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Old Aug 08, 2012, 05:42 PM
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Swat343 , looks really nice
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Old Aug 09, 2012, 02:55 PM
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South London United Kingdom
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Hi All

Quick word of warning.
Needed to shorten the tail pushrod on my HK450 Pro. I read somewhere that if you heat the metal end, it will soften the glue, so you can take the end off, shorten the rod, and then glue it back on.
Well, it works, rather too well.
Heating does soften the glue, but if the rod is not fully pushed into the connector, it also expands the pocket of air behind it.
Result is, when the glue finally lets go, the end fires off like a rocket.
Mine has, and disappeared somewhere in the flat, probably never to be seen again!
You have been warned!!!!!!!

BL
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Old Aug 09, 2012, 03:25 PM
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United States, CT, Trumbull
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Originally Posted by Border Lord View Post
Hi All

Quick word of warning.
Needed to shorten the tail pushrod on my HK450 Pro. I read somewhere that if you heat the metal end, it will soften the glue, so you can take the end off, shorten the rod, and then glue it back on.
Well, it works, rather too well.
Heating does soften the glue, but if the rod is not fully pushed into the connector, it also expands the pocket of air behind it.
Result is, when the glue finally lets go, the end fires off like a rocket.
Mine has, and disappeared somewhere in the flat, probably never to be seen again!
You have been warned!!!!!!!

BL
yep it will , i glue mine but i also use a drill bit to pin it in. i tried just gluing it but it acts like a hydraulic pump and pushes the rod back out .
if i drill a hole through it it lets the excess glue out and i also can put a small T pin through it , then cut both ends off .
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Old Aug 09, 2012, 04:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Swat342 View Post
Well I just finished my HK 450 pro FBL build last night. All I have to do is balance and install the blades and dial in the FBL unit. It was a fun build however I did noticed the difference in quality between the EXI and HK. The EXI carbon fiber is way cleaner than HK. I am excited about getting her in the air. I am kind of curious to see how she performs with the RX in her belly and not installed on the outside. Total cost was under $200.
Looks good.
What motor, and servo's are you using?
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Old Aug 09, 2012, 05:18 PM
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Hey guys! looks like you don't need thrust bearings, washers, screws, or heck even a feathering shaft with the new 450DFC unit. lol! it's all listed in the directions as Optional?
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Old Aug 09, 2012, 08:54 PM
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lol , i know . i used everything from my 450 pro head when i did the switch . mine has thrust bearings and trueblood green dampers ( i think trueblood makes the green ones ) . mine is really solid and dosent move up and down like the regular head did .
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Old Aug 09, 2012, 09:29 PM
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The new one comes with hard plastic dampers NO give. lol! I just ordered new thrust bearings and shaft. My last ones didn't make it!

Just waiting for my swash to show. Then I will green loctite the head onto the shaft. It wobbles. The newest optional one has the two extra screws at the bottom to clamp it on the shaft.
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Old Aug 09, 2012, 09:48 PM
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mine did the same thing , it was loose on the shaft to the head . i overtightened the bolt and snapped the original one . i have plenty of spare head bolts . i used red loctite on mine , it dosent move at all . i dont need a bolt anymore .
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Old Aug 10, 2012, 01:59 AM
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Originally Posted by mhills51 View Post
The new one comes with hard plastic dampers NO give. lol!
Why the LOL? This is the sane thing to do, since it will offload the DFC links to swash from some of that moment. (edit: torque?)
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Old Aug 10, 2012, 04:05 AM
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Originally Posted by mhills51 View Post
Just waiting for my swash to show. Then I will green loctite the head onto the shaft. It wobbles. The newest optional one has the two extra screws at the bottom to clamp it on the shaft.
That's one thing I love about the RJX head, it does not wobble on the shaft at all. The bolts that hold the swash followers onto the headblock also clamp the headblock onto the shaft so it can't move. For extra security I like to use 18mm screws and put a nut on the other side.
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Old Aug 10, 2012, 04:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Atomic Skull View Post
That's one thing I love about the RJX head, it does not wobble on the shaft at all. The bolts that hold the swash followers onto the headblock also clamp the headblock onto the shaft so it can't move. For extra security I like to use 18mm screws and put a nut on the other side.
Look like you are happy & have good time with rjx fbl head. I think hk did something and improved. Can u post me the link & parts mod for rjx fbl head. My son want to have another try on his old 450. Thank.
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Old Aug 10, 2012, 04:27 AM
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Look like you are happy & have good time with rjx fbl head. I think hk did something and improved. Can u post me the link & parts mod for rjx fbl head. My son want to have another try on his old 450. Thank.
Never mind. My son found your old post. Thanks.
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Old Aug 10, 2012, 04:29 AM
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Never mind. My son found your old post. Thanks.
Make sure to locktite the bearings on the headblock side of the grips. You need to do that to eliminate lateral play.
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Old Aug 10, 2012, 05:04 AM
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Make sure to locktite the bearings on the headblock side of the grips. You need to do that to eliminate lateral play.
Thank for tips.
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Old Aug 10, 2012, 09:40 AM
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Originally Posted by clearprop88 View Post
Looks good.
What motor, and servo's are you using?
The EXI, Metal Digital Servos from Xheli, and Turnigy helidrive sk3 Comp Moter.

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=22399

http://www.xheli.com/exi-servo-d213f.html

Was playing around with it last night and pulled the torque tube out. Noticed it was bent so I am about to install an align tt and tt bearing. Maybe this will stop some vibs also. Can't wait to fly it.
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