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Old Nov 23, 2010, 09:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jonnyspeed View Post
Looking good Herb. Did you scuff up the case of the servos before you siliconed them in?
I just cleaned them thoroughly with rubbing alcohol. The GE silicone adheres very well ... most likely a piece of the elevator will come out with it

Silicone needs to cure at least 48hrs btw.
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Old Nov 23, 2010, 09:24 PM
Gilbert, AZ
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Gilbert, AZ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Herb View Post
I just cleaned them thoroughly with rubbing alcohol. The GE silicone adheres very well ... most likely a piece of the elevator will come out with it

Silicone needs to cure at least 48hrs btw.
Hey.... happy 10K posts!
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Old Nov 23, 2010, 10:54 PM
speedin n da weeds :)
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USA, AZ, Glendale
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info on fan and motors/tested link:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1187776
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Old Nov 23, 2010, 11:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rvincent View Post
Just for Wayne
Thanks Bob! They look good.

Chad, gonna have to look at those when you get them.

Herb, those are the only two kv's, in that range, they show on EJF's site. I hope to get mine tomorrow.
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Old Nov 24, 2010, 09:35 AM
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North Royalton, Ohio
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Herb View Post
I just cleaned them thoroughly with rubbing alcohol. The GE silicone adheres very well ... most likely a piece of the elevator will come out with it

Silicone needs to cure at least 48hrs btw.
Would you recommend Silicone over the TAM ez servo mounts? Would they even fit? Thanks Herb. I just got the plane yesterday and this build thread is an invaluable learning tool for me as this is my first bigger edf.
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Old Nov 24, 2010, 10:58 AM
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United States, CA, San Diego
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Herb View Post
I just cleaned them thoroughly with rubbing alcohol. The GE silicone adheres very well ... most likely a piece of the elevator will come out with it

Silicone needs to cure at least 48hrs btw.
I use Automotive Goop. I mark where the servo is going to be placed then place a thin layer at the four corners of the servo face and repeat on the servo itself. After about 3-5 min I press the servo in place and its there for good. If the servo body is going to see alot of shear stress, then I Goop the whole face.

I usually clamp in place and let dry overnight if I'm not in a hurry. But unless your going to do ALOT of handling or prying in the area I don't worry about it. The Automotive version is almost a contact cement. Once in place your good. After a couple hrs you can handle normally.

I've also wrapped the servo in that thin clear packing tape, then Goop'ed into place. That way its much easier to reuse the servo. Just pull the tape, clean with acetone, reuse.

Goop sticks to anything, even polypropylene. Amazing stuff.

Mike
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Old Nov 24, 2010, 11:18 AM
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You get it at auto parts stores?
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Old Nov 24, 2010, 01:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jonnyspeed View Post
Would you recommend Silicone over the TAM ez servo mounts? Would they even fit? Thanks Herb. ...
Not familiar with those ... no idea if they would fit, but the space in there is pretty tight. Servo mounts are useful if you think you might just have a few flights with it and then take the servos out ...

GE Silicone II glue is very strong, provides a shock resistant mount, and later can just be peeled off if needed, $4 at ace hardware.

In the Rafale it holds well after six years, even longer in some other edfs ...

.
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Old Nov 24, 2010, 01:39 PM
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The fit of the ducts is pretty good ... I used first 30-min epoxy mixed with microballons to glue in the intakes.

These need to be clamped in place with some plastic clips or similar till the epoxy dries.

I then closed all the gaps with a very thick mixture of microbaloons & more 30 min epoxy. Then later a touch of filler. The final result seems pretty good.

The two ducts were joined together at the back (towards the motor) with a thin bead of GE silicone.

The two ducts could alternatively be glued at the intakes with silicone, that way they would be removable (by pulling hard).

.
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Old Nov 24, 2010, 01:46 PM
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The pull-pull steering for the Springair 602 retracts is done.

There is some fine adjustment involved to get the proper tension in the steel wire, not too tight and not too loose.

