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Old Jan 18, 2011, 12:00 AM
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Canada, BC, Central Okanagan H
Joined Jun 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phantom1500 View Post
just installed board and back light, very easy to flash and load.
Prob is the back light wont turn on, set switch to GEA and off after OFF.

fitted with white facing up when looking into the open case and plugged into board.
How I envision that description... then that is your problem. The white side is the side that lights up. It needs to be facing your LCD.

- Steven
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Old Jan 18, 2011, 02:20 AM
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Australia, New South Wales, Hobartville
Joined Jan 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by s_mack View Post
How I envision that description... then that is your problem. The white side is the side that lights up. It needs to be facing your LCD.

- Steven
Almost wet myself laughing, was in such a rush I made a 50/50 guess and got it wrong!
Opened up the tx and turned the panel white side down and checked....hay it works :-)

Great product guys, super easy to save and write to and from tx.
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Old Jan 18, 2011, 05:54 PM
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Nevermind i got it.
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Old Jan 19, 2011, 01:22 AM
It's pronounced Caveman...
Reno, NV
Joined Nov 2009
437 Posts
I got my programmer and installed it tonight. Seemed to go smoothly, no bits of plastic on the pins that I can see, but it had strange behavior and doesn't seem to work at this time.

I plugged in the USB for the first time with the radio off, and the radio beeped for a second or so, I heard the computer indicate that it saw a usb device, then it seemed to stop beeping. Now whenever I plug in the programmer, it displays an "unknown device" in windows 7 32bit, which I cannot install the driver for (assuming the usbasp 2009-2-28 driver is the one I should be using).

Please let me know what I should do to troubleshoot. I have already removed and reseated the board with no further success. The radio powers up fine on battery power, but I can't get the USB to recognize the device, and the screen doesn't power up while plugged into usb (not sure if this is the correct behavior or not).



BTW, I also tried this driver and still no luck.

Also, I've tried 2 USB mini cables, and 2 different Windows 7 32bit laptops.
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Old Jan 19, 2011, 01:46 AM
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USA, CA, Ahwahnee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by c4v3man View Post
I got my programmer and installed it tonight. Seemed to go smoothly, no bits of plastic on the pins that I can see, but it had strange behavior and doesn't seem to work at this time.

I plugged in the USB for the first time with the radio off, and the radio beeped for a second or so, I heard the computer indicate that it saw a usb device, then it seemed to stop beeping. Now whenever I plug in the programmer, it displays an "unknown device" in windows 7 32bit, which I cannot install the driver for (assuming the usbasp 2009-2-28 driver is the one I should be using).

Please let me know what I should do to troubleshoot. I have already removed and reseated the board with no further success. The radio powers up fine on battery power, but I can't get the USB to recognize the device, and the screen doesn't power up while plugged into usb (not sure if this is the correct behavior or not).

For me the backlight is the only thing that powers up when plugged into the USB.... Does it light up for you? If you have the backlight.....
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Old Jan 19, 2011, 02:01 AM
I don't speak German ....Yet !
GrootWitBaas's Avatar
Germany, Baden-Württemberg, Weissach im Tal
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c4v3man, the driver you linked to is 64bit, but you said 32bit. Also I will suggest checking all contacts, sounds like one is not good. remove and clean all pads then re insert and make sure it is firmly in place.
Radio switch should be off. when plugged in to usb radio will power on from usb.
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Old Jan 19, 2011, 02:14 AM
It's pronounced Caveman...
Reno, NV
Joined Nov 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GrootWitBaas View Post
c4v3man, the driver you linked to is 64bit, but you said 32bit. Also I will suggest checking all contacts, sounds like one is not good. remove and clean all pads then re insert and make sure it is firmly in place.
Radio switch should be off. when plugged in to usb radio will power on from usb.
I understand the driver I linked to is 64bit, but sometimes driver zips include both.
I've also tried this driver.

I tried physically pressing down on the board while plugging in the usb and still no go.

I don't have pure rubbing alcohol, so I'll have to buy some tomorrow I guess.

Also, should the tx battery be hooked up, disconnected, or it doesn't matter?

I'd prefer to tear it apart one or two more times (to avoid stressing the screw threads) so a thorough list of things to test (such as resistance levels, checking to ensure that USB pins are going to the right pins on the programmer, etc) would be nice.

Shoot, was really looking forward to getting this running before this weekend...

