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Old Dec 20, 2010, 02:46 AM
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United Kingdom, England, Dorset
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Just noticed you said "no mention of spoilers on plan". The one I bought has beautifully neat spoilers. I could post photos and/or you could ask Pete where he got the design from. They do not add much weight (the weight of the servo, really, as they are balsa and activated by nylon fishing thread), and certainly enhance the model.
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Old Dec 20, 2010, 03:11 AM
Late for work again!
Gary Binnie's Avatar
Northampton, England
Joined May 2004
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Cheers, I could add them. I usually make sure that I can spin out of any thermals and enjoy the challenge of trying to spot land without them (but usually end up going for a long walk!!). Of the five 100" thermal jobs I have only two have spoilers.

I've got some Graupner 93 spoilers, they feel quite heavy though. My Centi-Phase uses the torque drive system for these but has balsa boxes and blades, might be the way to go if I fit some.

Afraid I'm not getting very far with the Vortex at the moment, another little project has come along (well, not so little as it's 4 metre span!!).

I need to pop out to the shed but I dare not open the back door as it is -10C!!!

Brrrrr!

Gary
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Old Dec 20, 2010, 04:09 AM
EUROPHIA PETE
Pete Beadle's Avatar
London England
Joined Oct 2009
147 Posts
Cheap spoilers

Hi Gary and Alibongo

The spoilers are a nice easy fit (even retrofit) on the VV - here's the recipe...

Cut two pieces of TE stock about 10-12" long, 1/1/4" width is best, to make the blades of the airbrakes from. Cover them with Solarfilm.
Make up two open topped boxes out of 1/16th balsa sheet to fit the blades
Cut bevels in the LE's of the blades so they fit at the LE top then hinge them with tape to the top front of the box. This hinge tape should extend over the front edge of the box. Fix the boxes in cutouts in the wings
Fix a cut down control horn with its front edge flush i.e. right on the blade LE front and at right-angles to it
Make up a a wire assembly from a bicycle spoke to fit in the fuselage. This spoke is carried through two plastic horns, front and rear, so the spoke can slide forward and back like a bolt on a garden gate
Cut off two of the screw connectors from an electrical terminal block and remove them from the nylon carrier block. Slide them both onto the bicycle spoke and tighten their screws to retain them on the spoke, screw heads up
Using PTFE plastic tubing of about 1/8" ID make up and fit the tubing in the wings to carry the operating thread (nylon braided is best)
Tie one end of the thread to the horn on the brake blade, pass it through the plastic tubing and out of the root rib
Put the wings on the wing joiner, cut holes through the fuselage sides the thread through, run the thread through, make loops at the servo end to drop over the brass screws on the cycle spoke.
Adjust the brass screws backwards and/or forwards on the spoke so that the operating thread sits slackly over the brass screws when at rest
Drill a hole in the servo output arm large enough to push the spoke through while allowing the 90 degree bend of the soldered end to move freely in a horizontal plane under the servo arm
Set up the brake servo to move the spoke forward, to raise the brake blades and back to shut them
Fix a small fridge magnet under the brake blade and a scalpel blade to the inner bottom of the blade box in the wing and your brakes will be held shut even when flying inverted - which the VV will do!

Sorry for all the words that a couple of pics would replace but I've lost the pics off the PC somewhere - DOH!

Pete
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Old Dec 20, 2010, 05:24 AM
Late for work again!
Gary Binnie's Avatar
Northampton, England
Joined May 2004
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Cheers Pete.

I ventured out to the shed, has warmed up to -9C now!

Do you have a tip for taking wrinkles out of Solarfilm on a foam wing?!!

I've ironed it a couple of times but they keep coming back, don't want to use too much heat as it might damage the foam.

Bet it's chilly up the Beacon!!

Gary
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Old Dec 20, 2010, 01:50 PM
EUROPHIA PETE
Pete Beadle's Avatar
London England
Joined Oct 2009
147 Posts
Solarfilm repairs

Hi Gary

Wrinkles or bubbles?

To remove wrinkles warm them, NOT on high heat, with a heat gun to lessen the grip of the adhesive and then ease it up and off - try and remove ALL the covering, or as much as you can, in one go - then re-iron it on

For bubbles heat the bubble, prick it with a pin in the centre, iron towards the pinhole from the edges so the trapped air vents from the pin hole(s)

Far too cold for me on the Beacon, I'm waiting 'til after Christmas

BTW Did you see there's a Vortex up for sale for 50 on BMFA classifieds at present?

Just a thought

Regards - and Merry Christmas for the weekend

Pete
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Old Dec 20, 2010, 02:04 PM
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Ah, might be the Vortex that is on eBay, too far away and I have far too many models already!!

Wrinkles more than bubbles. I heat it, rub it down and they come back again. If it is Solarfilm then I think if it was overheated on application then I am on to a loser!

