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I think the small 3 and 4 channel coaxes are pretty good sources of entertainment, but don't help you learn how to fly a heli. A larger 4 channel coax of 15" - 20" length will give you a much better feel for the physics of helicopter performance. The self-stabilizing single rotors are likely to keep your interest longer and get you a little closer to flying a conventional heli. But, they require careful shopping. If it has weights instead of paddles on the flybar, it has a head design that will make the heli behave almost identically to a coax, so you may be better off buying a coax for cost and durability. If you are going to buy a self-stabilizing single rotor FP heli, make sure it has flybar paddles. It will take you further.
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Latest blog entry: Some stuff
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The 120SR BNF is a fine idea, but go for the DX6i, DX7 or DX8 right away. Then you won't need to buy another radio later on. The DX5 is a waste of money.
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Latest blog entry: Some stuff
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The DX5e can't be used for anything else, so why waste the money? A good sim, like Real Flight comes with it's own controller. Phoenix also has different high-end controller options you can use. The biggest mistake most people make with this hobby is trying to do it cheaply. That will greatly increase your learning time and frustration. A DX6i or DX7 has very good resale value, so you aren't risking real much.
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Latest blog entry: Some stuff
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Flybarless?
I have seen this term many times, but have no idea what this is. I have tried searching for an explanation, but I couldn't find anything basic, like "What is it?" and "What does it do? and "What is it good or bad?" If anyone could point me to a link, I would like to learn about it. Thank you. Wrong Way |
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Quote:
The flybar is ( for lack of a better term ) a stabilizer .. to over simplify, the servos move the flybar , which in turn adjusts the pitch of the blades. flybarless is more efficient ( less parasitic drag on the head ) and a much simpler head ( read less linkage ) and also makes the head more responsive. Which can be both good and bad. flybarless can also put much more strain on your servos as any forces placed on the blades need to be directly overcome by the servos. while in theory a flybarless heli can be flown without any additional electronics , most folks that go flybarless use some sort of 'electronic' flybar ( 3 axis gryo system ) to make it more controllable. a quick google found this http://www.collectibles-articles.com...and-Outs/17046 which seems to touch on the major points pretty well .. |
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"Adequate" being the operative word. Will it work? Of course it will. It's just better with nicer equipment. Everyone who's flown an mSR with stock radio who's moved onto a DX6i said that it is a night and day difference, even before adding custom maps for heli mode programming. You can get BNF's shipped to your door for $89 new. I've seen used mSR rtf's go for less than that, so that way it'd be a foot in the door so to speak (although used heli's can be a crap shoot as to if it still flies right). I have heard of people having issues with losing their bind (connection between transmitter and heli) with stock radios, but this is not the norm; but it does happen. You can always just get a used (or new) rtf to save some cash now and see if the sport is for you, whether it's mSR or SR 120. Both are excellent machines and if you decide to upgrade later, you "might" be able to sell the tx for fifteen bucks or something to put towards a radio that will grow with your r/c collection. Trust me, I know how you feel about the cost of the radio, my radio was $149, and the heli (had I not got batts and charger too) would've been $89; but I also knew for a fact I would be buying more heli's later that would also use it. (so in my head I just divide the price of the radio by the r/c's it controls and it seems much easier to swallow, haha)
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