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Old Jan 16, 2011, 01:53 PM
Registered Loser
Canada, BC, Central Okanagan H
Joined Jun 2010
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The USB header came right off???

If I did it right (and I'm not saying I did... I've most definately made mistakes!) then the four corner posts should have been soldered down as well as 4 of the 5 tiny pins. Did I forget to solder the corner posts on yours?? If those posts were soldered then it would (should) have taken a LOT of force to knock it off.

Anyway, yes of course it can be replaced. If it was my screwup (and it sounds like it was) then no charge. The problem is finding one to send you. I'm sold out of kits but I might have a couple somewhere. Send me an email, with your order number if you have it (full name works too), and let me know if your have a Rev 1 (green) or Rev 2 (white) board. Although, I guess for the USB part the Rev doesn't make a difference. I'll take care of you.

- Steven
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Old Jan 16, 2011, 02:22 PM
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CALIFORNIA
Joined Jan 2005
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Thanks for quick reply

It didn't need excessive force to come off as I was handling it rather carefully
I think corner posts were (almost) clean and tiny pins were holding it in place

I think it is a good idea to check it before installing (I could have reinforced it if I checked it before installing it)

Anyway I just sent you an e-mail through the link you provided and I have revision 2 (white board)

Thanks a bunch!
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Old Jan 16, 2011, 04:10 PM
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Canada, BC, Central Okanagan H
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Sadly, that's the 2nd time I made that mistake

That's the problem doing it all by hand... especially for me. I'm more of a "thinker" than a "doer" But this product just doesn't lend itself to the quantities required for automated production so I think I'm stuck hand soldering. I have the skills, but perhaps not the attention span?

I check each one for electrical functionality... that involves plugging a USB cable into it so I would have figured an obvious solder oops like that would have been evident at that point, but I guess not.

I'll try to be much more careful in the future. Your replacement will be in the mail tomorrow.

- Steven
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Old Jan 16, 2011, 04:36 PM
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Its good to know, that im not the only one where the corner posts werent soldered but as i told s_mack, a good friend repaired it and now it works perfect

@s_mack: have you read my post on page 12?
i think you should make a shrink-tube on every EL-contacts

(sry for bad school-english )
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Old Jan 16, 2011, 04:48 PM
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Canada, BC, Central Okanagan H
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You're the one from Germany then?

Yeah, you were the other one. I probably did both at the same time. And since I do 5 at a time... there could be 3 more out there.

The EL panel manufacturing is not done by me and I've already let them know their contacts could use improving. Your picture isn't very clear and I'm not sure how shrink-tube on the wires solves any contact issue (it doesn't look like your tubing even goes to the contacts!) but MOST of them are fine. If I have to do that to each one then I'm just gonna quit while I'm behind Too much work added to a project that's already too much work.

- Steven
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Old Jan 17, 2011, 06:41 AM
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Yes im the one from germany

Sry for the picture quality. i can make a better picture within the the next days.

with the shrink-tubes, i could fix 2 ELs, that are now working pefect.
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Old Jan 17, 2011, 07:09 AM
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USA, IA, Altoona
Joined Oct 2009
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Cap blown

Quote:
Originally Posted by erazz View Post
When you do that you usually blow the 7805 and a capacitor. The replacement is really simple.

Use a voltmeter to check the voltage across your 7805. If it's zero then it's blown. Just replace it with a normal one.
Yep found the blown cap and replaced, although it looks like 7805 is fine, but wasnt getting power input, followed the trace back and found a lift/burn of the trace coming from the battery on the front board. wired around the trace cut and walla, woohoo!!!

Thanks Erazz!!!!!

D
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Old Jan 17, 2011, 07:59 AM
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Joined Jun 2004
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Happily!

It's usually an easy fix. Pity to wait weeks on a new radio.
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Old Jan 17, 2011, 08:10 AM
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I just kickin myself in the A$$ for not double checking connections, especially power! :{
I could cancel the order, but now I suppose I can wait for backorder, though I did send HK an email saying its ok to substitute the M2 for a M1 as I will be replacing the firmware upon arrival.
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Old Jan 17, 2011, 10:08 AM
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Canada, BC, Central Okanagan H
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daniel N View Post
Yes im the one from germany

Sry for the picture quality. i can make a better picture within the the next days.

with the shrink-tubes, i could fix 2 ELs, that are now working pefect.
I'd like to see the picture so I better understand.

If you got a damaged USB and 2 ELs that weren't great (and I know they were from different piles since you got two different colors) then I'm guessing the German post gave your package a particularly rough ride. I'm glad you got it all fixed though!

- Steven
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Old Jan 17, 2011, 02:42 PM
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Frsky telemetry -> 9x Add-on

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Originally Posted by draconis View Post
Can the FrSky telemetry connector attach to the 9x addon board? USB?
I have both Frsky Telemetry tx/rx and the Add-on board with EL V2.

Has anyone connected the two together using the Frsky modded firmware???
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Old Jan 17, 2011, 04:22 PM
It's pronounced Caveman...
Reno, NV
Joined Nov 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by draconis View Post
I have both Frsky Telemetry tx/rx and the Add-on board with EL V2.

Has anyone connected the two together using the Frsky modded firmware???
According to the frsky telemetry discussion, sounds like you need to move 2 of the switches off of the variable channels and onto other channels, then solder the frsky to those freed up inputs. Don't think there will ever be a solderless solution to frsky telemetry unfortunately, unless Turnigy produces a 9x V3 with those channels already freed up (which would be easy to do). Heck, I think the 2 channels that are used for frsky input even have contact pads, so it'd be easy to tie into them if they weren't already in use.
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Old Jan 17, 2011, 11:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by s_mack View Post
Sadly, that's the 2nd time I made that mistake

That's the problem doing it all by hand... especially for me. I'm more of a "thinker" than a "doer" But this product just doesn't lend itself to the quantities required for automated production so I think I'm stuck hand soldering. I have the skills, but perhaps not the attention span?

I check each one for electrical functionality... that involves plugging a USB cable into it so I would have figured an obvious solder oops like that would have been evident at that point, but I guess not.

I'll try to be much more careful in the future. Your replacement will be in the mail tomorrow.

- Steven
Any easy way to prevent this is to make your self a check list, and check off each step as it's completed. Then recheck after you're done. I have to do that from time to time.
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Old Jan 17, 2011, 11:48 PM
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just installed board and back light, very easy to flash and load.
Prob is the back light wont turn on, set switch to GEA and off after OFF.

fitted with white facing up when looking into the open case and plugged into board.
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Old Jan 17, 2011, 11:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by radialarm View Post
Any easy way to prevent this is to make your self a check list, and check off each step as it's completed. Then recheck after you're done. I have to do that from time to time.
My best friend told me the same thing... and I disagree with both of you, respectfully

Of course, you (both) are right in once sense, but practicality is at play as well. Just look at the math... two (so far) out of a 125 and both in the same run during the busiest most rushed run I've done. That's really not too bad. If I had to add 5 minutes to each one to go over my checklist twice that means I spent an extra 10+ hours in total to avoid having made two dumb, but relatively minor, mistakes. OK, I've made more soldering mistakes then that... but even if we say I've made 10, that averages out to spending an extra hour on each one when the fix takes nowhere near that.

Expecting perfection is unrealistic. But I do take care of my customers. I own up to my mistakes and I strive to resolve them as quickly and completely as possible.

Each unit goes out having been programmed, USB tested, and EL voltage checked. Running those tests reveals most of the mistakes I make. Obviously I have to pay better attention to the USB posts. And I will, now that two got out like they did.

- Steven
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