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Old Aug 10, 2012, 10:07 AM
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mhills51's Avatar
kansas city
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The align tt is much better than any clone I have found. I also think it thicker or at least better grade aluminum. I noticed on some of the clone 500 tt's they mill the tub to make it straight causing even thinner areas. I have even bent my boom on the 450 and found the tt still straight. For the 2 or 3 dollar difference I always get the align.
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Old Aug 10, 2012, 01:21 PM
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United States, OK, Yukon
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Originally Posted by mhills51 View Post
The align tt is much better than any clone I have found. I also think it thicker or at least better grade aluminum. I noticed on some of the clone 500 tt's they mill the tub to make it straight causing even thinner areas. I have even bent my boom on the 450 and found the tt still straight. For the 2 or 3 dollar difference I always get the align.

Good to know. Thanks, I guess I made the right choice, heck I might have subconsciously broke it just to get one....

I am kinda pissed the Align CF tail boom is to thick for the TT but Whatever. I guess its just plain black for me for now.
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Old Aug 10, 2012, 06:46 PM
Yes, I know it's upside down.
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Originally Posted by Atomic Skull View Post
Make sure to locktite the bearings on the headblock side of the grips. You need to do that to eliminate lateral play.
You mean to loctite the bearings in the grips? Interesting. I've never had grips that were as tight as I would like, but I'm a bit hesitant to loctite them in. How do you ever get them out again? Or do you simply not worry about that?

Hmm, just trying to remember, do new grips usually come with bearings installed? If so, I guess no need to ever get the old ones out to transfer them to new bearings.

Actually, why not loctite both of them in while we're at it? I'd love to have a totally slop free head.
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Old Aug 10, 2012, 07:02 PM
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Use green loctite with a toothpick and just let it wick in-between the arm and the bearing. To take it apart heat with a torch.
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Old Aug 10, 2012, 07:21 PM
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Originally Posted by mhills51 View Post
Use green loctite with a toothpick and just let it wick in-between the arm and the bearing. To take it apart heat with a torch.
The way I do it is put a drop of green on a paper plate and put the bearing on the sharp end of a pencil. Then I use the tip of a zip tie to apply it to the barrel of the bearing taking care not to get any too close to the ends. Then I just stick it into the grip and hold it in place with a toothpick while pulling the pencil out. sometimes there is a bead of green around the edge of the bearing, if this happens I press the grip into a dry microfiber cloth, then put some alcohol on a corner of the same cloth and wipe the end of the grip. If you want to speed up the curing put the grips in full sun on a windowsill and the heat will accelerate the process. In this way you can reassemble the head 2 hours later (sooner actually but I always wait longer) and then leave the whole thing overnight to set. Don't fly it without leaving it at least 12 hours for the green to cure.

A safer way to remove a locktited bearing than with a torch is to directly heat the bearing with a soldering iron and then push it out with a pencil or bearing removal tool. It's much easier to push a bearing out with something that fits into the center hole then by trying to push it out with a screwdriver by the edge.

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Originally Posted by Harrow View Post

Actually, why not loctite both of them in while we're at it? I'd love to have a totally slop free head.
Because then you really won't ever get them out. Especially with the RJX head which uses a pair of 4x8 bearings. It would be very difficult to get a purchase on them to remove them if both are glued in. The bearing next to the thrust bearing is a pretty tight fit anyway and doesn't really need locktite.


I've changed my tune about the ALZRC feathering shafts, at least when it comes to the RJX head. The tolerances are varied enough that some shafts work fine and others cause excessive drag in the grips. They didn't cause problems with my flybarred sport head so maybe the RJX head is just more sensitive to this.
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Last edited by Atomic Skull; Aug 10, 2012 at 07:30 PM.
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Old Aug 10, 2012, 07:53 PM
If it Works, You Better Fix It
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North Idaho
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Interesting, instead of heating the steel bearing with an iron I heat the aluminum with a heat gun which expands faster than steel. about 250'F will do it, use a temp gun. Won't the steel bearing expand slightly fighting your attempt to remove it from the colder, faster expanding alumnium? This is how I get bearings in and out of nitro engines with excellent sucess. I'm asking because I'm going to attempt to rebuild some tail and main grips on the Trex. Or is it just 6 of one half a dozen of another ??

Happy Flying Everyone !!!

Bill S.

