Nice work Herb!

Hysol is a VERY good epoxy.

Originally Posted by Kevin Cox

Nice work Herb!

Hysol is a VERY good epoxy.

The kind you don't find at the local hobby shop ???

Guys, if this is not the place or time, just correct me, but..........

what makes that Dyn-E-Max sound so TURBO-like?????? Is it more
blades, less blades, little blades, big blades, straight blades, really
curved blades, WHAT IS IT??????? It's making me crazier than I
normally am!

I don't think Herb will mind one or two posts about it but..... Yes it is the number of blades. Same with the Stumax fans

Can someone tell me what "k" carbon tow is best to order from CST for strengthening the ducts as Herb and Marvin did?

I have no experience with the stuff!

Thx,

Chad

It looks like Herb used the 12k.

http://www.cstsales.com/

Qty Name Item # Each Subtotal
------------------------------------------------------------------------
1 12k Carbon Fiber Tow, 25 ft. pkg. CF706 $4.95 $4.95
1 Unidirectional Carbon Fiber0.005" thick, 3.7 oz./sq. yd.1" Wide, Webbed Binder4 ft. pkg. CF373 $3.95 $3.95
1 Carbon Fiber Bias Woven Tapes1" Wide, 1-9 Ft.CFTB211 $1.90 $1.90
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Subtotal $10.80
Tax Total $0.89
Grand Total $11.69


Payment type: Visa

I've been waiting to order to see what you are going to do with the other carbon?

Actually not much for now ... I felt silly ordering just $4 worth of stuff, so I added a few items I thought I could use in the near future.

Yesterday I glued in the elevators ... really no issues there either, everything fits nicely.

I would not ever use double sided tape for securing servos though

I used 30-min epoxy mixed with microballons (ca. 1:1 by vol), the microballons help getting better glue joints
since the foamy thicker slurry kinda fills all the gaps nicely. Nowadays I rarely use epoxy just by itself.
.

The rudder is next ... the hole in the rudder does not match the correct location, the 3.5 cms mentioned in the instructions.

If you use the pre-drilled hole, the actuator arm ends up almost touching the duct inside ... not good.

After drilling a new hole higher up in the rudder, I glued the actuator in, with epoxy and microbaloons + tape over the whole assembly.

Now everything fits nicely after installing the CA hinges.

.

The rudder linkage from the inside, everything seems easy so far.

The setup sofar is quite tight and slop-free. I added a small wood block to limit possible future play in the rudder actuator rod.

If you try to put a z-bend in the supplied rods, they will break !

.

I noticed mine was too long as well (rudder linkage). I am going to copy your wood block idea too But I will go one step further and add a block to te backside too. I didn't like that much linkage exposed and no support. Just hadn't thought of a way to deal with it. Good stuff! Thanks Herb!!

Looking good Herb. Did you scuff up the case of the servos before you siliconed them in?

Hi I ordered and recived these 2 pilots

http://parkflyerplastics.com/cart/in...1ef12b3ec8f764

they fit perfect and only weight 5 grams each compared to 40
gram's from the CMP pilots , just need some painting ,

Question : to get a little more power would this be a good motor

Typhoon EDF-600-37 1600W motor for 90mm fans its for 5-6 cells
and 1600 watts , it the correct size and will bring the power
to what herb said, approx 1500 watts

thank you ,

Pied,

It's hard to say because we don't know exactly what fan you have. If it is the changesun fan, that motor you just posted to the link to still has too low of a kV. You need 1900kV if you're going to run 6S.

Looks like assembly for me will start after Thanksgiving. I'll get the Carbon Tow ordered tonight and hopefully it will be here early next week. The retracts should be here by then too.

I have the motor/fan, the ESC, the servos, the linkages, the ParkZone pilots, and the wires all in hand.