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Old Feb 14, 2013, 10:36 PM
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Australia, VIC, Melbourne
Joined Nov 2006
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Well that WAS FAST !!!
Though runs were done out of STEEP dives.
Still.... it got to the speed, so I consider that the end result - no matter dive or not.
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Old Feb 14, 2013, 11:33 PM
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Denver, CO
Joined Nov 2007
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--Yes, the setup needed a dive to get that fast, but cool to watch

--I think the flat and level speed was around 170's mph
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Old Feb 14, 2013, 11:47 PM
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spyda00's Avatar
Australia
Joined Jun 2009
1,045 Posts
that was very very fast!
i just ordered one of these great looking jets today
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Old Feb 17, 2013, 01:40 PM
Progress with the process...
M3ATpl0w's Avatar
NE Alabama
Joined Feb 2011
135 Posts
Hey guys. Picked up one of these kits for $30 back around Christmas (what a deal), and getting ready to build. Can any of you tell me at what point/weight does she begin to feel heavy, not fun to fly? I know this is a subjective topic, but just wanted to hear a few opinions on the subject. I have multiple set ups available, from mild to wild, but dont want to weigh her down so much that shes not fun to fly. TIA for any input.
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Old Feb 17, 2013, 05:41 PM
efflux RC's Avatar
United States, CA, Santa Clarita
Joined Aug 2009
8,416 Posts
A very popular setup for this jet (for 4 years now) has been the HET 6904 EDF with the HET 2W-20 motor on 4s. 2500-3200mAh Lipos.
You need a 60A ESC min.

This litewieght setup still launches and flies "light". Yet it will do about 120 mph.

All you really need to do it is the Taileron reinforcing, which you can find by doing a search in this thread.
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Old Feb 17, 2013, 11:48 PM
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United States, NY, New York
Joined Aug 2005
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At what speed do you guys think it is better to glass the F16? Thanks.

Happyflying
jc
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Old Feb 18, 2013, 12:24 AM
Extreme CNC Alloy EDF
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Australia
Joined Mar 2006
11,455 Posts
Its not just the speed its the longevity, its such a small simple model to glass that if you are intending to run 750w upwards I would do it regardless as it will last a long time.

You dont need to glass it all, if the wings and tails have the tough plastic film on them leave it, the stuff is good for 140mph at least, carbon rods in the wings and glass the fuse, duct, rudder, canopy frame, thats it.
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Old Feb 18, 2013, 01:16 AM
It should fly at least once
clive45's Avatar
Australia, NSW, Grenfell
Joined Mar 2006
2,558 Posts
Its best to do it when its standing still on the ground
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Old Feb 18, 2013, 01:16 AM
Hey Ya'll!! Watch THIS!!
Michael Paxton's Avatar
Nashville TN.
Joined Mar 2006
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^^^ Nice! LOL
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Old Feb 18, 2013, 08:24 AM
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Garden Grove, CA
Joined Feb 2011
254 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by efflux RC View Post
A very popular setup for this jet (for 4 years now) has been the HET 6904 EDF with the HET 2W-20 motor on 4s. 2500-3200mAh Lipos.
You need a 60A ESC min.

This litewieght setup still launches and flies "light". Yet it will do about 120 mph.

All you really need to do it is the Taileron reinforcing, which you can find by doing a search in this thread.
I did the wood doublers on the tail and wished i would have went with carbon fiber sticks instead. The wood + epoxy comes in heavy IMO. I do have carbon sticks for the battery area.

yep run the above fan motor combo and have no complaints.

I did no glassing. Just WBP

i did not get to test fly her this weekend because the wind kicked up. But am starting to worry that my main gear may be an inch or so too far aft from the CG. With the battery installed there is a lot of weight to rotate up front. I hope i do not end up with a plane that wont leave the ground. i guess plan b would be to lift the nose up higher.
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Old Feb 18, 2013, 03:28 PM
Extreme CNC Alloy EDF
Extreme_RC's Avatar
Australia
Joined Mar 2006
11,455 Posts
If done right the Taileron mod kit adds very little weight to the model and gives the rear end a boxed in very stiff set of booms you can lift the model up with. 1mm ply is all you need, and a thin film of epoxy, outer side panels on first, then brass sleeve and inner panel, 5 min epoxy is a must with alchohol wiping up all the excess as you hold the parts in place. Then the long flat bottom panel goes on once the inner and outer are sanded square to the foam. End result is as below, the original mod kit.

Where are you placing your CG? The range is commonly 170-190 from the TE of the wing at the root, 175 is as far back as I go as it gets a little pitch sensitive otherwise.
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Old Feb 18, 2013, 03:42 PM
Hey Ya'll!! Watch THIS!!
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Nashville TN.
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Trailing Edge?
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Old Feb 18, 2013, 04:07 PM
Extreme CNC Alloy EDF
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Australia
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Yup has always been easier to measure from the TE of the wing with this model.
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Old Feb 18, 2013, 05:33 PM
Hey Ya'll!! Watch THIS!!
Michael Paxton's Avatar
Nashville TN.
Joined Mar 2006
2,555 Posts
OK. Your wording:
"Where are you placing your CG? The range is commonly 170-190 from the TE of the wing at the root, 175 is as far back as I go as it gets a little pitch sensitive otherwise."

Sounds like 170-190 BACK from the trailing edge! Or...Maybe I'm just tired.
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Old Feb 18, 2013, 05:48 PM
Extreme CNC Alloy EDF
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Australia
Joined Mar 2006
11,455 Posts
Its clear as mud and you are tired, go to bed spotty LOL.
Range is 170-190 forward of the trailing edge. 175mm is as far back as I go with my F16's CG, P3 listed the range as 160-180 from memory, and 160mm is way too far back for CG, the thing is crazy sensitive.
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