P.S. I'd tell you all how my Tarot 450 Pro is flying and my skills are progressing but if I do.... Well you know. Let's leave it at that for now. Thanks for the help and your patience with my "Million Questions" over what now seems to be a trival adjustment. Like I said, I do have OCD LOL
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Old Aug 10, 2012, 08:11 PM
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That is why I just use the torch. It sitting right there I don't even have to move it. Just light it and run the part over it a couple of times until the loctite releases. Just got done doing it with my 450 main bearing holders.
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Old Aug 10, 2012, 09:00 PM
Yes, I know it's upside down.
Sydney, Australia
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Like I said, I do have OCD LOL
Don't worry, plenty of that going around here.
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Old Aug 10, 2012, 09:01 PM
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+1. I used heat gun to heat up aluminium parts, loosen loctite and popped bearing out.
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Old Aug 10, 2012, 09:11 PM
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Originally Posted by VelocityRC View Post
Interesting, instead of heating the steel bearing with an iron I heat the aluminum with a heat gun which expands faster than steel. about 250'F will do it, use a temp gun. Won't the steel bearing expand slightly fighting your attempt to remove it from the colder, faster expanding alumnium? This is how I get bearings in and out of nitro engines with excellent sucess. I'm asking because I'm going to attempt to rebuild some tail and main grips on the Trex. Or is it just 6 of one half a dozen of another ??
If it's a tight fitting bearing yes. But if it just slides out without locktite then a soldering iron will do fine. But if it's a tight fitting bearing you don't need locktite in a blade grip where there is no possibility of the outer race spinning in the hole.

Tarot single piece CNC tail is much lower vibes than the Align type design according to the Robird. Align style is 100-250 single piece is around 50 or less. Note that I have not locktited the bearings in the CNC tail yet either (though the tolerances are pretty tight)
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Old Aug 10, 2012, 09:27 PM
Yes, I know it's upside down.
Sydney, Australia
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How tight are you guys getting your blade grips. Mine really flap up and down like a bird. FBL helps a lot, but they could sure be a lot better. I was thinking of maybe trying to jam some aluminium foil in to hold them. Silly idea?
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Old Aug 11, 2012, 12:16 AM
If it Works, You Better Fix It
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North Idaho
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Originally Posted by Atomic Skull View Post
If it's a tight fitting bearing yes. But if it just slides out without locktite then a soldering iron will do fine. But if it's a tight fitting bearing you don't need locktite in a blade grip where there is no possibility of the outer race spinning in the hole.

Tarot single piece CNC tail is much lower vibes than the Align type design according to the Robird. Align style is 100-250 single piece is around 50 or less. Note that I have not locktited the bearings in the CNC tail yet either (though the tolerances are pretty tight)
Please explain 100-250 and 50 numbers you are referring to ??

Inquiring minds want to know.

Bill S.
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Old Aug 11, 2012, 11:58 AM
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Joined Apr 2011
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Originally Posted by Swat342 View Post
The EXI, Metal Digital Servos from Xheli, and Turnigy helidrive sk3 Comp Moter.

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=22399

http://www.xheli.com/exi-servo-d213f.html

Was playing around with it last night and pulled the torque tube out. Noticed it was bent so I am about to install an align tt and tt bearing. Maybe this will stop some vibs also. Can't wait to fly it.
Those are the servo's I'm using. I have flown about 30 packs on them, and they're holding up very well. I had a couple of minor crashes with no servo damage.
The motor looks like a good one. Let me know how it works out.
Thanks
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Old Aug 12, 2012, 01:07 AM
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Australia, VIC, Melbourne
Joined Aug 2010
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For the iphone pilots

http://itunes.apple.com/au/app/level...510249014?mt=8

Trex 450 Pro - Using iPhone as digital pitch gauge (0 min 29 sec)


can also be used with the fbl pitch gauge from HK.

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...martphone.html



I can't wait to try it out.
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Old Aug 12, 2012, 01:16 AM
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Originally Posted by VelocityRC View Post
Please explain 100-250 and 50 numbers you are referring to ??

Inquiring minds want to know.

Bill S.
I'm talking about the Robird's vibration log.


Finally took it out and threw it around the field and it's like a simulator heli. Flips are ridiculously easy for me now where before with the flybar they were risky at best.
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Last edited by Atomic Skull; Aug 12, 2012 at 01:21 AM.
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