Espritmodel.com Telemetry Radio
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Old Dec 21, 2010, 02:01 PM
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Waiting for parts as well so I drew up a quick PCB layout for anyone that wants to etch a TX interface that Thanh developed. The BMP image just needs to be flipped before ironing it to the copper board. I have also uploaded a parts layout. I think I interpreted the schematic correctly, but I have a headache, so could be off.

Mike
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Old Dec 21, 2010, 04:19 PM
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@Mike

Thanks for the congrats and for watching the video . It was fun to see the tiny quad flying.

Sorry for the delay of the DX6. I hope it arrived this week so you have sometimes playing with the DX6 & TX code.

I thought I had a different schematic for the transmitting adapter. It looked like I uploaded an older version instead. Anyway, the newer version doesn't have R1 (22K - removed) and R2 (10K - by pass) so you can get rid of the R1, and short R2. Hopefully you have the parts. The adapter should work either way.

I guess I need to figure out how to draw a straight line in Paint. I hold the mouse to move and draw a line, and that's not pretty .


@Roy,
Thanks for watching the vid.

If you don't have the TX radio & the RF module interface, you can't verify the transmission between the TX & RX because the EZ2500RF-TX only transmits when it's plugged to the radio PPM port. Without this PPM signal, the EZ2500RF TX will just sleep and send nothing to the receiver (which is part of the controller).

The TX code is this one: http://code.google.com/p/simple-flig...ransmit_module

If you don't have the TX, you can still verify the RX & the flight controller operation, however. You need to load this code to the flight controller board: http://code.google.com/p/simple-flig...ght-controller

You need a terminal console (Teraterm, HyperTerminal, etc. of your choice) connected to the serial port presented by the MSP430 programming dongle.

Once you load the RX code and run it, you will see a command line interface on the terminal. From there, you can type this command: "get_pulse" and you will see a lot of parameters that are essential for flying (like the current signal received from the transmitter, the gyro values, the static gyro values, the power sent to the motors, the max min power sent to motors while flying/testing, gyro gain, etc.).

So with one EZ2500RF board hooked to the programmer, you can read the above info (though the gyros values will be zero due to no actual gyro connected, and some values are just default values due to no TX). With 2 EZ2500RF boards, one hooked to the TX radio, and one hooked to the programmer you will see the radio channel infos, along with motors power etc.

Hope that explains it. If you have any question on how to use CCS to load the run the software, just let me know.

Thanks

-Thanh
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Old Dec 21, 2010, 08:22 PM
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Thanh,

Thanks a lot. I will use a DX7 for the TX part. The brushless motor is still in backorder status. Just don't know how long I need to wait for them.
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Old Dec 21, 2010, 08:49 PM
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Hi Roy
yeah those small brushless motors have been out for quite sometimes. I'm wondering if I actually order those motors would make it any faster.

Anyway if you want to make a flying quad you can get the 10g motors. The quad will be a little bigger but should be still able to fly indoor with the same ESC & battery you have bought:

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...idProduct=5358

the props may be a bit small but I think it will fly.

Or you can go big like one of my videos I posted earlier.

Thanh
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Old Dec 22, 2010, 08:00 AM
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Thanh,

Two more questions:

(1) What's the motor model in the quad flew in your videos outdoor? If so, do I need to change the blade/ESC ,battery too?

(2) Is there any article talking about how to choose the right motor depending on the weight of quadrotor? I want to load a HD video camera on the quadrotor in the future.

Thanks.

Roy
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Old Dec 22, 2010, 08:03 AM
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Hi Thanh,

Thanks for checking the images. I am uploading new ones based on your comments about removing R1 and R2 and will be etching tonight. Hopefully the size uploaded correctly - it should be 2 cm X 1 cm. Should have my DX6 today or tomorrow!! As for Paint - I just use the line tool and hold the shift key to lock in a straight line.

Mike

(Images incorrect - removed)
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Old Dec 22, 2010, 08:34 AM
That tree again!!!!
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Hi Mike
I think the tracks you draw for the TX adapter board is having a little problem. It should not be connected between the PPM line and P2 line. The track should have been disconeected between .1 iF and the 220k resistor.

Hi Roy

the motors for the big out door quad In my video is KDA20-22L motors from Hobby King
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...idProduct=4700

in this case the propellers are GWS 9050 triblade CCW and CW set (need a lot of tape for balancing the props):
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...idProduct=5248

or APC 10x4.7 slow flyer prop and slow flyer pusher props (better balancing). I bought mine from radicalrc.com

battery should now be a 3 cell 2200mAh or bigger.

There are some software to calculate the thrust of motors and propeller combo. There are also test results from people showing how much thrust you can get with a set of motor and props size along with how many amps the motor pulls. So says if you have the thrust numbers and you have 4 motors And you have an estimate of how heavy your set up would be thus you can figure if the motor & prop choice would be powerful enough to fly.

There should be a more scientific way of doing this but I don't know of any link or article talking about it.

