Originally Posted by VelocityRC

My Tarot swash plate is actually threaded not peened. The shash in the video appeared to be Tarot. The plactic cup may be missing however with that much slop.The marks that look like peening are notches for a spanner wrench. I use expanding e-clip pliers to get into the grooves and turn it. This will tighten it up just don't over do it. Tarot also makes a tool for this.



Bill S.

Originally Posted by tsakali

k for the curious, here are the best images I could take of the swashplate with my phone. It seems that it is all the way set, then again, I'm not really sure what I should be looking for

That is just like my Tarot swash. Both plastic ball seats appear to be in yours. Use snap ring pliers that will expand into those indentatons on the bottom silver piece and turn it clockwise to tighten. There is probably thread lock on the threads so mount the upper swash in a vise by the balls, not too tight so you dont warp it, heat it with a heat gun and see if it will tighten up. If you don't have these tools then a replacment swash might be cheaper.



Bill S.

Hi Velocity, I actually have a mini vise, so all I would need is the snap ring pliers. and if this is something that can happen over time and easily remedied by tightening it, it might just be better in the long run.

UPDATE: Also Border Lord, I tried what you suggested reset the screws, added some more grease in the bearing, and now the gears have only 20% of the original wobble! It's almost perfect now, the difference is embarrassing really :P. Not sure if it was just setting the hub right, or if it was that i could have over tightened the bold screw too tight in the first place, but taking it all apart and putting it back together def. helped!


I guess this is a question for ridge_racer if he's not bored with me yet :P , I also have a 121T slanted main gear and a slanted 12T motor gear. I'd like to use them as it will supposedly allow the motor to run more efficiently. I used a HS calculator to figure out the resulting RPM, but the values I'm getting seem wrong...how should I translate your curve settings to this new gear setup?

I received and build up my Tarot Pro FBL head on my HK450SE V2. Its the $15 black (non-DFC) one that passed along here some weeks ago on sale. I'm impressed by the quality and how smooth it went together. Its says "Tarot limited edition nitro pro" on the headbutton. Was Tarot really attempting a 450 sized nitro heli?

Once assembled i measured it up. Its a bit wider than the stock hub, 0.5cm each side. I run the Thrust-bearinged tarot pro tailgrips+hub, Hobbyking 335mm CF blades, and i still have 2mm of space between the mainblades and the square pro tailblades left if the mains would flex down.


It SHOULD be enough right? I'll let you know how it goes

Originally Posted by tsakali

I guess this is a question for ridge_racer if he's not bored with me yet :P , I also have a 121T slanted main gear and a slanted 12T motor gear. I'd like to use them as it will supposedly allow the motor to run more efficiently. I used a HS calculator to figure out the resulting RPM, but the values I'm getting seem wrong...how should I translate your curve settings to this new gear setup?

I'm not ridge-racer, but physics is physics so here goes.

With your 3800kv motor on 3s, 12/121 gearing is way too fierce - it would be trying to get up to HS4000, far too high. I know they do 10t helical pinions, and maybe even a 9t. With 10t onto the 121t slant gear, I'd expect you to see HS3200 or so, quite high, but within safe limits. For learning to fly, I'd suggest HS2600 - 2800 as giving a good balance between responsiveness and flight duration. There's an almost cubic relationship between HS and power - so doubling the HS increases required power by eight times, so unless you are an out and out stick banger, go for a moderate HS.

The slant gears run a bit quieter, but they're not more efficient, since there's more sliding contact between the teeth. In fact I think you pay a small penalty in terms of flight duration for any given HS using the slant gears.

Hi SpOOfman

I am running an HK450V2 with a Pro head, and clearance between the main and tail blades is fine.
Could it be that the thrust bearing tail hub is wider, and/or bigger tail blades?
If you are unhappy about the clearance on yours, an Outrage G5 boom and belt are a drop in replacement, and will give you an extra 30mm of boom length.
Should take it well into the 'safe' category.
Worth a thought

Cheers

BL

No, I'm VERY happy with my size. maxxxx out on blade size, without the extend hassle

The thrustbearing tail is indeed wider. better tail hold for me

Originally Posted by 2Doggs

I'm not ridge-racer, but physics is physics so here goes.

