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Old Jan 14, 2011, 04:51 PM
Did you check the FAQ already?
SoloProFan's Avatar
The Netherlands
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Originally Posted by jtravel View Post
Try your TX to eliminate that and make sure he is not making a mistake when he tries to bind.
If that does not fix it
Make sure the 5 in 1 board is getting power from the battery.
Does the blue light on the board come on when the battery is inserted?
The 5 in 1 board may have been damaged in the crash.
Solo will be around to give you more help soon I'm sure.
You got it covered really well. Only thing I would add, is if the blue led comes on, remove battery, disconnect motors and try binding again. Apart from that, it is possible the 5 in 1 got busted.

And the Revell Proto Max is indeed the same heli as the Solo Pro. Battery is different, but I doubt you can fly longer on the 130 mAh Revell battery, than on the Hobby King 120 OEM battery...
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Old Jan 15, 2011, 09:12 AM
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Originally Posted by SoloPro View Post
Introduction:


Q: Can I replace the sticks on the TX to get more control?


A: Not directly, the sticks are not seperate parts that can be unscrewed or so. But you can still make them longer to have more control. You can use bamboo skewers, sanded to fit the hollow sticks, to get more "feel" on the controls.
I don't know if they changed the design but mine just twist out (not threaded, twisting just helps loosen them). See the attached photo.

Need to find some suitable longer sticks from a proper TX now!
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Old Jan 15, 2011, 10:39 AM
Did you check the FAQ already?
SoloProFan's Avatar
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Originally Posted by cgcrute View Post
I don't know if they changed the design but mine just twist out (not threaded, twisting just helps loosen them). See the attached photo.

Need to find some suitable longer sticks from a proper TX now!
Nice to know these can come out, but it seems not like it was intended to be this way, since you can't unscrew them. Perhaps it is just press fit, so this can be done without risking damage to the inside parts. If more confirmed reports come in that this is safe to do, I will add it to the FAQ.


Also updated the section about what type of TX can be used to control the helis.
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Old Jan 15, 2011, 09:42 PM
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Read through this faq, but it doesn't seem to mention how to adjust the gyro once in subtrim mode. Or maybe I'm just missing it. Can't seem to find it anywhere.

Edit: Nevermind, figured it out. It's the throttle trim.
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Old Jan 16, 2011, 02:31 AM
Did you check the FAQ already?
SoloProFan's Avatar
The Netherlands
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Originally Posted by Linker33 View Post
Read through this faq, but it doesn't seem to mention how to adjust the gyro once in subtrim mode. Or maybe I'm just missing it. Can't seem to find it anywhere.

Edit: Nevermind, figured it out. It's the throttle trim.
The gyro adjust was listed under EPA header, but since it is accessible from subtrim mode, I've moved it there, and clarified things a little more, also adding the video Serum posted to show the effect of reduced gyro to piro rate.
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Old Jan 16, 2011, 03:03 AM
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Originally Posted by SoloPro View Post
Perhaps it is just press fit, so this can be done without risking damage to the inside parts.
It is just a press fit, hopefully someone else will confirm this - and more importantly find a decent, longer alternative!
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Old Jan 16, 2011, 02:24 PM
Did you check the FAQ already?
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Originally Posted by newborn View Post
help I flew into a puddle! Now the servo moves with a high pitched squeak and slowly???
Any water damage tips?
General water damage tips, valid for all electronics, are basically, wipe of excessive moisture, and let it dry for a longer period. If you have demi water, the type that is used to fill car batteries with, it might help to rinse it with that, since demi water doesn't conduct electricity.
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Old Jan 16, 2011, 03:00 PM
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Originally Posted by SoloPro View Post
General water damage tips, valid for all electronics, are basically, wipe of excessive moisture, and let it dry for a longer period. If you have demi water, the type that is used to fill car batteries with, it might help to rinse it with that, since demi water doesn't conduct electricity.
Hi Solo, not interfering, but, just to clarify Demi water = Demineralised water = Distilled water.
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Old Jan 16, 2011, 03:06 PM
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Originally Posted by PaulB View Post
Hi Solo, not interfering, but, just to clarify Demi water = Demineralised water = Distilled water.
Thanks for the addition.


Added some explanation about the antenna wires, and the different head types.
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Old Jan 18, 2011, 01:22 PM
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Glastonbury, CT
Joined Nov 2004
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Originally Posted by Yomek View Post
Has anyone tried the Turnigy nano-tech 160mAh battery in the Solo Pro? Does it fit in the Solo Pro battery skid?
I'm using them. You need to fit your own connector to the skids, there's a picture that Solo posted of the modification that you need to make, and you need to put the battery in backwards in the skid, with the battery connector facing to the rear of the heli. Works fine, no difference in flying qualities from the stock batteries.
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Old Jan 19, 2011, 02:51 AM
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Israel
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Hi, I have a short story to share with you. OK, it is quite long, but it's worth reading.

This is my first post here, I hope It will be helpful.

I am quite new with RC Helicopters, and my first real helicopter is the Nine Eagles Solo Pro (before that, I had some 3ch and 4ch Toy Helicopters). I read a lot of reviews before I decided to buy this one, and I am happy with it – I can fly it indoors and parts are quite cheap (except for one, the 5in1 Receiver board).