I'm taking it into the office tomorrow (today I guess... dang it's late) and see if it has any better luck. Perhaps both mine and my wifes dell laptops don't provide enough power over USB? Seems unlikely, considering they're different model/product lines, but it's possible.
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Old Jan 19, 2011, 02:40 AM
I don't speak German ....Yet !
GrootWitBaas's Avatar
Germany, Baden-Württemberg, Weissach im Tal
Joined Dec 2010
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Any usb will have enough power. If you have the board out of the radio you should see the usbasp when connected.

Edit:
List to do testing

1 for 32bit driver refer to post #1 in this thread
2 with board removed from radio, connect usb and confirm windows sees it correctly as usbasp
3 make sure all pads are clean
4 wiggle the board a small bit to see it is tight and on the right place
5 power switch on radio should be off when connecting to pc, radio should power up from the usb port


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Old Jan 19, 2011, 11:59 AM
It's pronounced Caveman...
Reno, NV
Joined Nov 2009
437 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by GrootWitBaas View Post
Any usb will have enough power. If you have the board out of the radio you should see the usbasp when connected.

Edit:
List to do testing

1 for 32bit driver refer to post #1 in this thread
2 with board removed from radio, connect usb and confirm windows sees it correctly as usbasp
3 make sure all pads are clean
4 wiggle the board a small bit to see it is tight and on the right place
5 power switch on radio should be off when connecting to pc, radio should power up from the usb port


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Removed the board again and tried hooking up to computer at work with no success. Went to get the multimeter that is always at the office, and apparently it's been taken home by someone or something. I do have a few multimeters at home, so I'll have to continue my diagnostics there.

Looking at the board and usb connector more closely, I noticed the grey wire on the USB sub-board was bent down and could be contacting the yellow terminal. Bending the grey wire back actually showed that one of the wire-strands on the cable was wrapped around the able instead of put through the hole before soldering. Because of this extra "width" with the single strand wrapped around the cable I'm thinking it did contact the +5V cable/solderpoint. I bent the cable back and still no luck on getting the computer to recognize the chip, but would connecting d- to +5v cause the board to fry? Like I said, the first time I connected the board the radio seemed to come on (it did seem to turn on the buzzer) briefly then stop.

On a positive note, I would like to mention that I appreciate the design of the usb-board, and how it slots in perfectly to the left of the battery compartment. I thought the terminal would simply float in the hole, not that it was "keyed" to slot into there.
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Old Jan 19, 2011, 12:44 PM
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Canada, BC, Central Okanagan H
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c4v3man... let's see if I can help.

First... let's concentrate on your PC.

Unplug the USB. Open up your Device Manger (Click Start menu, in the search box type in "Device Manager" and hit enter and it should open). Now plug in the USB and wait a bit. One of four possibilities should occur:

1) It works and you see and entry for "LibUSB-Win32 Devices" with a sub-entry for "USBasp". In this case, it is not at all driver/pc/computer related and we need to focus elsewhere.
2) It knows what it is ("USBasp") but comes up with a "No driver found" message and it is listed in your device manager under "Other devices" with a sub-entry for "USBasp" but has a little ! icon beside it. In this case it is absolutely a driver issue and it just needs to be installed correctly.
3) It doesn't know what it is and says "unrecognized device" (and I can't remember where it puts it on the list). In this case, it is hardware... either the cable (most likely) or the board.
4) It does nothing. In this case, the PC isn't even recognizing that something was plugged in. Again, its hardware and either the cable or the board.


#1 means you probably don't have a problem at all and you're just not using it right. It doesn't sound like this is your issue, so moving on...

#2 means you simply don't have the correct driver. Since it worked briefly, again I doubt this is your issue, so moving on...

#3 and 4 can be practically treated the same. So let's look at that.

As you've stated, it looks like maybe I didn't do a great job with one of the wires and a strand may have come loose. This seems plausible since it passed my tests here and worked for you briefly so its very likely that while you were installing/moving things that the strand came in contact with one of the other wires. To answer your question, no I don't think it would fry anything. I've mis-wired these things every which way and in 100% of the cases, once I corrected the wiring the problem went away with no permanent damage. Possible? Sure, but not likely. So I'd concentrate here. Use a meter to confirm that GND, +5v, D+ and D- are all getting to their intended targets. Ideally, start at opposite ends. That means touching one lead from your meter (set to continuity testing) to one of the pins on the board header and the other end on the corresponding tiny pin of the USB header. This might be difficult because they are so small. After you confirmed that they all go where they are supposed to, now confirm that none go where they aren't supposed to (ie. test for shorts). The easiest way to do this is right on the USB header board. Touch one lead to GND and then the other lead to D+ then D- then +5v and it should be dead each time. The move the first lead to D+ and touch the other to D- then +5v. Finally move the first lead to D- and touch the other to +5v. If you've done that, then you've gone through every combination. If none of them were shorted (ie. all were dead) then you're good on that front.

