not talking about tightening them down so much that dihedral is taken out of the wing...just taking up the SLACK...
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Old Sep 09, 2011, 07:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lowdive View Post
dunno about your struts, but mine (if i used them) have more of a slot than a hole on the end that connects to the fuselage. you can tighten the screws with the struts pulled tight. don't tighten too much, though. that will still allow them to pull out to the loose position when needed. ain't no thang!
Yeah, mine have the slots, too. They're pulled all the way in and have been so since day one. Still way floppy... It's as if they're too long and/or the mounting points going through the foam wing are too close to the root. Yes, the hooks are installed correctly, too...
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Old Sep 10, 2011, 06:52 AM
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Australia, QLD, Townsville
Joined Aug 2011
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Prop

What a good prop from hobbyking for my brushless upgrade?

I got a Turnigy 450 890kv
25a redbrick esc
3s 2200mah 20c battery
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Old Sep 10, 2011, 08:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Theyoungflyer698 View Post
What a good prop from hobbyking for my brushless upgrade?

I got a Turnigy 450 890kv
25a redbrick esc
3s 2200mah 20c battery
I realize this is a "Give a man a fish/Teach a man to fish" kind of answer, but if you read this, you'll never have to ask that question again:

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1136470

Feel free to ask questions, too. Chuck doesn't bite... much.
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Old Sep 10, 2011, 11:12 PM
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United States, VA, Williamsburg
Joined Jul 2011
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Programming Flaperons w/ DX6i

I just added ailerons to my Super Cub (everything else is stock), and now I'm trying to program flaperons with my DX6i. I'm trying to set it up so that when I flip the flap switch the ailerons go down 50% and the rudder control moves to the right stick (with no aileron control on the right stick). Basically, when the flaperons are down I want to control the Super Cub just like when it was a 3 channel plane.

I've got the flaperons and aileron-rudder mix figured out, but I can't get the right stick to only move the rudder and not the ailerons.

Is this possible, and if so, how?

Thanks!
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Old Sep 11, 2011, 08:55 AM
Chop it, cut it, bash it
quitcherbitchen's Avatar
United States, CA, La Caņada Flintridge
Joined Jul 2011
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I don't own a DX6i, but I don't think what you want is possible. Usually the assigned flip switches and sticks cannot be converted back and forth on the fly. Check with the guys in the radio forum.
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Old Sep 11, 2011, 10:08 AM
Bruno, GOOD DOG
A Rdnek's Avatar
United States, IA, Grinnell
Joined Aug 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by enracer View Post
I just added ailerons to my Super Cub (everything else is stock), and now I'm trying to program flaperons with my DX6i. I'm trying to set it up so that when I flip the flap switch the ailerons go down 50% and the rudder control moves to the right stick (with no aileron control on the right stick). Basically, when the flaperons are down I want to control the Super Cub just like when it was a 3 channel plane.

I've got the flaperons and aileron-rudder mix figured out, but I can't get the right stick to only move the rudder and not the ailerons.

Is this possible, and if so, how?

Thanks!
I don't know if it is possible. But you don't want to do that anyway.
Barn door ailerons when used as flaps cause TIP STALL which usually ends up in a 1 point landing on the nose.
Think about it. Airplanes with flaps have the flaps located in close to the fuselage, where it does not cause the wing tips to stall.
If you use barn door ailerons as flaps, when deployed, it causes a lot of lift out at the wing tip and the tip will stall way sooner the rest of the wing, and with the tips in a stall condition you loose roll control.
If you want to do anything with your mix give the ailerons a slight amount of reflex, (up, maybe about 1/8 inch) when you deploy them. That will allow the wing to slow down without having the tips stall .
Ron
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Old Sep 11, 2011, 01:30 PM
Philippians 4:13
Seward, NE
Joined Nov 2006
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This motor http://www.headsuprc.com/servlet/the...-for-HZ/Detail
came in the mail yesterday and I was so excited to mount up my 3530 but when I lined things up I noticed that it came up pretty short of the cowl. Dang. I was hoping not to use spacers with this mount... that was the purpose of the mount I guess. I have been using a home made mount (shown on my blog) for several years with no problems at all but really wanted to use a real one. Dang it. Anyone have a neat and clean solution to bringing the motor forward while using this mount?
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Old Sep 11, 2011, 01:50 PM
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Originally Posted by ty_horn View Post
Anyone have a neat and clean solution to bringing the motor forward while using this mount?
Is a longer shaft available for that motor?
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Old Sep 11, 2011, 01:52 PM
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Tallahassee, FL
Joined Sep 2009
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That mount is really for the 3536. Spacers and longer screws.
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Old Sep 11, 2011, 03:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Theyoungflyer698 View Post
What a good prop from hobbyking for my brushless upgrade?

I got a Turnigy 450 890kv
25a redbrick esc
3s 2200mah 20c battery
Oh, and when you do figure it out on your own, let us know what you decide!
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Old Sep 11, 2011, 03:57 PM
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United States, KY, Madisonville
Joined Mar 2011
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Originally Posted by girmann View Post
Oh, and when you do figure it out on your own, let us know what you decide!
From hk, try the 9x6. What you really want is a 10 x 7e.
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Old Sep 11, 2011, 03:59 PM
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What's a better prop than the stock one for the stock motor/gearbox? If there is such a thing, how would it affect flight times over the stock setup?
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