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Old Dec 12, 2010, 04:42 PM
Did you check the FAQ already?
SoloProFan's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Donaldsneffe View Post
You should ad "remove the right servo mounting before soldering" - that's important, cause otherwise you easiliy damage the mounting. Additionally it is much easier to put the soldering iron from the servo mount side to the correct position (from the other side you can easily damage wires, etc.)

"Right servo mounting" = the right when you look at the front side of the rx (so left servo in heli).

And:
I told you - observe the rules, when using my pics. You did not do this. Do it, or remove my pics.

Walter
I soldered a couple of boards with the servos on, but it might help having more space.

What rules you mean? You are the first to emphasize observing this.


To be safe for now, removed the picture from the FAQ for now and replace it for another. Sadly this one is not nearly as clear as the picture Donaldsneffe posted, but as you have noticed I don't know if I can use that. Perhaps I am allowed to link to it instead, or I have to make my own picture as last resort...
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Old Dec 12, 2010, 04:54 PM
Crash & Burn
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SoloPro View Post
I'll see if I can find a good picture. Most pics show it soldered to the receiver, but that has some risks. A set of skids is much cheaper, and easily replaced when things go wrong.

Edit: Found a picture, and marked the places where you could put the wires. Remember to sand the metal strips a little, so the solder holds better. And don't apply heat too long, or the plastic around it will start to melt.

Soldered the leads on and it works like a charm. Now I can use the Turnigy and the OEM betteries too.

Thanks,

Bob
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Old Dec 13, 2010, 12:50 AM
Did you check the FAQ already?
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Was given permission to use the picture Donaldsneffe made (Thanks Walter!) so I changed the part about soldering the wires on the receiver back to how it was.

Plus added some thanking words to the conclusion of the FAQ, to thank everyone who is helping to make this FAQ what it is.

Added info about orientation of the links, inner hole and outer hole.
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Old Dec 14, 2010, 03:20 AM
Did you check the FAQ already?
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Added main motor replacement procedure, and how the motors are connected to the receiver. Plus updated flight times section with info about the Bravo SX.
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Old Dec 17, 2010, 01:05 PM
Crash & Burn
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I had the aileron servo locked up / not responding. After recalibrating, both aileron and elevator servos are not moving. The throttle works fine.

Any suggestions?
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Old Dec 17, 2010, 02:23 PM
Did you check the FAQ already?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmgmag View Post
I had the aileron servo locked up / not responding. After recalibrating, both aileron and elevator servos are not moving. The throttle works fine.

Any suggestions?
You calibrated the TX, so first entered "3 dotted lines mode"? Or are you referring to subtrims or even EPA mode?
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Old Dec 17, 2010, 02:30 PM
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Originally Posted by SoloPro View Post
You calibrated the TX, so first entered "3 dotted lines mode"? Or are you referring to subtrims or even EPA mode?


I entered the (3) dotted lines mode. I did not go into the subtrim or EPA mode, at least, not that I'm aware of.



Bob
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Old Dec 17, 2010, 02:33 PM
Did you check the FAQ already?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmgmag View Post
I entered the (3) dotted lines mode. I did not go into the subtrim or EPA mode, at least, not that I'm aware of.



Bob
Dit you try entering that mode again, and then move all sticks to full deflection in a circular motion a few times until the display returned to normal?
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Old Dec 17, 2010, 02:35 PM
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Originally Posted by SoloPro View Post
Dit you try entering that mode again, and then move all sticks to full deflection in a circular motion a few times until the display returned to normal?
Yes, that's exactly what I did.
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Old Dec 17, 2010, 02:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jaguar 20040 View Post
Can you just help to remember:

- how to enter the (3) dotted lines mode and what is its purpose?

- What means EPA mode?

Thank you.
Robert R.

Enter (3) dotted lines mode by pressing in both control sticks simultaneously. It is used to calibrate the controls.

EPA mode is used to change the endpoints of the servos, i.e. how far the servos will move for a given transmitter stick movement.
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Old Dec 17, 2010, 02:43 PM
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EPA mode
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=2804
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Old Dec 17, 2010, 02:57 PM
Did you check the FAQ already?
SoloProFan's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RogueTitan View Post
You all know the link to that posting is already included in the FAQ?


Quote:
Originally Posted by rmgmag View Post
Yes, that's exactly what I did.
That is weird, perhaps try rebinding instead?


General remark about EPA, don't use it when you don't have issues like servos locking up, or moving not far enough. If your heli flies fine, chances are it won't make it fly any better.
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Old Dec 18, 2010, 11:04 AM
Did you check the FAQ already?
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Originally Posted by R Hudson View Post
I just got my Proto Max yesterday, had two successful flights, then the aileron servo stopped working. I was troubleshooting that when the elevator servo stopped working as well. Throttle consistently works but now I have no aileron or elevator control. On top of that I am in the three lines mode now and don't know how to exit that mode. It is stuck there and will not exit that mode. I am starting to suspect that my radio is bad. If I spin the servo gear by hand eventually it hits a point where I get resistance and the servo kicks back. If I unplug the battery and manually adjust the servos all the way down, when I power up again the servos kick all the way back up so the swashplate is tilted back all the way and it seems to be stuck here. Any ideas?

EDIT: Ok I watched the video on how to get the radio out of three lines mode and it is back to regular mode again. I still have throttle control but the elevator servo only moves a very small amount (maybe 1-2 mm) and the aileron servo doesn't move at all. BOTH servos snap up to the top position once the receiver recognizes the radio. Since these servos do operate at that time is it possible that my radio is bad or has "rest" itself to some strange settings?

Sorry, a lot of questions right away and I've been troubleshooting a lot here.
You could try this if you don't intend to claim guarantee. Move the servo gear down on the axle so the motor can't drive the servo. Now center both servos by hand. Switch on TX and heli, and enter subtrim mode. Since the servos want to move up, keep pressing down trim on one of the servos and see if the servo motor stops rotating at a certain point. This is to verify that somehow servo center position has been shifted to beyond the mechanical limit.

Alternatively you could try switching the TX to mode 1. You might have to rebind the heli to the TX. Now, if the sticks were faulty, since the TX is held "upside down" in mode 1, the servos should snap down to the lowest position, instead of going up. If they do that, it's your TX. If they still move to full up when you switch the TX on, it is the receiver board.

Seems like a lot of Proto Maxes have this issue. Do you run the battery down all the way to LVC? Perhaps that messes with the servo endpoints?
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Old Dec 19, 2010, 02:31 AM
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All the spares that I ordered from HK came in today... Now I'll be able to just swap out the main shaft and repair the broken one at my leisure.

For some odd reason the 150mAh lipos do not have tape on the connector end of the battery. What kind of tape is suggested to mimic the stuff that came on the batteries with the heli? I think scotch tape will just ripoff after a few tugs.
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Old Dec 19, 2010, 02:42 AM
Did you check the FAQ already?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wayno-san View Post
All the spares that I ordered from HK came in today... Now I'll be able to just swap out the main shaft and repair the broken one at my leisure.

For some odd reason the 150mAh lipos do not have tape on the connector end of the battery. What kind of tape is suggested to mimic the stuff that came on the batteries with the heli? I think scotch tape will just ripoff after a few tugs.
The 150s are meant for the Bravo SX and other craft that have the battery inserted connector side first. So there is no need for the tape on the other side. You might try to take of the tape carefully, and then re-apply at the other end.
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