If all the above was successful and did not identify any problems, then it must be on the board itself. It could be that C1, D1 or D2 are fried or that the main CPU (IC1) got damaged somehow... or I made a mistake on the soldering somewhere and it was good enough to pass my test and your initial few seconds but failed since. In any of these cases... unless you want to tackle fixing it yourself, I suggest we do a replacement. Use my shop's page for that.

I hope that helps!

- Steven
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Old Jan 19, 2011, 12:48 PM
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Canada, BC, Central Okanagan H
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Also, rule out a short on your radio by removing the device from the radio and then seeing if it works with regard to your PC. Obviously it needs to be installed in your radio to be of any practical use to you, but from you PC's point of view, it doesn't need to be in the radio to be recognized. If it works out of your radio but not in it, then that's something different entirely.

- Steven
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Old Jan 19, 2011, 12:59 PM
It's pronounced Caveman...
Reno, NV
Joined Nov 2009
437 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by s_mack View Post
Unplug the USB. Open up your Device Manger (Click Start menu, in the search box type in "Device Manager" and hit enter and it should open). Now plug in the USB and wait a bit. One of four possibilities should occur:

3) It doesn't know what it is and says "unrecognized device" (and I can't remember where it puts it on the list). In this case, it is hardware... either the cable (most likely) or the board.

#3 and 4 can be practically treated the same. So let's look at that.

As you've stated, it looks like maybe I didn't do a great job with one of the wires and a strand may have come loose. This seems plausible since it passed my tests here and worked for you briefly so its very likely that while you were installing/moving things that the strand came in contact with one of the other wires. To answer your question, no I don't think it would fry anything. I've mis-wired these things every which way and in 100% of the cases, once I corrected the wiring the problem went away with no permanent damage. Possible? Sure, but not likely. So I'd concentrate here. Use a meter to confirm that GND, +5v, D+ and D- are all getting to their intended targets. Ideally, start at opposite ends. That means touching one lead from your meter (set to continuity testing) to one of the pins on the board header and the other end on the corresponding tiny pin of the USB header. This might be difficult because they are so small. After you confirmed that they all go where they are supposed to, now confirm that none go where they aren't supposed to (ie. test for shorts). The easiest way to do this is right on the USB header board. Touch one lead to GND and then the other lead to D+ then D- then +5v and it should be dead each time. The move the first lead to D+ and touch the other to D- then +5v. Finally move the first lead to D- and touch the other to +5v. If you've done that, then you've gone through every combination. If none of them were shorted (ie. all were dead) then you're good on that front.

If all the above was successful and did not identify any problems, then it must be on the board itself. It could be that C1, D1 or D2 are fried or that the main CPU (IC1) got damaged somehow... or I made a mistake on the soldering somewhere and it was good enough to pass my test and your initial few seconds but failed since. In any of these cases... unless you want to tackle fixing it yourself, I suggest we do a replacement. Use my shop's page for that.

I hope that helps!

- Steven
Case 3) is what I am experiencing.

I will test for those shorts tonight, since I don't have access to a meter presently.

My soldering skills are improving, but I don't know if they're good enough to replace components on the board... not yet anyways. I can re-solder the usb board, but remounting surface chips is something I haven't deal with before.

And I have tested the board this morning uninstalled from the radio and it still gives 3)
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Old Jan 19, 2011, 01:22 PM
I don't speak German ....Yet !
GrootWitBaas's Avatar
Germany, Baden-Württemberg, Weissach im Tal
Joined Dec 2010
774 Posts
No 3 could still be a driver, can you right click and then chose a new driver?


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Old Jan 19, 2011, 01:23 PM
It's pronounced Caveman...
Reno, NV
Joined Nov 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GrootWitBaas View Post
No 3 could still be a driver, can you right click and then chose a new driver?


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Yes, it will not accept any of the driver's I've tried.
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Old Jan 19, 2011, 01:24 PM
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just a thought...did you extract the actual folder (usbasp-windriver........) folder?

XP could not locate the driver files as the folder was from the download untill I saw the "extract entire folder" to the side of the open window, after that I selected the extracted source and I worked fine.
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