Espritmodel.com Telemetry Radio
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Old Feb 16, 2013, 06:42 AM
Team Mulikow 3D
Oxfordshire, UK
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Originally Posted by sp00fman View Post
I think your Receiver would feel pretty disconnected also without its antenna.
Youd be lucky to get any range at all. You really think the antenna is just for show?

Best thing to do is open up your receiver and solder on the part you cut off directly to the cirquit board.
Yeah - I meant to mention that, it's actually a specific length and shouldn't be changed
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Old Feb 16, 2013, 08:10 AM
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Originally Posted by MikeHRC View Post
tsakali,

As well as dropping the dead-bands, what expo do you have - too much expo can make your heli un-responsive, as can too little headspeed.

Good luck,
Mike
all three are set to D/R 100 expo 20
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Old Feb 16, 2013, 08:14 AM
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Originally Posted by sp00fman View Post
I think your Receiver would feel pretty disconnected also without its antenna.
Youd be lucky to get any range at all. You really think the antenna is just for show?

Best thing to do is open up your receiver and solder on the part you cut off directly to the cirquit board.
LOL I don't know what i was thinking when I cut that off. Really, I just rationalized from seeing other receivers with just small little stubs , that it would be ok to cut, sicne it looked oddly large in comparison to others.... can i just solder it back on to the end of the cut wire? getting into where my receiver is could be tricky.. I had to remove this 8 channel RX from its casing (came with the TH9X) wrapped it in electrical tape and squeeze it under the main gear space on a 45 degree angle...I was pretty nervous about doing that but I really didnt want anything on the outside of my frame
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Old Feb 16, 2013, 08:20 AM
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Originally Posted by tsakali View Post
LOL I don't know what i was thinking when I cut that off. Really, I just rationalized from seeing other receivers with just small little stubs , that it would be ok to cut, sicne it looked oddly large in comparison to others.... can i just solder it back on to the end of the cut wire? getting into where my receiver is could be tricky.. I had to remove this 8 channel RX from its casing (came with the TH9X) wrapped it in electrical tape and squeeze it under the main gear space on a 45 degree angle...I was pretty nervous about doing that but I really didnt want anything on the outside of my frame
No. It is not a simple wire. The part you cut off was the actual antenna, all that is left is the feeder wire which won't work by itself.

It is a coax cable with an inner conductor and outer metallic shield, separated by an insulator.

So there are two connections to be soldered. You will only be able to do that on the circuit board, and even then it will not be easy

Good news is that a new receiver is only ~$9
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Old Feb 16, 2013, 08:25 AM
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but if I remove the little stub remaining on my RX and solder the cut part on there, wouldn't the shorter cable now be an issue? I guess what you're saying is that I better solder the cut off piece directly on the board instead of soldering it at the end of the small piece of wire that is left?

And if I had to buy a new receiver, do I also need to replace the transmitter? don't those things go hand in hand? are you saying that I should replace it with the exact same RX model?
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Old Feb 16, 2013, 08:42 AM
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The length of the coax is not important, the length of the part at the end is.
So if you can get both the inner and outer conductor re-soldered to the board without any short circuit it will work.

A new receiver can be bound to your module, no problems there.
It won't work out of the box, but binding is quite simple.

Pat MacKenzie
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Old Feb 16, 2013, 08:42 AM
Mmmmmmm!
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Is that a Turnigy 9X stock receiver antenna? Without it your range will be very bad. And if you lose the signal the heli could become unresponsive and fly away. The stock receiver does not have failsafe so it'll hold the last received value before it lost the signal. DO NOT FLY without the antenna! Re-attach it somehow. You'll probably have to open up the receiver and solder the antenna to the board. (You can usually find two spots on the board, one for the inner core of the coax cable and one the outer shield goes to)
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Old Feb 16, 2013, 08:51 AM
just gotta mess with it!
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Originally Posted by tsakali View Post
Do the pitch pumps have to be in flight, or can i just do it on the ground or in a low hover? It's going to be difficult to tune that in if I have to go to a field as I don't have a portable programmer. Great info btw, I'm looking forward to having a much better session tomorrow
Best to fine-tune it in the field, in flight - but you could start off with a nominal value, 5 - 10 or so for collective pre-comp - the main thing being that you check the sense of the tail slider movement before you fly. The slider needs to move towards the tail boom with any movement of the collective or cyclic sticks away from neutral. I just set my cyclic pre-comp to 50% of the collective value - I'm not a good enough flyer to actually figure out the optimum setting.
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Old Feb 16, 2013, 08:51 AM
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k thank you!
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Old Feb 16, 2013, 10:26 AM
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k so I got to properly connect the antenna back on the board... I see what you meant by challenging , but I was able to do it! it seems to be working but i will do some long range checks when I'm at the field!
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Old Feb 16, 2013, 10:45 AM
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You will have to do a full range check.
The "Range test" button on the module only works to enter bind mode.
It does not reduce the output at all
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Old Feb 16, 2013, 05:13 PM
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Originally Posted by tsakali View Post
k so I got to properly connect the antenna back on the board... I see what you meant by challenging , but I was able to do it! it seems to be working but i will do some long range checks when I'm at the field!
Good job!

You just earned you Kong-Fu black soldering batch!



I see a few relplies that might not be 100% accurate. The Rx wont necessarily keep giving the same output signal without failsafe option. The Turnigy Rx just stops its PWM output when signal is lost, making servos go limp and the ESC shut down power.

Soldering two coax cables together wont always make it work as well as it did if you dont fully recover the outer shielding. We are talking high frequency's here and a lot of signal strength could bleed out of the bad solder joint. These cables dont really act like conductors, more like a long string of small capacitors.
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Old Feb 16, 2013, 05:24 PM
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k so I got to properly connect the antenna back on the board... I see what you meant by challenging , but I was able to do it! it seems to be working but i will do some long range checks when I'm at the field!
Be careful reconnecting and using a Turnigy rx with the antenna pulled out. First off, the ant is a co-axial shielded cable. The inner core wire that is insulated must not make contact with the shielded outer part. I have had this happen twice due to a bad crash (one in a delta wing plank and second in my heli) and both my attempts were not successful. I ended up with bad glitches from as close as 40 feet away. Considering how cheap the rx's are, I just buy new ones....
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Old Feb 16, 2013, 05:28 PM
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Originally Posted by sp00fman View Post
Good job!

You just earned you Kong-Fu black soldering batch!



I see a few relplies that might not be 100% accurate. The Rx wont necessarily keep giving the same output signal without failsafe option. The Turnigy Rx just stops its PWM output when signal is lost, making servos go limp and the ESC shut down power.

Soldering two coax cables together wont always make it work as well as it did if you dont fully recover the outer shielding. We are talking high frequency's here and a lot of signal strength could bleed out of the bad solder joint. These cables dont really act like conductors, more like a long string of small capacitors.
You are correct on this. I have crashed once because of a bad solder job on the HK/Turnigy rx ant lead. I had alot of random glitches that caused the ESC to momentarily go to 0% and the servos locked out/ no control momentarily. Lets just say the rx was quickly disposed off..
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Old Feb 16, 2013, 05:33 PM
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Originally Posted by sp00fman View Post
Soldering two coax cables together wont always make it work as well as it did if you dont fully recover the outer shielding. We are talking high frequency's here and a lot of signal strength could bleed out of the bad solder joint. These cables dont really act like conductors, more like a long string of small capacitors.
FWIW, I never told him to solder the cable back together for just that reason.
I told him to re-solder it to the board.

(It is more like a long string of capacitors and inductors. The actual signal travels in the insulator, the wires merely servo to guide it along the way. )
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