The plastic zip tie is secured with shrink wrap tubing and silicone, it acts as a simple tensioner and gets the pull-pull wires
out of the way when the wheels retracts. Rubber bands can be used too, but those need to be replaced every year.

The gear operates reliably, the steering works, and the wheel retracts fully into the fuse.

All these little items need to be checked properly so there's no surprise later at the field

I loctite all the various set screws at this point, so nothing falls out later in the air ...

The last picture shows the pull-pull wires supplied with the kit - they probably work fine, I just did not use them.

.

.
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Last edited by Herb; Nov 24, 2010 at 07:13 PM.
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Old Nov 24, 2010, 01:53 PM
1.21 Gigawatts!
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I learn something new from Herb's thread everyday. Thanks for the great photos!
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Old Nov 24, 2010, 02:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rvincent View Post
You get it at auto parts stores?
Yes... I get it at Kragens. Herb mentions shock asorbtion when using silicon. This is another reason I like the Goop. It dries semi-hard. Sort of like a very hard rubber. On electrics I don't worry about vibrations so much but I really like that it doesn't dry brittle like most epoxys/CAs. I really like it for gluing parts to fiberglass fuses. It sticks very well and doesn't cause a hard spot. If the fiberglass flexes it doesn't break the joint or crack the fiberglass.

I also like it for strain relief in wire bundles out of a connector that is subject to repeated on/off cycles. It allows the wires to move a little without causing a hard spot, yet doesn't peel away from the wires like hot glue or silicon eventually do.

Mike
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Old Nov 24, 2010, 02:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Herb View Post
The fit of the ducts is pretty good ... I used first 30-min epoxy mixed with microballons to glue in the intakes.

These need to be clamped in place with some plastic clips or similar till the epoxy dries.

I then closed all the gaps with a very thick mixture of microbaloons & more 30 min epoxy. Then later a touch of filler. The final result seems pretty good.

The two ducts were joined together at the back (towards the motor) with a thin bead of GE silicone.

The two ducts could alternatively be glued at the intakes with silicone, that way they would be removable (by pulling hard).

.
When did/do you glue the outer intakes to the fuse?

When you talk about filling the gaps with epoxy/microballons, does that mean the lip area where the inner ducting meets the outer intakes? Do you just fill and shape the epoxy or are you gonna sand/shape a smooth transition? Does it really matter?

Thanks,
Mike
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Old Nov 24, 2010, 03:33 PM
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Where did you guys get the pull pull cable-Red backing with blue tape on it??
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Old Nov 24, 2010, 05:02 PM
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I first glued the intakes with epoxy, then added the filler to fill the gap. I glued the intakes at the same time as I glued the outer intake covers - to ensure a good fit. If you have the ducts in front of you, you will understand better what I mean ?

Polyurethane glue (gorilla glue) also has very good gap filling properties and is very light. There are I suppose a few different ways to glue ducts in.

Steph, did you get your replacement yet? CMP / NP really needs to improve on the packing ... it's absurd ... it would only require some more wrappping in chinese newspapers The box needs to be completely filled with bubble wrap or newspaper packing. Very simple to do, and at no additional cost! It's a shame Such a nice kit ruined because of such a triviality.

Quote:
Originally Posted by sikky View Post
Where did you guys get the pull pull cable-Red backing with blue tape on it??
The nylon coated steel wire in the background (red backing with blue tape) is of some unknown european origin ... that one is of the right size and strength.

The one in the foreground is also nylon coated braided steel wire from Michael's ... for bead stringing. That particular one is a bit too thin (.018'') and it broke once, it needs to be a bit stronger.

I believe there is also some wire included in the kit ... the important thing is that it should NOT sag. I use nylon coated braided steel wire exclusively.

Incidentally, the steering servo is an HS-81 MG. Metal gears are important, no plastic gears for me. The nosegear steering has to be sturdy. They really take a beating in the long run.

.
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Last edited by Herb; Nov 24, 2010 at 05:15 PM.
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