It's a Multiplex ASW 22, quite nice apart from a few frustrating faults, one of the airbrakes has bust a plastic link pin and I have tried in vain to fix it. The airbrake will have to come out and I get the feeling that I will be recovering both wings. Quite worried that removing the airbrake will cause some grief as I don't know how well it is glued in. Just seen some natty electric airbrakes, quite tempting.

Would take some piccies but it is a bit big to rig indoors, should do a thread on it I suppose but it's just messing about and repairs.

GB
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Old Jan 06, 2011, 08:25 AM
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Onwards and upwards!

It's been a while, what with Christmas and all that, but I am braving the shed today, still pretty chilly though!

I had been held up a little bit for needing a 3.4 mm or 9/64 in drill bit to open out a hole in the stab bellcrank. I think it says to do this on the plan somewhere. I spied an imperial drill bit set on the Screwfix website and splashed out a whole 3.30 on them. Fine for balsa and plastic but steel plate might be a different story! 'Cheap as chips' as the man on the telly says!

I needed the bellcrank to mark the holes for the brass tubes in the stab ribs as I thought it would be less painful and much more accurate to drill the holes before assembly rather than afterwards as the plan notes suggest. Pictures explain it better.

I need to get a move on with this as I've got something a bit more exotic in the queue for the building board.

GB
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Old Jan 06, 2011, 09:34 AM
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Hi Gary, I'm almost done with my stab for a Skyhawk fuse that Brain Agnew sold me recently. And I just orderd a Houston Hawk short wing kit that I might use on it or to replace the wing on my Larry Jolly Meteor
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Old Jan 06, 2011, 09:37 AM
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It might be chilly but we're still building!! Have just come in for a warm up.
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Old Jan 06, 2011, 03:08 PM
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Enough for today I think, made a good start with the stabs, plenty of sanding needed to turn them into things of beauty! They feel quite solid, I can't see that they will warp during covering.

I had a wheeze to drill the stab pivot holes in the fuselage before joining the halves, that way I can line the tail up with the wings precisely. Using the dimpled marks in the fuselage it looks like the stab pivot is not quite square to the rudder post, a little tickle with a file should fix that.

Took some piccies of the workshop, some bigger models seem to have moved in, doh!

GB
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Old Jan 06, 2011, 05:49 PM
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To get the stab pivot square might very well be the hardest thing to do on a FF stab. I'm sure your get it.
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Old Jan 06, 2011, 06:35 PM
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I expected it before I drilled the holes!! A short stab pivot tube magnifies small errors, only needs a tickle with a file.

I do like the picture frames to be square in my house!!

Might do some more tomorrow.
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Old Jan 07, 2011, 04:07 AM
EUROPHIA PETE
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London England
Joined Oct 2009
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Level bellcrank pivot wires

Hi Gary

Here's my "bodge" to get pivot wires level....

Ovalise the drilled hole in the fuselage moulding on one side so you have availability of up and down movement of the pivot wire.
Put a flat, round, thin, chrome plated washer over the pivot wire and down to lay flat on the fuselage moulding.
Lay the fuselage completely flat with the fin horizontal
Place a T-square close to or against the now vertical pivot wire, raise the washer slightly and put a small amount of epoxy on the fuselage side under it
Replace the washer, pressing it into the epoxy
When the epoxy hardens off you should have a bearing surface (the washer) keeping the pivot wire square and still moving freely
If you want belt and braces - cut a short length (4-5mm) of brass tube a close fit to the joiner wire, slide the washer over the brass tube, square up as before then solder the brass tube in place on the washer - bingo!

Regards

Pete
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Old Jan 07, 2011, 10:02 AM
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I use carpenter's level's alot and I like to have the wing's on the fuse when I'm doing the stab. I also like to have at least 1/16th ply already glued to the inside of the fin. I just drill throught both side's put the tube in and see if I got it right the first time, if not I do what Pete said. Now with a tube or rod of proper size in the wing rod hole's and another in the stab hole's I lay them both on the level's that are on either side of the fuse. I'm this anal because I've seen from the ground tail's outa whack.
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Old Jan 07, 2011, 11:31 AM
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Thanks guys, it's really only a little bit out, I need to establish a fin post centreline before I tweak anything. It's slightly out looking down from the top now I have finished the construction of the stabs and hung them on loosely but again only a tiny bit.

Something I have got to sort out is that the rudder seems slightly too big, even allowing for gaps. The rudder cutouts in the stab don't look big enough and they don't taper from the hinge line.

Have got one stab sanded to section, can't weigh it as the batteries have died in my scales!

Need to start thinking about building the wings next, I know that I've got to replace the shaped leading edge stock but it's a weird size!!

Cheers

Gary
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