Oh and you need 10A or higher ESC for that size of motors and props.

For bigger quad you must use the Spektrum receiver or any of the shelve receiver instead of the built in reciever of the ez2500 RF kit as the communication is full range and is alot more proven. The code I use for the built in receiver doesn't check for channel collision or communication quality.

Thanks

thanh
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Old Dec 22, 2010, 09:10 AM
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Hey thanhTran. I ordered the parts yesterday to make something like your copter. For the frame I am going to use "1cm fat" square carbon fiber tubes and see how it works. It is gonna be kinda heavier than yours i suppose cause i'll use the HK 10gram motors and load it with fpv gear and some other sensors(sonic proximity sensor, leds for the camera at night, accelerometer for auto balance +++). I will use arduino though, mostly because i wanna write the code myself and do lots of experimenting. Also I'll probably put a bigger battery cause i dont care about how well it can fly, as long as it hovers nice and stable so i can move arround, indoors, from the camera. What I wanted to ask you is, from a scale 1-100, whats the position your throttle stick has to be for your copter to hover? I wonder how much weight it can carry.
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Old Dec 22, 2010, 09:27 AM
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Thanh,

I see that now - guess I was going to fast -sorry about that. Here is what it should be....I hope

Thanks,
Mike
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Old Dec 22, 2010, 10:29 AM
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Here is my interpretation of the FET motor driver connections and related PCB. Certainly can be done smaller or other ways, but just wanted to offer my version - hopefully I got it right on the first try.

Mike
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Old Dec 22, 2010, 12:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thanhTran View Post
Very nice work, I think you may be on to something here Than. Looks to me to be the next big craze. Amazing how well it flies when you consider that you are going against the normal thinking in R\C. Usually smaller flies worse. Certainly not the case here and it works for larger ones as well. Very nice work.

Rob...
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Old Dec 22, 2010, 04:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by soti View Post
...(sonic proximity sensor, leds for the camera at night, accelerometer for auto balance +++).
Sounds great! Please keep us updated with the process. I have a Maxbotix ultrasonic range finder sensor that I plan to use with my design. Hopefully it can keep the altitude. This sensor is so easy to use that it just needs to use the same code that reads the servo pulses from the receiver.

At this time I don't have an accelerometer yet, but plan to use it with a complementary filter to see how better the whole thing flies. My dream of a machine would be something with a camera to hold position and can distinguish some key features on the ground and following it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by soti View Post
...
I will use arduino though, mostly because i wanna write the code myself and do lots of experimenting.
Don't know much about Arduino. But I wanted to write code myself too . I didn't like Arduino because the code is not really portable. I use standard C, and I structure my code so that it can port to pretty much any chip with just some changes in the hardware abstraction layer. There are arm chip, or DSP chips available and I don't want to get stuck with just Arduino/Atmel.

Quote:
Originally Posted by soti View Post
...
Also I'll probably put a bigger battery cause i dont care about how well it can fly, as long as it hovers nice and stable so i can move arround, indoors, from the camera. What I wanted to ask you is, from a scale 1-100, whats the position your throttle stick has to be for your copter to hover? I wonder how much weight it can carry.
With the 5g motors and with 107g flying weight (including a 2S 460mAh battery), the set up hovers at around 40% throttle. It has a lot of flying power, but the flying time is only around 9-10 minutes though.

-Thanh
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Old Dec 22, 2010, 04:19 PM
That tree again!!!!
thanhTran's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nanobot9000 View Post
Here is my interpretation of the FET motor driver connections and related PCB. Certainly can be done smaller or other ways, but just wanted to offer my version - hopefully I got it right on the first try.

Mike
Thanks for the nice drawing Mike! The TX board looks great.

The motor driver FET board has the positive tracks for the right & left motors being too thin I'm afraid. The motors require power and thus the track should be a lot thicker. I would and I do solder all motors' positive wires to the center of the board right at where the battery wire connects to.

Thanks

-Thanh
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Old Dec 22, 2010, 04:25 PM
That tree again!!!!
thanhTran's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mxspode View Post
Very nice work, I think you may be on to something here Than. Looks to me to be the next big craze. Amazing how well it flies when you consider that you are going against the normal thinking in R\C. Usually smaller flies worse. Certainly not the case here and it works for larger ones as well. Very nice work.

Rob...
Thanks for the kind words Rob! . I really like this size. It makes flying in family room truly possible. It still needs some tuning for better hover, but for aggressive flying, it flies pretty well. Thanks.

-Thanh
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Old Dec 22, 2010, 07:13 PM
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Hi Thanh,

Thanks for the comments on the motor board - I see what you mean about the traces being too small - I will have to adjust it.

I got my DX6 and had a chance to do some soldering so I decided to load the code and realized I was not sure how to extract it from your google code site. I have the link from a previous post that lists all the project items, but was not sure of the best method to load it locally. Do I view the raw info and then save it all to a folder and open the project? Sorry if that is a dumb question, but I have not used the google code site.

Thanks,
Mike
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