I am now learning to fly and my apartment is quite small, so I have a lot of crashes. From this forum and from others I learned to pull the throttle down before a crash in order to prevent damage to my RX board. It didn't take a lot of time and my efforts were useless – my RX board was smoking. I burned the electric component that drives my tail motor.



I have some experience with electrical circuits, and thought that I can fix it – I just need to identify the part and find a replacement. After a lot of google searches I found that this component (marked as N801, N802 or N8Z1 in some RX boards, and N81P on mine) is an N-Channel Mosfet Transistor (SOT-23 package). A guy named jeffs555 recommended to replace it with DMG3420U component. I found this part in less than 1$ in Mouser.com or Newark.com, but the shipping was 40$. I asked my friend for help (which is an electrical components engineer), but he had no time for it.

I was a one button push away from ordering a new board from HobbyKing (22$ + Shipping), but it didn't feel right – spending about 28$ just because a lousy transistor burned. I decided to try and fix it anyway – I had nothing to lose, my RX wasn't working anyway.

I started to look for a replacement from my broken Toy Helicopters, and after few (/a lot of) attempts with my old, barely working butane solder, I found the one that fits and works. But it didn't work for a long time. I checked the tail motor with a direct 3.7V connection to it, and I saw that it is not working properly. Then I remembered that the RX was burned not much after my tail took apart from the main frame. I separated the tail motor wires from each other, and like a magic it was working good – it created a short circuit while the wires were touching each other. This is probably what caused the damage to my RX at the beginning of this long story.



Bottom line is that my Solo Pro Receiver Board is fixed and working good – my bird is flying again. It took a lot of efforts and I don't know for how long it will last, but it made me happy. I am sure that people with more soldering skills than mine can have a long lasting fix.

Some tips for this fix – all were experienced in my fix process:
- Check the motor (main or tail) independently from the fix using a direct connection to a 3.7v battery – My tail motor wires shortened and caused the RX damage in the first place.
- Find a transistor that drives a similar motor size - Try to check for an "N" marking on it, or even try to search for its specs to see if it is an N-Channel Transistor.
- Use a good soldering iron with a very thin solder tip – I didn't have one, so I almost totally killed my board.
- Use a good magnifying glass when soldering – I didn't have one, so I was almost soldering blind.
- Disconnect the main gear, main shaft, rotor head and skids before soldering – I melted one flybar.
- Use extension wires to connect the transistor – this is the only way I succeeded to connect it, and like that it is easier to replace it once again.
- Avoid from over-heating the PCB - the servo case can be distorted and get stucked, and other components can take apart.
- Try to find a friend with experience in soldering very small components – to avoid further damage to the board.
- Hot glue the soldered connections after checking that the fix works (wires to board and wires to transistor) – it took apart quite easy when not gluing it.

I hope that my description will help you fix these non-modular RX boards, and save you some money.

Last thing, I want to thank everyone who wrote in this and other forums – especially thanks to SoloPro (the father of this forum), I learned a lot from your posts in this and other forums.
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Old Jan 19, 2011, 06:17 PM
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United States, CA, Fountain Valley
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Originally Posted by asanado View Post
Hi bizzy511,

I know that you got a new receiver and already flying with it, but maybe you can try one more thing to fix the old RX stuck servo (if it will work, you will have a spare one).

I had the same problem you were talking about, that one servo is not moving freely and because of that is not responding to controls.

I did a simple thing in order to fix it - I pulled the large gear of the bad servo a little bit out of its axle (about 1mm). This way the gear was still in a good position to be driven by its motor small gear (pinion).

After that, the gear was turning freely and the servo worked fine.
i saw smoke come from the board, so i think the board is bad.
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Old Jan 19, 2011, 06:22 PM
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United States, CA, Fountain Valley
Joined Jan 2011
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my landing gear broke, but this time, the little tab (on the landing gear) that goes into the main body snapped off. is there anyway to get this little tab out? or do i have to by a new body and take everything apart and put it back together?

im having nothing but bad luck with this little helicopter.
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Old Jan 20, 2011, 03:39 AM
Did you check the FAQ already?
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Originally Posted by bizzy511 View Post
ok now im having another problem. when i make a left turn, it seems to get stuck doing left turns. doesnt happen when i do right turns. any suggestions?
What gets stuck?

Is this the board that you saw smoke coming from? This answer is then appropriate:

Quote:
Originally Posted by rmgmag View Post
Yep, whenever you let the smoke out of these electronic devices, the just don't seem to work right anymore.
I'd say it's totaled, unless you are familiar with repairing SMD component equipped circuitry. There is a guide in this thread covering repairing the board, about a page back.


Quote:
Originally Posted by newborn View Post
thanks, hope time helps this...
And, did your receiver dry out well enough and is working again?


Edit: Added how to remove a broken landing gear peg from the frame.
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Old Jan 20, 2011, 06:35 AM
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Sarasota, FL
Joined May 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SoloPro View Post
General water damage tips, valid for all electronics, are basically, wipe of excessive moisture, and let it dry for a longer period. If you have demi water, the type that is used to fill car batteries with, it might help to rinse it with that, since demi water doesn't conduct electricity.
Some people swear by a product called Corrosion X.
made by CT or Corrosion Technologies. Even people on this board claimed to have saved their RX's with this product. Going as far as dipping the RX boards in a jar of the stuff, letting it drip dry. You would have clean the servo threads because this stuff will collect dust and dirt...
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