With your 3800kv motor on 3s, 12/121 gearing is way too fierce - it would be trying to get up to HS4000, far too high. I know they do 10t helical pinions, and maybe even a 9t. With 10t onto the 121t slant gear, I'd expect you to see HS3200 or so, quite high, but within safe limits. For learning to fly, I'd suggest HS2600 - 2800 as giving a good balance between responsiveness and flight duration. There's an almost cubic relationship between HS and power - so doubling the HS increases required power by eight times, so unless you are an out and out stick banger, go for a moderate HS.

The slant gears run a bit quieter, but they're not more efficient, since there's more sliding contact between the teeth. In fact I think you pay a small penalty in terms of flight duration for any given HS using the slant gears.

ah, i see my mistake, less teeth on the main gear = faster HD's I guess I'll keep it around in case I ever start banging sticks lol. Guess I'll stay with this configuration, and get a 10T straight motor gear to go with my 150T main.

Does anyone know the sizes of the bearings in a turnigy h2218 motor?

Front bearing is 10x4x3.5, rear bearings are 8x4x3. (O.D. x I.D. x H)

Originally Posted by 2Doggs

Front bearing is 10x4x3.5, rear bearings are 8x4x3. (O.D. x I.D. x H)

Thanks 2doggs I have the 8x4x3 as they are the same as the blade grips but I can only find 10x4x4 or 10x4x3 which do you think would be best?

You might be able to get it to work with either one, and if you could find the right washer, maybe it would be easier with the 10x4x3. Otherwise it might just be a case of having the shaft fit just a bit shy of the end of the can if you use the 10x4x4, but I reckon that would be OK.

Originally Posted by tsakali

ah, i see my mistake, less teeth on the main gear = faster HD's I guess I'll keep it around in case I ever start banging sticks lol. Guess I'll stay with this configuration, and get a 10T straight motor gear to go with my 150T main.

I'd start with a 11t minumim or 12t with the 150. I crashed twice on my first two hover attempts as a noob due to a "wobbly, slow to respond feel" I upped the pinion from 11t to a 12t and instantly had a more stable bird with a 3500kv motor and a 100-95-90-95-100 throttle curve and 11-11 pitch. I've only flown it in idle up however. Not sure what you are running for a motor KV but I found a little more HS to be my friend. the stronger gyroscopic effect gave a much better feel for me IMHO. I run about 17% expo on aile and elev to numb things out around center stick some folks prefer more like 25-30%. FWIW I thought I should share that with you.

Happy Flying !!!

Bill S.

P.S. About 85-90 trouble free flights on my Tarot Pro FB 450. I've only replaced one see saw bearing that got sloppy. Finally confident enough to fly around others and the first time was with my new girlfriend. She had to ask, ever crash one of these ?? LOL Not sure if I dumb thumbed, probably did, but all the electrics still work and range test OK. The parts bill was not too bad, Tarot carbon blades, main shaft (feathering shaft is still straight replaced the bolts and checked the bearings though) main gear, main bearings, both front tail box gears, boom, TT, boom struts and landing skids and a minor chip on the canopy. It's all together again, blades tracked on a swivel stand I rigged up and ran wide open for 4 min and still in one piece with no vibes. I'm ready to hover test tomorrow and make any final trim adjustments.

Yeah, I can appreciate the pointy of stability. I'm not trying to slow it down, I just want the higher % setting on ESC that way it runs more efficiently, and in order to do that I think I need to lower the teeth so the faster spinning motor balances the head speed out to what it is now.

Oh FFS!

So I guess the postal service decided to play football with my package. The torque tube arrived severly bent.

Couldn't Hobbyking pick a harder material for these?! These are SO easy to bend! Time to order some Align parts from a local store then. *sigh* At least I can use the bearing to reduce the vibrations on the one I have in my HK450.

I always use align TT I swear I had a copterx 500 one I could bend with my jeti mind!